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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default opinion on oil and gas

    Is there any real difference when using higher octane gas?
    My cars owners manual says it was made to run on 87 unleaded. I've heard that high octane gas is really for hot rodded engines.
    Ive tried every grade of gas from 87 - 93 and I never noticed a real difference in power or performance. Is there a mileage boost to using hi octane gas?

    Also, whats the best oil to use when doing a change? Both brand and viscosity grade. I noticed my oil is hardly dirty at all and I changed it last May and Im low maybe a pint. Ive never had a car so good on oil before. Is there any consensus to adding a quart of Lucas or Hi-Tach to an oil change?

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    I would still use premium quality 93 because they claim it also has better additives that keep your engine cleaner. I'm not sure how you could prove or disprove that but it's something to consider for an engine that doesn't get run on a regular basis. If you drive your car often and put a lot of miles on it then you might make the argument for the cheaper priced fuel. That said you will not see any performance increase by using premium fuel in a stock engine.

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member gt4494's Avatar
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    If you do not have high compression and are not running a lot of timing advance, the 87 will be fine for the engine.
    The more ethanol (alcohol) that is in your gas the worse your mileage will be.

    Dinosaur oil should be changed at the most yearly regardless of miles. Run the viscosity that your climate needs.

    Synthetic oil does not attract the moisture that Dinosaur oil does so it could be changed less frequently. However these engines were designed for dinosaur oil and I would stick to it (not going to argue the merits of one verse the other).
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  4. #4

    Default

    Im very anal about my car maintaince,

    for oil ANY brand you like 10w30 10w40 is max weight you can use, but stay with 10w30 all years round, Oil filter Motorcraft oil filter FL1A , change every 4-5 month or twice a years. I like Super Mobil 5000 oil its $13 a gallon ( 5 quart ) and motocraft oil filter FL1A is $3.45 and I change twice a years, no matter how little miles I drive.

    Valvoline white bottle is also very good oil, pennzoil is also good oil , quaker state is also good oil ( dont listen to those that say pennzoil quaker state will make your engine slug, just smile and use it, oil these day are very very good compare to oil back in the 60-70-80

    oil filter, wix, napa gold ( same as wix ), Motorcraft ( my # 1 oil filter for ford engine ).

    if you want the best and cheap money can buy oil filter, get FRAM Ultra ( look at the picture ) this filter is $7-$8, ALOT media, wire mesh, silicone ADBV ( anti drain back valve ).... I use this one, feel wasted when I change it out for just 6 month

    Some will tell you use synthetic ( mobil 1 ), that ok too, but change every 5-6 month or 4-5k miles is a wasted, that can go up to 1 years or 9-10k miles. I like change my twice a years. So I like stick with dino regular oil.

    for gas, go here http://pure-gas.org/ look for a gas station near you, that sell none ethanol gas, its better for our old car... contain no alcohol mix, just pure gas.

    if no station near you that sell none ethanol, just go with PaceFever79 suggest , I would do the same if no gas station near me sell none ethanol gas.

    go to bobistheoilguy if you want learn everything about gas, oil, maintaince, but beware MANY became OCD that they care everything little thing.. ( blow the oil filter to make sure its not leak, buy every oil that onsale and horder it, they already had oil that last them 10 years, but still buying ... ), I was on that forum for 7 years, I did develope an OCD, obsess over brand of oil, oil filter...care about every little thing... its been 2 years I havent visit the site. I over come those problem. stay with good brand and you good to go.
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    Last edited by Sinister; 12-14-2014 at 09:01 PM.
    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

  5. #5
    FEP Member jsfrv6's Avatar
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    Use the lowest octane your motor will stand... More is a waste of money and will actually get less mileage. The detergent/additive packages are the same per mfg for either grade. As far as oil goes, I change mine in my daily drive every 5K... My weekend warrior, Once a year.... For what we do, just about any brand is good as long as it gets changed. Now, If you have a flat tappet cam like me, use some zinc additive..

    Wix filters are about as good as you can get, The good napa filter are just rebranded wix...
    Scott
    Picayune,MS 39466
    Torch Red 2004 Mach 1 Mustang
    Silver 85 GT
    Previous set up...
    306, Lunati flat tappet, Eddy Performer Heads, RPM intake, Holley 650DP, Shorty Headers, Flowmasters, 3.73, T5. 12.92 @109

    Current set up,,,
    408w, Internally balanced Scat rotating assy, Comp Hyd roller, Brodix heads, eddy air gap RPM intake, PowerjectionIII EFI, Longtube 1-3/4 headers, Flowmasters, 3.55 Cobra 31 spline diff w/Moser axles, TKO 600 5spd, Mcleod dual disc street clutch... ET... Traction Limited 11.93 @120mph

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Default

    According to this Shell Premium has more cleaning additives.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79 View Post
    According to this Shell Premium has more cleaning additives.
    perfect gas, its on the list top tier gas approve, for complete top tier gas approve visit here.

    http://www.toptiergas.com/retailers.html
    Last edited by Sinister; 12-14-2014 at 10:02 PM.
    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

  8. #8
    FEP Member jsfrv6's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79 View Post
    According to this Shell Premium has more cleaning additives.
    I stand corrected... However, Texaco make no such claim... http://www.texaco.com/gasoline.aspx
    Scott
    Picayune,MS 39466
    Torch Red 2004 Mach 1 Mustang
    Silver 85 GT
    Previous set up...
    306, Lunati flat tappet, Eddy Performer Heads, RPM intake, Holley 650DP, Shorty Headers, Flowmasters, 3.73, T5. 12.92 @109

    Current set up,,,
    408w, Internally balanced Scat rotating assy, Comp Hyd roller, Brodix heads, eddy air gap RPM intake, PowerjectionIII EFI, Longtube 1-3/4 headers, Flowmasters, 3.55 Cobra 31 spline diff w/Moser axles, TKO 600 5spd, Mcleod dual disc street clutch... ET... Traction Limited 11.93 @120mph

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default

    Stick with regular grade if engine runs good on it.
    Change air and fuel filters regularly.

    Premium is for engines that mechanically require it.

    Buy from clean stations who sell a lot of fuel. Fresher. The seasonal blend is up to date.
    Stay away from dirty stations or ones that have nearby or under construction (dust/dirt may get into tanks?).
    I avoid dual hose pumps that offer regular fuel with diesel or E85 on the other side.

    Premium is a low volume seller, so how fresh is the gas in that underground tank?

    Everyone has gotten crap fuel from high price low sales 'big oil' stations.
    They prob need additives to help preserve it.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    I avoid dual hose pumps that offer regular fuel with diesel or E85 on the other side..
    Any reason behind this ? I was thinking mabe its only me thinking like that, what do you think about this ?
    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Unless you got Size 10 feet, don't use size 10 shoes. The Octane is the shoie size

    Use lowest octane gas you can manage. Everything you buy that is better carries with it a cost, plus margin. Most margin is made on 93 and 95 octane, not 87.

    Every Ford Fox can handle 87 octane, except maybee the big footed Foxes...a worn 86 EFI 5.0 with a stock cam, or s Turbo Carb 2.3.

    Adding octane to those allows a nice, fat midrange on a speed density EFI or Carb turbo where you can bump up the static timing a liitle.

    For everything else, penut grade 87 should do just fine.

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinister View Post
    Any reason behind this ? I was thinking mabe its only me thinking like that, what do you think about this ?
    Yah back in the 70's was driving home with friend from Chicago.
    Stopped in a Indiana truck stop to fuel up.

    Made absolutely sure i used the right hose and pump.
    Even asked the attendant inside is that pump number for gasoline?

    A couple minutes later car (VW beetle) stalled on the freeway entrance.
    Smell like diesel out back and in tank.
    It did run but not very well.
    Went thru a 2 day ordeal getting the car straighten out.

    Been leery ever since, although never had that situation again to date.

    Maybe the fuel truck driver was new or had a bad day and make a mistake during a fuel drop.
    But already unloaded some diesel into the gasoline storage tank?
    No tell.

    I ate breakfast inside before the fuel up, so i was not in any real hurry at the time.
    Last edited by gr79; 12-15-2014 at 01:15 PM.
    past owned daily driven many memorable times with all
    1967 Mustang 'verti Sports Sprint 289 Holley 4vC4 2.79 lime gold blk vinyl (6/70-4/73) 100k
    1970 VW 113 Beetle modded 1650 5200 2v 4sp Hurst 4.13 grn blk leathette (1973-1977) 200k
    1975 VW 1303 S Beetle LaGrande 1600 EFI 4sp Hurst 3.88 lime grn tan cloth (1977-1980) 90k
    1985 LTD LX 5.0 CFI HO AOD 3.27 gray gray (1987-1990) 75k
    1986 Ranger XL 2wd 7' bed 114 wb 2.3 EFI 5 sp 3.45 gray burgundy cloth (1990-1994) 180k
    current owned now weekly driven totally enjoyed
    1979 Mustang Cobra 61R 2.3T Holley 2305 2v '92 T5 Hurst 3.45 black orange decals (7/80- )
    1993 Ranger XLT R103 2wd 7' bed 114 wb 2.3 EFI 5sp Hurst 3.45 calypso green gray (3/94- )

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Yah back in the early 70's was driving home from Chicago.
    Stopped in a Indiana truck stop to fuel up.

    Made absolutely sure i used the right hose and pump.
    Even asked the attendant inside is that pump number for gasoline?

    A couple minutes later car (VW beetle) stalled on the freeway entrance.
    Smell like diesel out back and in tank.
    It did run but not very well.
    Went thru a 2 day ordeal getting the car straighten out.

    Been leery ever since, although never had that situation again to date.
    ah, because she pick the wrong hose ? I seen that happen before. I though you was referd as the diesel tank and gas tank some how leak and get mix up into each other...
    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    I pumped it. Self serve.
    I think the hose nozzle is different for diesel (larger).
    Wont fit hole in car fuel neck.

    My good friend that was with me, worked in a gas station.
    We laughed. What if i pumped the wrong fuel?
    Kept thinking "make sure, make sure".
    He was watching.
    We still talk about that nightmare to this day.

    I may have even smelled the nozzle and it was ok.

    Even stopped there again years later, enroute to Chicago, to eat breakfast.
    This time the food was not as good.
    We agreed. No fuel purchase for sure this time.
    Last edited by gr79; 12-15-2014 at 01:26 PM.
    past owned daily driven many memorable times with all
    1967 Mustang 'verti Sports Sprint 289 Holley 4vC4 2.79 lime gold blk vinyl (6/70-4/73) 100k
    1970 VW 113 Beetle modded 1650 5200 2v 4sp Hurst 4.13 grn blk leathette (1973-1977) 200k
    1975 VW 1303 S Beetle LaGrande 1600 EFI 4sp Hurst 3.88 lime grn tan cloth (1977-1980) 90k
    1985 LTD LX 5.0 CFI HO AOD 3.27 gray gray (1987-1990) 75k
    1986 Ranger XL 2wd 7' bed 114 wb 2.3 EFI 5 sp 3.45 gray burgundy cloth (1990-1994) 180k
    current owned now weekly driven totally enjoyed
    1979 Mustang Cobra 61R 2.3T Holley 2305 2v '92 T5 Hurst 3.45 black orange decals (7/80- )
    1993 Ranger XLT R103 2wd 7' bed 114 wb 2.3 EFI 5sp Hurst 3.45 calypso green gray (3/94- )

  15. #15

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    This gas station near me ( 2 min from work, 2 min from home ), sell none ethanol gas. Gas price is really good now ( $2,88, I use this none ethanol for my daily drive, its run cleaner and you can get better gas miles on it too.
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    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

  16. #16

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    As others have commented, I would only use Top Tier gasoline, but even then, they're not all created equal.
    For example, I won't use Arco because I've found it's consistently lower grade. Engines that are borderline
    for running regular will ping on Arco, but will run fine on other gasolines.

    My cars all get Chevron/Texaco, period. End of discussion. Over the years, I've tried others from time to time,
    but I keep going back to what I know works consistently. I've never seen the point in buying questionable
    gasoline to save $1-2 against a $50 fill-up. Fundamentally, gasoline does pretty much all come from the same
    place, but the other half of that truth is that it very much matters what else they mix in with it.

    I only use premium in engines that need it. Both my '85s actually run better on regular.
    Last edited by JACook; 12-15-2014 at 07:52 PM.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Oil filter- FL1-A
    Has a 6 slot base like no other- said to flow 9gpm:
    https://books.google.com/books?id=mN...0slots&f=false

    Oil- like fuel, its what additive package is in it. Most all meet SN spec.
    My 79 owners manual states not to use CC, an old spec for diesel engine oil.

    How i can tell when the fuel is not right?
    May peck a little under boost or part throttle under load.
    Car runs on when turning it off, no matter what weather or drive conditions.
    Happens from time to time no matter what brand. More common with cheap gas.

    Once read oil pipelines carry all kinds of product in batches.

  18. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    As others have commented, I would only use Top Tier gasoline, but even then, they're not all created equal.
    For example, I won't use Arco because I've found it's consistently lower grade. Engines that are borderline
    for running regular will ping on Arco, but will run fine on other gasolines.

    My cars all get Chevron/Texaco, period. End of discussion. Over the years, I've tried others from time to time,
    but I keep going back to what I know works consistently. I've never seen the point in buying questionable
    gasoline to save $1-2 against a $50 fill-up. Fundamentally, gasoline does pretty much all come from the same
    place, but the other half of that truth is that it very much matters what else they mix in with it.

    I only use premium in engines that need it. Both my '85s actually run better on regular.
    Definately agree with the chevron, thats all I use in mine. But I do have a question of my own...Ive been told that due to the way our 302's are designed to run at higher than normal temps that 20w50 is the optimal viscosity since lighter weights break down faster at higher temps. Is that really the case?
    '85 T-Top GT 5.0L HO 5spd
    Breathing upgrades/Stock block

  19. #19
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    The one thing not mentioned here to be careful of is to never fuel up your vehicles when you see a tanker truck at a gas station dumping fuel into the underground tanks.
    There is always a certain amount of sediment and water (up to two inches) on the bottom of these tanks. With a tanker truck there putting fuel in the ground all that garbage is stirred up and put through your fuel system if you are unaware of this and refuel at the same time the station gets gas.
    20W50 is thicker oil and should not be used in an engine not designed for it.

  20. #20
    FEP Super Member PaceFever79's Avatar
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    Ask 10 experts and you'll get 10 answers about oil. I like Dino oil best for the average and higher mile SBF. Mainly because of the clearances and higher viscosity of Dino and I like to change my oil more often to remove the buildup of contaminants, so I don't need an oil that costs twice as much and can go 5000 miles. But using Synthetic isn't going to hurt anything. I use it in modern engines. On the subject of viscosity, you don't want to go overboard because oil also helps to cool the bearings, thinner oil flows faster through the engine than thicker oil, so it dissipates more of the heat. I've been using Motorcraft filters and Valvoline 10w40 in stock engines and VR1 20w50 in my hot rods for over 30 years and never had an oil related failure. Lately I got spooked into adding a Zinc additive just to be safe with my flat tappet cam motors. Again, 10 experts, with 10 opinions. But most cam makers require a zinc additive. That's good enough for me! I'm not switching.
    Last edited by PaceFever79; 12-16-2014 at 09:00 AM.

  21. #21
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    excellent post. I have always used Mobil 1 Full Synthetic if only for the reason that most wear occurs at start-up and I want max protection during that period. Mobil 1 synthetic has excellent adhesion properties (the oil sticks to/coats metal during long periods of non-use so its got some protection during start-up) I also like the heat transfer properties of Mobil 1 full syn. Yes, overkill, but, just like it. and yes. FL-1As. I must admit, I have recently tried the motorcraft syn-blend oil and FL-1A on my F250.

    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79 View Post
    Ask 10 experts and you'll get 10 answers about oil. I like Dino oil best for the average and higher mile SBF. Mainly because of the clearances and higher viscosity of Dino and I like to change my oil more often to remove the buildup of contaminants, so I don't need an oil that costs twice as much and can go 5000 miles. But using Synthetic isn't going to hurt anything. I use it in modern engines. On the subject of viscosity, you don't want to go overboard because oil also helps to cool the bearings, thinner oil flows faster through the engine than thicker oil, so it dissipates more of the heat. I've been using Motorcraft filters and Valvoline 10w40 in stock engines and VR1 20w50 in my hot rods for over 30 years and never had an oil related failure. Lately I got spooked into adding a Zinc additive just to be safe with my flat tappet cam motors. Again, 10 experts, with 10 opinions. But most cam makers require a zinc additive. That's good enough for me! I'm not switching.

  22. #22

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    NOTE : everything I say here, you can think it BS or what ever, its ok for me, Im just put an aware out there, its up to you to change or not, It dont really dont effect much to me, I am just saying.

    Bad new ( kinda ) for motorcraft oil filter , right now purolator brand ( they made motorcraft for ford ) is in bad quality, their oil filter been report as having hole, ripe, and tear ... many member had cut their open and found the exactly same location every one mention, some but very small peoples report FL820s ( ford motorcraft ) is having tear problem also, havent heard FL1A fail yet since no one is cut them open yet. most peoples right now do not use purolator product any more until they fix the tear problem .

    I heard this new a while back, but refuse to believe and keep using the motorcraft, I still currenty using FL820s for my 5.4 3v expedition, 2 FL1A for foxbody, and 1 AC delco for my foxbody ( dont ask ). Plan on switch all motorcraft filter to wix next oil change.

    well until last night I did went back to the site and did some search , I spend 3 hours searching and reading, see how every thing is at.. find out some new about motorcraft tears ... and find out what every one favored brand now since purolator bad quality, most are using wix, napa gold, fram ultra and fram TG , I will stick to wix ( same napa gold ) for now on just to be on safe side.

    here is few example for tear media from purolator brand . You can go to that site, I think most already know this site. and look up on oil filter section. and see what every one debate about. You dont have to do this if you dont want to. and keep using what ever u using now.

    these 3 link is just example, there is more link like this, where member cut filter open, you can look up more on the site.


    http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...1_Cut_Open_-_3
    http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...L14610#3564537

    motorcraft

    http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums..._media#3564360


    If you have oreilly auto part near you. They currently having $5 off $10 coupon, perfect time to pick up some wix oil filter . Or just use for some interior cleaning... or what ever you like, imma try pick up 2 wix oil filter on lunch time.
    http://cashcountdown.hscampaigns.com/


    by the way, if you currently using motorcraft oil filter, mabe cut it open to see how its. I wish I have tool to cut, I been save couple oil motorcraft oil filter.
    Last edited by Sinister; 12-16-2014 at 12:56 PM.
    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

  23. #23
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    I can't believe there is a forum where people actually cut filters open and look at them and have pages of discussions about them. Do they not have anything better to do? The first owner of my 84 followed the factory recommended oil/filter changes and ran nothing but Fram filters and Quaker State oil the first 98k miles it was driven. When I changed the valve cover gaskets there was no sludge. I ran Fram filters and plain old Havoline in it until it had 240k miles on it, changing the filter and oil every 5k miles. When I pulled the engine out for the Explorer that replaced it, there was no sludge in it and it ran fine, though it was getting a little tired. Never did use much oil either.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  24. #24

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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    I can't believe there is a forum where people actually cut filters open and look at them and have pages of discussions about them. Do they not have anything better to do? The first owner of my 84 followed the factory recommended oil/filter changes and ran nothing but Fram filters and Quaker State oil the first 98k miles it was driven. When I changed the valve cover gaskets there was no sludge. I ran Fram filters and plain old Havoline in it until it had 240k miles on it, changing the filter and oil every 5k miles. When I pulled the engine out for the Explorer that replaced it, there was no sludge in it and it ran fine, though it was getting a little tired. Never did use much oil either.
    yes lol, that forum can blow your mind, very active forum.with 42,000+ member I been on it for 7 years, I did develope some OCD, while im active on that forum, peoples debate everything about maintaince the cars, every little thing, how quality and how efficiency rate on oil filter is, they send oil sample to a lab for testing. and they post report on forum for other to look...... some peoples blow on oil filter to see if it leak.... one day I realise wtf, F*** this, if my car blow up, I just pay some one to repair it or get new car...that when I left.

    beware those thing can make you depress, worried, OCD.... , but that site had ALOT of good info on everything about cars, oil, truck, gas, any filter car/truck relate... mod over there is very cool and active, I know the site owner very well, I know her phone #, I call her some time. peoples will not bash you for anything, because mod will banned them, be nice and read and post ANY question about cars, or be a GHOST and read , with 42,000+ member...

    if you ask, what is best oil and oil filter , best transmission fluid, best power steering fluid, best brake fluid.... for 85 mustang gt, they will rely with different oil brand and oil filter, and why they choose the oil, and which oil is match to your driving condition.... very detail, give it a test lol. Beware dont let it pull u in.
    Last edited by Sinister; 12-16-2014 at 01:39 PM.
    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

  25. #25
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    Yeah, right, pull me in. I think they're all just a little bit touched in the head. So long as you regularly change your oil and filter on a street car, you're pretty much good. I think those guys are wasting way too much of their life.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

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