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  1. #526

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    Quote Originally Posted by 83gt351w View Post
    Don't sweat it buddy. You're overthinking this. The 43 psi sounds high, but your kitchen faucet puts out more pressure. I'd come off the ds and run it like the factory did. Granted, the factory used a steel line from the carb to the pump, but you can get away with rubber and put your focus into making it look pretty.
    Quote Originally Posted by 83gt351w View Post
    I'll add, part of that fuel line connection to the engine has to be rubber anyway, due to engine vibration.
    Ok, that's what I was thinking. I have a habit of over analyzing things and I wondered if I was doing it again.

    I think I will get some of that heat blocking/abrasion wrap and wrap the fuel lines at least by the header and roll with that for now. I'm sure it will be redone down the road, but I have to get this thing running in short order.

    Thanks for the insight Dave.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  2. #527

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    Had to make a run out to Speedway Motors to get some AN fittings for the TB and also exchange the regulator the last guy sold me and pick up one that should suit my purposes a bit better. Installed the fuel lines and regulator in the best locations I could think of at this time, and while I'm still waiting on the line wrap to come in, I can continue forward. I prefer to wrap these lines just due to the close proximity of where they come out of the fender by the header. It should be fine as is, but I would rather take the extra precaution.

    Should have this part of the install finished up tonight or tomorrow.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  3. #528

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    Not much picture worthy stuff going on here but I'm moving forward.

    Got the new speed sensor and installed with the new speedo cable. Everything appears to work as intended so I should have a working speedometer and odometer this year.

    I bought a mid pipe hanger but after a test fit of the x-pipe, I'm not sure I will be able to use it. For some reason when I try to install the x, it fits decent on the drivers side header but is way off on the passenger side. Almost an inch difference. Not sure where the issue is yet, but it is bad. Push comes to shove, I will leave it off and just eat the cost of the hanger. Had to test fit the x so I knew where to poke the hole for the addition of the O2 sensor. Got that marked out and ready to drill.

    I will have to reroute the fuel lines in and out of the regulator as I didn't think it out really well. The biggest issue is the snorkel tube hits the hoses in its current configuration. Not a big issue as I have 4 ports to work with. I will need to pick up some different fittings.

    Got the RPM module signal wire run to the negative side of the ignition coil. Hope it works as intended.

    Moved the ground strap someone put on valve cover bolt to the back of the head where it should be a better ground.

    Currently working on rebuilding the engine/ignition harness. Should have that done this afternoon and ready to install when I get to the house.

    After that it will be put the dash back in, make a couple more tie ins for the EFI computer/O2 sensor and test the electrical systems.

    If everything works then I will put a couple gallons of gas in it and check the fuel system for leaks.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 03-17-2017 at 07:25 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  4. #529

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    Lots of progress Brock. I can't wait to see how it runs.

  5. #530
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Very cool progress. Bummer on the X pipe. Hope you get that figured out.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  6. #531

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    Quote Originally Posted by magnum517 View Post
    Very cool progress. Bummer on the X pipe. Hope you get that figured out.
    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Lots of progress Brock. I can't wait to see how it runs.
    Thanks guys. I hope to do a test fire, without fire preferably, this weekend if everything goes as planned.
    I have a feeling the majority of the x fitment issues are due to the fact it and the headers are BBK products. There is a small chance that the drivetrain is not sitting quite square in the car either. No matter what, as long as i can get the headers to seal to the x again, then I can live without the hanger if need be.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  7. #532

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    Didn't have a bunch of time to get some extras done this morning, but I got a couple things done.

    First off, made my fuel pump block off plate using some 1/8" stainless steel. Still need to drill the holes but I can do that at home.

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    Next was to repair the pickup coil to module wiring. I had to do this as the insulation was toast and the 3 prong connector is impossible to find. What I did was utilize adhesive lined shrink tube and cover the insulation. I then cleaned up the connector and used liquid tape to seal the end where the wire goes into the connector where the shrink tube left a bare spot. Not sure how well this repair will hold up but I'm confident it will work out and do what I need for at least a while.

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    Tonight I should have the rest of the harness completed and installed.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  8. #533

    Default fuel lines.

    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Not sure if I follow you completely on this. The main supply and return lines are factory steel lines, it's just once the main steel lines end inside the drivers side engine compartment I'm not sure what route to take. I can't imagine that everyone that does an aftermarket EFI conversion does anything but EFI rated hose past the factory hard line connection. I do not have a good resource to look at to see how Ford ran their EFI lines in both the CFI and SEFI cars either, as that may answer a lot of the questions I have.
    Yes sorry, I thought you were running rubber all the way. And yes I agree the last 12 in. or so can be soft to allow movement.

  9. #534

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    Ground strap should go on bolt that bolts the tranny to the engine block(factory), not the head, the head has gaskets, better ground on the block

  10. #535

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    Got the engine harness built and installed, also finished up the fuel system in the engine bay last night. Still have to modify the PCV system to be functional with this new setup. I will also be running all new vacuum lines in the engine bay. A little bit of tidying up should make this look pretty good.

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    The nice thing about the placement of the fuel regulator is that after the air cleaner and snorkel tubes are installed, it will barely be noticeable from normal view.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  11. #536
    FEP Power Member magnum517's Avatar
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    Brock, I also have BBK headers and off road H pipe ( know your using X pipe) and they fit lousy to be honest. Look nice but fit is less than desirable. I couldn't use the H pipe hanger because it was no where close to lining up.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    --86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
    --Bill

  12. #537
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Started the harness mapping last night. I chose to start with the small ignition portion of the harness to get a feel on how this is going to go.

    I laid out the harness in close to its orientation on the motor and got to work documenting colors, connectors and items the connectors are supposed to feed.

    Attachment 108979

    Now comes the interesting part that I'm not quite sure what to think yet and hopefully I get it figured out.

    Seems there are some discrepancies in Ford's own manuals. I have the prints for 1984 that I got from the sticky here in Electrical, the Ford EVTM for 1984 and also the diagrams out of the Haynes manual, which are about useless honestly, and they do not coincide very well with each other or what I'm looking at in front of me in the harness.

    Case point example:
    The Grey 8 pin plug that connects this harness to the main engine harness.

    The 1984 EVTM has this connector labeled as C135 (8 pin grey)
    This connector feeds the following connected parts on a 5.0 H.O. according to the EVTM
    1) WOT A/C cutout switch
    2) TAD Solenoid
    3) TAD relay/WOT cutout relay
    4) Clutch cycling pressure switch/A/C throttle boost solenoid
    5) Tach/ - coil
    6) + coil
    7) no item specified
    8 ) no item specified

    The 1984 schematics from this site has the connector listed as connector C200 (8 pin grey)
    This connector feeds the following connected parts on a 5.0 H.O. according to the schematic
    1) no item specified
    2) no item specified
    3) no item specified
    4) no item specified
    5) Water temp sensor
    6) Oil pressure sender
    7) no item specified
    8 ) no item specified

    Now as seen above there is already conflicting info, so let's dig a little deeper.......

    Here is what I have in front of me:
    1) WOT A/c cutout switch
    2) Coil +
    3) Coil - / Tach
    4) Empty
    5) Water temp sensor
    6) Oil pressure sender
    7) WOT A/C cutout switch/Carb throttle emission control solenoid
    8 ) Empty

    Soooooooo let's throw a few more wrenches in the pit.

    According to the EVTM, the oil pressure and water temperature are in a different connector (C147 3 pin)
    According to the schematics, everything but the temp/pressure senders are in a different connector (C207 6 pin grey)

    NOW.....connector pin layout and wiring colors match exactly what is labeled in the schematics as C200. The only difference is what is connected to this.

    I'm not 100% sure but I'm wondering if this might be part of a running change. I even looked at the 1983 and 1985 schematics on this site and they don't match what I have either, so I'm not sure what to think. I know I'm not the brightest on electrical schematics but I can read and follow them mostly.....when they are close to what I'm looking at. I could be reading these things wrong but I'm sure I'm not.

    This could be a long endeavor at this rate. I almost feel like I'm trying to drive across the country, on the path less beaten, using a TomTom GPS that hasn't been updated since 2010.
    Since I am just now getting around to working on my junk, I was wondering if you ever deciphered this mess. I have the 1985 wiring diagrams off this site and have thought forever the connector on the ds frame rail near the durapark module that has 8 pins and the oil pressure, temp gauge, low oil indiciator and others was either C200 or 208. In the wiring diagrams that's the ones that match the most. But in the 1985 EVTM it's labeled C135. Nonetheless I have most of the pins mapped out and a lot of them are no longer in use anyway.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  13. #538

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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    Since I am just now getting around to working on my junk, I was wondering if you ever deciphered this mess. I have the 1985 wiring diagrams off this site and have thought forever the connector on the ds frame rail near the durapark module that has 8 pins and the oil pressure, temp gauge, low oil indiciator and others was either C200 or 208. In the wiring diagrams that's the ones that match the most. But in the 1985 EVTM it's labeled C135. Nonetheless I have most of the pins mapped out and a lot of them are no longer in use anyway.
    I did to a point. IMHO, the EVTM was more descriptive and honestly more complete than the drawings from here. On the drawings, there were things not shown that the EVTM shows, such as the drawings did not show the true wiring of the Tach circuit.
    Some of the other stuff I just had to go through and start at point A and trace it to point B and use the color code to figure out what it went to. It was a nightmare on some stuff.

    Still haven't found a wire that's hot in start and run but off when the key is off to use as the EFI trigger.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 03-20-2017 at 07:17 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  14. #539

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    It was an eventful weekend, although I did not quite get to the stage I was hoping for. Either way, I'm thrilled with the outcome so far.

    1) Got the PCV system hooked up. I used 3/8" hose for now until I can find the time to bend some tubing for it and make it look stock.
    2) Ran new vacuum tubing to both the new fuel pressure regulator and the vacuum advance on the distributor. Hooked up to hopefully the proper connections on TB and manifold.
    3) Finished hooking up battery connections and starter solenoid. Installed battery tray and battery. I need a hold down for the newer tray I have so for now I just put the old tray in.
    4) Put the headlights in.
    5) Put the heater box back in
    6) Installed dash and wiring back in.
    7) Got the exhaust back on......hopefully it seals again.
    8 ) Installed the O2 sensor and wiring.
    9) Tested all electrical functions in regards to the wiring I have redone.

    For the O2 sensor, I wasn't really sure the best way to run this through the car. I decided it would be much easier to run this on the passenger side. Not sure if I covered this previously, but FAST recommends that the sensor be at least 20" from the cylinder heads to protect the sensor from excessive heat. Well, BBK installed their bungs right after the flange which put the sensor about 12" from the head. I decided to use the bung FAST sent and installed it 20-21" from the head. This moved it significantly down the x and changed my plan for the wiring. Once the x was installed, I popped a 1" hole in the P/S trans tunnel and hooked it up. I sealed the floor back up via a grommet, sealing tape and the roof stuff that I used on the floor. Should be water tight....

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    I ran the O2 wiring straight up and it is now hidden behind the dash where feet shouldn't mess with it. This interior picture doesn't show the final product.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  15. #540

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    When I tested the electrical systems, I honestly was not sure what to expect. With all of the bad wiring, replacement of the wiring and eliminating unused wiring out of the harnesses, it was anyone's guess what was going to happen. Me especially.

    With fire extinguisher in hand, I hooked up the battery.

    Sweet! Not even a spark! Checked amp draw and it was negligible.

    Time to start trying things.

    Exterior lighting:
    Low beams - check
    High beams - check
    Flash to pass - check
    Front markers - check
    Front turn signals - check
    Taillights - check
    Brake Lights - check
    Rear turn signals - check
    Rear markers - fail. Found bad bulbs and replaced. Now functional.

    Interior Lighting:
    Glovebox light - check
    Dome light - check! This has never worked since I had the car. Seems the door switches were the culprits.

    Interior Other:
    Power Windows - check
    Door Locks - check
    Fuel door button - check! - This was not hooked up when I got the car. Now functional after a few cycles.
    Hatch release button - check! - This was also not hooked up when I got the car. Surprised this system still works honestly.
    Cigar Lighter - Fail. Found bad fuse and replaced. Now functional
    Door Buzzer/Key remind - check! - Not functional when I got the car. See dome light comment.
    Horn - Fail. These were completely unhooked since I have had the car. Hooked up system and tested after replacing fuse. I have power up to relay base but the relay is missing. Will have to locate a horn relay and it should work again.
    Windshield wipers and washer system - check
    Gauges and lighting - check so far. Will have to put gas in tank to check function of gas gauge and new sending unit. Will have to have car running to check Tach and speedometer function.
    Radio power - check

    Ignition/starting systems:
    Ignition switch - check
    Starter solenoid - Fail. I could not get the solenoid to pull in during bump test. This ended up being I forgot to hook up the connector that goes to the transmission. Seems the solenoid trigger loops through that connector and does not work when unplugged. Hooked it up and it functions now.
    Starter - check

    Seems like I should be set to go once I find/make a trigger for the new EFI computer.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  16. #541

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    Got the fluid reservoir back in. Put on my homemade fuel pump block off plate. Got most everything I can tidy up done with the exception of the heater core hoses. When I was under the dash, I could see daylight where the core tubes passed through the firewall. That might explain some of the rust in the passenger side floor. The gasket is worse than I thought. For now, I sealed up that area with seam sealer so hopefully it will buy me some time till I can get a new gasket and install. Hopefully it will last till next winter.

    Minus the heater core hoses and the air cleaner, this engine is ready to see some fuel. Hopefully I will test that today.

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    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  17. #542

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    Lookin' good, Brock!

    One curiosity: this system requires a vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator? Sorry if I missed you mentioning the reason for that, but I understand that port injection efi requires the variability of low-speed versus WOT fuel pressure with that vacuum aspect, but not normally with throttle body injection... ?
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang
    1974 Pontiac LeMans

  18. #543

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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Lookin' good, Brock!

    One curiosity: this system requires a vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator? Sorry if I missed you mentioning the reason for that, but I understand that port injection efi requires the variability of low-speed versus WOT fuel pressure with that vacuum aspect, but not normally with throttle body injection... ?
    FAST requires the use of a fuel pressure regulator with vacuum reference hooked up to manifold vacuum. They really don't clarify why but they said to do it and I did. It must have something to do with the way they programmed the computer.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  19. #544

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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    FAST requires the use of a fuel pressure regulator with vacuum reference hooked up to manifold vacuum. They really don't clarify why but they said to do it and I did. It must have something to do with the way they programmed the computer.
    Yes, okay, that must be thing for it then, for low speed (high vacuum, the vacuum acting on the side of the diaphragm to reduce fuel pressure) lesser fuel pressure, like port efi.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang
    1974 Pontiac LeMans

  20. #545
    FEP Senior Member qikgts's Avatar
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    Brock, see if the thread below helps for info on making a "true ignition" or hot in crank and run circuit.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...l-switched-hot
    '85 GT

    The other one... 2005 Lincoln LS 3.9L V8

  21. #546

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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    FAST requires the use of a fuel pressure regulator with vacuum reference hooked up to manifold vacuum. They really don't clarify why but they said to do it and I did. It must have something to do with the way they programmed the computer.
    Yeah, that is one thing I learned with FAST. You have to be careful with replacing the cam too. If the vacuum gets too low it will freak out. That is nice work you are doing. You don't really need gas to check the sending unit if it's still accessible. You could just turn the key on and manually raise and lower the float. I can't wait until you get her going! I bet that fuel injection is going to be sweet.

  22. #547

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    Wow Brock! Lots of progress, you really are pretty close to firing it up, Huh?

  23. #548
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Looking awesome, looking forward to the video clip of that puppy idling for the first time.

  24. #549
    FEP Supporter 82GTforME's Avatar
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    While I am not getting all of what you are deep into here Brock, I admire the tenacity and enthusiasm doing what others would proably stall out on when they run into difficulties along the way....or distractions like moving!

    Keep it up! Warmer weather and longer days are coming here so that along with your inspiring motivation will get me and others

  25. #550

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    While I am not getting all of what you are deep into here Brock, I admire the tenacity and enthusiasm doing what others would proably stall out on when they run into difficulties along the way....or distractions like moving!

    Keep it up! Warmer weather and longer days are coming here so that along with your inspiring motivation will get me and others
    Thanks Darran. I'm not sure why I got myself in this mess but I hope to pull out of it soon. I really despise wiring. The warmer days have helped with the motivation as it is nice to work in an open garage. Short timeframe to get it done, packed and moved into a new house helps too.

    Quote Originally Posted by JTurbo View Post
    Looking awesome, looking forward to the video clip of that puppy idling for the first time.
    Thanks Joe. It's really been a learning experience. Stay tuned for a running update!

    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Wow Brock! Lots of progress, you really are pretty close to firing it up, Huh?
    Not as close as I hoped, but hopefully soon Dave. Stay tuned!

    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Yeah, that is one thing I learned with FAST. You have to be careful with replacing the cam too. If the vacuum gets too low it will freak out. That is nice work you are doing. You don't really need gas to check the sending unit if it's still accessible. You could just turn the key on and manually raise and lower the float. I can't wait until you get her going! I bet that fuel injection is going to be sweet.
    Thanks for the info Homer, I will keep that in mind for a future motor build. As for the sending unit, I have it in the tank and the tank is installed already. I put some gas in it yesterday and the gauge reacts so I should be good there.

    Quote Originally Posted by qikgts View Post
    Brock, see if the thread below helps for info on making a "true ignition" or hot in crank and run circuit.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...l-switched-hot
    Thanks for the link! That should help down the road. For now, I utilized a "toggle" switch trigger for the CPU. I may leave it as it could be a good secondary anti theft device.....the first being the manual transmission.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

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