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  1. #26
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    the US 4-BBL 4180C return line fuel pump in 5.0/5.8/370/460 engines
    Will one of these fit on the 200?

  2. #27
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Yes you can, but you have to fliup it over and rework the pump arm. The 4180c pump is upside down, and won't fit the I6 engine mount and cross member.

    I realise too that the US 83-85 4BBL HO GT 5.0 is just another unservicable fuel pump. Sorry for the missinformation, I knew it was a retutn line pump made by Carter, but was certian it was Carter servicable item like the Aussie 4.1 X-flow, but its not.

    All the I6 and Ford Windsor OHV, bOSS 302, the FE and Lima 385 V8 Fuel pumps (except the odd ball vertical bolt pattern 302-351 Cleveland/351 Midlands/ 400 Ford series 335's and probably some others ) run the same horizontal center spacing which you block off with the one size fits all # SUM 402035 plate form Summit.You can turn them up or down on an I6. Ford did it with the Bronco and Falcons, and just made the block fuel pump boss tall enough to take the gasket flipped up or down either way.

    You then have to use the right pump arm, and mount it the same way as in the Aussie X-flow, not the 4-bbl HO GT 5.0, as according to the
    Precision Mechanical Fuel Pump Part # M23029 Line: PFP picture,

    http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0401&ppt=C0025



    ^US 5.0 Fox return line fuel pump
    Does not equal
    v Aussie 3.3/4.1 x-flow return line pump



    in the I6 Fox, the engine mount stay and cross member will get in the way of the fuel lines if mounted as per the M 23029 picture above.

  3. #28

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    Well it seems the discussion has moved round to mechanical are better...

    and just in time too. Having just spent loads on electric fuel pumps and regulators i've now found somewhere that sells a mechanical fuel pump for my engine literally just round the corner for a fairly low price. Im off for christmas now so only just gotten time to phone and ask them! Been meaning to for ages. I will pick one up on Thursday as down I'm that anyway.

    In the meantime I'd still like to try and understand the electric alternative.
    Today I fitted the 803BP regulator to the car, IN from the new bigger Facet red top fuel pump, OUT to the filter in front of the carb. RETURN line into the vapour line as we'd talked about.
    Mounted it in the engine bay on the side of the suspension strut tower.

    As soon as i switch the pump on, starts running through and builds pressure then leaks straight out the bottom from where i've threaded a hosetail into the return line port. Started getting dark and cold so didn't have time to analyse it too much. But I'd taped the threads and run them in tight, so either the regulator was a dud or the vapour line simply isn't big enough to take that amount of return flow and it came out of any gap it could find. I know it isn't blocked though so don't know if this could even be an issue.

    I still have a brand new 804, but no way of doing any of the options you mentioned without buying parts that I can't seem to find locally. Can't find many gauges that even do 1-7psi let along in the right thread or fitting. Finding a 3/8 fitting that looks like it will take being drilled and tapped for a return line fitting also doesn't seem to be happening. They're all cheap quality flimsy things. Still looking into this with Option 1 being my main route at the moment, just trying to source the parts.

    So I will probably go mechanical again. At least if i can get an original specification one back on it I can get it running again.
    Assuming the mechanical pump arm on these engines sit above the oil line? Should be an easy change, won't loose a load of oil right?

  4. #29
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Its all good. The 804 just requires somne kind of smaller than carb inlet size to bleed back to the tank..its the easiest option. Finding the ideal parts in the UK isn't as easy, and it governs your next step.

    Going back to mechanical is easy if you can find one.

    Either way, you know you can make any option work, and you've got the best information.

    Many people will be stuck with electric pumps from EFI cars as replacments for mechanical fuel pumps on carb cars from here on in. It pays to understand how to use one safely on a Holley carb without ruining your purchased parts.


    A quick help on possible problems of overpressurizing is found on this brilliant post.
    https://fordsix.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=65818

    I'd say your UK suppliers would be able to source one of these

    The best bet , the Rolls Royce mechanical fuel pump for a Ford I6, is the Carter M4891 Super Strip pump for 350 Chevs It's a little X'y regards pounds purchase, but your English, and you'll maybee be able to find one cheaper if you network...


    http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/M4891/10002/-1

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    Turn it upside down, and do the lever arm change, then run your 804 with it to peal back line pressure.

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    That way you have the best fuel pump and the best fuel pressure limiter.

  5. #30

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    Hey all,

    Thought I should come back and update on progress - I've been rather busy on other projects since the start of the year so not been able to come back on here and even say what happened!

    I kept the Facet red top on the car, mounted at the back by the tank. After this there is a 40 micron filter, and then the fuel runs through the stock hard fuel line into the bay where I have a 12-804 (non bypass) mounted to the inside of the arch. The second output from this is blocked, and the pressure was set by ear and eye, so no idea what its set to but it works. This goes to another 40 micron filter before going into the carb.

    Currently no return line at all, and it's been running fine, the pump is showing no signs of fatigue yet.

    I had a little issue with fuel crystallization blocking the idle jet the other week as I'd not run the car properly in months but last week it drove a good 50+ miles without any problems at all, including sitting in a test bay with the engine running in a hot environment and no moving airflow to the radiator of about half hour. The engine bay was very hot and there were no pump overheating problems being that its now in the back of the car. The pressure regulator seems to keep the last filter by the carb full throughout operation (its a glass filter so I can keep an eye on what its all doing).

    So if anyone has any problems, this all seems to work at the moment. I will update if it all goes wrong and this pump dies prematurely!

    Thanks for your help everyone.

  6. #31
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Saul Goode, Ned.

    Um Terry.


    You've at least got enough info to avoid a bad screenplay in a Long Road To Ruin....

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