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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Default 351W roller vs flat tappet

    I'm still in the planning stages of my 82gt build, but I already have a 351w block machined and ready to go. I was wondering what your thoughts were on doing a roller cam. It's a non-roller block. I know what I need to convert it over, but here's my question. Since I'm not planning to go crazy with the cam lift, is it necessary to do this upgrade? It will be a fairly mild build, not a race car. Just curious if this is a worthwhile upgrade or would I just be throwing money away?.
    Last edited by Broncojunkie; 07-03-2015 at 02:11 AM.

  2. #2

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    I think the roller setup allows for a more sophisticated(for lack of a better word) cam profile, even if you're not going radical with it. A little less friction too.

    Flat tappet is fine for a mild build, although I've read a few gloom and doom prophecies on the internet, regarding flat tappets and today's motor oil...
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  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Direct from Comp Cams' Website:

    "Key Benefits: Modern, aggressive roller profiles, reduced friction, low maintenance, reduced valve train moise, more power than conventional hydraulic flat tappet camshafts
    Limitations: Increased cost, limited rpm range, profile limitations"

    I would recommend talking with Comp Cams and others to see what they recommend for your build and that should help you decide if a retro roller cam is worth the added costs to you.

    Good Luck!

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  4. #4

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    i have been a victim of the flat tappet gloom and doom maybe twice, don't have the second apart yet. and on it we used "Joe Gibbs hotrod break in oil" while putting a bottle of zddp in at the first oil change and everything so for me i go roller just so i don't have to worry about it happening again. It expensive and time consuming when you wipe out a cam lobe so if you can afford it i would upgrade

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member Ethyl Cat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Broncojunkie View Post
    I'm still in the planning stages of my 82gt build, but I already have a 351w block machined and ready to go. I was wondering what your thoughts were on doing a roller cam. It's a non-roller block. I know what I need to convert it over, but here's my question. Since I'm not planning to go crazy with the cam lift, is it necessary to do this upgrade? It will be a fairly mild build, not a race car. Just curious if this is a worthwhile upgrade or would I just be throwing money away?.
    You need to figure out what your goal for the engine is and then put a solid (realistic) number down for a budget. Then you can start to figure out how to get there.

    I would not be afraid of a flat tappet personally, but I have not experienced any of the failure issues hat have been brought up. Knock on wood....

    Many times the cam gets blamed for a failure that is ultimately caused by something else.
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  6. #6
    FEP Power Member Ltngdrvr's Avatar
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    Flat tappet cams have been around for a long time(obviously) and you can make plenty of power with one.

    A roller cam has many advantages, but if cost is an issue then go flat tappet.

    You just have to be VERY careful about cam break-in so that it will live for a long time.
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  7. #7
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    Roller, hands down
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  8. #8

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    with the cheap prices of ford hydralic roller motors i don't even consider flat tappets any longe i gave $200 for my 88 roller 302 and can go today and pick up a roller 351 for $200 so you may want to keep an eye on your local craigs list

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member Ltngdrvr's Avatar
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    Always nice when people are so free with other peoples MONEY...

    The OP already has a freshly machined 351w non-roller block, so the best money is to go with that and the flat tappet cam.
    1979 Zephyr, EFI GT40P 5.0, Mac longtubes, Dynomax exhaust, AODE transmission, 3.27 geared 8.8, subframe connectors, Lakewood uppers/lowers, trunk mounted battery, fuel cell >
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  10. #10
    FEP Power Member horsepowerjunkie's Avatar
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    The price of drop in link bar style hydro roller lifters has gone way down. I think the cost is worth the no headache, no worries, reliability of the hydro roller set up.
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  11. #11
    FEP Super Member FM2NOTCH's Avatar
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    keep it simple, flat tappets and royal purple break in oil with proper break in procedure
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  12. #12
    FEP Power Member Ethyl Cat's Avatar
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    Cheap hydraulic rollers are just that.....CHEAP!!!

    Just as much potential for failure/faults there as well.
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  13. #13
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the input! I think I'll go ahead and budget for the roller set-up. I seriously doubt I'll ever have an issue with flat tappet, but it's probably worth the peace of mind. I'm the type that would keep that in the back of my mind and always worry about it lol!

  14. #14
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Oh, and for the record, I would have started with a roller block, but I just traded around for this one and got a good deal. I had thought about doing a 408 stroker build, but that's really more than I need...and just a waste of money. I also understand the extra stress put on the rotating assembly, and a longer-lasting motor would suit me better than a beast.

  15. #15
    FEP Power Member Ethyl Cat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Broncojunkie View Post
    Oh, and for the record, I would have started with a roller block, but I just traded around for this one and got a good deal. I had thought about doing a 408 stroker build, but that's really more than I need...and just a waste of money. I also understand the extra stress put on the rotating assembly, and a longer-lasting motor would suit me better than a beast.
    I have a 600hp 418W out there with 30+ thousand miles that gets shifted at 7000rpm. 2 bolt main with bolts. Do not worry about stress
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  16. #16
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    ^ I'm with stupid..

    Oops, I mean I totally agree with Ethyl Cat
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  17. #17
    FEP Power Member Ltngdrvr's Avatar
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    Yeah, was looking around a while back and there are some of the turbo guys out there with the F4TE 351w roller cam blocks pumping out over 1000 HP and not splitting the block like a 5.0 will do at half that HP.
    1979 Zephyr, EFI GT40P 5.0, Mac longtubes, Dynomax exhaust, AODE transmission, 3.27 geared 8.8, subframe connectors, Lakewood uppers/lowers, trunk mounted battery, fuel cell >
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