idle adjustment

[fgross2006]

I've been tweaking the idle on my 84 5.0 CFI for a few weeks and I cant seem to get it to run right 100% of the time.

Its very strange. After setting the adjustment on the dashpot to run at 550 RPM it seems fine. The car chokes good now, drops to low idle when its supposed to, but then I go on the parkway to drive to work where I'm running around 60-65 MPH for about 20 miles.

As soon as I get off the parkway my curb idle runs between 750-900 and my parked idle at about 1200 rpm.

No idea why it changes after opening up on the parkway. Then when I leave work, similar thing. I leave work idling at 550 rpm, I get off the parkway about 6 miles from home running at 750-900 BUT shortly before I get home, it drops back to the correct 550 in drive and 1000 in park.

Somehow I feel my dashpot is getting too much vacuum and taking too long to adjust itself. If I ignore it, it eventually drops to the correct rpm. But I have to drive along time for that to happen. If I just drive locally around the neighborhood, the rpms stay correct at 550. To continue to play with the screw on the dashpot is a waste of time. Although I may remove it and reseat as it seems its at the end of its adjustment slot on the mounting bracket.

When it runs at the correct RPM it runs nice, but I'm still getting poor mileage. Its a brand new Motorcraft dashpot, brand new vacuum lines, brand new diaphragm in the choke pull off. Definitely no vacuum leaks in the dashpot system.

Any suggestions to get the dashpot to behave?

[xctasy]

Thread: transmission stop adjustment:- You have finally gotten it...the Throttle valve cable adjustment for the AOD needs to be done first before anything else. But don't adjust it, just check its operation first in accordances with the low level adjusment procedure JA Cook suggested.


I'll have to check the exact psi figures at 5/16" figures, but I'm setting one up for my baby 3.3 Mustang engine,, the AOD is one I imported back in 2005 to New Zeland from a 4.9 liter I-6 F150 truck, and it uses the same set up procedure as my old Aussie 4.1 Falcon engine.


I checked it. The engine idling, transmission warm, and handbrake on and Trans in N reading should be checked with Ford D84P-7032-A SERVICE tool to check it. Some suggest no less than 313 thou 5/16" MIN and no more than 438 thou is 7/16" MAX acceptable. Aim for 3/8"

AOD Road Test for TV Cable Units

In manual ”3” it must have 3-2 kickdown at 50 mph (passenger cars).
CARB AND THROTTLE BODY INJECTOR MODELS: Seem to work best with setting
between MIN and MID.

See https://www.fordsix.com/forum/viewto...0878&view=next

There is a high level adjustment, which is with a line pressure gage. And the normal adjusment, which is listed in the manual,

Ford had so many problems, that the low level set up procedure would sometimes end up burning up the transmission if the transmisson hadn't been tested with the engine running. Same applied to the Australian Ford transmissions, and as a result, the low level procedure is frought with problems. Once you understand that the low or high level adjustment is just setting the line pressure, and that you do that first with the engine started, befor setting the idle. then you'll be more aware of the fact that that 5/16" pull out measurement is determined with a gage block (a piece of mateRIal 5/16"" long, or by very carefull measurment while the engine is idling in neutral.


One company, Lokar, sets it with a special 0.2690" instead of 5/16" Min idle, and 1-3/4" wide open throttle measuremnt from a custom alloy gage block. For standard Ford production cars with AOD's, this can work.


See these two are sadly all Lokar conversions, but you'll get the idea. The Lokar uses more line pressure, with the following notes from

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/tran...12-c4-aod.html

"**Before I'll continue, remember we are dealing with a retrofit application, the adjustment of the TV cable is different from the cars originally had AOD.**
After verifying we have 0 psi when the car is at parking/neutral, we need to set the T.V cable preload so it will move as soon as we touch the throttle pedal.
I followed both the Lokar and TCI instructions, they instruct you to set the T.V cable with a "gauge tool" the "Lokar" kit will have that "tool" inside, do not look for a real tool, that thing is just a 0.3125 (5/16) shim with a notch , if you don't have it you can make it from wood or a 5/16 drill bit, the T.V tool (it's embarrassing to call it a tool…) that you will get in the Lokar kit will be a littler thinner – 0.269, using it will bump the pressure a bit and will allow more oil to the clutches and bands in the AOD."


one from Rajay53

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aV3f0Jz8q0

and another from evilperson86u

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZwsQViZilQ



to set it at 35 psi at curb idle with the engine running and the AOD transmission in N. The guy evilperson86u has an Areo Mustang was converted back to carb, but when he first tested it, the line pressure was 85 psi, which would have blown his transmission or at the very least caused poor shifting.

The early low level set up was 1/8"slack at engine idle, with trans in N and engine on, and, after the engine is turned off, there should be 1-3/4" of total pull out. Those origninal settings weren't understood by many. People didn't understand you are setting the line pressure.

Guys that put Edelbrock 1406 carbs on there Mustangs have to do it using a pressure gage, but since you don't have access to one, then you have to follow the rather odd AOD set up after the transmission has been warmed up through the gears, and the cable is


The throttle valve for the automatic transmisson needs to be in operation after having been shifted through the gears before any standard adjustments are made. Its a crtical prequel to doing the idle speed settings. The system it operates by is exactly the same as the Borg Warner 35/40/51 gearboxes used in our Australian six cylinder Fords and 1967 to 1982 Dodge Valiants. Despite, the semantics of descrition (the AOD cable is a TV cable, the BW cable is a kicdown cable, but it actually operates as a TV cable exactly as the AOD does, and it is best set up with a persure gage.

This preloads the accelerator cable. As JA Cook said, the dashpot and external cold start devices are not operated as a normal carburettor choke is, they are pilot controls, which are then allow the electronics to run the show.


I've been involved with a very similar to AOD set-up on my old LPG Falcon, which used a kickdown cable which has excatly the same set up procedure as the AOD Throttle valve.


My situation is exactly the same to yours, but for a very different reason. ( I formerly had a gasoline carburettor, with a choke which and carb throttle solonoid positioner, which would kick the idle up 50 rpm from the normal 600 rpm. Well, once that was removed, and the propane carb went on, I'd set the idle, and whaddayaknow, three minutes after driving away and setting it, the idle would be sky high.)


The operation of the AOD, having it operational (PARTLY warmed up) with the engine on, and the trans in N before you can even set the dashpot, is critical because it imparts load on the throttle at curb idle. You will then find the position you have been using is too high.



Then commence your normal adjustment.

[JACook]

It's easy enough to confirm if the VOTM is holding the idle speed up, just reach in and disconnect the
vacuum line, and see if the idle speed drops. The VOTM should normally keep the idle speed up for a
few seconds after you've come to a stop, or if the ECU is commanding the A/C clutch engaged.

Otherwise, if the ECU is commanding the VOTM to be on for an extended period of time, recall what I
mentioned earlier about the VOTM being a good 'tell' whether the engine is running in closed loop. If
you're cruising in open loop, that could also explain the poor fuel economy.

Are you still getting any KOER and/or CM codes?

[fgross2006]

It's easy enough to confirm if the VOTM is holding the idle speed up, just reach in and disconnect the
vacuum line, and see if the idle speed drops. The VOTM should normally keep the idle speed up for a
few seconds after you've come to a stop, or if the ECU is commanding the A/C clutch engaged.

Otherwise, if the ECU is commanding the VOTM to be on for an extended period of time, recall what I
mentioned earlier about the VOTM being a good 'tell' whether the engine is running in closed loop. If
you're cruising in open loop, that could also explain the poor fuel economy.

Are you still getting any KOER and/or CM codes?

Yes Jeff, if I pull vacuum to the VOTM the idle drops. Although today it wasn't racing at 900 RPM like it did yesterday. cant figure out what triggers the hi RPM.

As for open loop and codes,

I did some minor surgery this past Sunday, posted pics in another thread. I replaced the 22k ohm 1/2 watt resister with a 22k ohm 2 watt, and I replaced the wiring connector that was badly damaged with one I cut off a fender type ignition control module. From Sunday till today, no return of code 18 in CM.. HURAY!!

But I still have code 22 in KOEO. Does a KOEO code , such as this one throw the system into open loop? Or is that only the case when there's codes in KOER?
I ordered a Motorcraft MAP off Ebay, NOS. The exact part number you told me to look for prior. I am hoping this is related to the after marker MAP. If that doesn't fix the code 22 all I'm left with is running all new wire to the MAP.

Im reluctant to touch the idle and choke anymore. As many times as I set the cold fast idle to run at 2200 rpm, a day later it goes back to 2000 rpm. same with the curb idle. Ive tweaked it over and over and it keeps going back to where it wants to. I can live with a 2000 RPM cold start and the car does keep finding its way back to 550 rpm curb idle so right now my task is to correct the code 22 permanently ,

and change the timing cover gasket, that's a whole other headache.