Clutch Won't Release...

[Autolite]

I was having clutch trouble with an 1986 5.0 Mustang LX and replaced the factory plastic clutch quadrant with an aluminum billet triple hook unit. The new aluminum clutch quadrant seems to be working fine but the clutch itself will still not fully release.

The clutch and pressure plate is a Ford factory unit and it is installed on a 1982 5.0 engine. The transmission is a 1988 Borg Warner T5.

I removed the clutch but there doesn't seem to be any damage to the clutch, the pressure plate, the release bearing or the clutch fork. The transmission removal itself was easy and nothing seemed to be misaligned or binding. Does anyone have any ideas what might be wrong or if I perhaps might have missed something that would have caused the clutch not to release?

I'm at a loss right now as to what is causing the 'won't-release' problem and I'm thinking the solution might be to just replace the Ford factory clutch with a LUK aftermarket unit...

[83gtstang]

Is the cable an adjustable cable? Or are you using a firewall adjuster? Are you using the factory non adjustable cable?

[Autolite]

Is the cable an adjustable cable? Or are you using a firewall adjuster? Are you using the factory non adjustable cable?

The clutch cable itself is the original Ford factory non-adjustable cable, I installed the aluminum firewall adjustment unit that came with the aftermarket three-hook aluminum clutch quadrant. The clutch cable is currently set to the 'centre' hook of the three hook aluminum clutch quadrant.

Also, the clutch disc itself is marked "Valeo". I read something about Valeo clutches being a problem...

[83gtstang]

Ok so basically you push the clutch pedal to the floor and the car jumps forward as if the clutch is out? The clutch cable doesn't stay on the floor does it? I would try the last hook on the quadrant, the one that puts the most tension on the cable. You didn't have any issues until your plastic quadrant broke correct? Valeo was the old king cobra clutch if I'm not mistaken.

[Autolite]

Ok so basically you push the clutch pedal to the floor and the car jumps forward as if the clutch is out? The clutch cable doesn't stay on the floor does it? I would try the last hook on the quadrant, the one that puts the most tension on the cable. You didn't have any issues until your plastic quadrant broke correct? Valeo was the old king cobra clutch if I'm not mistaken.

No, the clutch pedal doesn't stay on the floor. The pedal comes back up when you lift your foot.

The car had a clutch problem when I acquired it. The clutch wouldn't fully release making it extremely difficult to get the car into gear with the engine running.

The first thing I discovered was that the teeth on the plastic quadrant and the associated plastic pawl were torn up. I then discovered that the clutch cable was seized. I replaced the factory plastic quadrant and pawl with an aluminum three-hook quadrant kit with firewall adjuster and then I unseized the factory cable.

The clutch pedal seemed to have to have enough travel to disengage the clutch when it was set to the middle notch (the instructions that came with the aluminum quadrant kit said to install the cable in the first notch closest to the firewall. But doing that didn't move the release fork in far enough so then I had to use the middle notch on the quadrant).

I've been reading on-line about the clutch not releasing problems and I'm trying to figure out if it because I've got something mismatched. The engine is an 1982 5.0 and the transmission is an 1988 Borg Warner T5. Would an 1982 5.0 engine use a different flywheel than an 1988 engine? I should maybe check that out with Ford.

I've also read that it might help to install a spacer/washer under the ball mount for the release fork in order to bring the release fork in closer to the pressure plate. I figure though that this would however make only a slight difference. I've installed several clutches and transmissions over the years but this is the first time that I've had this problem, it's the first time I've installed a B/W T5 and it's the first time I've installed a clutch and transmission where the engine and trans were six model years apart.

I'm thinking that I've missed something or that something is mismatched and I was hoping someone here might know what it is. The transmission and clutch are currently out of the car so I want to hear some more ideas on the issue before re-installing everything and trying the clutch cable on the last hook of the aluminum three-hook quadrant...

[Autolite]

Valeo was the old king cobra clutch if I'm not mistaken.

Actually I checked on the 'Valeo' website and they show the same flywheel for both the 1982 5.0 and the 1988 5.0 so I can assume that there is no mismatch issue with respect to the flywheel I'm using. The website also shows various clutch kits (different pressure plate clamp forces and pedal efforts) but all the kits shown apply to the 5.0 engine so I'm guessing that the clutches should all be interchangeable also.

If I've got a mismatch problem I'm just not seeing it...

[83gtstang]

Only difference would be 10 inch versus 85 down 10.5 inch clutch and pressure plate from 86 up. 82 would have a 4 spd later 83 came with 5 spd. Could be that the pivot ball needed to be adjusted higher.

[Autolite]

Could be that the pivot ball needed to be adjusted higher.

That's the only thing I can think of trying before re-installing the clutch and transmission...

[Black97Tbird]

I'd get a friend to help. With the car on jackstands, have them floor the clutch and verify the problem is still happening, and how far forward the fork is moving. If you're running out of travel, then something is out of alignment. If you're not running out of travel, then the cable/quadrant needs adjusting. If you take the trans down again, check the fork and pivot ball for wear. I just replaced a set in my 96GT that wore over 1/8" off the pivot ball, and I'm sure the fork was no spring chicken either. It can stack up.

[Autolite]

If you take the trans down again, check the fork and pivot ball for wear. I just replaced a set in my 96GT that wore over 1/8" off the pivot ball, and I'm sure the fork was no spring chicken either. It can stack up.

The trans is out of the car at the moment and the pivot ball does indeed look worn. Does a new 'fork and pivot ball' come together as a set???

[83gtstang]

The trans is out of the car at the moment and the pivot ball does indeed look worn. Does a new 'fork and pivot ball' come together as a set???

As far as I know there is not a kit, but if you are at this point now, I would recommend upgrading to a more heavy duty clutch fork by Ford Motorsport, a real steel throughout bearing and pilot bearing good known brands like Motorsport or Motorcraft, not Chinese specials, also a steel throughout bearing retainer. Also, apply grease on the ballot of the clutch for pivot ball, I think it's white grease lithium something like that. EBay is a good source, lots of stores on EBay are selling out there older products because they are stopping production and will no longer be available, so closeout prices. Try to buy from one store to save on shipping.

[Autolite]

I would recommend upgrading to a more heavy duty clutch fork by Ford Motorsport.

Well, attached is a pick of the 'pivot ball stud' that was installed in the '86 LX with the T5 transmission. It is obviously worn so I'm guessing that it might be worn enough to have caused the 'no-release' problem. Wadda y'all think?

(What is strange is that the same transmission, clutch and pressure plate assembly seems to have worked fine in in the donor car which was supposedly an 1988 Cobra. The previous owner of the '86 Mustang LX says that there was no problem with the clutch when the swap was done, however the Mustang LX had been sitting outside idle for ten to twelve years after the change over until I eventually acquired the car. It was during that length of time that I am assuming the clutch cable seized up).

[83gtstang]

That thing is worn...if I were a detective, I would bring that suspect in for questioning. You just never know, it could have gone out if it were in just a little longer in the other vehicle.

[gmatt]

Has the flywheel been resurfaced(multiple times)? It might need to be shimmed. Another thing to check, and please don't take offense, proper placement of the throw out bearing in the fork or could the fork be bent? All that being said, the pivot ball does look worn.

[Jerry peachuer]

How does the splines look on the clutch and transmission? Try to dry fit that on a bench then some pictures of the fingers on the pressure plate would help is the throw out bearing oriented backwards? Or like stated above
Are there locating dowels from block to belhousing that could give you alignment issues I also heard you should use a dial indicator to check runout but I never did
With using a aftermarket quadrant and a stock cable there could be a length issue with the clutch cable
Max Motorsports give you a crimp on wedge like spacer to take up slack and works flawless but your situation could be a gulled up throwout bearing retainer
Post some pics and I'm sure you will get more detailed help

[Autolite]

Has the flywheel been resurfaced(multiple times)? It might need to be shimmed. Another thing to check, and please don't take offense, proper placement of the throw out bearing in the fork or could the fork be bent? All that being said, the pivot ball does look worn.

I don't know anything about the flywheel other than it visually appears to be in good shape. The flywheel and the engine came out of an '82 Stang. It was a different donor car than the car that the transmission and the clutch came out of.

In any case, I want to get a new fork and ball pivot stud. The clutch fork itself actually shows considerable wear where it contacts the release bearing also. Interestingly enough, the clutch and pressure plate actually appear to be in new condition. It seems that a new clutch and pp assembly were installed in an '88 Cobra and then hardly driven at all. The clutch, pp and the T5 trans where then swapped out of the '88 Cobra and installed into the '86 LX...

[Autolite]

How does the splines look on the clutch and transmission? Try to dry fit that on a bench then some pictures of the fingers on the pressure plate would help is the throw out bearing oriented backwards? Or like stated above
Are there locating dowels from block to belhousing that could give you alignment issues I also heard you should use a dial indicator to check runout but I never did
With using a aftermarket quadrant and a stock cable there could be a length issue with the clutch cable
Max Motorsports give you a crimp on wedge like spacer to take up slack and works flawless but your situation could be a gulled up throwout bearing retainer
Post some pics and I'm sure you will get more detailed help

The splines on the clutch disc and the input shaft visually appear to be in good shape. As I had mentioned earlier, there didn't seem to be any sort of binding when I slid the transmission away from the bellhousing. Everything came apart smooth and easy but I'll recheck the splines as you've suggested. There are indeed locating dowels on the engine block to the bellhousing. Nothing was binding when I took it apart.

The clutch fork is indeed 'gulled -up' a bit where the release bearing sits. I'm thinking of getting a new fork and pivot ball stud for starters. If the factory cable has indeed stretched, I figure that I can compensate for that using a spacer liked you've mentioned. Thanks for that...

[Jerry peachuer]

That pivot ball looks to have wear on the one side pretty heavy and looks good or decent on the other side
Also you should have a slight PRY to get the cable over the fork

I would then verify clutch release through the rubber inspection boot in bell housing look for anything that appears problematic I don't think it would be your clutch
Or flywheel or pressure plate but could be broken or bent fingers on pressure plate a backwards throwout bearing or the splines on the input shaft of trans are not properly oriented on clutch discs
Are you using a alignment tool for clutch disc? And is the clutch disc flipped proper direction
If everything sounds right and looks right I would put money on your cable
Hope you get it figured out there's really not much more to the system than that if you put it in gear and leave door open and see if you can shift it and rocking car as you sit in seat at same time working clutch with right foot while pushing back with your left to see if you can get it to go into gear and out of gear into another

[Autolite]

Or flywheel or pressure plate but could be broken or bent fingers on pressure plate a backwards throwout bearing or the splines on the input shaft of trans are not properly oriented on clutch discs
Are you using a alignment tool for clutch disc? And is the clutch disc flipped proper direction
If everything sounds right and looks right I would put money on your cable

Thanks for that. The cable being stretch is certainly a possibility. The disc looks fine and it was installed properly. Same with the release bearing. I will use an alignment tool on the reinstall. I've got a couple of them laying around somewhere. The fingers on the pp look good also. Nothing appears to be have been bent and nothing is broken.

So far it's only the fork and pivot ball stud that appear to have excessive wear. That and there's the possibility of a stretched cable...

[Autolite]

Only difference would be 10 inch versus 85 down 10.5 inch clutch and pressure plate from 86 up. 82 would have a 4 spd later 83 came with 5 spd.

Do you know for sure exactly 'when' Ford switched to the 10.5 inch clutch? I decided that I was going to put in a new clutch anyway rather than reuse the clutch that came with the car. The engine is an '82 5.0 so I ordered a LUK Rep Set for that application. What I got was a 10 inch clutch. When I go to do the swap I realize that this '82 engine actually had a 10.5 inch clutch so I'm now in the process exchanging the 10 inch clutch that I bought for a new 10.5 inch clutch set. I actually reordered a LUK Rep Set 10.5 inch clutch for an '86 Mustang. I am reasonably certain that I will get the correct clutch this time around.

I'm thinking that maybe the '82 5.0 has a later model flywheel installed but things get a little weirder. The clutch that came on this car was a 10.5 inch Ford Factory "Valeo" clutch. I went on the Valeo website and they show the clutch for an '82 5.0 engine as being a 10.5 inch clutch. So I have two different sources (Valeo and LUK) that show me two different sizes of clutches for the same application.

What's up with that???

[grabbergreen84]

Someone put the later flywheel on the '82 engine. I think 1986 was the first year for the 10.5" clutch.

I would try a better cable.

And one worst case-type scenario: I had a '92 GT where I couldn't get a brand new clutch to release, and I had it out and back in several times, including putting washers under the pivot ball stud, and finally found that it was because the firewall had torn where the cable passes through. The firewall was deflecting, limiting cable travel.

I think that the Perfection clutches from Advance Auto come with Valeo stamped on them.

[Autolite]

Someone put the later flywheel on the '82 engine.

I'm sure you're right. I rechecked the Valeo website and realized that I wasn't reading the specs correctly. For an '82 5.0 engine it shows a 10.5 inch "Clutch Flywheel" with 10.5 inch disc under part number #V213 and a "Clutch Kit" with a 10 inch disc under part number #52542001. I was confusing the specs for the "Clutch Flywheel" with the specs for the "Clutch Kit".

I dunno, I guess maybe it's time for new reading glasses...

[Autolite]

I think that the Perfection clutches from Advance Auto come with Valeo stamped on them.

I'm guessing Valeo makes clutches for who ever wants them. The clutch that came on this '86 Mustang LX had both "Ford" and "Valeo" stamps...

[83gtstang]

I wonder if the Advanced Auto parts uses the cores of Valeo clutches, then adds cheaper clutch materials.

[Jerry peachuer]

Any updates on this ?