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  1. #901

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    They should auto reset... should. Mine did not, and it had a wierd feel till I stuck my head up under there and helped it along.
    I will check it out when I get the tranny put back in.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  2. #902

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    If you shove the clutch in then pop it the jarring when the clutch pedal comes up will put theclutch pedal to almost no tension

    if you need the clutch to release further up usually unless the quadrant is pretty freshly lubed you have to reach up in there and roll the quadrant towards the driver to hand tension the cable.

    after replacing 4 of these spring loaded monsters over the years I finally replaced it with a UPR adjustable kit. The cable sucked and snapped. Now I run a Maximum Motorsports cable — 500x better.

    so if the quadrant gives you fits, the Maximum Motorsports kit is what I’d recommend.

  3. #903

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    It's always amazing how good a car can look when a professional takes its picture.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  4. #904
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    HILLBILLY HOLLYWOOD, Tennesse
    Posts
    1,869

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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    It's always amazing how good a car can look when a professional takes its picture.

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    Even when it's TAN!
    Mike
    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

    1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually

    I like "Cut & Coach Built" vehicles!

    www.musclecardeals.com


  5. #905

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    Quote Originally Posted by vintageracer View Post
    Even when it's TAN!

    I will take that as a high praise compliment.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  6. #906

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    Well....another season is in the books!

    I didn't get near enough time to do what I wanted with it or even drive it much this year due to work obligations, but there is always next year in which I have started working towards.

    Put it up on the ramps and started getting her ready to drop the drivetrain out of it. Motor and tranny are ready to pull today once I pull the fuel lines.

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    The list of things to get done this winter, at a bare minimum, include:
    Getting the roller motor built and installed
    Change the gear set in the WC T5 to get rid of the 4 cyl gearing
    Subframe connectors
    Rebuild the rear axle
    3g alternator upgrade
    Install the rebuilt steering rack

    Also looking at doing the headlight relay upgrade.

    It should be a fun and adventurous winter!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  7. #907

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    That’s an ambitious winter, I hope it goes well Brock.

  8. #908

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    That’s an ambitious winter, I hope it goes well Brock.
    I think this might be one of my least ambitious plans. Usually I have a huge list of hopes and dreams but only get a small portion done. I think for once, this one should be fairly achievable with minimal stress. We shall see!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  9. #909

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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    10-19-2017, 07:12 AM
    Well.....I pulled the trigger on the "new" motor. Went and looked at it yesterday and the guy was upfront and seemed to be a stand up guy. From what I could see, it appears to be fully rebuilt. He said the crank has been turned, new rings, new cam, head work done, new oil pump, water pump, timing chain, seals/gaskets, and oil pan. Everything he said appeared, visually, to be true.

    After talking with him about Mustangs and cars for awhile, he asked me to throw him an offer. He had it listed at $700 so I simply asked him what his lowest # would be. He told me that since I seemed like a good guy and he saw the car it was going in, he would take $400 out the door with an Explorer upper and lower intake and engine stand.

    How could I resist? Probably wouldn't hurt to open it up and verify things are kosher in it and make sure it is clean. Either way, I feel like this could be an awesome score.
    Hard to believe that this was over a year ago and as the discussion rolled through Post # 745 to #790, with pictures of the findings of some of the quality work done, it's time to revive this with updates.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  10. #910

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    Decided I need to get back to work on the roller and finish disassembling the E7 heads and check some tolerances and so forth. As seen in the previous motor posts, someone had done a "home" port job on them but since they were still assembled, it was kind of hard to tell how far the porting went.

    Dropped the valves out of them and the first thing that I noticed, was the sheer cleanliness of the ports and valves.
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    Both the intake and exhaust valves looked like this with metal shavings just waiting to be inhaled into the cylinders.

    While the valves and springs are new, they reused the old valve keepers and they showed wear. Not sure if that is good or bad, but new keepers are cheap.

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    After the valves were dropped, it appears that the seats haven't been touched on these heads, besides maybe an inadequate fast valve lapping. Also, it paints a bigger picture of the port work that was done on these. After bouncing it around a few areas, it seems the general consensus is that these were poorly done and could actually have been taken to far which could spell disastrous failure quickly down the road.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  11. #911

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    So after that, I'm thinking the E7's are headed to the scrap bin and I will have to pursue other options there.

    With that being said, I turned my focus to the crank. As seen in a previous post, there was heavy scarring on the #3 con rod bearing that I believe was caused by the nick in the crank journal. I stopped by the machine shop after work yesterday to get a feel on their work and pricing. Talking with the machinist, he told me to check run out, inspect it and get everything back perfect, if the crank checked good, would be $75. Didn't seem like a bad price so I told him I would bring it by today and get it taken care of. I got to the house and decided I would clean it up, as it has been sitting on the bench and covered in rust preventative goo, that way the machine shop would have a clean crank to start with.

    Keeping in mind that I never really looked at the crank when I took it out, now was the time to really look it over that way I could point out anything I noticed to the machinist. As I was cleaning off the goo, I ran into this.......
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    Yup.....should have known that the crank was going to be junk also. I forgot which journal that translated to, but talking to a couple guys it was likely caused by the caps on the con rods being installed incorrectly like they were.

    I guess I need to get the block of to the machine shop and have it checked ASAP, because if it can't pass inspection or is jacked up beyond repair also, there is no point in developing a plan any further with this setup.

    Searching back through the thread I found this quote:

    Quote Originally Posted by sowaxeman View Post
    Me personally, I would be more inclined to re-build and upgrade the motor you have...after all it did not give you the finger during 2,500+ miles round trip
    At this point in time, Jason may have been onto something and I may be forced to go that direction. The original motor has given me no issues (no oil burning, no oil consumption, no coolant where it's not supposed to be, no knocks or other detrimental noises, etc.) to date besides it's just tired.
    I'm really beginning to get curious what the insides of my original 350k motor looks like now.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  12. #912
    FEP Supporter NAVYCAT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Montebello, CA
    Posts
    2,792

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    is that the proper tool holder? lol
    2017 Mustang ECO BOOST (DD)
    1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other

  13. #913

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    Quote Originally Posted by NAVYCAT View Post
    is that the proper tool holder? lol
    No......but it works good.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  14. #914
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Grand Rapids, Mi
    Posts
    609

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    Looking at the crank, he knew damn well something was wrong with the engine. Zero chance that thing ran long like that. What an A word.

  15. #915

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    If you decide to build the 84, I'd convert it to roller cam. Also, make sure you get your compression up where a powerplant in a Mustang should run. Somewhere around 10:1 or higher unless you have plans to add Turbos or a Supercharger. Decent compression alone will add a lot of power.

    I tend to think I'd add a little displacement via stroker kit regardless of which block gets used.


    I sure hope this build starts going in the right direction. The trouble with engines alone for both of us is a discussion that couldn't get finished over MANY beers my friend.

    If my 1/2 million mile 86GT and your 350K mile 84GT are on the "GREAT" end of the spectrum in terms of luck and fortune, both of our experiences with locating and buying used 87-93 HO engines is on the dead opposite end of the spectrum.

    So be it, I guess. At least we checked them out rather than just installing them.

  16. #916

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    Out of curiosity last night, I set the crank in block to verify where the crack was. I found it lurking in the #4 main cap journal. Not sure what caused it, but I guess it doesn’t really matter much.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  17. #917
    FEP Supporter STANGMAN116's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    DENVER CO, the 303
    Posts
    2,777

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    Bummer Brock, i hope block is ok. If u need anything let me know!

  18. #918

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    My guess is crank thrust combined with someone not knowing how to install rotating assembly parts.

  19. #919

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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    I think this might be one of my least ambitious plans. Usually I have a huge list of hopes and dreams but only get a small portion done. I think for once, this one should be fairly achievable with minimal stress. We shall see!
    I really need to keep my mouth shut!!!!!!!!
    I should have known better.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  20. #920

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    If you decide to build the 84, I'd convert it to roller cam. Also, make sure you get your compression up where a powerplant in a Mustang should run. Somewhere around 10:1 or higher unless you have plans to add Turbos or a Supercharger. Decent compression alone will add a lot of power.

    I tend to think I'd add a little displacement via stroker kit regardless of which block gets used.


    I sure hope this build starts going in the right direction. The trouble with engines alone for both of us is a discussion that couldn't get finished over MANY beers my friend.

    If my 1/2 million mile 86GT and your 350K mile 84GT are on the "GREAT" end of the spectrum in terms of luck and fortune, both of our experiences with locating and buying used 87-93 HO engines is on the dead opposite end of the spectrum.

    So be it, I guess. At least we checked them out rather than just installing them.
    Ain't this the complete truth bud. I'm to the point that I'm almost gun shy to look at another "ready to run" roller motor. I have had some good offers sent my way but I'm almost to the point of just starting fresh and doing it my way. At least I know what has been done and if it blows up, I have no one to blame but my own self.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  21. #921

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    With the roller motor on the fence at this time, I figured I might as well pull the original motor out of the car, get it on the stand and see what is up with it. I figured it can't hurt anything and I'm curious to see what is inside of it.

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    Hey look!!!!!! I'm back at stock ride height in the front again!!!

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    Last edited by 84StangSVT; Yesterday at 10:24 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  22. #922

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    Started tearing it apart and finally found the extent of how far this motor has been into. I knew it had been opened up at some point due to all of the orange RTV on it, just wasn't sure to what extent.

    What I found is that this motor has been bored .030 over, the cylinders honed, new lifters, the heads have been rebuilt, the crank has been turned 10/10, new rear main seal and new freeze plugs and other caps/plugs. The difference that I see between this one and the roller motor that I had picked up is that it appears this one was actually done "professionally" looking at the quality of the work done.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  23. #923

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    Now with that being said, I wonder how much runtime this motor had on it and how long it had sat also after the rebuild.

    The top of the pistons, as well as the valves/heads, are pretty crusty with what I can only assume is carbon. But after cleaning everything up, the cylinders look spotless and little to no scuffs in them. I snapped the cylinders and they all came out around 4.029 to 4.031 with really no out of round or taper to them. I performed a penetrant dye test on the cylinder walls and head mating surfaces and found no cracks or other issues that stand out.

    I'm almost certain that I can use this block as it is and move forward with a build and save the machine shop charge.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; Yesterday at 12:15 PM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

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