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  1. #1

    Default Aluminum heads on ebay?

    Anyone here know anything about them. I couldn't find any info on who makes them. For $730 just makes me curious.
    1979 Ghia Gone to Mustang Heaven
    1980 Capri someday I'll finish this car?
    1981 Mustang ttop that I'm making a PC replica
    1993 Mustang convertible
    1998 SVT Contour DD
    1984 Mercury Capri RS

  2. #2

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    Everyone has something to say about them, whether or not they bought them. I've researched a lot on them when I was looking to build my engine, but didn't go that route. Very difficult to find someone who has actually used them, but if I ever got any heads, I'd just go with the afr's. They're proven and give the most horsepower.
    1986 Mustang GT T-top, 5 speed manual- Daily driver

  3. #3

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    Too large an investment and too much work to go with unproven parts. You really do get what you pay for.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    From what I've read is to get them bare and have them assembled with good parts. The problem is if you're not a machinist they'll end up costing as much as the better AFR, TW heads after all the work is done.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  5. #5

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    I've seen the "pro comp" heads used on several cars.. and was less than impressed. AFR is still the way to go.
    By less than impressed I mean they made no more power then good stock heads. Like the GT40's.
    With heads (to me) its better to stick with proven results and quality companies.

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capri-Magic View Post
    With heads (to me) its better to stick with proven results and quality companies.
    And buy parts that aren't a Chinese rip off of a legitimate company.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by STL79Coupe View Post
    From what I've read is to get them bare and have them assembled with good parts. The problem is if you're not a machinist they'll end up costing as much as the better AFR, TW heads after all the work is done.
    I did this. I heard the stories too, but I figured for the $410 bare to my door that I spent it was worth a chance. I ported them a bit, swapped my valve train over from my Iron Windsor Sr. heads, and had my machinist give them a good valve job and checking over. I am happy with them, no issues. Perhaps I got lucky, I don't know.

    Made in China yes, but my local machinist got to make some money off of them.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    Skip White performance has a new version out that is suppose to have better casting and hardware.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

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