Factory Look in Dash Volt Meter

[OX1]

So I found this place that converts amp meters to volt meters.

http://www.rccinnovations.com/index....=menu-volt-all

I e-mailed them pics of the 83-86 ammeter and they said
they could convert it to a volt meter. Only $35-40, seemed
like a pretty good deal.

I also stumbled on this overlay kit from LMR.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...auge-Kit-83-86

I called them to try and find out who made these, but they
they claimed it was an in house brand and either didn't know
(or more likely did not want to say).

I'd like to have an overlay made with the same "tick" marks and batt symbol,
but remove the +/- and change "amp" to "volt".

Any idea who could make an overlay like this. Ideally, whoever made the
"AMP" one for LMR would be able to do it easy (and it looks like they have
colors/symbols down cold), but other suggestions are welcome.

[Gemini1999]

So I found this place that converts amp meters to volt meters.

http://www.rccinnovations.com/index....=menu-volt-all

I e-mailed them pics of the 83-86 ammeter and they said
they could convert it to a volt meter. Only $35-40, seemed
like a pretty good deal.

I also stumbled on this overlay kit from LMR.

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/...auge-Kit-83-86

I called them to try and find out who made these, but they
they claimed it was an in house brand and either didn't know
(or more likely did not want to say).

I'd like to have an overlay made with the same "tick" marks and batt symbol,
but remove the +/- and change "amp" to "volt".

Any idea who could make an overlay like this. Ideally, whoever made the
"AMP" one for LMR would be able to do it easy (and it looks like they have
colors/symbols down cold), but other suggestions are welcome.

I could be wrong, but I think this is where the gauge faces are coming from:

http://www.whitegauges.net/products/...ce-Gauges.html

The reason why I think that is that's where the gauge needle paint that LMRS has is coming from.

[OX1]

I could be wrong, but I think this is where the gauge faces are coming from:

http://www.whitegauges.net/products/...ce-Gauges.html

The reason why I think that is that's where the gauge needle paint that LMRS has is coming from.

Thanks a lot, you are probably right. I called them and they would do one for $25.
Each guage layover normally cost $10, so I ordered 2 for $35. They are going to send me a
proof for approval next week. I'd guess once done, anyone could order one for $10

The company doing voltmeter conversion said it would be better to put the layover on
before they do the conversion work so you don't screw up needle. This company also
repaints your needle to factory color which is cool as it seems the ammeter needle
always fades faster than the rest, for some reason.

[DonDDR]

Great idea,

[OX1]

Great idea,

Thanks, been thinking about it for a while.
Just grabbed an entire cluster with a busted speedo needle for $30 shipped off Corral.
Figure I will keep my original ammeter just in case.

The guy doing conversion said ammeter does not even need to work, he only uses needle, case, and rear studs.

[OX1]

Got the second proof today.
Lettering (font) on second try (far right) looks almost perfect.
Can't decide if I want lines to be a bit thinner.

The center white tick mark would be 12.5 volts.
Would love to add numbers, but i don't think it would
look as close to factory, as it does now.



Stock guages for reference

[mustangxtreme]

I agree the right one looks spot on.

[Gemini1999]

The one on the right looks good...I think if the text was any thinner, it wouldn't look right.

[burntorange84]

I agree on the one on the right: but maybe add 10 & 15 for the - & +? I guess you just hook up the poles to the battery connections?

On this same type of conversion, I'd love to have a real, time and pressure oil gauge like the one on my Silverado; yea I know it's a chevy but I do like seeing the real oil pressure sweep with rpm as opposed to our general 'normal' almost an idiot style gauge. I'd love the same on the temperature gauge too with real numbers. The only other thing I'd like would be to isolate it from changing the gauge values when an electrical load is applied like the lights or vents as it does factory-wise.

-j

[OX1]

I agree on the one on the right: but maybe add 10 & 15 for the - & +? I guess you just hook up the poles to the battery connections?

On this same type of conversion, I'd love to have a real, time and pressure oil gauge like the one on my Silverado; yea I know it's a chevy but I do like seeing the real oil pressure sweep with rpm as opposed to our general 'normal' almost an idiot style gauge. I'd love the same on the temperature gauge too with real numbers. The only other thing I'd like would be to isolate it from changing the gauge values when an electrical load is applied like the lights or vents as it does factory-wise.

-j

Yeah, just hook it up. The wires already run out to the engine compartment near start solenoid.
I thought about numbers, but was trying to keep it as authentic as possible.
I figure a battery in good shape is 12.6 usually, so if it is above that, it must be charging.
Problem I had with ammeter is needle never moved, not even when it was new.
That and I'm upgrading to 3G, so can't use ammeter anymore anyway.

The cost for a new overlay is $25 and for one that is already done is $10.
So you could have one done any way you want for $25. After I am done,
anyone could buy mine for $10.

My OP and Temp guages sweep, but oil pressure is not nearly as fast
as a mechanical guage. I'm fine with that as long as it reads the same
spot at idle and cruise as it always does, I'm happy.

[Hissing Cobra]

This is a pretty cool thread. I too, have always thought that the Amp gauges were useless. Mine does work, as the needle moves when I turn on the headlights or the heater fan but I prefer a volt gauge myself. I really like how you're incorporating that factory look with it. Let us know how it all works out for you.

[burntorange84]

Problem I had with ammeter is needle never moved, not even when it was new.
That and I'm upgrading to 3G, so can't use ammeter anymore anyway.

JaCook had a post about cleaning the posts of the ammeter with white vinegar and that woke it up. If I have kind of a low battery condition, it will move the needle about half way once she fires up. Otherwise it has a slight positive when normally charging.

I thought I saw someone/thread about using the ammeter with the 3G; but I do like the voltmeter too!

Do let us know how it turns out! One day I may make/convert to a real time oil pressure in the same factory style conversion; but at this stage in life I'll live with "normal" gauges!

-j

[OX1]

JaCook had a post about cleaning the posts of the ammeter with white vinegar and that woke it up. If I have kind of a low battery condition, it will move the needle about half way once she fires up. Otherwise it has a slight positive when normally charging.

I thought I saw someone/thread about using the ammeter with the 3G; but I do like the voltmeter too!

Do let us know how it turns out! One day I may make/convert to a real time oil pressure in the same factory style conversion; but at this stage in life I'll live with "normal" gauges!

-j

I've owned upwards of 20 or more 78/79 full size broncos over the years that use essentially
the same ammeter. If they worked, the movement was always very small. Never have been a
big fan of ammeters, even aftermarket.

I have the overlays coming Tues I believe. Have to install overlay and then send out gauge.
I did notice on the front of the guage face, was very small raised lettering for PN
molded in the plastic. Not sure if I want to try and file that down before I install
overlay.................

[OX1]

So factory casting had raised letters for Ford logo and PN.



which I felt needed to be filed/sanded off



Got the overlay and it looked really good.............
(being really picky, you could say battery symbol should
be a hair wider and tick marks/volt lettering could be a
tick thinner)



I would like to say that getting the overlay to stick in the exact
spot was super easy, but it wasn't. Lets just say that pointer
is a real trooper, as I abused the heck out of it. I may touch
up white areas on bottom with some flat black, but I don't think
you will even see that area.



So now it is off the the guage converter to make it a real voltmeter.
Anyone who wants to order that overlay, it's under Henry Oxley,
volt guage overlay for 86 mustang. Should be $10..........

[burntorange84]

Looks great! Do you need to repaint the Needle or do they do that?

Are the overlays just stickers or do they have a firm backing to keep them from flexing?

Thanks for sharing and let us know when you get it working.

-j

[OX1]

Looks great! Do you need to repaint the Needle or do they do that?

Are the overlays just stickers or do they have a firm backing to keep them from flexing?

Thanks for sharing and let us know when you get it working.
-j

Place that converts meter claims they repaint needle factory color.

The overlay is a thick plastic and while plenty sticky, I did pull it off
and reposition at least 4 or 5 times with no problem.

No backing of any sort, not sure I'd want it any thicker or any backing really,
it lays on pretty nice as is.

[TopGear85]

That looks spot on...very cool little mod. I like things like this, and because of your attention to detail it will be hard for even a trained eye to see the upgrade. Can't wait to see it done and back in the cluster (and back on the car).

Well done!

[JACook]

So, you're aware that you'll have to mod the wiring a bit to make the new Volt meter work, yes? It won't
be difficult, and can all be done within the instrument cluster connector, but the specifics will depend on
the polarity of the connections once it's been modded. Hopefully it will come back with the studs marked
to indicate the polarity.

[OX1]

So, you're aware that you'll have to mod the wiring a bit to make the new Volt meter work, yes? It won't
be difficult, and can all be done within the instrument cluster connector, but the specifics will depend on
the polarity of the connections once it's been modded. Hopefully it will come back with the studs marked
to indicate the polarity.

Of course. I already found and cut off the two wires in engine compartment that go to the amp-meter.
Would love to be able to use wiring that goes through cluster connector, if for no other
reason it makes it 1000 times easier if cluster ever has to come out again. After that I would cut
into harness as needed, not too worried about ever putting it back to factory stock at this point.

and yeah, I'm sure they mark studs, but not too hard to figure it out even if they don't.

[86GTdriver]

So where does one go for a how-to on the wiring to make the voltmeter work?

[grabbergreen84]

It just needs switched power from the ignition, and a ground. How to interface it with the Instrument Panel Printed Circuit Board is another good question. If you can't use the IPPCB, simply install a plug style connector between the gauge itself, and the wiring coming from the car.

If I was going to do that mod, and I might someday, I'd probably just try to modify a Volt gauge out of a newer Ford. The biggest hurdles would be fitment to the cluster, and making a Four-Eye style thin metal needle work with it.

That mod will really trip up those observant enough to notice it...

[ccurtin]

Hi,

Any update on this? I've been wanting to do this since a friend with an late 60's Mustang had them update his gauges.

Thanks,

Chris

[OX1]

Finally working on finishing the engine compartment wiring.
Would like to use original amp meter wires in engine compartment
for volt meter. Supposedly they are Red/Orange and Yellow/Lt Green.



Pretty sure these are them.........
(pic is harness, just forward of drivers strut tower)




Want to tie those two wires directly to battery through a
relay so that the voltmeter can be switched, but pick
up as true a source as I can get.

Any reason I cannot put power and ground to those two wires?
(in other words, anything else tied to that circuit, I'm guessing no)

[OX1]

Got the cluster out and the voltmeter in.

Nice that he puts a small red and black mark on each stud,
as I forgot to look to see which one was which, before I installed it.



Voltages vs Needle sweep

[1fst86]

Damn that's badass!!