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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    Default Car stalls when turning on heat/defrost

    My son's 83GT stalls when you turn the heat/defrost switch on. You can restart it in the heat position but not the defrost setting. Is this a electrical or vacuum problem?
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  2. #2

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    Sounds almost like the compressor is locked up.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
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  3. #3
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    Default

    I forgot to mention the A/C has been deleted.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  4. #4

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    But are the wires for the fan clutch terminated correctly? Are they grounding out on the block when he turns on defrost?

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    The dashpot on the carb/cfi activates when the AC is turned on, it's only a wild guess on my part, but it's possible that either the unit is leaking, or there's another vacuum line someplace that needs to be plugged. If it actually stalls the car, it would have to be a pretty huge leak, though, and I expect you'd be able to hear it.

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    It stalls at idle I haven't tried it while driving yet. We just bought the car and now we are finding all the problems unfortunatly.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member Jerry peachuer's Avatar
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    Default

    Don't turn the heat on and make sure the defrost is off when you start it that should work for you ....ha ha just kidding.

    The defroster wire is a pretty big gauge wire look at your rear window to find the color if it has not been spliced trace it down and un hook it just to see if that eliminates the possible direct short to your solenoid area where it hooks up
    As for a vac leak. A simple gauge test would rule that out quickly
    What is your RPM set at?? the initial draw or load on the system could overcome your curb idle just bump it to 900 rpm see if that works or if it is any better some cars have a kicker solenoid to bump idle up to help the strain from the on demand power accessories also check fuse panel and make sure fuses are properly sized and if you find some real artist work look the car overt with a magnify glass to be certain it's safe to drive
    Congradulations on your purchase

  8. #8

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    Let's be clear here - We are talking about the HVAC system, not rear window defrost?

    The A/C idle kicker on an '83 GT is electrical, with no vacuum connection. (There were no CFI GTs in '83.) And I
    have never known the HVAC vacuum system itself to flow enough to cause a stall if you switch to a mode with a
    leaking vacuum motor. And besides, defrost is the one setting that does not operate any vacuum motor.

    The compressor would have been a great guess if this car still had one. Apart from that, the compressor clutch
    circuit is still highly suspect, unless this doesn't happen when the control is in either of the A/C positions. Likewise
    if the throttle kicker is involved in this somehow.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

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  9. #9
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    Let's be clear here - We are talking about the HVAC system, not rear window defrost?

    The compressor would have been a great guess if this car still had one. Apart from that, the compressor clutch
    circuit is still highly suspect, unless this doesn't happen when the control is in either of the A/C positions. Likewise
    if the throttle kicker is involved in this somehow.
    I just tested it in the A/C setting and it dies. It will die in the Defrost setting and the A/C settings, but is OK in the heat and vent settings. How and what do I look for to fix this? I also noticed that the flow of air only comes out of the defrost vents. I can post a picture of the engine compartment if that helps.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  10. #10

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    I would turn in the ac and try to start it with a spare plug inserted in the coil wire. I'll bet you have a really weak or no spark. If the heater box hasn't been changed then you should have a pressure switch on the dryer (big silver can). Disconnect this and try again. It really sounds Luke a dead short to me and you need to elinate the power that went to the ac pump.

  11. #11

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    If the A/C system is empty, the Low Pressure CutOut switch is as good as unplugged already. But that doesn't
    eliminate the kicker solenoid from possibly being involved in this somehow. So that would be a good thing to
    try disconnecting.

    But if any of these things is enough to electrically cause the engine to die, you really need to examine your
    ignition switch, sooner rather than later.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    If the A/C system is empty, the Low Pressure CutOut switch is as good as unplugged already. But that doesn't
    eliminate the kicker solenoid from possibly being involved in this somehow. So that would be a good thing to
    try disconnecting.

    But if any of these things is enough to electrically cause the engine to die, you really need to examine your
    ignition switch, sooner rather than later.
    I finally replaced the ignition switch and no change at all.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  13. #13
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    Since the car had AC, it would be easy to rule out the HVAC control panel by blocking off the vacuum source under the hood. It's a simple test. The HVAC controls fall apart when the bracket breaks on the back side.
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  14. #14
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    Since the car had AC, it would be easy to rule out the HVAC control panel by blocking off the vacuum source under the hood. It's a simple test. The HVAC controls fall apart when the bracket breaks on the back side.
    I'll be checking the vacuum line, but the fan isn't working as well.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  15. #15
    FEP Power Member STL79Coupe's Avatar
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    Finally got this all figured out. Most of the problem was a ton of bad wiring and one vacum line was unhooked. The switch panel was also broken.
    Keith formerly STLPONDS
    '79 V8 coupe in the works!
    Build thread http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=89153

  16. #16
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    Congrats on getting to the bottom of this one.
    Dave

    If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?

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