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  1. #1

    Default Want to make my 85 Mustang 3.8l back to stock (including emissions)

    Hi, I recently bought a 1985 Ford mustang convertible 3.8l and it is for the most part unmolested and all original. The only thing that was done was the Smog Pump was deleted and the vacuum lines cut/plugged.

    I was wondering if anyone has any experience in returning this car back to factory emissions? A new smog pump came with the car so I replaced it and found that I have 2 vacuum lines plugged and another one dangling from the AIR filter. I am unable to make sense of the vacuum diagram from Auto Zone and cannot figure out which vacuum lines need to be connected to what.

    If anyone has any pictures of a bone stock 85 mustang 3.8 engine that would be great or just some general tips on what I should be looking for to connect these vacuum hoses back to where they need to be.

    The car has a very rough idle right now from what I feel like is a vacuum leak from this once plugged emissions stuff.

    Thanks for any help you can offer

  2. #2

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    Do you have the bypass/diverter valve(s)? I believe the '85 3.8 used the combo style, but I'm not certain.
    If you need one, check out this listing - http://www.ebay.com/itm/380975644320

    The vacuum hookups for the air injection are actually simpler on the CFI engines, because both functions
    are controlled by solenoids in the assembly on the driver side fender apron. The bypass function, which is
    the diaphragm on top of the assembly, is controlled by the solenoid fed by the white/red dot wire. The
    diverter function, which is the diaphragm on the side, is controlled by the solenoid fed by the light green/
    black dot wire.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  3. #3

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    Yes my 85 3.8 has the Diverter valve and all of the bigger hoses are still connected to it but the 2 smaller vacuum hoses are not connected. Both nipples on the Diverter have a small tube with an L connecter but both have plugs in them. I am trying to determine what to connect these 2 vacuum hoses to. I also have one that is on the air filter housing (next to the one connected to the vacuum motor) that just has a hose dangling and not connected to anything. I also have 3 colored hoses that run along the firewall and are cut right next to the passenger firewall. I will be able to post a picture a little later if this will help any.

  4. #4

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    The color of these hoses are green, black, and white(maybe yellow)

  5. #5

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    The combo valve takes the hose from the pump into the upper horizontal nipple, the lower horizontal nipple
    connects to the cylinder head air tube, and the nipple that points downward connects to the catalyst air tube.

    The small hoses connect to the solenoids I described, on the driver side fender apron. The most accurate way
    to tell which hose is which without a diagram, is to start at the solenoid end, and see what color that hose is.
    You will want to verify the diaphragms still hold vacuum, and that the diverter still seals off the cylinder head
    feed when vacuum is applied. That second part is important, because you don't want any extra air affecting
    what the oxygen sensors see.

    On my '85 5.0, the solenoid bank has a pair of solenoids at the front, on a common bracket, that are EGR apply
    and vent. The EGR apply tube is green, and the vent hose runs back to the air cleaner flange on the throttle body.
    There is a double solenoid that controls TAB and TAD, as described above. The TAB uses a pink tube, while the
    TAD tube is black. I believe all of these would be the same on a 3.8, other than perhaps the color of the tubing.

    I also have a single solenoid at the rear of the assembly, that controls the throttle kicker, using a blue tube. On a
    3.8, that solenoid would control the exhaust heat riser valve instead. It is fed by a white wire, but I do not know
    what color the vacuum tube would be on a 3.8. Perhaps this one has your white or yellowish tube?

    The hose on the air filter housing sounds like it may be the manifold vacuum feed to the air cleaner vacuum motor,
    but that's just a guess at this point.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  6. #6

    Default

    Ok that is starting to make sense, but I will have to get my hands on to really understand it. But I will upload some pictures that may help figure this out.

    These little hoses that feed all the way around the firewall to the solenoids have been cut near the smog pump and it seems that this little hose does not connect to the bigger vacuum hose and there is a piece that distributes them like the one over by the solenoids (connects the hoses from solenoid to the vacuum reservoir). Do you know what connects these smaller hoses with the bigger ones? The 3 colored hoses were taped together with electrical tape when I got this car and when unwrapping them they are all just loose hoses running back to the solenoids on the opposite side of car. So what piece do I need to connect these small colored hoses to the TAB and TAD?

  7. #7

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    Can you get some pics? Pics with the air filter assembly removed would be very helpful here. And then pics of the area around your Bypass (and) Diverter valves, and of the area around the TAB/TAD solenoids would really make it easier. Maybe a link to the AZ diagram. A pick of the air filter housing would be good too, if you can swing it.


    You might just try reading that vacuum diagram every day, until you understand it. Posting and reading here will at least familiarize you with the terminology, and should help you understand abbreviations on that diagram.
    However, the best diagram is the one Ford stuck under your hood, assuming you have the original hood. It takes a little effort, but you can learn to read and understand the vacuum diagram, just like an electrical schematic.

    It's basically a pair of air circuits. There's the vacuum circuit which controls the whole thing, and then there's the Secondary Air circuit, which blows Downstream to the exhaust or Upstream to the heads, or else dumps the Air on the ground.

    Then you've got whatever sensor system, which the vacuum/control portion references. (Computer or thermo-mechanical.)
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  8. #8

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    Okay here are the pictures.

    There was a diagram on the hood, and yes it was much easier to read and I also included a picture of it down below. I am still wondering exactly how this all connects together with the difference in hose diameters.

    This is the Diagram on the hood.

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    These are the small vacuum lines that are all tied together and run to the TAB and TAD. The green one does connect to the EGR (In the picture behind the cut hoses).

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    This is the 2 vacuum hoses I found with a plug in them. I removed the hoses that had the golf tees in them and these are the 2 L shaped connectors they were connected to. These are located directly behind the smog pump into the diverter valve? ( I could be wrong there I am not sure?) Circled in red are the connectors that were plugged and the arrow is where they connect.

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    This one is a the vacuum line that was only connected to the air filter housing. Do not know where that one needs to go also.

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    When I got this car it has everything stock and the owner was in the process of deleting the smog pump but did not have a short belt. The car came with a brand new smog pump that I replaced after receiving the car. I assume that all of these vacuum lines were chopped and plugged in attempt to do the smog pump delete.

    Thank you again for the help.

  9. #9

    Default

    Awesome documentation!
    Now it's as simple as matching the components listed on the sticker, with what you have under the hood. You can see where it is labeled "front of car." the rest of the diagram corresponds to where the rest of the components are as well.
    There are a couple of traces/lines which are worn off of the VECI label, but you can cross reference the AutoZone diagram if your decal can't be read in person.
    It looks like you have the combination Bypass/Diverter valve.

    I'm not familiar with the two lines to the PCV valve, and I don't know what the A/CL DV and the EFCA are, however.
    '88 Mustang GT convertible, T5, 3.08:1 gears. 5.0 Explobra Jet: A9L Mass Air conversion, Fenderwell Mac cold air intake, 70mm MAF meter = 4.6 T-Bird/Cougar housing + '95 Mustang F2VF-12B579-A1A sensor, aftermarket 70mm throttle body and spacer, Explorer intakes, GT40P heads with Alex's Parts springs and drilled for thermactor, Crane F3ZE-6529-AB 1.7 "Cobra" roller rockers, Ford Racing P50 headers, Mac H-pipe, Magnaflow catback, Walbro 190 LPH fuel pump, UPR firewall adjuster and quadrant with Ford OEM cable, 3G conversion ('95 Mustang V6), Taurus fan, rolled on Rustoleum gloss white paint...
    Past Four Eyes: Red well optioned '82 GT 5.0, Black T-top '81 Capri Black Magic 3.3L 4 speed, Black T-top '84 Capri RS 5.0 5 speed.Over 200,000 miles driven in Four Eyes, and over 350,000 in Fox Body cars.

  10. #10

    Default

    Those white 90-degree fittings in the hoses -are- the adapters for the tubing. If they still have the remains
    of broken-off tubes in them, you will need to dig those out with a pick.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  11. #11

    Default

    Thanks, I am getting some parts today to join these vacuum lines. I still don't know where the vacuum hose in the last picture goes. There is 2 hoses coming off the air filter housing, one to the Vac motor, and the other one is connected right next to it but does not run to anything. It is fairly long and reaches up near the smog pump also. Any clue to where this might go?

  12. #12

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    After digging into it today i cannot find the canister purge control valve (purge cv on the diagram). Where is this located or should be located on the car.

    This is the part i am lookng for http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei..._jtt_v_thumb=1
    Last edited by Lwill014; 10-23-2014 at 09:17 AM.

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
    Join Date
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    Default

    I love that someone is actually wanting to restore and preserve the original engine setup. I see so many people dump the engine for a 5.0, or something else. I don't have a problem with the V-8 engine...I love them, in fact. It's just so refreshing to see this.
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible

  14. #14

    Default

    The link doesn't work for me, but it appears your car uses a mechanical vacuum-operated purge valve
    similar to what the carbureted 5.0s use. The purge valve should be in the area near the vapor canister,
    on the passenger side fender apron. The control line for the purge valve tees into the vacuum line to
    the EGR valve, and purge flow appears to tie into the "F" fitting on top of the PCV valve.

    I had wondered why I didn't see a canister purge valve for this engine in the electrical diagrams, now
    I understand why. The parts listings, not surprisingly, are wrong.

    The valve you're looking for should look something like this one -

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    Last edited by JACook; 10-23-2014 at 10:05 AM.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  15. #15

    Default

    Definitely have not seen that anywhere. I may be missing this completely but I do not even see where this would hook up to.
    Last edited by Lwill014; 10-23-2014 at 10:13 AM.

  16. #16

    Default

    Do you have the vapor canister?
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  17. #17

    Default

    Yes I have the vapor canister. It is located directly under my battery. Although looking at the canister there may be something missing from it. It has 2 ports coming out of the top and 1 is open completely (can see inside of it) and the other port has a fuel line I believe that connects to it and runs back thro my cabin. Is there supposed to be something connected to the other port? Is this where the valve should be?

  18. #18

    Default

    The open port should have a mushroom cap on it. The other port should have both the vapor line from the tank, and a connection to
    the purge valve, which apparently you will have to buy. Note that photo I posted is from Rock Auto, listed for the carbureted '85 GT.
    If you're wanting original, the Motorcraft number is CX-330.

    The hoses to the valve were originally terminated in a single rubber connector block, which would have to be sourced from a donor.
    Or just plug on individual hoses. The diagram shows an accurate representation of how this connects, albeit in only two dimensions.

    The hose to the intake manifold (or PCV valve) connects to the lower port, the hose from the canister connects to the center port,
    and the control vacuum from the EGR valve circuit connects to the smaller top port. Notice the diagram shows a restrictor orifice in
    the hose from the purge valve to the PCV. That's kinda important, to prevent excess purge flow from creating a lean condition at part
    throttle. The original orifice would have beendark red, possibly with a yellow paint dot on it. The orifice size is ~.098". If you don't
    have the orifice, it turns out it's pretty easy to approximate, by stuffing a short length of 3/32" vacuum hose in one end of the purge
    hose that goes to the PCV valve.

    Your missing mushroom cap will look a lot like this one - http://www.ebay.com/itm/231276033576 These caps can also be easily
    found in salvage yards.
    Last edited by JACook; 10-23-2014 at 03:28 PM.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  19. #19
    FEP Supporter
    82GTforME's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gemini1999 View Post
    I love that someone is actually wanting to restore and preserve the original engine setup. I see so many people dump the engine for a 5.0, or something else. I don't have a problem with the V-8 engine...I love them, in fact. It's just so refreshing to see this.
    Agreed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    I think this is my favorite car on the site right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI
    This is the best thread on the internet.
    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) GT T-Top:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...um-Blue-Bomber!

  20. #20

    Default

    This is what I pulled off the vapor canister. There is supposed to be 2 lines going to it but I only have one and the other nipple for the hose is broke off ( hard to tell in the picture but the bottom one is broken). Is this what should be there or do I need that Purge valve?

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  21. #21

    Default

    That's what is supposed to be there. The tank vapor line connects to one nipple, and the purge valve connects
    to the other. That's gonna be a salvage yard find.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  22. #22

    Default

    Ok. So the purge valve u put a picture of is what im missing? I looked at a few junk yards. Havent seen any four eyes so i may have to order it. Would this valve be on any other mustang?

    Thanks for all ur help JACook and eveyone else that has responded. I am only missing this purge valve for this car to be back to bone stock and road ready.

  23. #23

    Default

    That valve was used on lots of different Ford cars and trucks for many years. Don't confine your search to Fox
    Mustangs. As I mentioned, the one in the photo is for a carbureted '85 GT. But any valve that has the same hose
    nipple configuration will work just fine.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  24. #24

    Default

    This vacuum thing has been a real PITA. I still have yet to get it right, the car still runs funny and stalls when i start it up unless i give it gas for a little bit, then after that it still spudders. I have gotten the Purge valve and installed the vacuum how the diagram shows but maybe i am not reading it correctly. I have the small black line and the whiteish pink line both connecting to the ACV and then the green vacuum line running to the Purge valve. The purge valve is connected to the vapor canister, and the pcv.

    I am still having a problems with rough idle and stalling and also have black sought coming out of the exhaust pipe.

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