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  1. #251

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    I think it's a D9 bellhousing, it has the square bit where the cable goes through. I can't find a part number on it. Could it be on the bottom ? It's still covered with thick undercoating...


    The part number on the fork is D9BC-7515-BA :

  2. #252

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    I sent a pm to Xctasy to see if he would drop in and help out. I wasn't thinking about you not having a V8 in my earlier comments.

    Apparently replacements for non-V8 forks can be quite a pain in the butt! If nothing else, maybe a new retainer could be made from some spring steel and welded in?

  3. #253
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    From my records, purchased a D9ZZ-7515-C on 11/20/98 from Ford dealer.
    Still have the box.
    In it i found an old clutch fork D9BC-7515-BA. Same as pictured.
    Been a while.
    Assume i installed the new one and put the old in the box for times like this.
    The bell is a the one for a RAD trans that came with the 79 Turbo 2.3 engine.
    Since then, T5 was installed 10+ years ago, no changes to any parts in the bell.

    From what i gather, this D9ZZ-7515-C fork is the same as used with the 5.0.
    I cannot check the number stamp (is in car). Assume it was a match.
    Been searching for pics of the early 80's V8 fork stamping number.
    Pretty sure i measured and compared both before install.
    All i know is its been in there for 100,000+ miles no issues.

    another number have to check more into is one with a E6ZZ-7515-A stamping number.





    found on sites:
    D9BC-7515-BA known to fit D9ZC-6394-EA, E0ZR-6392-AA bell housings
    1979-81? 84? Ford Mustang GT V8 Factory Original Clutch Fork Part # D9ZC-7515-BA
    That stamp is usually an engineering number or one for the stamping before the spring parts were added.
    another:
    http://www.svoca.com/forum/archive/i...p/t-14653.html

  4. #254

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    It's quite confusing to say the least...
    So gr79, what you mean is the 5.0L fork is the same as this one ?

    I've found this in Germany : https://www.online-teile.com/ford-er...46196b0f75ede0
    And this one : https://www.der-ersatzteile-profi.de...hebel-a2978816
    Never heard about either websites so I'll look into it.

  5. #255
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Almost positive they are the same.
    Need to physically compare side by side to be sure.
    Stamping number, bearing spring shape, ball pivot end, clutch cable holes, overall arm arc.

    Info from the Rock Auto site shows many Fords use the same T/O bearing 1975-2004.

    When i get a chance, am going to do this, in a auto store, with a new store part for a 5.0.

    This one has very similar number interchange which includes old and newer Ford numbers:
    http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....430161&jsn=627
    The shape of the stamping cutout in the bearing area is a little different than the D9BC cutout.
    http://atpautomotive.com/clutch-fork...5#!prettyPhoto[media_gallery]/1/

    Really is a mystery why certain parts for 79-80 are the same as others but are not listed as so.
    May be minor differences but the fit and function are the same.
    I suppose with relatively few left, it is viewed as not cost effective remaking certain parts for them.
    Or bothering to compare and verify compatibility.
    Ford was known to use same parts across car lines when possible. Similar to Chrysler, not like GM.
    Last edited by gr79; 04-05-2017 at 11:50 AM.

  6. #256

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    I guess the problem is that there were five different engines in 1979, and at least two different four speed transmissions, it gets complicated to keep track. v

  7. #257

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    So the new fork should arrive this week.

    In the meantime, I kept working on the white Ghia. The exposed metal has been epoxy primed, doors got new bushings and pins and are installed back on (aaah the lovely feel of a tight door hinge), rear hatch removed for a proper clean up of the surface rust and priming, same for the bottom of the hood. I've found a nasty mouse nest in the insulation...mouse poop everywhere and a dead mouse included...yuck.
    Also the big dent on the passenger side quarter panel has been mostly straightened back, a small section was stretched too much so I cut it and patched it with a small piece of Firebird quarter panel :P Next I will apply some body filler to smooth it all out.








    The factory prep and paint is really poor, the whole top part of the hatch underside was unpainted, leading to some deep surface rust. Same for the bottom of the hood, very little primer and paint. Also, the paint must be single stage as it's easily wiped off with some thinner.
    I've already talked about the tiny rust spots starting all over the body, took me a while to get rid of them all. It would be silly to paint over that.

    By the way, the hatch hinges seem very loose, there is at least 1mm of play between the pin and the hinge, is it normal ?

  8. #258

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    Not with my hatch it's not. You might consider new hinges. But then again, I might be the odd one.

    You are getting a lot done brother, good job. I like your shop, btw.

  9. #259
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperDuty455
    I guess the problem is that there were five different engines in 1979, and at least two different four speed transmissions, it gets complicated to keep track. v


    Yes, Ford puts together American cars with, in your case,
    a German Cologne made 4-speed gearbox with a Sierra shifter,
    with a Brazillian Lima engine
    with an Italian style house badge
    with an Italian patent Weber carb by Holley,
    and adds French TRX tires
    on a British Cortina bolt spacing
    with an Adwest copy power steering unit from TRW.

    And everyone accuses the Americans of only being interested in there own workers?



    In any case, it makes its important to figure out which one of what variant your car has got, becasue some dummy will ask the question, sure as sure can be!





    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Almost positive they are the same.
    Need to physically compare side by side to be sure.
    Stamping number, bearing spring shape, ball pivot end, clutch cable holes, overall arm arc.

    Info from the Rock Auto site shows many Fords use the same T/O bearing 1975-2004.

    When i get a chance, am going to do this, in a auto store, with a new store part for a 5.0.

    This one has very similar number interchange which includes old and newer Ford numbers:
    http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....430161&jsn=627
    The shape of the stamping cutout in the bearing area is a little different than the D9BC cutout.
    http://atpautomotive.com/clutch-fork...5#!prettyPhoto[media_gallery]/1/

    Really is a mystery why certain parts for 79-80 are the same as others but are not listed as so.
    May be minor differences but the fit and function are the same.
    I suppose with relatively few left, it is viewed as not cost effective remaking certain parts for them.
    Or bothering to compare and verify compatibility.
    Ford was known to use same parts across car lines when possible. Similar to Chrysler, not like GM.


    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Not sure what variances Ford made on the 2.3 Tbirds...lots of changes were made when the EFI Turbo came out in three model ranges, Merkur, Mustang/Capri, and then the T birds variances frpm 83 to 87. Sometimes, like the small 4 cyli pilot bearing, Ford back tracted to lower tier FOG/ Himmer/Rocket German gearbox parts, so you ocassionally can't fit 5.0 forks to the earlier type of bellhousing.


    The US made stuff got US gearboxes, the European stuff got European gearboxes. Strating with the SR4 and T4, everything was straightned out to be interchangble with the 4 cylinder T5 and Mustang 5.0 shift parts.


    Ford then rolled out a further D9 variation for the 1979 model year to get some inerchangability happening.


    The std Fox Mustang 5.0 fork fits the D9 bell perfectly on all Mustangs and Pinto's that had D9 bellhousings, and the Pace Car's bellhousing mount is the same.





    D52A-7515-AC left, D4ZA-7515-B8 2nd from left, D8BC-7515-AC third from left, but only the Fox 5.0 fork , the forth from the left, will work


    This is the D9 pivot. It's 3 1/8" tall from the trans mounting face & is approximately 3/4" in from the edge of the trans. register hole




    That's the kind that works.


    Shamlesslly purlined pictures from fordpinto.com's Pinto5.0, Pinto Master!
    Confirming the roll out of a one size fits all clutch fork stamped D9 BC 7515-BA. The E6ZZ-7515-A will most likely have been varied to suit, related to that

    "Sometimes, like the small 4 cyli pilot bearing, Ford back tracted to lower tier FOG/ Himmer/Rocket German gearbox parts, so you ocassionally can't fit 5.0 forks to the earlier type of bellhousing"

    statement.

    8550capri stated that the later SVO nad T bird forks are known to have issues with a dogbone clutch lever prone to break, the earlier D9 5.0 usually works on everything, includingthe common D9ZC 6394 EA bellhousing some 2.3 's ran that year.

    Ford does try to make it simple sometimes! 1979 was it, everything Fox was the same.

    Then they went to a dogboned bellhousing,



    which is what the E6ZZ-7515-A uses, IIRC.


    L-o-n-g story short, D9 of any sort is whatcha want.

    Good fortune!

    Oh, and I'm just a sucker for a black Mondial with gold 308 GTB TRX wheels....http://www.2040-cars.com/_content/ca...307390/001.jpg

    Kýrie eléison.....

  10. #260

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    Again, thanks for the thorough information It means the fork that's coming should work fine.

    What's Kyrie Eleison ? To me it's a song from Mr Mister.

    The Ferrari is my brother's, he restored it last year. This car has a "funky" history, it was sold new in France in 1981 (originally silver with tan interior), then was shipped to Arizona, where it apparently crashed and got the upgraded front and rear bumpers, and painted red, and they swapped the engine for a QV with carbs, then it went back to France, got painted again at least five times, had the carbs replaced with a factory injection and sat for a while until he bought it non running very cheap three years ago. The problem was only a lack of power to the fuel pump...a wire from the fuse panel to the pump gave it a good 12V and it fired right off. He then drove it for two years, but got tired of the horrible paint (bubbles all over, scratches, obvious rust spots), so he stripped it all to bare metal...and that's where he found out there were at least fourteen coats of paints/clear/primers over the factory silver. He had to replace the passenger side door, and the driver side rocker panel.
    And now it's black with reproduction gold 16" rims (I sprayed the color). It looks so much better than it did in red. I don't care for red Ferraris in general. If it were mine, I'd have painted it dark metallic blue. It's sitting like that now because the reproduction rims are for a 308, and the front rims don't fit because of the caliper. He had to use spacers. Then he got the idea to try the rear rims on the front...they fit perfectly. So he bought a couple rear rims last week and the tires have just arrived.


    Too bad about the hatch hinges I wonder if I could replace the pin alone with a threaded rod or something strong.

  11. #261

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    I guess that's possible with the hinges. Why not? Drill the holes on the bracket so they're round. Get a piece of steel rod the right size and it should work. I don't remember if they have bushings though....

  12. #262
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    That is a good pic comparing forks.
    The 5.0 fork looks to have a larger pivot pocket stamped in it than the other versions.
    Larger pivot? Different height?
    A larger pivot would not fit in a smaller pocket as well as a smaller in a large pocket.
    Will also compare this when i get a chance prob this weekend.

    Sure is strange replacement clutch forks are made for 5.0 and nothing else.
    No v6, 6, 4. No Fairmont, tbird, mustang, capri, pinto, mustang II.
    All is said "go to junkyard or fix the old one".

    Anyhow, make sure to grease that pocket and pivot. Will eventually bind up there if dry.
    Then one of the retaining clips may break off. Had the factory one do that.
    Clicked every time the clutch was disengaged. Was cocked at an angle too.
    Made sure to tell the shop to re grease current fork #3 pocket when clutch was replaced while they were in there.

  13. #263

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    I've just received the clutch fork, it's nearly identical in the pivot/bearing area, but a little bit longer towards the cable, which shouldn't be a problem I think.



    Also, I've finally bought a three piece rear spoiler, shipped at an acceptable price. Still a lot more than what you guys usually pay for it : http://www.ebay.com/itm/401203685140#shpCntId

    And since I didn't like the chrome trim around the side windows, but didn't want to ruin them by painting them (they're in very good condition), I've tried wrapping them with matte black vinyl wrap. I'm really happy with the result, so I'll do all of them this way. It takes a bit of time but it looks really clean and it's removable.
    I'll keep the drip rail and upper door trim "chrome", the rear louvered trim and everything around the windows will be black. I think it makes the car less "bulky". There's on thing I really don't like about the early Fox is how strong the separation between the door and rear quarter windows is, they should have made them look like one piece and hide the pillars better IMO.

  14. #264

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    The box is back in and the car is finally drivable again ! I need to adjust the clutch cable though, and reinstall the interior.
    But another problem arised, the engine emits a ticking noise...and it seems to be coming from the bottom end. I've checked the oil level, it's a bit low. The engine IS tired, it smokes quite a bit (blue smoke) and needs a complete rebuild. I hope it will hold up until I start the bodywork, at which point I'll probably pull the engine and replace it. I've seen an ad for parts from a crashed EcoBoost Mustang...could be a very interesting project, not very legal though...

    Envoyé de mon E6653 en utilisant Tapatalk

  15. #265
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Postitive crank case ventilation valve baffels tick lik that. Clean out the idle jet, and make sure the hard to get to PCV baffle is clean and the spring is okay. I think that's where you'll get your tick from. Sometimes, its just a non standard dip stick hitting something.

    Oh, and I'm just a sucker for a black Mondial with gold 308 GTB TRX wheels....http://www.2040-cars.com/_content/ca...307390/001.jpg

    Kýrie eléison.....

    Have Mercy upon me/us, I'm just a sucker for a Black Fazz (Ferrari ), JPS Mustang, Black Magic Cat Capri...JPS GT5 Pantera






    Kýrie eléison = Have Mercy from Psalm 6/ Psalm 51, Old Testament , pre Ref and post Ref

    I'm ready to do a rap version,
    L0rd have mercy on US,
    that thing is so darn cool,
    copied a Black Magic Cat Capri...




    System Of A Down - Aerials

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-iepu3EtyE

    is based on Armeanian Orthodox Psalm 6 L0rd have mercy riff, lots more fun to drive hard to in a Ford product...

    Been there, done that in the snow in my Explorer...

  16. #266

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    Yes cars with gold wheels look pretty good in general He wanted to give it a more serious/racing tone to the car, like some 330P4 or 512BB that had gold rims.


    The 944 belongs to a friend.

    I've pretty much finished reshaping the passenger side quarter panel, straightened the best I could and used body filler to smooth it out. I'll see how it turns out with high build primer but it feels pretty good already. The green filler is fiberglass reinforced 2K filler, the yellow one is the usual polyester 2K filler.


    [img]https://farm3.staticflickr.com/2919/33385500934_b25989edbf_h.jpg[img]

    I've removed a bit of lead on the top of the quarter panel, as the factory junction was pretty bad with a big "bump".
    I'm working on the driver door right now, some work is needed where there were holes for the export mirrors and some minor issues around the door handle. Also I'll have to drill the holes for the upper door trim since the door I had bought didn't have them.

  17. #267
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    JPS Mustang https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqk18A-ibjA








    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    JPS used to have two in there garage too. The IRS made up for the fact that the Bemmer couldn't out do a worked 4-bbl 302 in a Group 2 race.







    The Mustang had a superb race history in the antipods
    http://www.nzmustang.com/Images/Hist...s/pinepac1.htm

  18. #268

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    Finally took the time to adjust the clutch cable and put the interior back together.
    But I can't seem to get a proper adjustement, the cable is tightened nearly to the max, and the pedal sits really high now, yet the clutch engages really high as well. Any ideas ? The fork has a slightly different angle, but it's very minor.

  19. #269
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Just readjusted mine saturday to get a higher pedal.
    Had slack in the cable so the pedal engagement was too close to floor for me.
    Turning the lock nuts further in toward the cable raises the engagement point.

    All the way in would place the engagement point real high pedal wise.
    The more the cable is tightened, the higher the clutch engagement point.

    Should be 2 nuts. One locks the other. The one nearest the fork is rounded on one end.

    Back it down 1/2 way to the end and try that.
    Or leave a little cable slack and try that. Or tighten out slack and a little more and try that.
    That is about mid point clutch pedal travel engagement on mine.
    The clutch disengages somewhere 1/2 way from the floor to brake pedal.

    Cable is over 10y old, so it is prob stretched more than a new one, affecting adjustment a little.
    Adjustment settings vary according to parts used, wear level, etc.
    Last edited by gr79; 05-18-2017 at 04:41 PM.

  20. #270

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    You were right, I've untightened it up to 2/3rs of the threads and it's just right. Pedal course is short and on the same level as the brake pedal.
    I've replaced the trunk weatherstripping as well, it was leaking. I used a 3rd gen F-Body convertible gasket that I bought by mistake ages ago, very similair profile. It was about 25cm too long but it fits perfectly.

    The car drives beautifully, but there a bearing noise at the rear at certain speeds, the speedo needle bounces from 0 to about 70km/h, then it stabilizes, and I feel the rear end a bit "loose", probably the shocks which are done. The temperature gauge doesn't work either, it used to work though.

    So I'm going to drive it everyday now. I've put the wheels of the white hatch on it so the tires are pretty good. I need to replace the H4 headlights that were installed at some point, they're full of water ! Got some new sealed beams in my previous Rockauto order.
    She doesn't look all that great with rust spots everywhere, dents and a difference color nose but hey, I love driving odd cars.

  21. #271

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    Driving them is what it's all about. They're fun cars. Glad you get to have a little enjoyment out of it before the next big teardown.

  22. #272

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    Yeah it's fun, despite the lack of power. The engine is tired too, but it moves the car :P
    I've installed the US mirrors, looks so much better. They're tiny though.
    Another problem arose, the engine mounts must be bad, the engine shakes quite a bit at idle, and I can feel vibrations in the accelerator pedal.

  23. #273

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    Just back from a trip to Lille with the red notch, the furthest I've been so far with it. No issue at all, but I had to pour a little bit of gasoline in the carb before starting each time after it sat. Other than that it's good on gas, I've calculated 8L/100km, which is about 33-35MPG, mostly highway at 110kph and country roads at 80-90kph. Didn't feel too good about going faster due to the age of the tires (I've installed the wheels of the white Ghia, very nice tires but old).

    The white Ghia is nearly ready for paint. Only have to paint the black parts around the windows and on the bumper covers and then I'll apply the paint...
    But I've changed my mind, it won't be white but blue !
    Estoril Blue from BMW actually. White is a bit too generic, I want a color that values the sharp lines of the car. Also the chrome accents are hard to see on a white paint.
    The paint and clear are on the way and should come next week.








    Despite the good condition of the car, many little issues, some from the factory, others due to lack of car, took me a while to finish. But now it's over !

    Here is the color I've chosen, it's similar to the Bright Regatta Blue from 1988, but more modern with a touch of purple. I'll add the Cobra side stripes in the base coat by mixing the blue to some Ford Frozen White I've bought with it :

  24. #274
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    liberté, fraternité, and égalité, Mon'Amie.

    Um, the Notch...you find some poor guy with a Ferrari who wants to offload his Speedline 390mm or 415 mm étoiles. Mainly because the complain about the cost....

    I know the owner of the Black Fazz wants his now its detailed....but if you found the Speedline or Ruote Borrani 415 mms, or Cromodora 16" Ferrari rims, they would work on your Red Fox notch.



    There is the 16" x 8" Superformance wheel, the Mondial 16 inch 2x7” & 2x 8” wheel set of four MON20009, quite cheap.





    For front wheels, the tire size must come in under 654 mm if you use the stock inner fender liner and pre 1991 gaurd size, but you can go up to 677 mm if you use the Lincoln LSC or Mark VII, or SN95, or...none!

    See http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...kinnies!/page2

    BMW Rider got it nailed http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...86#post1768886



    From the Ferrari guys...

    Bridgestone Potenza RE960 Pole Position Tire.....225/60R-16 / W speed rating (168mph)

    Michelin Pilot Sport A/S Plus...........................225/60ZR-16 / Z speed rating (149+mph)

    Goodyear Eagle GT.......................................225/60R-16 / V speed rating (149mph)


    At the back, I love my 235/60 R 16's, 686 mm tall. I went to Continental ContiCrossContact UHP 235/60 R16 100H "Sommerreifen" to replace the Pirelli Scorpion Zero Street/Sport Truck All-Season tires I've used for the last 6 years.


    The four on 108 mm Ford stud pattern is the same as the 5 on 108 mm Ferrari pattern, 108 mm. Just the studs are repitched.

    You knock out three studs, and bolt the 5th Ferrari stud to the 4th Ford stud, then redrill the hub to 5 on 108 mm with four new holes.

    Here is a redrilled VW running a five stud wheel on four stud.



    You can use the 4 th Ford stud to locate the other four, and then mig weld the holes with cut off studs to fill the gaps.


    Its called Drill and Fill.


    After the brief sojurn into 112 inch five studs on the Granada, all the bigger Fords are 5 on 108 mm again....the years old Ferrari and Volvo stud patterns.


    That might give you some better options.

    The Ferrari Speedlines can found cheaply,

    From another French member here,

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...re-wheel-issue
    Quote Originally Posted by TuxStang View Post
    There's no way a 15" tire can fit a 390mm rim ... despite the size, the problem is the tire bed which is specific.
    About machining TRX rim to 15", i've asked and was told there's not enough material to do it safe.

    Too bad TRX is not in the tag search ... there's a bunch of threads.

    TuxStang found that BMW, Citroen, Peugoet (and from my experience with the early 80's BMW's and Feugo and R18, Renault rims ) aren't a problem to grind down, although sometimes TIG welding a bead is a good idea.


    This is how strokerstang86 did it



    For all the Ford TRX rims, all eight types,

    For a full Ford list 1 to 8 o 1977 to 1985 rims, see

    1. #1154




    2. #1158




    3. #1309




    4. #1350




    5. #1238




    6. German Granada Ghia MkII





    7. Australian Ford LTD FD and perhaps the Snowflake XE Fairmont Ghia rims




    8.

    Unlike the French and Italian designs, all the Ford TRX's had too much metal taken out at the rim to allow a regrind down to 15" safely unless you weld out side the rim to create some extra metal.

    Ferrari rims have the same alloy thickness as the BMW, Citroen, Peugoet and Renault rims, as the makers Cromodora (exclusively 16", I think), Speedline also did other TRX specials for the PSA group.

    The standard JJ safety rim profile from my 16" rims, transferred to the TRX 415 tire profile.

    I got some 240/55 VR 415's from a Ferrari 400i, a common tire offloaded in tire shops here in New Zealand. The 235/60 R 16 is a good match, for the fronts of Foxes, the 225/60 R16 is better.






  25. #275

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    The gold rims on my brothers Mondial are actually the Superformance rims ! He originally bought the 16x7 front and 16x8 rear rims...but the offset is wrong on the 16x7" for the Mondial, the brake caliper is in the way and with the spacer they stick out too much. He had to buy a pair of 16x8 since they fit perfectly.
    Sucks about the Ford TRX rims having too little material, it would have made things much simpler for us. I really like the 1158 ones.

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