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  1. #51
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperDuty455 View Post
    Thanks The white and the red run and drive actually, but the red isn't road worthy (brakes barely work and the ignition is in poor condition).
    I prefer colored interior but interior parts can be hard to find indeed, nothing exist for my '84 T/A, and it's just a light beige, nothing exotic.
    I'm planning to respray the panels of the red interior, they're not dry rot yet but the doors panels are quite discolored. SEM spray paints aren't available here, but I can get Foliatec paints. Has anybody tried this brand ? They don't have as much color to choose though.

    Also I just noticed something while removing the old broken fog lamp on the red notch, is that the rear bumper is aluminium.
    So I checked the bumpers on all cars, the two notchbacks have front AND rear aluminium bumpers, and the V6 has front and back steel bumpers. I searched on the forum which cars got what but it seems a bit random. The Vaquero and the white hatchback were built maybe the same day at the Dearborn factory as their respective VINs sequence numbers are very close. Maybe they put the aluminium bumpers on the four cylinder models to lighten them a bit and help the low power engine ?
    Have you tried looking at this company, Year One, for your T/A parts?
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
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  2. #52

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    Yes, I've search through all known site, "Light Sand Gray" is omitted nearly everytime, except or the headliner. I saw no improvement there since I started looking in 2009. I can't find any seat covers, interior pieces, or even the carpet in this color. It's an 83-84 color only, but it was in '83 DT500 Pace Cars and '84 15th Anniversary so there's a market for this color. I asked for samples at SMS auto fabrics once, and they sent me the "Dark Charcoal" color samples instead :/

    I've finally pulled the carpet of the Vaquero. I thought the studs were spinning as the nut was stuck, but the stud was actually unscrewing...I even found a spare stud left under the carpet at the factory, next to the build sheet. Just like in my Trans Am, it's stuck to the floor and unreadable
    Once the mouldy seats and carpet were out, I immediately pressure washed them to get rid of all that nasty stuff. The carpet didn't like it at all, it has become very fragile. It started ripping when I got it out of the car. I'm going to need another one.
    I did find some rust around the rear seat belts mounts over the frame rails I believe, it seem to be a common place for rust to start in these cars. The red one has rust here too, but much less.
    I've cleaned the quarter panel interior trim of the Vaquero and Red, they're in good nick ! The black ones only have a few minor scratches. The red ones are a bit faded, but I found a company that sells vinyl/soft plastic dye in France. I compared the original color to model kit paints I have, and found a nearly identical match with the Revell SM-331, which is RAL 3004 Purple Red. So I'll probably order a few cans.

    Does anyone reproduce the original headliner vinyl ? As for the package tray, I really don't care about the fabric they used, there are better looking alternatives.
    I found this vinyl that I think would look good on the headliner of the red one. It's not foam backed though : http://www.ebay.de/itm/ORIGINAL-Auto...item28007b8e28

  3. #53

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    I found a super nice build sheet in the white hatchback Is there any other place I could find one in the other cars ?



    Makes me want to keep it totally stock now :P

  4. #54

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    Common places for build sheets are:

    under carpet
    behind interior quarter trim panels
    stuffed inside seat rail
    between lower seat cushion and springs
    footwell/kick panel
    under spare wheel/tire
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  5. #55

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    Allright, that doesn't leave many areas to look for now that both notchbacks interiors are stripped. Too bad the one in the Vaquero was in poor condition.

    Do you notice anything special on this build sheet ?

  6. #56
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    Not every car has a build sheet in it unfortunately. My 84 had no trace of any build sheets save for two behind the passenger side trim panel and they were for two other cars!
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  7. #57

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    Yes they just stuffed them where they could along the assembly line, it's quicker than going to the trash can ! Also I believe the dealers took out all the factory things that remained in the cars, and that sometimes included build sheets.

    Is there a way to decode the build sheets ? GM build sheets have all the RPO codes that are really easy to read, but these appear to be only factory specific parts codes.

  8. #58
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    82GTforME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperDuty455 View Post
    Allright, that doesn't leave many areas to look for now that both notchbacks interiors are stripped. Too bad the one in the Vaquero was in poor condition.

    Do you notice anything special on this build sheet ?
    I found our two '79 build sheets stuffed under a spring under the front drivers seat. Both were San Jose built cars.
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  9. #59

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    Yes, I can decode a lot of the sheet but not all of it. I have been working on putting all of the sheets in the database so that I might be able to figure out more codes.
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  10. #60

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    VIN
    9 = 1979 model year
    F = Dearborn Assembly
    05 = Mustang Ghia 3-dr hatchback
    Z = 2.8L V6 engine
    347381 = 247,381st 1979 Ford scheduled for production at Dearborn Assembly

    Build Sheet
    Line A
    Rotations Number - 0862 = trim & chassis rotations #0862
    Line - Z = Mustang model line
    Serial Number - 9F05Z347381 = [decoded above]
    Body - Type - 61H = Mustang Ghia 3-dr hatchback
    Paint, Ext - 9D = Polar White exterior paint color
    Trim - SA = vinyl seating, low-back front buckets (S), Black interior trim color (A)
    Type of Order - 1 = retail order
    Region/District - 90 = export district sales office
    Special Order - 1370 = 1979 special order #1370

    Line B
    Engine Tag Number - KK952AD = 1979 model year (1st K), Thermactor emissions system (2nd K), 2.8L V6 (952), calibration and revision level AD
    Transmission Code - W = C4 automatic transmission
    Transmission Part Number - D9ZP AB = automatic transmission (P) originally engineered for 1979 Mustang (D9) Mustang (Z), release level AB

    Line D
    Wipers - 0 = front interval windshield wipers and rear washer/wiper
    Defogger - E = electric rear defrost
    Radios - [blank] =no radio
    Spkrs - [blank] = no speakers
    Light Group - V = visibility (light group)
    Locks - [blank] = no power door locks
    Tint - [blank] = no tinted glass
    Seats, Power - M = 4-way adjustable driver seat
    Seats, Bucket - 2 = low-back front buckets
    Belts, Type - D = deluxe set belts
    Belts, Color - A = Black seat belts
    Console - C = console
    Mirror, Inside - P = passenger vanity mirror?

    Line E
    Battery - DB = type battery?
    Brakes - P = power brakes
    Front Springs - LEJ = [door tag TR code "CC"]
    Rear Springs - PEV = [door tag TR code "MM"]

    Line F
    Wheels - TX = TRX (forged metric aluminum) wheels
    Tires, Size 190R - 190/65R390 tires (Michelin TRX)
    Tires, Construct - R = radial tires
    Frt License Plate Bracket - X = front license plate bracket

    Line G
    Mouldings, Rocker - R = rocker mouldings
    Mouldings, Bodyside, Type/Color - WU = wide bodyside mouldings (W)
    Bumper Guard - S = steel bumpers?
    Accent Stripe Color - 1
    Gas Quantity - 0 = 0 gallons gas
    Last edited by FoxChassis; 09-01-2016 at 07:53 PM.
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  11. #61

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    Thanks man ! She does have steel bumpers, so the S might be for that.
    :
    Little job for today, I replaced the DS tail light base of the white hatchback, as it had three large holes made to install a rear fog light mandatory in Belgium. I use the one from the red notch , as they installed the fog light below the rear bumper on this one. So I started lightly sanding the original faded surface, then degreased it and masked the surrounding area :


    After a few coats of chrome effect paint :


    Masking removed :


    Back in place :


    You'll notice a slight difference in color, I will have to do the same on the other side. The red looks brighter now. Simple job but the rear end looks a lot better now without this protruding red light.

  12. #62
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    I wondered if you'd have to leave that fog light. Amazing what a little bit of silver paint does for the brightness of the light. I just did the same to my car.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  13. #63

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    The cars will all have a "Collector" title, so they don't need the old homologation stuff. I'll be removing the paddle mirrors as well and getting some original ones.
    If I were in Belgium I'd have to leave them on though.

    Just ordered a lot of new parts from Rockauto ! Everything I need to get at least two cars road worthy and a bit more for the third one : brake pads, shoes, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, hoses, belts, timing belt, distributor caps and rotors, spark plugs and wires, air filter, fuel filter, oil filter, transmission filter, sway bar links, wiper blades, one carb rebuild kit and float for the L4, and more...for a bit over $600 with shipping.

    ...and I forgot the oil filter for the V6. I should be able to get one here as those are european engines.

  14. #64

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    Here's a video of the hatchback running


  15. #65
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Bonjour, mon ami. That white one sounded pretty good. Nice work.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
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  16. #66

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    Thanks ! But I haven't done much more than installing a battery, filling the gas tank and adding a bit of fluid in the trans !

    I've just received my rust preventive paint called Brantho-Korrux 3 in 1, it's similar to POR-15 but it is UV resistant. I read a lot of positive reviews about it on many german forums. I've used POR-15 in the past but while it's extremely strong when used on rough surfaces, it wasn't good on clean metal even with their treatement products, and it reacted with the primers applied over it. Since I won't go into an extensive restoration for the Mustangs (the last time I did that it took me six years to finish ) it will be perfect to protect the repaired areas.

    My Rockauto order has just been shipped to, hopefully I'll get it before the week end. It's usually pretty quick.

  17. #67
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Just a quick FYI in regards to products like POR-15, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and others. Those type of products are rust converters and need actual rusty metal to work and adhere properly. When applied over clean metal or painted metal the products do not have the chemical reaction with the substrate as they would when applied over a rusty piece of metal. That is the reason they don't work well. They Need the rust for them to bond and chemically attach to the substrate.

    I am not familiar with Brantho-Korrux 3, but most rust Preventive coatings are formulated differently than POR-15 and others. They are designed to be applied to a clean metal surface and Prevent rust from forming not converting rust that is already there.

    Ok, Soap Box off now! Let us know how things go with the BK3 and good luck!

    Trey
    ​Trey

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  18. #68

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    Indeed, POR15 doesn't bond well to clean metal. I used their prep (Marine Clean and Metal Ready) but I guess the steel was still too smooth for it. So if I ever get some more on day, I'll use it only as its name implies : Paint Over Rust. But with the euro value lowering, importing some from the UK makes it extremely expensive. Like 80€/$100 for a quart with shipping :/ Back when I bought some in 2010 the £ and the € were about equal. I doubt I'll get any before a while.
    Brantho Korrux is 17.50€/$20 for 750ml and shipping is much lower. I bought two cans of black and a can of metallic grey which I hope will look good enough to replicate the bare metal appearance of some parts. According to the datasheet, it can be applied over light surface rust after any debris and scales have been removed.

  19. #69

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    I've cut the rust on the red notch this afternoon, what started as small holes ended up much bigger. These areas are rust nests ! I've cut as much as needed as metal was a bit thin underneath. But these are simple patch panels.

    I'm not sure if there's supposed to be paint inside the frame rails but it was very flaky. I found only one spot on the frame rail that was a bit thin but it's too small to be a problem.

    There's still one hole on the front passenger side toe panel and the cracks on the floor that are in need of attention. It's all I've found as far as rust is concerned.


    Hopefully, the floor will be finished in a few days so I can put the interior back in.

  20. #70

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    Hi, I've received my Rockauto order :


    So I went straight to the Vaquero notch and replaced the ignition wires, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, and the fuel filter. I'm getting a very sharp white spark now. The firing order was wrong, put it back as it should be : 1342. Perfect. I then poured a bit of gas in the carb. It should at least pop once or twice right ? Yet, the engine wont start at all. I loosened the distributor and moved it a bit, no change.
    Since I'm out of options, I'm thinking the timing is off.
    I pulled everything in front of the timing cover, which has been removed too, showing a rather tired timing belt but it should be enough to move the car in the farm.
    But now I'm stuck. The fan and water pump pulley wont budge (I removed the four bolts), as well as the crank pulley that looks like it needs a special tool to take off the big bolt.
    Do you guys have a trick for these ?

  21. #71

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    Nevermind, I got the bolt out. I had to try a little harder. But the pulley doesn't move one bit :/ It's quite rusty down here.
    The water pump pulley is loose but the fan still won't come out. I don't really like to pull too hard on it.

  22. #72
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    Probably need to get a rubber mallet and tap on the fan. They tend to get a little stuck over time.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  23. #73

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    Finally got all the pulleys out, it's quite rusty in there :


    And the timing is indeed waaaaay off. This is the cam pulley where the crank is at TDC :

  24. #74

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    So I've put the belt back in place but it seems like the ignition is off now. I'm getting some occasional "pops" in the exhaust, but mst of it is coming out of the carb. I even got a fire as I put a little bit of gas on the side of the carb...no damage, just a burnt loom.

    The middle timing pulley engages the oil pump and distributor right ? From my research, the mark should be at the top (I can't see any mark on the back cover). That's how I set it.
    I moved the distributor quite a bit but it didn't help.

  25. #75
    FEP Senior Member Tigger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperDuty455 View Post
    So I've put the belt back in place but it seems like the ignition is off now. I'm getting some occasional "pops" in the exhaust, but mst of it is coming out of the carb. I even got a fire as I put a little bit of gas on the side of the carb...no damage, just a burnt loom.

    The middle timing pulley engages the oil pump and distributor right ? From my research, the mark should be at the top (I can't see any mark on the back cover). That's how I set it.
    I moved the distributor quite a bit but it didn't help.
    So when you align the crank and the cam shaft the rotor on the distributor needs to be under number one spark plug. Keep in mind when you put tension on the belt it will change slightly so you have to compensate for it.

    Hopefully this will solve your problem.
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