If you shove the clutch in then pop it the jarring when the clutch pedal comes up will put theclutch pedal to almost no tension
if you need the clutch to release further up usually unless the quadrant is pretty freshly lubed you have to reach up in there and roll the quadrant towards the driver to hand tension the cable.
after replacing 4 of these spring loaded monsters over the years I finally replaced it with a UPR adjustable kit. The cable sucked and snapped. Now I run a Maximum Motorsports cable — 500x better.
so if the quadrant gives you fits, the Maximum Motorsports kit is what I’d recommend.
It's always amazing how good a car can look when a professional takes its picture.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
Mike
Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"
1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually
I like "Cut & Coach Built" vehicles!
www.musclecardeals.com
Well....another season is in the books!
I didn't get near enough time to do what I wanted with it or even drive it much this year due to work obligations, but there is always next year in which I have started working towards.
Put it up on the ramps and started getting her ready to drop the drivetrain out of it. Motor and tranny are ready to pull today once I pull the fuel lines.
The list of things to get done this winter, at a bare minimum, include:
Getting the roller motor built and installed
Change the gear set in the WC T5 to get rid of the 4 cyl gearing
Subframe connectors
Rebuild the rear axle
3g alternator upgrade
Install the rebuilt steering rack
Also looking at doing the headlight relay upgrade.
It should be a fun and adventurous winter!
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
That’s an ambitious winter, I hope it goes well Brock.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
Decided I need to get back to work on the roller and finish disassembling the E7 heads and check some tolerances and so forth. As seen in the previous motor posts, someone had done a "home" port job on them but since they were still assembled, it was kind of hard to tell how far the porting went.
Dropped the valves out of them and the first thing that I noticed, was the sheer cleanliness of the ports and valves.
Both the intake and exhaust valves looked like this with metal shavings just waiting to be inhaled into the cylinders.
While the valves and springs are new, they reused the old valve keepers and they showed wear. Not sure if that is good or bad, but new keepers are cheap.
After the valves were dropped, it appears that the seats haven't been touched on these heads, besides maybe an inadequate fast valve lapping. Also, it paints a bigger picture of the port work that was done on these. After bouncing it around a few areas, it seems the general consensus is that these were poorly done and could actually have been taken to far which could spell disastrous failure quickly down the road.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
So after that, I'm thinking the E7's are headed to the scrap bin and I will have to pursue other options there.
With that being said, I turned my focus to the crank. As seen in a previous post, there was heavy scarring on the #3 con rod bearing that I believe was caused by the nick in the crank journal. I stopped by the machine shop after work yesterday to get a feel on their work and pricing. Talking with the machinist, he told me to check run out, inspect it and get everything back perfect, if the crank checked good, would be $75. Didn't seem like a bad price so I told him I would bring it by today and get it taken care of. I got to the house and decided I would clean it up, as it has been sitting on the bench and covered in rust preventative goo, that way the machine shop would have a clean crank to start with.
Keeping in mind that I never really looked at the crank when I took it out, now was the time to really look it over that way I could point out anything I noticed to the machinist. As I was cleaning off the goo, I ran into this.......
Yup.....should have known that the crank was going to be junk also. I forgot which journal that translated to, but talking to a couple guys it was likely caused by the caps on the con rods being installed incorrectly like they were.
I guess I need to get the block of to the machine shop and have it checked ASAP, because if it can't pass inspection or is jacked up beyond repair also, there is no point in developing a plan any further with this setup.
Searching back through the thread I found this quote:
At this point in time, Jason may have been onto something and I may be forced to go that direction. The original motor has given me no issues (no oil burning, no oil consumption, no coolant where it's not supposed to be, no knocks or other detrimental noises, etc.) to date besides it's just tired.
I'm really beginning to get curious what the insides of my original 350k motor looks like now.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
is that the proper tool holder? lol
2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
Past 4 eyes-
4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
U.S. NAVY 1980-2009
Looking at the crank, he knew damn well something was wrong with the engine. Zero chance that thing ran long like that. What an A word.
If you decide to build the 84, I'd convert it to roller cam. Also, make sure you get your compression up where a powerplant in a Mustang should run. Somewhere around 10:1 or higher unless you have plans to add Turbos or a Supercharger. Decent compression alone will add a lot of power.
I tend to think I'd add a little displacement via stroker kit regardless of which block gets used.
I sure hope this build starts going in the right direction. The trouble with engines alone for both of us is a discussion that couldn't get finished over MANY beers my friend.
If my 1/2 million mile 86GT and your 350K mile 84GT are on the "GREAT" end of the spectrum in terms of luck and fortune, both of our experiences with locating and buying used 87-93 HO engines is on the dead opposite end of the spectrum.
So be it, I guess. At least we checked them out rather than just installing them.
Out of curiosity last night, I set the crank in block to verify where the crack was. I found it lurking in the #4 main cap journal. Not sure what caused it, but I guess it doesn’t really matter much.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
Bummer Brock, i hope block is ok. If u need anything let me know!
My guess is crank thrust combined with someone not knowing how to install rotating assembly parts.
Ain't this the complete truth bud. I'm to the point that I'm almost gun shy to look at another "ready to run" roller motor. I have had some good offers sent my way but I'm almost to the point of just starting fresh and doing it my way. At least I know what has been done and if it blows up, I have no one to blame but my own self.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
With the roller motor on the fence at this time, I figured I might as well pull the original motor out of the car, get it on the stand and see what is up with it. I figured it can't hurt anything and I'm curious to see what is inside of it.
Hey look!!!!!! I'm back at stock ride height in the front again!!!
Last edited by 84StangSVT; 11-14-2018 at 10:24 AM.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
Started tearing it apart and finally found the extent of how far this motor has been into. I knew it had been opened up at some point due to all of the orange RTV on it, just wasn't sure to what extent.
What I found is that this motor has been bored .030 over, the cylinders honed, new lifters, the heads have been rebuilt, the crank has been turned 10/10, new rear main seal and new freeze plugs and other caps/plugs. The difference that I see between this one and the roller motor that I had picked up is that it appears this one was actually done "professionally" looking at the quality of the work done.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
Now with that being said, I wonder how much runtime this motor had on it and how long it had sat also after the rebuild.
The top of the pistons, as well as the valves/heads, are pretty crusty with what I can only assume is carbon. But after cleaning everything up, the cylinders look spotless and little to no scuffs in them. I snapped the cylinders and they all came out around 4.029 to 4.031 with really no out of round or taper to them. I performed a penetrant dye test on the cylinder walls and head mating surfaces and found no cracks or other issues that stand out.
I'm almost certain that I can use this block as it is and move forward with a build and save the machine shop charge.
Last edited by 84StangSVT; 11-14-2018 at 12:15 PM.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
I just scrolled through your whole build. Awesome work.
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Toss in a retro roller cam and get some nice heads. Time toterrorize
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