Another day....another disappointment.
First, lets talk about what went right.
Had to secure one section of the fuel line back by the fuel filter. Piece of cake.
Now it is time to put some gas in her and check the fuel system for leaks. I put 2 gallons of gas in it, hooked the battery up and used a jumper wire across the fuel pump relay base to start the pump. Click, whine, gurgle and whoosh.....I have fuel movement! Checked under car and so far, so good. No leaks or fuel smell. Time to check in the engine bay and see whats going on up there. Sweet! No leaks yet so now is the time to set the fuel pressure. Looked at the gauge and I'm currently at 10 psi. Start adjusting the regulator up to 43 psi slowly and checking for leaks along the way. So far, so good, nothing leaks and the fuel pressure is set where FAST recommends it to be.
Now that the fuel system checks out, gas gauge reads good also, it is time to get the mufflers under it and also get power to the CPU. Since I wasn't sure about the whole key on/cranking power for the trigger wire, I did what I felt would work. I tied a "toggle" switch into the trigger wire so I could get power. I will go back and revisit this area at a later date, referencing the link in the post above, but for now I kind of like this toggle setup as it will also work as a secondary anti theft device. Can't start the car if the CPU doesn't have power.
FAST makes the initial setup of the system fairly easy, get power to the CPU, plug in the handheld to both the CPU and a power source (cigar lighter) and answer a few questions about your engine, setup and calibrate the throttle sensor at both no/full throttle and the quick setup is done. Once you get past that, it will ask for you to start the car and let it do its thing while the CPU makes some adjustments.
Now for the disappointment in an awesomely epic way.
Once the CPU says start car, I intended on starting the car. Hit the key and crank, crank, crank, crank but no cough, sputter, bang or vroom.
In fact, I never heard the injectors pulse or fuel pump kick on.
Time to do some research.
One thing I learned really quick is FAST's troubleshooting guide is almost useless and their tech support is pretty much in forum form. Not that it is a bad thing sometimes, but it takes a while to get pertinent information.
Digging around the information, I found tidbits that I can check.
The first thing is the pulsing of the injectors that is supposed to happen at key on. I did not get that upon first attempt but why? Seems that function does not happen until the CPU sees a first start and run to complete the setup. So in other words, I will not see that function until the car starts and runs for the first time.
Next up is the fuel pump not priming or running. Well it seems that like the injector pulse, the fuel pump prime function also will not happen until after the first run cycle, but it should still run while cranking. It's not and why? Again with hit and miss information, it appears that the fuel pump and also injectors are controlled by an RPM signal to the CPU so it only runs while the engine is running. OK.....that makes perfect sense to me.
Now I have a direction to go. Lets try this again. The handheld displays live data, so I select the screen that shows RPM info and try to start the car again. Looking at both the handheld and the factory tach during cranking, there is no RPM signal. WTH!
Everything electrical I have done to this car has checked out and the one thing I hoped would be trouble free (ignition) has failed on me. The biggest question is what is failed. My ignition system knowledge is a bit weak but I'm going to test what I do know and what I can do by myself with no help, which isn't much on both accounts.
Checked the power going to the coil. I have 6.2 v on the positive side during key on and 12.6 v during crank. That appears good as it is switching between full and reduced run power.
I know that the pickup coil sends the signal to the module and that is what controls the cycle for the - side of the coil to fire. Digging through the EVTM, it mentions the the resistance between the orange and purple leads should be 400 - 1000 ohms. Checked resistance and it showed on the meter to be 3.45 That's odd. I happen to still have the old pickup coil, with the brittle wiring, laying around so I knew it worked and would OHM it. Low and behold, it is reading 652.
I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed, but I'm guessing that the new pickup coil from Rock Auto is no good with that low reading. I wouldn't think that I did something to cause it, but I never know.
Looks like I will swing by the McParts store after work and they are supposed to have a BWD coil in stock. I will take the meter with me and test its resistance before I purchase it. If it is over 400, then I should be good to go and hopefully get the car fired tonight, unless something else is severely wrong.