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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member
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    Default Tubular K member in early FOX?s

    I am considering installing tubular front K members in each of my cars (78 Fairmont 2 door sedan, 85 Mustang HB), but I have heard that many of the aftermarket K members move the wheels further outwards, and/or lengthen the cars wheelbase, neither is a change I really want to deal with. I have also heard that most of these K members are designed for the later 87-93 Mustangs, and that can cause fitment issues when trying to install 1 in an earlier car. Both my cars are dragstrip use only, so I don`t really care about changes made to improve handling, or a cushy ride on city streets. On the Fairmont, which has a heavy, all iron 428FE engine, and has been known to wheelstand pretty high, I would prefer to retain stock lower control arms with the factory coil springs for the strength. Has anybody had any experiances, good or bad, with installing an aftermarket K member in a early FOX, preferably a 78 Fairmont. The main reason for wanting to go this route on my Fairmont is its about time to have a new set of custom made headers built, and a tube K member frees up so much more room under the hood. Losing a few pounds is just a bonus.
    1978 Fairmont 2 door sedan, 428CJ 4speed. 9.972ET@132.54mph. 1.29 60 foot
    Replaced the FE big block with my 331/4 speed in my Fairmont, best 10.24ET @128 MPH.
    1985 Mustang LX hatchback NHRA Stock Eliminator 302 4 speed best in legal trim 12.31@107 mph, but has gone 11.42@115 with aftermarket intake, carb, and iron Windsor Jr. heads.New for 2012! 331 cube SB Ford, AFR 185 heads, solid flat tappet cam, pump gas; 10.296ET@128.71 mph, 1.37 60 foot.
    1979 Zephyr Z7, all original 302 auto, 2nd owner.

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Fearnot's Avatar
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    Name:  image.jpg
Views: 1703
Size:  117.8 KBI've put a AJE tube crossmember in our 79 Futura. We used the one for the 4.6 because that's what we put in it. Have not noticed any change in wheel base but did find that the original lower control arms had to be used. Had bought new 01-04 LCA from Ford Racing but they pushed the wheels out. Running 05 GT wheels.
    88 Turbo Coupe auto
    88 Turbo Coupe 5spd
    79 Fairmont Futura 4.6
    79 Capri RS - 2.3/5spd restomod
    80 Capri 5.0/5spd project
    79 Zephyr Z7 factory 5.0 sunroof
    79 Pace Car 5.0/5spd project
    85 LTD LX factory 5spd?(not documented)
    86 GT conv 5.0/5spd
    79 Pace Car 2.3/4spd - needs new home

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member smitty54's Avatar
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    This is what I install in my 84 Mustang (only it was the one for convertibles ) and it fits just fine.
    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/4-...dtop-P810.aspx
    "Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone driving faster than you is a maniac."
    George Carlin, Rest in peace

    Rick
    84 GT Convertible
    68 Cougar XR7
    14 Ford Explorer Limited

  4. #4

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    I have a QA1 tubular k-member in my '79 Zephyr. It does extend the wheelbase a bit, but I haven't had any wheel interference issues at all with my SVO wheels. I have stock lower control arms and regular coil springs too. Everything works well together.

    We did have to use a ratchet strap to get the rear mounting holes to line up when installing. That was the only issue, really.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #5

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    I just installed a UPR mild steel K-member in my '79 mustang. The one I got was specifically advertised to not change the wheelbase, they were correct, it didn't. I used stock aero mustang control arms.

    I have a Qa-1 k-member in my '90 mustang. It moved my front tires forward at least an inch. I used factory control arms on this install too. The arms had to be clearanced to fit the Qa-1 member. Directions on this step were included.

    Jess
    Last edited by Mustang-junky; 06-29-2015 at 09:34 PM.
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mustang-junky View Post
    The arms had to be clearanced to fit the Qa-1 member. Directions on this step were included.
    Interesting. I got mine used so there were no directions. Where are you supposed to clearance them?
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    I used a UPR Moly k member kit for my 79 mustang and it is fine.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  8. #8

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    Interesting. I got mine used so there were no directions. Where are you supposed to clearance them?
    I had to grind down the control arm in back of the control arm bushing. The stamping left a bit sticking out that will not allow the control arm to droop down when installed without some clearancing.

    I'm not sure if they changed they way they make their k-member now, but I had to do what the describe in this write up.


    Modifying parts
    This applies to my QA1 K and stock A-arms. Your process may be different if you are using another brand or tubular arms. There may be some other modifications you have to do to other parts, but this is all it took for mine. Step number two specifically.

    http://mustangboards.com/reference-s...-k-member.html

    1. With mine, the rear A-arm mounting holes were drilled relatively high. I believe this is an issue with all QA1 K members. It’s nothing major. The stock bolt has a round “flange” on it as part of the head. What I did, was grind 3 sides of this flange down to the flat sides of the head of the bolt. I used a bench grinder. I test fit it in the holes to make sure it fit properly. Grinding only 3 sides has the added benefit of keeping the head of the bolt from spinning when you re-install the nuts on the other end.
    2. The “ears” on the inside of the stock A-arms need to be ground down. I took off about half an inch of material, using an angle grinder/ die cutter with a carbide bit. If you’re strong, you can use a bench grinder, but those a-arms are heavy. Every once in a while, test fit the a-arms to the new K-member. Put the bolts through the mounting holes and swivel the A-arms through their full range of motion to make sure they don’t bind or rub anywhere. Once you have them where you want them, I would suggest hitting the parts you ground with some flat black spray paint (you can use gloss, but why?) to keep them from rusting. You don’t have to do this, but IMO, it’s probably a pretty good idea.
    3. Test fit the entire assembly together to make sure everything lines up and you can feed the bolts through the whole way. Disassemble everything again, and grab your friend for help.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  9. #9

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mustang-junky View Post
    I had to grind down the control arm in back of the control arm bushing. The stamping left a bit sticking out that will not allow the control arm to droop down when installed without some clearancing.

    I'm not sure if they changed they way they make their k-member now, but I had to do what the describe in this write up.


    Modifying parts
    This applies to my QA1 K and stock A-arms. Your process may be different if you are using another brand or tubular arms. There may be some other modifications you have to do to other parts, but this is all it took for mine. Step number two specifically.

    http://mustangboards.com/reference-s...-k-member.html

    1. With mine, the rear A-arm mounting holes were drilled relatively high. I believe this is an issue with all QA1 K members. It’s nothing major. The stock bolt has a round “flange” on it as part of the head. What I did, was grind 3 sides of this flange down to the flat sides of the head of the bolt. I used a bench grinder. I test fit it in the holes to make sure it fit properly. Grinding only 3 sides has the added benefit of keeping the head of the bolt from spinning when you re-install the nuts on the other end.
    2. The “ears” on the inside of the stock A-arms need to be ground down. I took off about half an inch of material, using an angle grinder/ die cutter with a carbide bit. If you’re strong, you can use a bench grinder, but those a-arms are heavy. Every once in a while, test fit the a-arms to the new K-member. Put the bolts through the mounting holes and swivel the A-arms through their full range of motion to make sure they don’t bind or rub anywhere. Once you have them where you want them, I would suggest hitting the parts you ground with some flat black spray paint (you can use gloss, but why?) to keep them from rusting. You don’t have to do this, but IMO, it’s probably a pretty good idea.
    3. Test fit the entire assembly together to make sure everything lines up and you can feed the bolts through the whole way. Disassemble everything again, and grab your friend for help.

    Jess
    Cool, thanks. My suspension is completely assembled, but I guess I'd better look and see if that's causing problems.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  10. #10

    Default

    I have the granatelli drag arms on the granatelli member up front,on the rear I have 2000 cobra rear end with 3.73 gears and saleen lower control arms. Five lug conversion. I am currently researching the maximum motorsports panhard and torg brace. Since I keep breaking the old panhard rod off.

  11. #11
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
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    Quote Originally Posted by Copperhead Capri View Post
    I have the granatelli drag arms on the granatelli member up front,on the rear I have 2000 cobra rear end with 3.73 gears and saleen lower control arms. Five lug conversion. I am currently researching the maximum motorsports panhard and torg brace. Since I keep breaking the old panhard rod off.

    Not trying to be a jerk here, just trying to point out a few things, so bear with me. It appears that someone has given you bad or just plain wrong information.

    First there was no 2000 Cobra produced. The only Cobra Mustang was the Cobra R. The next issue is that all Cobras from 1999-2004 have an Independent Rear Suspension rather than a solid axle.

    I am assuming if you are breaking a panhard rod that means you have a solid rear axle. That means the your rear end assembly if a Cobra unit must be from the 94-98 models.

    I mention this to help in getting parts in the future, so that you are able to get the correct ones and avoid confusion. I would also recommend verifying the overall length of your rear axle from hub to hub as the 94-98 SN95 rear ends have a track width of @ 58.7" while the 99-04 Mustang have an overall track width of @ 60.3" which will affect your wheel offsets, etc.

    Hope that helps and again trying to help out.

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  12. #12

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    Thanks, it is solid axle. Looking back at the partial parts list the brakes are supposed to be 2000 cobra. I am in the process of figuring out hub to hub as per the sales rep from maximum motorsports. The problem with buying a frankencar in the deciphering of the compentents. Thank you pointing out. I do eñjoy the statement not trying to be jerk, that can be taken multiple ways. I have a lot of work to do on the suspension. I started another thread hoping someone might know more about the car because there several other unknowns about the car, but that is part of the fun.
    Thanks again for the input, I will be more cognizant of future posts.

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Feb 2009
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    Western PA
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    9,618

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    I think you'll find there isn't a cooler bunch of folks to help sort things out than here at FEP. You definitely want to get that panhard rod situation sorted out, that could ruin your day if it breaks at speed.
    Last edited by PaceFever79; 01-27-2016 at 12:51 PM.

  14. #14

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    Thanks, there seems to be lots of knowledge and expirence here. I know just enough to cause trouble. I have had the panhard rod bracket break twice and I am not taking chances with up grade.

  15. #15
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
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    As PaceCarFever79 stated, you won't find a better group of Fox owners than here on FEP!

    As for being a jerk, . . . well it does come naturally for me , so I try to keep it in check. I just wanted to make you aware that I am not trying to tell you what your car does or does not have as I have never seen it personally. Just trying to help you sort it out with some information as to what it may or may not be. The guys at Maximum are great to work with and I highly recommend them and their products!

    Best of Luck!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  16. #16

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    Thanks for your help.I was over on another forum vin decoder and found some cool stuff.I wished some of you guys lived closer. I want get this sorted out as a road race car for track days at summit point. Thanks again

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