Thinking of swapping out my hurst shift handle for a steeds tri ax handle so I have more shift knob options. Can I just push the boot down far enough to get to the shifter bolts or do I have to remove the console?
Thinking of swapping out my hurst shift handle for a steeds tri ax handle so I have more shift knob options. Can I just push the boot down far enough to get to the shifter bolts or do I have to remove the console?
1984.5 GT 5.0 5 Speed ANALOG
BBK Long Tubes/H pipe/FM
Edelbrock Intake/Holley 600
8.8 w/FMS 3.73s
Steeda Shifter
2010 GT 5 Speed DIGITAL
Track Pack
Pypes Violator axle back
Airaid Cold Air
Anyone? Bueller?
1984.5 GT 5.0 5 Speed ANALOG
BBK Long Tubes/H pipe/FM
Edelbrock Intake/Holley 600
8.8 w/FMS 3.73s
Steeda Shifter
2010 GT 5 Speed DIGITAL
Track Pack
Pypes Violator axle back
Airaid Cold Air
The problem is with the upper right most bolt is a little hard to get to with the console in place
Usually I just move it out of the way, is only a few screws. It takes five minutes.
Hope this helps..
Original Member of 'The Anti-Cowl Hood Club' and 'The Ten-Hole Mafia'.
I would remove the console to keep from damaging the boot
1984.5 GT 5.0 5 Speed ANALOG
BBK Long Tubes/H pipe/FM
Edelbrock Intake/Holley 600
8.8 w/FMS 3.73s
Steeda Shifter
2010 GT 5 Speed DIGITAL
Track Pack
Pypes Violator axle back
Airaid Cold Air
1984.5 GT 5.0 5 Speed ANALOG
BBK Long Tubes/H pipe/FM
Edelbrock Intake/Holley 600
8.8 w/FMS 3.73s
Steeda Shifter
2010 GT 5 Speed DIGITAL
Track Pack
Pypes Violator axle back
Airaid Cold Air
To change out the shift lever (bolts only):
Just take the console plate out and then upper boot?
I leave the upper boot unfastened to avoid extra work.
Worth a little extra work to pull the boot off, insuring it stays intact.
Free access to bolts is best to go a good job getting them off and on tightly.
The console is no big deal if you find all the screws, but avoid this if possible.
Nothing will crack in half or break if handled gently.
The hand brake trim plate, inner storage plate, and ash tray need to be removed to access screws.
The whole console does not need to come out unless upper boot is screwed down and cannot access fasteners.
Lifting and propping it straight up while loose may be enough to get in there and unbolt boot.
Changed out a shift lever once in a swap meet parking lot.
Could not wait to use it!
Last edited by gr79; 05-03-2015 at 11:09 AM.
That's what I was kind of hoping-to be able to pop the trim around the leather boot and just pull the boot up. Can someone verify if it's bolted down?
1984.5 GT 5.0 5 Speed ANALOG
BBK Long Tubes/H pipe/FM
Edelbrock Intake/Holley 600
8.8 w/FMS 3.73s
Steeda Shifter
2010 GT 5 Speed DIGITAL
Track Pack
Pypes Violator axle back
Airaid Cold Air
The boot is bolted down. Your best bet is to pull the console.
1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.
2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup
Pull the console and just be careful about it. It takes less than 5 minutes. You won't be able to get to all 4 boot bolts if you don't.
Console: 2 screws that hold brake lever trim, 4 screws inside console, 2 screws under ashtray. That's it. Lift it up and set it down on the passenger floor board being careful with the wiring. you shouldn't have to disconnect the wiring.
2011 Mustang GT Track Day car
1985 Mustang Dominator GT
Previous cars:
1979 Mustang 5.0 upgraded to a 351W (1987 - 1991)
1985 Black Mustang GT Dominator T-Top (bought from Bluesfannoz In 1992 sold in 1993 RIP)
1990 Mustang GT Titanium hardtop w/black leather (1993 - 1994)
2004 Mustang GT w/a few bolt ons 255 RWHP (2004 - 2006)
1985 Mustang GT Medium Canyon Red Factory Sunroof 32,000 miles - Sold to the right person (2013 - 2016)
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