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  1. #876
    FEP Super Member
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    Roseburg Oregon
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    3,174

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    Car looks good ...I mean it !
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  2. #877
    FEP Supporter NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Jul 2004
    Location
    Montebello, CA
    Posts
    2,780

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    Looking beautiful
    2017 Mustang ECO BOOST (DD)
    1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other

  3. #878

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    It does look good. Did you find a tape stripe that was close I guess?

  4. #879

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    There ya go!

  5. #880
    FEP Super Member 82GTforME's Avatar
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    Feb 2013
    Location
    Western Canada
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    4,333
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    From the pictures, it looks really close Brock.

    I think I am realizing I am likely the only one that notices the really small things like a slight colour variance.

    Glad you have it done. I hope you are happy now and can just drive it the rest of the year!

  6. #881

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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    4/6/2017 1:16pm
    It did not take well to the quick application of the throttle and it sounded like it was breaking up pretty badly. Not sure if that is just part of the learning curve with this system or if I have something else going on, but I will keep a close eye on it.
    Wow! Hard to believe it was that long ago that I noticed and questioned this issue. I guess over the past year and a half, I had just modified the way I drove the car to avoid this issue and it became a non issue. Instead of getting to the root cause of it, I wrongly accepted it as a potential flaw of the EFI system.

    I couldn't have been more wrong.

    A while back, I drove to work and all was well in the world. Left work and ran to get a much needed haircut. After leaving the barber, the car wouldn't run very well at all as it was coughing, sputtering and would barely run unless the throttle was nursed. Even then, much over 1/4 throttle would put it into tizzy. Looking at the handheld, it showed horribly lean at 15.9 when it was acting up.

    Once I got it home, and over the course of a week or so, I started testing items starting with the fuel system. It had been questioned if I had enough pressure and flow to supply the EFI. I checked pressure and it was fine and holding steady at the 43 psi that FAST recommends. I felt I had enough flow as when lugging the car did not produce the same symptoms as the high speed/rpm pulls that plagued me from day one. I ran the tests with the vacuum both hooked up and unhooked from the FPR.

    Next, I checked the timing. Many thanks to Bill for answering some dumb questions I had and taking the time to help me out. Verified that the timing was acceptable for this car, so I kind of eliminated timing as an issue. What was an issue was the crappy fitment of the distributor rotor. It easily moved on the shaft and probably had a good 5 degrees of movement. Changed it out with a good quality piece.

    I checked the ignition module and it tested well as did the ignition coil.

    Beginning to scratch my head, I took it for another road test and while better, it still struggled to get over 3500 rpm without beginning to break up. This time, i happened to scroll through all the screens of the EFI and noticed what they call an IRM count. It is the calculated "electrical noise" that the ECU is seeing. When I set this up, the count was 00. What I saw during the tests ranged from 00 to 101. The high numbers were seen during the car acting up.

    With this piece of information, it made me believe that something in the ignition system was breaking up and causing a ton of noise.
    I checked all the spark plugs and wires and they were ok. Rolled the car outside in the dark and ran it checking for any wire arcing and didn't find any issues there. I decided to borrow an ignition coil from a buddy and low and behold, that was the issue! This car had never ran better in the 6,000 miles since the EFI conversion and all acting up, "lean" conditions and so forth are gone.

    What sucks about this is that the ignition coil was new out of the box 6000 miles ago. With what I have seen over the past year and a half tells me that it was not right from day one.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  7. #882

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    Now that the car is running great, it opens the door for another problem.

    Isn't that about right???

    Rolled it out of the garage and heard a clicking noise previously unheard. Talking to a few guys, it sounds like a trans issue which leads me to this scene.

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    From all accounts, it appears input bearings are shot and possible other issues in there. Should have it torn down tonight or tomorrow and find out the extent of the issue.

    Oh.....did I forget to mention that there are 2 car shows that I have to attend coming here the 23rd and 29th of this month?
    Figures.......
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  8. #883

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    If anybody can get it done in time it is you Brock. Me, I am lazy and would buy a new tremac and throw in and be done. After turning wrenches all day the last thing I want to do when I get home is work on my own car.
    Bob
    1967 mustang coupe -sold
    1967 cougar GT - sold
    1984 Mustang L 5.0L - Totaled
    1984 Mustang GT 5.0L
    2007 Mustang GT convertible ( wifes car)
    1997 F-350 powerstroke
    USMC Retired 1981-2001

  9. #884

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    t5z...

  10. #885

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    I’m glad you got it running smoothly Brock.......I mean other than.........I......uh........

    At least a transmission rebuild is fairly quick.

  11. #886
    FEP Senior Member 83gt351w's Avatar
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    Nov 2014
    Location
    Grand Rapids, Mi
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    596

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    Don’t forget to spit shine that baby, and go to Autozone and pick up a can of Alumi Blast. She’ll be purty.

  12. #887
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Oct 2014
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta, Canada
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    770

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    Quote Originally Posted by 83gt351w View Post
    Don’t forget to spit shine that baby, and go to Autozone and pick up a can of Alumi Blast. She’ll be purty.
    I bead blasted mine when I had it all gutted out. Looks like new. Just have to be really thorough cleaning it after to get all the grit.

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  13. #888

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    YIKES! You don't mess around. Back out and hear a ticking noise, pull it back in and tear it totally apart. I drove a car making a strange popping sound from the rear axle daily for about 2 months once while troubleshooting the cause, LOL. Call me Lazy. I did end up rebuilding the whole rear axle in the end though.

  14. #889

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    Got it apart and for sure the bearings are pretty well toast in both ends of the main shaft and not real great in the countershaft. While they hadn't failed yet, they probably were not going to last much longer.

    While that is a fairly simple fix, what I ran into was more in line with the way things always seem to go for me.

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    That is the input shaft and those 2 teeth really prevent me from attempting to rebearing it and trying it. The rest of the gears, syncros and so forth look great. It appears that this trans has been gone through and rebuilt in its previous life.
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 09-11-2018 at 01:23 PM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  15. #890

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    While not optimal, due to the situation a buddy loaned me a fresh WC T5....unfortunately it is out of a 4 cyl. Knowing that, I did a ton of research on the input shaft and bearing in the crank needed to make it work. All signs point to a 6202zz bearing is what is needed and I have access to plenty of those.

    With that being said, the clutch and so forth needs to come out. While I knew the clutch was getting a bit weak and needed changed sooner than later, off it has to come now.

    Popped it out of there and got a good look at the flywheel....
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    Yup....she's toasty and I believe past trying to attempt a resurface with.

    Time to come up with Plan C.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  16. #891

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    Geez!

    T56 magnum.

  17. #892

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Geez!

    T56 magnum.
    That dude cost almost twice what I paid for the car!

    It would be nice though and maybe something to ponder in the future.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  18. #893

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    Trade me an A-5 or G Force gear set and I'll send you a stock T-5 WC gear set with a new main shaft. L:O:L (You pay the shipping of course)
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  19. #894

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    Quote Originally Posted by droopie85gt View Post
    Trade me an A-5 or G Force gear set and I'll send you a stock T-5 WC gear set with a new main shaft. L:O:L (You pay the shipping of course)
    LMAO!

    The Gforce T5 I had built for my 85 was just over $2000. I got the 1352-169 WC T5 gear set that was still in good shape back with the completed trans.

    All I had to do was supply a good case and an Astro bearing retainer. That included the mid-case bracing that often makes a stock case hold 600 ftlbs. I picked a 0.59:1 OD because I wanted good cruising RPM in 5th after I ran it 1-4 through my 3.55ís.

    Lots of options for 5th.

    1st is almost always 2.95:1 instead of 3.35, which is more desireable in front of anything lower (numerically higher) than a 3.08

    10.4725:1 to the wheels then a shorter (225/50/16) tire and it about golden. Anything more and itís almost a truck with Grandma low out of the hole. Lol. Should still run 45 at 6500 in 1st....

    Should hold up.... I hope! I remember when WC T5ís were 2200+ in 1993 money so no complaints.

  20. #895

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    I have a new T5Z with only about 1000 miles in it now, but I fear if I put a blower on the 302 or swap to a 351 I am going to need something stronger! I have a T5 in a box in the attic. I probably will get an A5 or G Force gear set and build that and sell the Z spec. I got a great deal on it a few years ago for $1100 still in the box.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  21. #896

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    Update....

    While trying to decide what to do about the flywheel situation, I went through the WC 4 cyl transmission and cleaned and inspected everything in it. This was a necessity as it was partially disassembled when I picked it up from my buddy. Gears, syncros, shafts, bearings all looked good and no real visible wear. I made sure I cleaned everything internally up to hopefully avoid any foreign contamination from tearing anything up. Installed a new input and output shaft seal in it as it's cheap insurance to hopefully prevent leaks. It took me a couple tries to figure out how to get it all put back together, even with a Tremec manual, but i finally got it reassembled and it bench tested ok.

    I finally heeded the advice of James and went with an 86+ 10.5" flywheel from Vatozone. With that required me to buy a new clutch kit as the one I had at the house was for the 10" 84 setup. Due to time and budget constraints, I picked up a Duralast clutch kit for it. I figure no harder than I tend to drive this car, it should serve me well for awhile. If anything, it wouldn't be any worse than the baked stuff I had in it.

    Installed the supporting cast of parts and it was time to put the tranny in. I figured it was super easy to take out by hand, it should be fairly easy to put back in the same way. Boy was I wrong!!!! It fought me and almost kicked my butt, but I finally got it in and buttoned up. I might invest in a tranny jack one day.

    Ironically, the POS X-pipe that usually gives me a ton of grief to put back on and get it set right so it doesn't leak popped right on. Even weirder is the fact not only did it seal correctly, it tucked up underneath correctly. Usually it hangs downhill something awful and looks like crap, but it doesn't leak. I don't get it.

    With everything back in place, I filled the tranny and took it for a test run. A few notable observations were made during the run.
    1) The new clutch is stiff!!! It's a bit of a left leg workout. It's not bad, but definitely not as easy as the previous one.
    2) Clutch engagement is either on or off and don't seem to be much middle ground. It has a very fine line between engaged and disengaged and the pedal position has changed dramatically. Not sure if this is normal, or if it is just me being used to the old one, but it seems to work fine to the best of my knowledge.
    3) The clicking when rolling backwards is gone. My buddy must have been right and it was something in the tail end of the tranny doing it.
    4) The change in gear ratios between the original trans and this 4 cyl trans is definitely noticeable and a bit odd feeling. IMO, 1st gear is about useless! It's not far off from granny low. 5th gear is a bit different also as now I run about 3k @ 75 mph. Previously it was about 2,300 or so. This is with a 3.27 rear gear in the car so I'm glad I don't have any more gear back there.
    5) It's really nice not hearing the throw-out bearing rattling like crazy anymore.

    Either way, the car ran and did decent during the test. Got her back to the house and on my way back from opening the garage door, I noticed something dripping. Yup....you guessed it.....tranny fluid.

    Back up on the ramps it went so I could see if I could isolate it. Everything was pretty wet so it was hard to tell where it was coming from. It appeared to be from the top cover but hard to tell. I rechecked all the bolts and stuff and tryed again. Still leaks which leads me here again.

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    TAKE 2!!!!!!!
    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 09-19-2018 at 09:11 AM.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  22. #897

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    Did you reset the quadrant?

  23. #898

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    After getting it out, I could inspect it closer. Nothing from the bottom of the case so I rolled it around. Once I got it rolled almost over on the top, I believe I found the source of the leak. It appears to be coming from the shift shaft housing between the 2 cases. I'm guessing the o-ring in there has been damaged or shrunk a bit. Looks like I need to pull the tail housing off and replace the o-ring. I probably should have done that to begin with, but the o-ring didn't look bad at all and it wasn't hard and brittle.

    Oh well, live and learn.

    All things considered, I'm pretty happy with the outcome, as this is the first time I have ever done a clutch and torn apart and reassembled a transmission. A minor little fluid leak is nothing considering everything else works.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  24. #899

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2nd chance cobra View Post
    Did you reset the quadrant?
    You know, I don't honestly remember. I had to release the quadrant so I could get the clutch cable back on after installing the new stuff, but i don't remember if I did anything after that.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  25. #900

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    They should auto reset... should. Mine did not, and it had a wierd feel till I stuck my head up under there and helped it along.

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