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  1. #26

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    Hmm, heat related could point to the PIP sensor in the dizzy. When those go out, you will get intermittent spark cutout that can be clearly seen on the tach which will drop like you turned off the ignition switch and suddenly pop back on. This will continue to get worse over a short period of time until the engine won't relight until it cools back off again, where it will then repeat the same dance all over again...ask me how I know! When the PIP goes, it can sometimes kill the TFI module as well, but not always. To change the PIP you have to pull the drive gear off the main shaft of the dizzy, which can usually be performed by a local auto repair shop for $10-20, if you supply the new PIP.

    Speaking of grounds...forgot to mention that as well...make sure you have the proper ground wire going to the turbo's inlet elbow mounting screws, which should be an orange wire. Lack of these has caused some 'issues' with some folks' engines in the past.
    Ted
    86 SVO Mustang
    17 Cooper S Clubman ALL4

  2. #27

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    I've heard about the PIP but wasn't sure where to look. I'll add that to the list of things to fix.

    So I got my TPS in the mail yesterday. Got the wrong damn TPS. The correct one should be here in a few days, I'll probably pick it up again after that.

    Thanks again for y'all help.

  3. #28

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    Well... Got the new TPS on there. It was doing the "idle like crap and misfire a bunch" thing, almost seemed like a vacuum leak except vacuum was correct. Still bogs if I floor it, although it does seem to scoot a lot better with the new TPS.

    Tried to get the codes but the test plug is all messed up so I'm going to have to do it from the ECU.

    Noticed that when it misfires it 'spits' a bit of black/blue smoke out. I know the turbo is leaking oil in the hot side, but the compressor is clean and there isn't any oil in the throttle body, so I don't think it's the turbo leaking that's causing the misfire. Also doesn't seem like it's a fuel pressure problem, since the pressure looks fine and %80 of the fuel is flying out of the tailpipe without getting burned.

    Speaking of burned, I'm getting a little burned out. Not giving up yet though. I'll see if I can get the ECU codes this weekend.

    Man, why did I buy this stupid truck? It's more cursed than a mummy's tomb full of broken mirrors and burned crosses. If I ever get it fixed, the demons it would release would bring a new era of misery to the planet.

  4. #29

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    Turns out I'm moving tomorrow, (long story) but I'll get back to this next week. Going to try TFI and PIP next, or even just throwing a whole new distributor down in there because I'm a lazy ass and I'm sick of the whole stupid thing.

  5. #30
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    With all due respect you aren't going to have much luck or much fun with this complicated engine swap and your lack of mechanical interest. This setup is best for someone who likes to tinker and tune a turbo engine. You'll need to learn about the systems. And it will always be somewhat finicky. If you are looking for a simple no nonsense hot rod then you might consider a V8 swap for your Ranger. I'm not saying give up, but your current approach doesn't offer much optimism for success. Like I said don't mean any disrespect, in fact I'm just being honest with you. Good luck!
    Last edited by PaceFever79; 03-27-2015 at 08:00 AM.

  6. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79 View Post
    Like I said don't mean any disrespect, in fact I'm just being honest with you. Good luck!
    No worries, I appreciate the honesty and that's a good point. I was thinking about that a bit myself - I think it's just that the rest of life got pretty stressful and for some reason I've funneled that into my cars and that's been keeping me from doing things properly. I normally do enjoy tinkering and tuning on turbo cars, but my approach with this thing the last few weeks has been more of a 'just swap stuff on and hope it magically gets better' thing, and you're right - that's not likely to get me anywhere.

    So I think I'm going to put this thing away for a few weeks. By then I'll have a better place to work on it than a parking lot and life will have calmed down a bit, and then hopefully I can either start over and figure the whole thing out or decide to move on to something else.

    Thanks for all the help, you guys have been one of the best forum groups I've dealt with

  7. #32

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    Finally got the codes to pull! 23, 28, 54, 66, 81, 82, 83, 84. (wow)

    Fixed 28 and 66 by fixing some wiring, it seems.
    And... surprise, now I can floor it. *facepalm* So I owe someone some beer, and I intend to deliver. Check your inbox within the next month.

    Going to go get the TPS set correctly and see how that goes. And I'm not going to buy another part unless I can conclusively prove it's broken.

    Next week I intend to make sure every sensor is wired to the correct pin and reporting correctly. I figure once the sensors are all good, the timing is correct, the fuel pressure is right, compression is okay, injectors are tested, crank timing is correct, and all the battery/ground connections are right, then I can't think of a reason it shouldn't run. If it's still having massive problems at that point, I'll hand in my SVO owner badge and go back to something easy and boring. Thanks again for the help and encouragement.

  8. #33

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    Well, it's officially working! Adjusted the TPS and got rid of code 23. Idles fine, revs fine. Occasional very slight stutter (still wondering if TFI/PIP are on their way out) but totally driveable. A little slow, probably due to the hot weather + no intercooler + only 6psi of boost.

    For anyone that comes chasing this problem: turned out to be VAF/VAT wires reversed, bad TPS, bad ground to the ECU, and a bunch of other wiring problems. If I have one piece of advice, it has to be: CHECK THE @#$*&ing CODES! There is no other way you can know what the ECU is thinking. Even if you've checked all the wiring, all the sensors, in the end it's what the ECU is whining about that makes the difference. My biggest mistake was assuming that since the CEL was off, the ECU thought all was well. Turns out the CEL is broken, doesn't light at all - only way I could know was checking it manually.

    Thanks again for your patience and all the advice. Sorry I didn't listen more closely when y'all told me to pull the codes. I'm serious about the beer, so give me a month or so to move into my new place and get a little more stable, and then I'll be needing some mailing addresses.

  9. #34
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Glad you made some progress!

  10. #35

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    Awesome, glad you got it figured out!!

    I laughed so hard over that mummys toumb stuff Im glad i didnt have a beer! It would have likely been all over my monitor!

    I will gladly send you some beer in return.. plenty of it out here the craft brew scene has blown up.. and I'm reaping all the benefits!

  11. #36

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    Haha thanks! I'll have to see what kind of beer we have here in Utah, not sure what's good.

    I'm just glad I finally understand how the crazy electronics on this thing work, to an extent. Unfortunately now it knocks under light load from about 2000rpm upward. (can't hear it at WOT but probably knocks then too) Octane boost and retard don't seem to change it, so I think it's a rod/pin/slap of some kind. *sigh*. Getting quotes from some local shops for a bottom end rebuild, I'd do it myself but all I have is a half driveway. Or maybe I could find a good short block somewhere.

    I would just get rid of it and move on, but I'm pretty attached now. Nothing quite feels the same as roasting tires on a bone-stock looking ranger.

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