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  1. #1
    FEP Member redse's Avatar
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    Default Black metal trim piece on rocker panel

    On my 84 LX how does the black trim piece come off without me messing it up, it must clip on some how? Need to get it unfastened to finish taking off front fender, thought maybe check some of the mustang sites like AM or LMR they don't even show this piece! Does anyone even make these? Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member tbirdman's Avatar
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    Not sure how it comes off, but there are three different retainers that hold it on. The part numbers are as follows;

    D9ZZ 6610182-B (front retainer)
    D8BZ 5410182-A (middle retainer)
    D8BZ 5410198-A (rear retainer)

    A total of 7 retainers are needed for each side. Not sure how many of each are needed.

    The rocker panel molding part numbers are;

    D9ZZ 6610176-A (black)
    D9ZZ 6610176-B (chrome)

    Take good care of them if your rocker panel moldings are black, I couldn't find any available. Green Sales shows to have two of the chrome ones in stock.
    If they take my stapler, then I'll set the building on fire...

    85 Mustang GT

  3. #3
    FEP Member redse's Avatar
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    you know what I'm talking about then and yes they are black and very good shape which is why I don't wont to mess them up! Funny I went to yahoo search images and punched in 1984 LX trying to find these pieces and not one pic had them? What's the deal with these? Thanks again

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    I did a search on Google and there are a couple of pairs of the rocker panel molding for sale on eBay. Finding pics of the molding was fairly easy, but finding pics of the retaining clips...not so much. I even checked my '84 shop manual...lots of info on other pieces of exterior trim, but not a word about the rocker panels.
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible

  5. #5

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    I don't think those were really common, and I'm surprised that they were still using them in '84.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
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  6. #6
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The locker rocker moldings are held in place by plastic clips that are riveted to the body. At the front fender there is a metal stud clip that holds the molding to the fender. You either have to get at it from underneath the front fender or remove the inner fender liner to get to it through the wheel well. I believe there is the same type of clip at the back of the molding in the rear wheel well just behind the door, but I haven't taken a pair off in a couple of years, so I might be wrong.

    My trick for releasing the molding from the clips is to jack the car up so I can get under the rocker. I personally use a door panel clip tool that is the thin style, but a wide flat blade screwdriver will work too. Once you get the front fender clip loose, carefully pull out on the molding just slightly while laying under the rocker, so you can see the clips holding the molding on. Find the first clip on the rocker (should be very close to the seam between the rocker and the front fender) and carefully insert the screwdriver at the leading edge of the clip. You want to use a slight amount of pressure to gently pop or twist the molding a bit to get it to release from the clip. It's harder to describe than it is to do. Sometimes you will need to be in the middle of the clip if it won't release from one end. So gently pop the molding loose at the first clip and then repeat the process as you move from the front fender to the rear quarter. Generally it will get easier as you go and the first couple are the hardest. Sometimes after you get to about mid door, you can actually slightly twist the molding length wise as you apply a bit of prying pressure at the clip to help them release.

    If you take your time and don't get too rough with the molding it will pop out the clips and there won't be any damage to the molding. You might scratch the paint a bit, but that's an easy fix. Sometimes you can also use a paint stir stick to help pop off the molding once you get past the first couple to help make sure you don't cause any damage.

    Good Luck and PM me if you have any issues or other questions. If I was home I would take a picture of the clip locations for you on my SVO as it used the same moldings, just cut short for the spats at the back.

    Trey
    ​Trey

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  7. #7

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    Wow, I really have no idea which moulding you guys are talking about? I know about the metal moulding on the SVO's, that runs along the bottom of the rockers, but I didn't think any other cars (besides the svo) got it. Can someone post a pic of it (not of an svo, but of an 84LX or similar)?
    Cheers!

    Mike (TopGear85)



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  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Here are just the first 3 that I found in the Library with the Ford brochures. They are from the 79, 80, and 81 years respectively.

    Name:  pg8.jpg
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Size:  156.8 KB

    You can go to the Library and find more or enlarge the photos for more details. The polished lower rocker moldings are generally easier to spot due to the contrast for most vehicles. If you look closely there are many models that had the black lower rocker moldings, but they don't stand out as much on most cars, but they are there.

    I believe Ford used the moldings up through 86, but IMHO the number of cars with the moldings seem to diminish a lot after the 84 model.

    Trey

    Well as usual, FoxChassis schooled me on the options! Although I was correct, the number of moldings did diminish a lot after 84!
    Last edited by wraithracing; 11-21-2014 at 09:52 AM. Reason: Correct my Mistake
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  9. #9

    Default

    For the 1984 model year....

    L = 'Bright' molding (optional)
    LX = 'Bright' molding on 2-door (standard?), Black molding on 3-door (standard?)
    GT = Black paint (standard) (exc. G.T.350)
    Turbo GT = Black paint (standard) (exc. G.T.350)
    SVO = Black molding (standard)

    After the 1984 model year all models except the SVO dropped their rocker molding/paint treatment.
    Last edited by FoxChassis; 11-21-2014 at 08:22 AM.
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  10. #10
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TopGear85 View Post
    Wow, I really have no idea which moulding you guys are talking about? I know about the metal moulding on the SVO's, that runs along the bottom of the rockers, but I didn't think any other cars (besides the svo) got it. Can someone post a pic of it (not of an svo, but of an 84LX or similar)?
    Here's a good one of the rocker molding. I have them on my 84 LX Vert. I was also wondering how to take them off but I wasn't ready for that question yet. Glad someone else asked first! LOL

    Last edited by 84StangSVT; 11-21-2014 at 09:09 AM.
    Brock
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  11. #11
    FEP Member redse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Here's a good one of the rocker molding. I have them on my 84 LX Vert. I was also wondering how to take them off but I wasn't ready for that question yet. Glad someone else asked first! LOL

    Yes those are them!

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    I've took them off a couple of cars and I'm trying to remember how now. I think you can just push down on the molding, pop the bottom of it loose from the clip, the push up on it and slide it right off.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  13. #13
    FEP Member redse's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    The locker rocker moldings are held in place by plastic clips that are riveted to the body. At the front fender there is a metal stud clip that holds the molding to the fender. You either have to get at it from underneath the front fender or remove the inner fender liner to get to it through the wheel well. I believe there is the same type of clip at the back of the molding in the rear wheel well just behind the door, but I haven't taken a pair off in a couple of years, so I might be wrong.

    My trick for releasing the molding from the clips is to jack the car up so I can get under the rocker. I personally use a door panel clip tool that is the thin style, but a wide flat blade screwdriver will work too. Once you get the front fender clip loose, carefully pull out on the molding just slightly while laying under the rocker, so you can see the clips holding the molding on. Find the first clip on the rocker (should be very close to the seam between the rocker and the front fender) and carefully insert the screwdriver at the leading edge of the clip. You want to use a slight amount of pressure to gently pop or twist the molding a bit to get it to release from the clip. It's harder to describe than it is to do. Sometimes you will need to be in the middle of the clip if it won't release from one end. So gently pop the molding loose at the first clip and then repeat the process as you move from the front fender to the rear quarter. Generally it will get easier as you go and the first couple are the hardest. Sometimes after you get to about mid door, you can actually slightly twist the molding length wise as you apply a bit of prying pressure at the clip to help them release.

    If you take your time and don't get too rough with the molding it will pop out the clips and there won't be any damage to the molding. You might scratch the paint a bit, but that's an easy fix. Sometimes you can also use a paint stir stick to help pop off the molding once you get past the first couple to help make sure you don't cause any damage.

    Good Luck and PM me if you have any issues or other questions. If I was home I would take a picture of the clip locations for you on my SVO as it used the same moldings, just cut short for the spats at the back.

    Trey
    Well found out at the very front of these is a stud with a nut on the back side, lower part of front fender after taking inner fender well loose!

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member FM2NOTCH's Avatar
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    my 85 coupe has the black rocker moldings, look just like those in reply #10
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