Close



Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1

    Default Considering a tubular k member with shorter a arms

    Ok I mentioned this in another one of my posts. The car is a 80 Futura 3.3 auto/column. Soon to be 363 stroker/c4/column shift. I am going to use 90 GT spindles. I was going to use a 90 k member but you guys educated on that. So I was going to use a 83 k member to keep the correct width. Then I came across the UPR tubular k member kit, coil over with 1 inch shorter a arms. I like the idea of this. It will help wheel clearance issues, as well of all of the benefits to using a tubular k member. However I am concerned about no sway bar. The car will mostly be a weekend warrior. UPR sells these arms with and without the sway bar mount. I'm just not sure if the 90 GT sway bar will fit if the a arms are 1 inch shorter? Also will these tubular members bolt in the exact spot? I had trouble with my torque box kit, as the floor pan is slightly different in the fairmont. Does the front clip of the car have the same mounting holes as the mustang? Any other thoughts on this set up? Has anyone tried this? Sorry for all the questions. I just dont want to buy parts that wont fit. Thanks

  2. #2

    Default

    The forward k-member mounting holes in the wheel wells will be the same. The rear mounting holes will require a nut plate from a later k-member and some slotting of the holes in the body. It's not too far off though.

    Can't really say about the other questions. I have a tubular K on mine with stock A-arms.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #3

    Default

    Shorter control arms can cause contact with the coil over springs in some cases. Depends on the wheel being used. Also, the sway bar mounts on the control arms are in factory location on both the shorter and factory length tubular control arms.
    Build thread:
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...nt-wagon-build

    blown 91 coupe- Sold
    Turbo 88 gt- Sold
    Supercharged 01 mustang-Sold
    5.0 swapped 2000 ranger- Sold
    97 mustang bolt on gt- daily driver
    79 Fairmont wagon-1600hp beast under construction

    I don't care about possesing the finished product. I want to create it.

  4. #4
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Mechanicsburg, PA
    Posts
    112

    Default

    If you decide to use skinnies on the front, my advice would be to try driving it with only a good aftermarket ARB kit on the rear (but purchase the arms with the tabs). A friend has a Capri and swears it will out handle the skinnies with just a rear ARB.

    Lon

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member TeeJayTee's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    639

    Default

    Doing the exact thing you are asking about. I have a PA racing k-member, I believe the year was '83 to '87 or '79 to '87, can't recall exactly. the k-member I got bolted right up to the factory mounts in the frame, had to egg out the back holes in the k-member a little, but it wasn't a big deal at all. I also didn't have any problems bolting the stock a-arms to the k-member. I went with the 1" shorter a-arms and coilovers like you are looking at from UPR. Honestly I've been around the whole sway bar problem too. there could be a possibility of making your own mounts on the a-arms, but I haven't got into that yet. I had just planned on running no sway bar in the front. I'm going to be using '94 to '95 spindles with bumpsteer (because I'll be lowering the car quite a bit). In theory, you're only problems lie in the sway bar and tire clearance from the tire to coilovers. I had 8" wheels before on the front with a 6+ inch backspacing and there's no way those will fit with the coilovers. I had 9" wheels narrowed down to about 6.5". A 7" would most likely fit maybe an 8", but that all depends on your backspacing.

    Also, you'll need adjustable caster camber plates for the top of your strut towers to get your alignment right (or close enough). It is a bit of a process and can cost quite a bit if you need to change wheels and play with the sway bar.

    I spent the money and just went ahead and bought all the parts, because there's no way to get the type of look I want with the little amount of room the stock length a-arms and fender clearance provides. Plus I can always return the parts, just costs me some money in shipping. Also brakes are something to research.

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BadZ View Post
    If you decide to use skinnies on the front, my advice would be to try driving it with only a good aftermarket ARB kit on the rear (but purchase the arms with the tabs). A friend has a Capri and swears it will out handle the skinnies with just a rear ARB.

    Lon
    Driving on the street with an ARB hooked up is a good way to bend or break your links. Always leave it unhooked on the street.
    Build thread:
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...nt-wagon-build

    blown 91 coupe- Sold
    Turbo 88 gt- Sold
    Supercharged 01 mustang-Sold
    5.0 swapped 2000 ranger- Sold
    97 mustang bolt on gt- daily driver
    79 Fairmont wagon-1600hp beast under construction

    I don't care about possesing the finished product. I want to create it.

  7. #7

    Default

    For those of us who are stupid, such as myself , WTF is "ARB" and why in the world would you go without a front sway bar on a car that isn't strictly for the drag strip?
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  8. #8

    Default

    ARB = anti roll bar. Does not serve the same function as a sway bar. Completely different. It prevents the rear housing from rolling at launch. If used on the street the bar can twist/break, links can break, or tabs can snap off.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Build thread:
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...nt-wagon-build

    blown 91 coupe- Sold
    Turbo 88 gt- Sold
    Supercharged 01 mustang-Sold
    5.0 swapped 2000 ranger- Sold
    97 mustang bolt on gt- daily driver
    79 Fairmont wagon-1600hp beast under construction

    I don't care about possesing the finished product. I want to create it.

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member TeeJayTee's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Minnesota
    Posts
    639

    Default

    well I don't plan on doing any stupid cornering in the car so I figure the front say bar isn't all that important. As it is now I've driven it 3 months out of the whole 3 years i've owned the car.

  10. #10

    Default

    Thanks for the answers! Never heard of an anti-roll bar like that before. I'm sure every time I heard the term though, I just thought they were talking about a sway bar.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  11. #11

    Default

    I have aje tubular k in mine with upr adj one inch shorter arms. Im running 94 spindles and brakes as well as flaming river manual rack. Aje coilovers, and strange 10 ways with team z caster camber plates.

    The back holes on the k member had to be enlarged a tad and the team z caster camber plate on the driver side the bottom had to be modded a little due to the earlier design towers.

    Here is my build take a peak and pm with any questions.
    http://s70.photobucket.com/user/slee...?sort=3&page=1

  12. #12

    Default

    [QUOTE=sleeper;1699658]I have aje tubular k in mine with upr adj one inch shorter arms. Im running 94 spindles and brakes as well as flaming river manual rack. Aje coilovers, and strange 10 ways with team z caster camber plates.

    The back holes on the k member had to be enlarged a tad and the team z caster camber plate on the driver side the bottom had to be modded a little due to the earlier design towers.

    Here is my build take a peak and pm with any questions.
    What did you do about a sway bar?

  13. #13

    Default

    No sway bar/ cause race car

  14. #14

    Default

    Team z tubular k in mine one inch shorter arms. Im running 94 spindles and brakes as well as flaming river manual rack. Strange struts/shocks with team z caster camber plates. Everything bolted right up no front sway bar, w/ rear arb.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •