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  1. #51

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    Man dude thats sweet! Good job!

  2. #52
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    I posted this in the Production Numbers forum, but thought I may as well share it here too.

    Among the items that came with my coupe when i got it was the original bill of sale from September 1979. As you can see, the list of options is pretty limited and given the late in the model year sale, I'd say this little car spent a bit of time languishing on the dealers lot before it sold. Curiously, I did a quick 411 search for the original purchaser, and the address and phone number come up as still current. I haven't tried to contact him at all, and out of respect have blocked out the info on the documents. Not sure on the etiquette of contacting someone about a car they owned over thirty years ago. I expect he would be somewhat elderly now.

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    I also have the warranty tag and a buck tag from the car as well as what I think were tags off the seats, but I'm not completely sure as they were just loose in among the bags of fasteners from when i tore the car apart.

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    Last edited by BMW Rider; 03-16-2017 at 09:44 PM.

  3. #53
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Nice project!
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  4. #54
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Making more parts today. This time its a heater hose outlet to go into the intake with a port for the temperature sender. I need to use the other port in the intake for a temperature sensor for the EFI - either a Holley Terminator system or an MSD Atomic set up. I've seen pictures of these fittings, but no sources for them so figured I'd just make it. The brass should be much more corrosion resistant than the standard steel ones.

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    Last edited by BMW Rider; 03-16-2017 at 09:45 PM.

  5. #55
    FEP Super Member IDMooseMan's Avatar
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    I just finished reading this thread. Amazing project and even more amazing skills you have.
    Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
    1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
    USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
    To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
    2.3L Horsepower Potential Thread
    Buyer/Seller Experience Link
    Build Thread
    The Four-Eyed Game - 2018 Version

  6. #56
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    I came home from work Thursday morning to find a couple rather large boxes sitting in the front entry. It seems the UPS guy had left them with my wife while I was out.


    The seats I ordered over a month ago finally came in.

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    I figured the best place to store them is in the car, so I got busy and installed them. I wanted to have the seating sorted out so I can work on the dash and gauge layout knowing my sight line for positioning the gauges for best visibility. I got the Corbeau adjustable seat brackets as well, but I think I need to work on them a bit to get the seat where I need it to be. the roll cage bar interferes with the seat at full forward, so I'd like to move it inboard about 3/4" or so. I would also like to lower the rear of the seat a bit for more head clearance when wearing a helmet. I think I can work over the brackets sufficiently to accomplish these objectives.

    I also need to do some work for the belts. the inner lap belt mounting point is too far forward, so I'll have to add a new anchor further back. i also need to add a cross bar into the roll cage at the correct height for the shoulder belts so they are at the correct angle out the back of the seats.
    Last edited by BMW Rider; 03-16-2017 at 09:45 PM.

  7. #57
    FEP Power Member Mikestang's Avatar
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    Default 79 coupe build - street legal auto-crosser

    They look nice. Are they reclining or solid seats? Yeah moving the inner seat belt anchor back is a common need. I just move it back so it is the same distance back as the outside one. For sure add a big plate.

    You can see my plates in this pic, (end of the bolt has a purple color). I like I here because it centers it between these body ribs, it is stronger here.

    Last edited by Mikestang; 05-28-2015 at 11:08 PM.
    1986 Ford Mustang GT-

    Not much stock stuff left
    347 NA power, CNC ported heads, Extrude honed Trick Flow Intake, Custom Cam
    Suspension, custom k- member, TQ arm/pan hard rod... Much more
    Restored and ready to race, made to go fast while cornering

    1981 Mustang GT-

    Old SCCA A-Sedan National Champ car
    In the middle of rebuild

    1986 LX Sedan-

    Plans to be determined...

    "Every day I learn how much I don't know"

  8. #58
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Sorry for the delayed response, we were off riding through the US for the past week and a half.

    The seats are fixed back. I went that route since there is no way to recline them with the cage in the car and no back seat to gain access to either plus the weight saving of fixed versus the recliners was a factor.

    I figured I'd relocate the mount back to be pretty much inline with the outer one as you mentioned. Fabricating the plates will be no issue, I planned to make them at least the same size and thickness as the originals.

  9. #59
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    I've been working on the wiring for the car over the past few weeks; haven't really put a lot of time in at it continuously so its been minimally interesting progress. Part of the wiring job is getting all the components in place that need to be wired into the car. I picked up a set of Autometer gauges last month for the car ans got some aluminum to fabricate the instrument pane as well as a sheet to make the interior parts from.

    Today I laid out, cut out and mounted the gauges into the panel.

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    I have the templating cut and fitted for the dash, so the next job will be to start cutting and bending the aluminum for that. The template is just the basic fit, I will add some better detail to the actual metalwork.

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    Last edited by BMW Rider; 03-16-2017 at 09:47 PM.

  10. #60

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    If you prefer to not make one Scott Rod makes a fox body aluminum dash. There is a car on this site with one.

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    http://scottrodfab.com/foxmustang.html#fox_interior

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  11. #61
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    I did consider the Scott Rod unit, but decided to build my own for a couple reasons. i contacted them and they said they were about six to eight weeks out from order to shipping, plus the shipping to Canada was a bit costly. For about the same price as their dash, I was able to get enough aluminum to do the dash and pretty much all of the interior panels as well. I all ready have a sheet metal break and other tools to do the work, so the only added investment is time.

  12. #62
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    82GTforME's Avatar
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    This is such a cool car and even more impressive in person. I can't wait to see it finished!

  13. #63

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    Quote Originally Posted by BMW Rider View Post
    I did consider the Scott Rod unit, but decided to build my own for a couple reasons. i contacted them and they said they were about six to eight weeks out from order to shipping, plus the shipping to Canada was a bit costly. For about the same price as their dash, I was able to get enough aluminum to do the dash and pretty much all of the interior panels as well. I all ready have a sheet metal break and other tools to do the work, so the only added investment is time.
    Yes. a 6-8 week wait and high shipping cost would make the decision pretty easy.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  14. #64
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Got quite a bit of the dash fabricated today. I still need to build end caps and some bracing in the middle, plus a few more things to mount into it. The heater controls will go in just right of center and I will add an air vent on each end that will be fed off the cowl vents.

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    The plastic skin is still on the aluminum until I get done all the cutting work.

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    Gauge view.

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    Defroster vents in the top. I used the original ducting and fitted it into the aluminum.

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    These are the air vents for the front. They came out of a late model Ford truck at PnP.

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    Passenger side view.
    Last edited by BMW Rider; 03-16-2017 at 09:49 PM.

  15. #65

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    Looks good!

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  16. #66
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    I finished up the bulk of the fabrication on the dash today. All that's left is to make a couple brackets to secure the ends to the body and I'll need to build a bracket or panel to mount the fuse block into. I still need to connect the heater controls, but will have to modify the cables making them shorter to fit. The temperature control cable has both ends broken so I would like to find a new one of those to work with. The lock tabs are broke off, so it does not stay in place.

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    Last edited by BMW Rider; 03-16-2017 at 09:50 PM.

  17. #67
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    That looks fantastic and professionally done (and looks better without the white plastic on the aluminum)!!

  18. #68
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Thanks Darran, I am pretty pleased with how it came out. That was the most challenging of the aluminum parts for the interior too. The rest is all mostly flat pieces and will get done later on. I needed the dash done now so I can get the wiring in place and sorted out.

  19. #69
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    Very nice work.

  20. #70
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Looks good! Do you have any issues with the passenger side "tin canning" on you? That is usually the issue I have when doing this type of sheetmetal work.

    Good Luck!

    Trey
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Awaiting Restoration
    1984 SVO Restoration in Progress
    1986 GT Wrecked by PO, but still want to save!

    Current Capris:
    1982 Capri Roller
    1984 Capri Returned to Bubble Back Glory
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
    1982 Capri RS 5.0 4spd T-tops

  21. #71
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    The only place I'm seeing a bit of buckling is the thin strips that are left ahead of the defrost vents in the tops. When I tighten down the screws to the body it wants to buckle a bit there. Haven't decided if its enough of an issue to worry about yet or to try to correct. I might fabricate some decorative grills to go over them and see if that fixes it. That can come later on, right now I just need to get enough of the dash built so I can get the wiring in.

    The front faces are staying nice and flat and no oil canning effect on the larger blank passenger side. I could roll a decorative bead into it if there was, but flat looks cleaner as long as its stable. I do want to add a brace near the center though as the middle of the dash still has a bit of flex and may vibrate since the engine is on solid mounts and there is little forgiveness in the suspension either. I did make an internal brace as part of the dash so the top and front are solid to each other, now I just need to tie the center to the body or firewall somehow.

  22. #72
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Not much progress over the past month as I have been distracted with the two wheeled toys. I am anticipating getting back at it more later in September and October. Still have the goal of getting it running this winter and with that in mind I went shopping last week.

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    It was a rather expensive trip to the speed shop. I also have been gathering up odds and ends of electrical connectors, terminals and such to do up the wiring.

    I did take a bit of time to fit the modules and the coil into the engine bay and dropped the EFI in place on the manifold.

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    I now have pretty much everything that needs wired into the car so can get the rats nest mess cleaned up and everything tied in. I expect it will take more than a few days work to do it right as I'm pretty particular about neat tidy wiring. I was a bit surprised even with the factory harnesses after opening them up how sloppy some of the original work is. I'll be fixing those issues too.
    Last edited by BMW Rider; 03-16-2017 at 09:51 PM.

  23. #73
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Picked up some items from an 81 Capri at PnP yesterday. Almost a complete set of mouldings, just missing the front most ones which are different on the Capri as the marker light is located in them. Passenger side remote mirror to go with the drivers one I got a while back. My car did not even have a passenger side mirror originally. Also got a V8 throttle cable from a Faimont as I discovered my original 4 cylinder one is wrong for a V8.

  24. #74
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    Nice finds at the JY! I know I have some spare moldings around somewhere. If I can find them, I'll look for the front ones you need. I'll trade you for an under hood light!

  25. #75
    FEP Supporter BMW Rider's Avatar
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    I saw this Capri posted in the Western Foxbody FB group and was excited to see that the mouldings were there. I couldn't get there until yesterday and was worried someone might have beat me to them. The one rear one was pulled off all ready, but was left there and one other had some impact damage leaving it curled a bit too. I carefully removed the rest with a putty knife to keep them flat. I've got a few other assorted short pieces that I picked up from someone a while ago. I need to find where I stashed them to see which ones they are and if they are the ones to complete a set. I will need to do some work on these to clean them up, and the stripe is the wrong colour which I can fix unless a good set of correct ones turns up before I get round to needing these.

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