Clutch Won't Release...

[Black97Tbird]

I wonder if the Advanced Auto parts uses the cores of Valeo clutches, then adds cheaper clutch materials.

I dont know about them, but I can verify the autozone ones are definitely not re-cored FRPP units. The FRPP unit was visibly different/better than the autozone unit for my 96. The pressure plate was also visibly stronger and better from FRPP. Of course, for $100 disc/plate/bearing set, what do you expect?

Tom

[Autolite]

Any updates on this ?

At this point the car has a new clutch kit installed, new clutch fork and pivot ball and a new aftermarket three-hook aluminum quadrant. Everything went back together well and the clutch seems to be releasing fine but the T5 still does not go into gear easily. I'm guessing the clutch cable itself might be slightly stretched (as others have already pointed out) but there is far more than enough cable adjustment available with the three-hook quadrant and the firewall adjuster to compensate for this.

The car's not running right now because I'm waiting on a part for the carburetor. I can't say for sure when I'll be able to give it a proper test drive because my yard is currently a swamp due to the spring thaw. Hopefully everything should dry up before the end of August...

[Autolite]

Further to previous post #27, the new clutch kit installed was a 'LUK Rep Set 07042' (10.5"). The kit came with a new pilot bearing. The trick to removing the old pilot bearing is of course to pack the recess in the end of the crankshaft with grease (to create a hydraulic lock) and then drive a dowel of some sort through the bearing inner race. The hydraulic lock created by the grease will then force the bearing out.

I have somewhere a universal clutch alignment kit with an assortment of adapters that are designed to fit the inner race of various pilot bearings. However, I haven't used my alignment kit in years and I have no idea where I last put it. I found that using a 'Mastercraft 12mm 3/8 Drive Deep Socket' works great for removing the pilot bearing on a Ford 5.0!

I know that for many of you using a 3/8 drive socket to remove the pilot bearing might be common knowledge, but I thought I'd pass on the idea in case some of you don't. This particular socket has an OD of .670" and was an absolute perfect fit for the job...

(I used a 7/8 deep socket to easily install the new pilot bearing)

[grabbergreen84]

the T5 still does not go into gear easily.

You didn't use gear oil in it did you? That will make them hard to shift.

[Autolite]

You didn't use gear oil in it did you? That will make them hard to shift.

"Mobile One" synthetic ATF.

The previous owner said that the clutch and transmission were working fine but the car had been sitting outside (unmoved) for about 12 years since...

(Actually, I did a 'run-up' before installing the drive shaft and the transmission went through all the gears fine . It seemed harder to shift only after I installed the drive shaft and tried driving the car)

[Black97Tbird]

[QUOTE=Autolite;1720749]Further to previous post #27, the new clutch kit installed was a 'LUK Rep Set 07042' (10.5"). The kit came with a new pilot bearing. The trick to removing the old pilot bearing is of course to pack the recess in the end of the crankshaft with grease (to create a hydraulic lock) and then drive a dowel of some sort through the bearing inner race. The hydraulic lock created by the grease will then force the bearing out.

I have somewhere a universal clutch alignment kit with an assortment of adapters that are designed to fit the inner race of various pilot bearings. However, I haven't used my alignment kit in years and I have no idea where I last put it. I found that using a 'Mastercraft 12mm 3/8 Drive Deep Socket' works great for removing the pilot bearing on a Ford 5.0!

I know that for many of you using a 3/8 drive socket to remove the pilot bearing might be common knowledge, but I thought I'd pass on the idea in case some of you don't. This particular socket has an OD of .670" and was an absolute perfect fit for the job...

(I used a 7/8 deep socket to easily install the new pilot bearing)

I used the old bread trick in my 96 - The funny thing is that I was just about to give up, when I decided to go 'one more time' and it began to move. But overall it does work.

Tom

[Autolite]

I used the old bread trick in my 96 - The funny thing is that I was just about to give up, when I decided to go 'one more time' and it began to move. But overall it does work. Tom

Okay, you got me! What's the 'old bread trick'???

[Black97Tbird]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhPFXJ4VYcM

Sorry I haven't been on in a few days

Tom

[Autolite]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vhPFXJ4VYcM

Sorry I haven't been on in a few days

Tom

Yeah, I since Googled it myself. I guess it might be an option if you haven't got any grease handy. What works best? White or whole wheat???

[Autolite]

Well my yard is still too muddy with the spring thaw so I am not yet able to drive the Mustang, but I decided to block the rear wheels off the ground and run the transmission through the gears.

The T5 goes in-and-out of all the forward gears fine but it grinds getting it into reverse! I Googled "T5 grinding in reverse" and it seems to be a common issue. They're telling me that reverse is not synchronized on a T5 but I'm not sure if they're talking about a WC T5 or a NWC T5 or both.

Some are even saying that this is 'normal' for a pre-'92* T5 with the fix being to first select a fwd gear for a few seconds (with the clutch disengaged) before selecting reverse. Is this indeed common practice for the T5?

PS: The transmission was drained and filled with 'Mobile One' Synthetic ATF

*(Apparently there was an upgrade for '92 and up that resolved the 'grinding in reverse' issue on the T5)

[grabbergreen84]

Try putting it in 2nd, and then into reverse holding the clutch down the whole time.

[Autolite]

Try putting it in 2nd, and then into reverse holding the clutch down the whole time.

Yes, I've read the same thing. Based on what you and others have been saying, I can then assume that the 'grinding in reverse' issue is a common and known glitch with the older T5's and should be nothing to get overly concerned about, right???

[Jack Hidley]

Virtually no cars have sychronized reverse gear setups. Most of them are straight cut gears also. This is done to save money and as a safety feature.

The 1992+ T5 has a countershaft brake. When the shifter is moved from one of the gears into reverse, there is a small brake that stops the countershaft from spinning making it easier to get into reverse. I don't know if this brake assembly is retrofittable to an earlier transmission. It is completely normal to have to put the transmission into a forward gear before putting it into reverse. When the clutch is in, the synchro becomes the brake and stops the countershaft from spinning making it easier to put it in reverse. If this makes it harder to put into reverse, then your clutch is not disengaging completely.

[Autolite]

It is completely normal to have to put the transmission into a forward gear before putting it into reverse. When the clutch is in, the synchro becomes the brake and stops the countershaft from spinning making it easier to put it in reverse. If this makes it harder to put into reverse, then your clutch is not disengaging completely.

Thanks, it's good to know that this is normal.

In any case I want to say thanks to everybody for all the help, advice, the interesting information and the suggestions. The car is still up on blocks, and there is still a ton of work left to do, but it seems at least that the transmission and clutch issues have now been rectified. The clutch seems to be working fine and the transmission goes though all the gears 'normally'.

Many thanks again. All the help is most appreciated!