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  1. #276
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    1158's are my all time faves...first of all, they were born 220/55 390 on the Thunderbird, then stayed that way for 1983 on the CC Mercury Capri





    Fords biggest mistake was not going 415 when everyone else was...but that was because law emforcement said yes to 351 LTD's and Mustang 5.0 Notches....none of them had the 415 wheels, as they had to be steel to cope with mounting curbs at 80 mph.

    I can't see how a set of 240/55 vr 415's with steel rims on a 165 HP 5.8 Slab-Sided Yawn Fest wouldn't have been English for impressionnant. A 3 star Michelin rating from me...







    Ah well. Its just tires and wheels.

  2. #277

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    Big update guys, I'm done with the prep for good ! Now it's just color, here's the first parts painted black :






    I then masked them off, and applied a thin coat of white primer where I didn't want black since I'm afraid it could show through under the basecoat.

  3. #278

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    And finally, the blue ! What a striking color So far from the dull white that it was originally painted









    Now I have to get the brakes parts reinstalled, the engine back in, all the body back together, and I will proceed with the exterior paint !

  4. #279
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Looks very nice. I like the color choice. Can't wait to see more!
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  5. #280

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    Very nice!

  6. #281

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    I really like that color, can't wait to see the body shot.

  7. #282

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    There it is finally ! Not perfect but I think it looks terrific in this color :










    Now I need to reassemble it, sand and polish the clear !

  8. #283
    FEP Super Member 82GTforME's Avatar
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    That looks great!! Is that a painted on stripe down the side? Can you show it better? I'm really looking forward to seeing it together now.

    Is it recommended to do the black first on the bumper covers before the color and clear? Or is it just personal preference?
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    I think this is my favorite car on the site right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI
    This is the best thread on the internet.
    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) T-Top GT RestoMod:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...other-79-Coupe!

  9. #284

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    Great work

  10. #285

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    Thanks ! Yes the stripes are painted, didn't want to buy the decals. The shipping is too expensive for such a small package (I had the experience with the decals of my Trans Am). It was much cheaper to just buy 1L of Ford Frozen White paint, mix it with the blue and paint them before applying the entire base :


    I don't know if it's recommended to paint the black first or not, but this is how it was made at the factory. All parts had a black primer applied before paint.

  11. #286

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    I'm looking forward to seeing the reassembled pictures. You've put a lot of work into your mustangs, it's got to be satisfying to see this one painted.

  12. #287

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    Oh yes, very !

    I will have to repaint the hood though, I'm not sure what went wrong in the base coat. Not enough air or not enough thinner. It looks rough and it's a bit cloudy. So it doesn't look good. I've sanded the whole surface with 600 grit, I'll do it with 1000 next and paint tomorrow.
    I'm surprised by this clear coat, it's a HS clear and dried very quick. I could cut and buff two days after.

  13. #288

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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperDuty455 View Post
    Oh yes, very !

    I will have to repaint the hood though, I'm not sure what went wrong in the base coat. Not enough air or not enough thinner. It looks rough and it's a bit cloudy. So it doesn't look good. I've sanded the whole surface with 600 grit, I'll do it with 1000 next and paint tomorrow.
    I'm surprised by this clear coat, it's a HS clear and dried very quick. I could cut and buff two days after.
    What paint line are you using?

  14. #289

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    The brand is T4W, it appears to be from Poland. I've been using APP brand from Poland previously and I've been very happy with it.

    I want to glue the rear window back, and I was thinking about using Butyl since it's much easier to apply than windshield glue. But it's much more expensive than I thought. What is the appropriate diameter that I should use ?
    Or is there a windshield glue that would be easier to apply ? I had a lot of trouble applying the glue for the windshield of my Trans Am, a special tool is required.

  15. #290

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    Car is now mostly reassembled, I still need to secure the upper door trims. Only problem is I can't reuse the little plastic things that go into each hole, the clips are fine but the holes thing desintegrate when I try to remove them. Any idea where I could find them ?

    Also, any tips on how to remove the foam tape remains on the body side moldings ? That stuff is strong.

    I'll glue the rear window soon, interior is all back together, I need to finish the cut and buff, and install new parts/gaskets before it's back on the road !







  16. #291

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    Jeez that's pretty!

    If you can soak the mouldings in wax and grease remover for a while, that'll soften up the tape enough to get it off the moulding.

  17. #292
    FEP Super Member 82GTforME's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SuperDuty455 View Post
    Car is now mostly reassembled, I still need to secure the upper door trims. Only problem is I can't reuse the little plastic things that go into each hole, the clips are fine but the holes thing desintegrate when I try to remove them. Any idea where I could find them ?
    Your car is looking fantastic!! I can't wait to see the final product!!

    As for the parts you need to reattach the door moulding; you are in luck as they are available through Late Model Restoration

    They are called barrel nuts. There is bunch of info here for your reading pleasure: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ghlight=barrel

    If you just want the part, go here:

    http://www.foxresto.com/product-p/2279008.htm

    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    I think this is my favorite car on the site right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI
    This is the best thread on the internet.
    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) T-Top GT RestoMod:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...other-79-Coupe!

  18. #293

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    Looks really nice, great work!
    -Randy
    '83 Mustang GL notchback - 3.8 C5
    '92 Mustang LX hatchback - 2.3 T5 (2.3t soon)

  19. #294
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    Looks amazing. Fantastic progress. I love the way that blue turned out.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
    2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
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  20. #295

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    There we are, it only needs a few minor things :




    Here's the inside of the gas tank. I had the fuel pump die on me when adjusting the timing. So I had to get a new one. I've installed it, still no fuel at the carb. Checked the line, replaced all rubber hoses, opened the gas tank to check the condition, all perfect. I poured a glass of fuel in the tank, and it finally ran fine. :



    But it doesn't run right. It will hesitate, backfire, lose power,...impossible to drive above 2000rpm. At idle, or when the car is stopped, it's mostly fine, though it does hesitate a bit above 2000rpm. So I don't know what's wrong ? Timing not adjusted right maybe ? I did check that yesterday. Bad float in the carb ? Dirty/plugged carb (I have a rebuild kit) ? It worked perfectly before the restoration.

    Ignition is all new :
    - coil
    - spark plugs have 500kms on them
    - spark plug wires
    - rotor and cap

    New fuel delivery
    - fuel pump
    - fuel filter has less than 500kms
    - fuel hoses

    New engine and transmission oil and filters
    The fluid level in the transmission is good.

  21. #296
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The Mustang looks Spectacular! Congrats on getting it done! I can completely appreciate all the work, time, and money that goes into a project like that.

    I really like the color too!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
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  22. #297
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Check fuel pressure.

    Scope the ignition. The old Sun Anaylser does it. New digital Class V multi meters allow you to check the ignition.


    Check the hydraluic The lifters by doing a cold cranking compression test. Its very common for Fords to be very hard on valve springs. They offten don't meet the requires seat and wide open kN force (lb/in).

    and the idle jets (clean them out...all Fords Weber and Holley Webers were prone to getting particulates into the jets).

    Then check back pressure in the exhaust.

    Sometimes, its just a clogged catalyst or something that has gone off as a result of age.

    The fuel lines are common failure points. The old Taunus OHC's and V6's had fuel line issues....so does the Fox Mustang.

  23. #298

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    Thanks wraithracing

    xctasy : The is no catalytic converter on my car, fuel lines are perfect all along, but the rubber hoses I replaced are a little too large so I had to overtighten them a bit so they fit perfect. No leak.
    As for valve springs, that seems a bit weird. The engine worked flawlessly before the restoration. The last time it ran was around september 2016. I didn't do anything to it except clean it with a pressure washer when it was out.
    Being a carb, it should need much fuel pressure right ? How much would be needed ?

    I will double check the ignition advance.

  24. #299

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    Nice job. Car looks great.

  25. #300
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Check fuel pressure.

    Scope the ignition. The old Sun Anaylser does it. New digital Class V multi meters allow you to check the ignition.


    Check the hydraluic The lifters by doing a cold cranking compression test. Its very common for Fords to be very hard on valve springs. They offten don't meet the requires seat and wide open kN force (lb/in).

    and the idle jets (clean them out...all Fords Weber and Holley Webers were prone to getting particulates into the jets).

    Then check back pressure in the exhaust.

    Sometimes, its just a clogged catalyst or something that has gone off as a result of age.

    The fuel lines are common failure points. The old Taunus OHC's and V6's had fuel line issues....so does the Fox Mustang.
    Oh, its the 2.8 V6...SORRY!


    The earth to the ignition and battery and the condition of the wires to the Duraspark are the things to look at. The lifters on the 2.8 are solid, no issues with it. Valve springs should be okay. A simple check of the ignition and its condition is the first thing. New parts aren't always the same, especially sice the 2.8 is a unique ignition with US parts on a Bosch style Cologne spigot.

    The 2150 Motorcraft 2-bbl is very good, but the power valve seal can leak, and if air fuel is off, idle and under load Carbon Dioxide numbers can find the engine running rich. The well tubes can crack in the K cluster if the fuel system has been emptied.

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