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  1. #26

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    Very good work!
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  2. #27
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    VERY high on my list of future mods.

    When it goes into the car, I assume that the traces leading to the voltmeter will be cut?

    Mike

  3. #28
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4-barrel Mike View Post
    VERY high on my list of future mods.

    When it goes into the car, I assume that the traces leading to the voltmeter will be cut?

    Mike
    Nope, my hope is to use those same traces/wires that lead out in eng compartment.
    The wires were on there just for testing purposes.
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  4. #29

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    That is awesome, nice work! I love the stuff that looks factory. I sure wish I'd seen this thread a couple months ago. I just put my dash back in after redoing the whole thing.
    Last edited by 7point5inafox; 10-18-2015 at 07:13 AM. Reason: typo
    '85 GT 7.5L
    Got it together in time to make my son's senior prom May 13th!
    Next goal is to be sitting at National Trail Raceway on Sept 11th for Drag Week '16
    Some build pics:
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-My-85-GT-7-5L

  5. #30
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Just found this thread. Im looking to do the same thing.

    The website that does the gauges has a popup when the page loads saying he isn't working full time and he'll get to it when he gets to it.

    The website that does the over lays told me they could not find the original posters order and therefore could not offer me a copy of his VOLT gauge over lay.

    Also I notice the cover lay kit sold by LMR is original color with bright orange detailing. the coverlay that was used on the VOLT gauge seemed to be red.

    That would force me to buy the whole kit from whitegauges.net and their kit complete is $60 but from LMR its $40 so I cant mix n match or I'll end up with a red VOLT gauge and Orange everything else.

  6. #31
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    I just ordered the full kit of cover lays from whitegauges.net.

    Its annoying they charge $55 for the full kit when LMR charges $40 but I want the custom VOLT decal and I have to assume if I order the full kit from LMR and the VOLT decal from whitegauges.net I will most certainly end up with mismatched color So I made a decision.

    The LMR gauge covers look stock orange while the WGN covers are dark red. They said they could do a Red/Orange florescent similar to stock but I like the red look and when I replace my bulbs with Red LEDs it will look great I hope.

    I emailed the guy at rccinovations about the gauge conversion and he will also repair one of my fuel gauges that's not working.

    Also ordered new cluster lens and odometer reset know from LMR so I am aiming for a full cluster restoration.

    I need to ask whats the best practice for connecting the new VOLT gauge? Is it easier to treat it like an after market gauge and run new wires right to it? Or is there a way to get it to function through the cluster?

  7. #32
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    I followed the amp guage wires to the engine compartment and tried to hook
    them straight up to a voltage source. Did not work correctly for whatever reason.

    I ended up tracing amp guage wires to the main harness side of cluster connector.
    Cut them there and wired them up to a voltage source. I think I used a wire
    in the steering col, as it was large guage and not too different from batt voltage. IIRC.
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  8. #33
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    I added a volt gauge a while back in a separate spot.
    Dont think connection really matters as to where as long as in a main line.
    Tapped into a dash 12v wire, hot when key on.
    Works fine. Does more than tell if system is in charge or discharge.
    Needed to monitor what the voltage is when using items. Defog, blowers, radio/amp, lighting.
    Bat, alt, voltage available and how the system is reacting to loads when driving.
    Recently determined a weakening alt output.
    Was dropping back and forth 12-14. Would go to 14 on startup then drop back to 12 or so in couple minutes.
    Changed alt out. Assumption was correct.
    Pretty much now stays at 13.8v even under load and keeps battery charged at a normal level.

  9. #34

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    Great thread and thanks for the original poster putting good detail out there. I'm definitely going to do this on my fox restoration.

  10. #35
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Reviving this thread.

    I did the full cluster resto about 2 years back. Great look. Very happy with the overlays, new quality LEDs from superbriteled.com, new lens, reset button, rubber stops. I had my old AMP gauge refit to be a VOLT gauge.

    I wired mine to a hot 14 volt source in the dash and it does light up the VOLT gauge but what I have come to dislike about this set up is that I'm pulling a reading of voltage usage from inside the dash. So when the radio is cranking, the volt needle flicker, same with directional. If I put on headlights voltage gauge drops alot.

    I want a direct reading between Alternator and battery so i know exactly what voltage I am charging at. Later model cars that came with stock volt gauges dont behave freaky when other electric things are in use, so I think this setup is kind of hinky. There must be a way to wire direct to the engine compartment. If I run to the battery I will see what its charging at but will slowly drain when the car is off. Is there a relay or a way to run the wire to the alternator?

  11. #36
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Reviving this thread.

    I did the full cluster resto about 2 years back. Great look. Very happy with the overlays, new quality LEDs from superbriteled.com, new lens, reset button, rubber stops. I had my old AMP gauge refit to be a VOLT gauge.

    I wired mine to a hot 14 volt source in the dash and it does light up the VOLT gauge but what I have come to dislike about this set up is that I'm pulling a reading of voltage usage from inside the dash. So when the radio is cranking, the volt needle flicker, same with directional. If I put on headlights voltage gauge drops alot.

    I want a direct reading between Alternator and battery so i know exactly what voltage I am charging at. Later model cars that came with stock volt gauges dont behave freaky when other electric things are in use, so I think this setup is kind of hinky. There must be a way to wire direct to the engine compartment. If I run to the battery I will see what its charging at but will slowly drain when the car is off. Is there a relay or a way to run the wire to the alternator?

  12. #37
    FEP Power Member 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    I run my volt meter through a relay for this very reason.

    Direct battery power to the voltmeter and ground it through a relay that gets triggered when in run and accessory.

  13. #38
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Where to get power depends on your priority. If you are into stereos at all, the place you are getting power from today is exactly what the radio is seeing. While it bounces around a bit it is factual — voltages are all over the place inside a Four Eyed Fox.

    Personally I’d leave it as any changes to the observed behavior here suggests a power problem these things are prone to have has gotten worse.

  14. #39
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    I run my volt meter through a relay for this very reason.

    Direct battery power to the voltmeter and ground it through a relay that gets triggered when in run and accessory.
    Relays are great additions. Have one controlling an 8 fuse box #2 for 12v accessories, radio, stereo amp, power points.
    Triggered by run/acc circuit, is an automatic switch so battery wont get drained.
    Have a VDO voltmeter connected to it. Moves a little slower up and down than the Ranger's voltmeter.
    The Ranger's factory voltmeter moves quick with any power change like the wipers, lights, HVAC blower.
    If alt is not charging, shows that too, along with a lit idiot ALT light.

  15. #40
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 87gtVIC View Post
    I run my volt meter through a relay for this very reason.

    Direct battery power to the voltmeter and ground it through a relay that gets triggered when in run and accessory.
    Can you post a few pics of your set up? What part number for the relay?

  16. #41
    FEP Power Member 87gtVIC's Avatar
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    Mine is shoved in a relay box under the hood...does not help much.

    you need a very common 5 pin relay.

    Put keyed power on pin 86
    put ground on pin 30 and 85
    put your voltmeter ground to pin 87

    pin 87a will remain unused.

    put constant voltage on your voltmeter.



    This way your gauge will be receiving voltage directly from the battery and wont remain on all of the time but only with key.






  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by fgross2006 View Post
    I wired mine to a hot 14 volt source in the dash and it does light up the VOLT gauge but what I have come to dislike about this set up is that I'm pulling a reading of voltage usage from inside the dash. So when the radio is cranking, the volt needle flicker, same with directional. If I put on headlights voltage gauge drops alot.

    I want a direct reading between Alternator and battery so i know exactly what voltage I am charging at. Later model cars that came with stock volt gauges dont behave freaky when other electric things are in use, so I think this setup is kind of hinky. There must be a way to wire direct to the engine compartment. If I run to the battery I will see what its charging at but will slowly drain when the car is off. Is there a relay or a way to run the wire to the alternator?
    If it makes you feel any better the stock Ford auxiliary police gauges on my '91 Crown Vic do the exact same thing. The volt meter just plugs in to where the clock would on a normal car. When I have lights on and the HVAC blower on high the needle drops way down. Somewhat annoying, but not bothersome enough for me to do something about it. Oh well. At least the oil pressure gauge next to it reads properly.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
    '95 SC 5 Speed
    '91 Crown Vic P72 351W
    '97 Thunderbird
    '85 Ford LTD Squire

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