Have you tried looking at this company, Year One, for your T/A parts?
Have you tried looking at this company, Year One, for your T/A parts?
Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
Buyer/Seller Experience Link
Build Thread
The Four-Eyed Game - 2018 Version
Yes, I've search through all known site, "Light Sand Gray" is omitted nearly everytime, except or the headliner. I saw no improvement there since I started looking in 2009. I can't find any seat covers, interior pieces, or even the carpet in this color. It's an 83-84 color only, but it was in '83 DT500 Pace Cars and '84 15th Anniversary so there's a market for this color. I asked for samples at SMS auto fabrics once, and they sent me the "Dark Charcoal" color samples instead :/
I've finally pulled the carpet of the Vaquero. I thought the studs were spinning as the nut was stuck, but the stud was actually unscrewing...I even found a spare stud left under the carpet at the factory, next to the build sheet. Just like in my Trans Am, it's stuck to the floor and unreadable
Once the mouldy seats and carpet were out, I immediately pressure washed them to get rid of all that nasty stuff. The carpet didn't like it at all, it has become very fragile. It started ripping when I got it out of the car. I'm going to need another one.
I did find some rust around the rear seat belts mounts over the frame rails I believe, it seem to be a common place for rust to start in these cars. The red one has rust here too, but much less.
I've cleaned the quarter panel interior trim of the Vaquero and Red, they're in good nick ! The black ones only have a few minor scratches. The red ones are a bit faded, but I found a company that sells vinyl/soft plastic dye in France. I compared the original color to model kit paints I have, and found a nearly identical match with the Revell SM-331, which is RAL 3004 Purple Red. So I'll probably order a few cans.
Does anyone reproduce the original headliner vinyl ? As for the package tray, I really don't care about the fabric they used, there are better looking alternatives.
I found this vinyl that I think would look good on the headliner of the red one. It's not foam backed though : http://www.ebay.de/itm/ORIGINAL-Auto...item28007b8e28
Common places for build sheets are:
under carpet
behind interior quarter trim panels
stuffed inside seat rail
between lower seat cushion and springs
footwell/kick panel
under spare wheel/tire
Axle Tag Decoder
Buck Tag Decoder
Door Tag Decoder
Owner Card Decoder
Transmission Tag Decoder
VIN Decoder
FEP Registries: Black Magic & Crimson Cat / Cobra / Dominator / G.T.350 / LTD LX/Police & Marquis LTS / M81 / Pace Car / Predator / Saleen / Turbo GT & Turbo RS / Twister II
Wanted (Dead or Alive): VINs, door tags, buck tags, build sheets, window stickers, owner cards, transmission tags, axle tags
Allright, that doesn't leave many areas to look for now that both notchbacks interiors are stripped. Too bad the one in the Vaquero was in poor condition.
Do you notice anything special on this build sheet ?
Not every car has a build sheet in it unfortunately. My 84 had no trace of any build sheets save for two behind the passenger side trim panel and they were for two other cars!
1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.
2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup
Yes they just stuffed them where they could along the assembly line, it's quicker than going to the trash can ! Also I believe the dealers took out all the factory things that remained in the cars, and that sometimes included build sheets.
Is there a way to decode the build sheets ? GM build sheets have all the RPO codes that are really easy to read, but these appear to be only factory specific parts codes.
DarranOriginally Posted by BLUECRAPI
1982-1C (Black) GT T-Top:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...um-Blue-Bomber!
Yes, I can decode a lot of the sheet but not all of it. I have been working on putting all of the sheets in the database so that I might be able to figure out more codes.
Axle Tag Decoder
Buck Tag Decoder
Door Tag Decoder
Owner Card Decoder
Transmission Tag Decoder
VIN Decoder
FEP Registries: Black Magic & Crimson Cat / Cobra / Dominator / G.T.350 / LTD LX/Police & Marquis LTS / M81 / Pace Car / Predator / Saleen / Turbo GT & Turbo RS / Twister II
Wanted (Dead or Alive): VINs, door tags, buck tags, build sheets, window stickers, owner cards, transmission tags, axle tags
VIN
9 = 1979 model year
F = Dearborn Assembly
05 = Mustang Ghia 3-dr hatchback
Z = 2.8L V6 engine
347381 = 247,381st 1979 Ford scheduled for production at Dearborn Assembly
Build Sheet
Line A
Rotations Number - 0862 = trim & chassis rotations #0862
Line - Z = Mustang model line
Serial Number - 9F05Z347381 = [decoded above]
Body - Type - 61H = Mustang Ghia 3-dr hatchback
Paint, Ext - 9D = Polar White exterior paint color
Trim - SA = vinyl seating, low-back front buckets (S), Black interior trim color (A)
Type of Order - 1 = retail order
Region/District - 90 = export district sales office
Special Order - 1370 = 1979 special order #1370
Line B
Engine Tag Number - KK952AD = 1979 model year (1st K), Thermactor emissions system (2nd K), 2.8L V6 (952), calibration and revision level AD
Transmission Code - W = C4 automatic transmission
Transmission Part Number - D9ZP AB = automatic transmission (P) originally engineered for 1979 Mustang (D9) Mustang (Z), release level AB
Line D
Wipers - 0 = front interval windshield wipers and rear washer/wiper
Defogger - E = electric rear defrost
Radios - [blank] =no radio
Spkrs - [blank] = no speakers
Light Group - V = visibility (light group)
Locks - [blank] = no power door locks
Tint - [blank] = no tinted glass
Seats, Power - M = 4-way adjustable driver seat
Seats, Bucket - 2 = low-back front buckets
Belts, Type - D = deluxe set belts
Belts, Color - A = Black seat belts
Console - C = console
Mirror, Inside - P = passenger vanity mirror?
Line E
Battery - DB = type battery?
Brakes - P = power brakes
Front Springs - LEJ = [door tag TR code "CC"]
Rear Springs - PEV = [door tag TR code "MM"]
Line F
Wheels - TX = TRX (forged metric aluminum) wheels
Tires, Size 190R - 190/65R390 tires (Michelin TRX)
Tires, Construct - R = radial tires
Frt License Plate Bracket - X = front license plate bracket
Line G
Mouldings, Rocker - R = rocker mouldings
Mouldings, Bodyside, Type/Color - WU = wide bodyside mouldings (W)
Bumper Guard - S = steel bumpers?
Accent Stripe Color - 1
Gas Quantity - 0 = 0 gallons gas
Last edited by FoxChassis; 09-01-2016 at 07:53 PM.
Axle Tag Decoder
Buck Tag Decoder
Door Tag Decoder
Owner Card Decoder
Transmission Tag Decoder
VIN Decoder
FEP Registries: Black Magic & Crimson Cat / Cobra / Dominator / G.T.350 / LTD LX/Police & Marquis LTS / M81 / Pace Car / Predator / Saleen / Turbo GT & Turbo RS / Twister II
Wanted (Dead or Alive): VINs, door tags, buck tags, build sheets, window stickers, owner cards, transmission tags, axle tags
Thanks man ! She does have steel bumpers, so the S might be for that.
:
Little job for today, I replaced the DS tail light base of the white hatchback, as it had three large holes made to install a rear fog light mandatory in Belgium. I use the one from the red notch , as they installed the fog light below the rear bumper on this one. So I started lightly sanding the original faded surface, then degreased it and masked the surrounding area :
After a few coats of chrome effect paint :
Masking removed :
Back in place :
You'll notice a slight difference in color, I will have to do the same on the other side. The red looks brighter now. Simple job but the rear end looks a lot better now without this protruding red light.
I wondered if you'd have to leave that fog light. Amazing what a little bit of silver paint does for the brightness of the light. I just did the same to my car.
1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.
2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup
The cars will all have a "Collector" title, so they don't need the old homologation stuff. I'll be removing the paddle mirrors as well and getting some original ones.
If I were in Belgium I'd have to leave them on though.
Just ordered a lot of new parts from Rockauto ! Everything I need to get at least two cars road worthy and a bit more for the third one : brake pads, shoes, master cylinder, wheel cylinders, hoses, belts, timing belt, distributor caps and rotors, spark plugs and wires, air filter, fuel filter, oil filter, transmission filter, sway bar links, wiper blades, one carb rebuild kit and float for the L4, and more...for a bit over $600 with shipping.
...and I forgot the oil filter for the V6. I should be able to get one here as those are european engines.
Here's a video of the hatchback running
Bonjour, mon ami. That white one sounded pretty good. Nice work.
Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
Buyer/Seller Experience Link
Build Thread
The Four-Eyed Game - 2018 Version
Thanks ! But I haven't done much more than installing a battery, filling the gas tank and adding a bit of fluid in the trans !
I've just received my rust preventive paint called Brantho-Korrux 3 in 1, it's similar to POR-15 but it is UV resistant. I read a lot of positive reviews about it on many german forums. I've used POR-15 in the past but while it's extremely strong when used on rough surfaces, it wasn't good on clean metal even with their treatement products, and it reacted with the primers applied over it. Since I won't go into an extensive restoration for the Mustangs (the last time I did that it took me six years to finish ) it will be perfect to protect the repaired areas.
My Rockauto order has just been shipped to, hopefully I'll get it before the week end. It's usually pretty quick.
Just a quick FYI in regards to products like POR-15, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and others. Those type of products are rust converters and need actual rusty metal to work and adhere properly. When applied over clean metal or painted metal the products do not have the chemical reaction with the substrate as they would when applied over a rusty piece of metal. That is the reason they don't work well. They Need the rust for them to bond and chemically attach to the substrate.
I am not familiar with Brantho-Korrux 3, but most rust Preventive coatings are formulated differently than POR-15 and others. They are designed to be applied to a clean metal surface and Prevent rust from forming not converting rust that is already there.
Ok, Soap Box off now! Let us know how things go with the BK3 and good luck!
Trey
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
Indeed, POR15 doesn't bond well to clean metal. I used their prep (Marine Clean and Metal Ready) but I guess the steel was still too smooth for it. So if I ever get some more on day, I'll use it only as its name implies : Paint Over Rust. But with the euro value lowering, importing some from the UK makes it extremely expensive. Like 80€/$100 for a quart with shipping :/ Back when I bought some in 2010 the £ and the € were about equal. I doubt I'll get any before a while.
Brantho Korrux is 17.50€/$20 for 750ml and shipping is much lower. I bought two cans of black and a can of metallic grey which I hope will look good enough to replicate the bare metal appearance of some parts. According to the datasheet, it can be applied over light surface rust after any debris and scales have been removed.
I've cut the rust on the red notch this afternoon, what started as small holes ended up much bigger. These areas are rust nests ! I've cut as much as needed as metal was a bit thin underneath. But these are simple patch panels.
I'm not sure if there's supposed to be paint inside the frame rails but it was very flaky. I found only one spot on the frame rail that was a bit thin but it's too small to be a problem.
There's still one hole on the front passenger side toe panel and the cracks on the floor that are in need of attention. It's all I've found as far as rust is concerned.
Hopefully, the floor will be finished in a few days so I can put the interior back in.
Hi, I've received my Rockauto order :
So I went straight to the Vaquero notch and replaced the ignition wires, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor, and the fuel filter. I'm getting a very sharp white spark now. The firing order was wrong, put it back as it should be : 1342. Perfect. I then poured a bit of gas in the carb. It should at least pop once or twice right ? Yet, the engine wont start at all. I loosened the distributor and moved it a bit, no change.
Since I'm out of options, I'm thinking the timing is off.
I pulled everything in front of the timing cover, which has been removed too, showing a rather tired timing belt but it should be enough to move the car in the farm.
But now I'm stuck. The fan and water pump pulley wont budge (I removed the four bolts), as well as the crank pulley that looks like it needs a special tool to take off the big bolt.
Do you guys have a trick for these ?
Nevermind, I got the bolt out. I had to try a little harder. But the pulley doesn't move one bit :/ It's quite rusty down here.
The water pump pulley is loose but the fan still won't come out. I don't really like to pull too hard on it.
Probably need to get a rubber mallet and tap on the fan. They tend to get a little stuck over time.
1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.
2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup
So I've put the belt back in place but it seems like the ignition is off now. I'm getting some occasional "pops" in the exhaust, but mst of it is coming out of the carb. I even got a fire as I put a little bit of gas on the side of the carb...no damage, just a burnt loom.
The middle timing pulley engages the oil pump and distributor right ? From my research, the mark should be at the top (I can't see any mark on the back cover). That's how I set it.
I moved the distributor quite a bit but it didn't help.
67 Mustang Coupe
96 Tangerine GT
86 Saleen #179
Connect With Us