How many are still around? Still having problems, it never seems to end. One day it will run, My 1979 Mustang.
How many are still around? Still having problems, it never seems to end. One day it will run, My 1979 Mustang.
A Project in the Works:
79 Mustang Ghia Coupe. Thumper Ported E7 Heads. Weiand Steath Intake. E303 W/ 1.6 RR
9 Pos. D\R Timing Chain. Holley 600, Hedman Headers. Dual Exhaust w\ Flowmasters.
TCI Breakaway Converter. C-4 W/ Shift Kit. 8.8 GT Rear. FMS 4:10 Gears.
Front & Rear Suspension:
FMS Front C\A, BBK C\C Plates, E\S Swaybar bushings & End Links
BBK Rear U\L C\A's, BBk Lowering Springs & Isolators
BBK Subframe Connectors, Comp. Adj. Shocks, GT Rear Sway Bar.
1985 Rust Bucket Donor Car for Interior, Front Nose and other Misc Parts.
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=147989
thanks
Last edited by FM2NOTCH; 10-17-2014 at 08:52 AM.
*FOXTOBERFEST* 2015 http://www.foxmustangrestoration.com/events
85 T Top coupe 5.0 2R red, E7's, rpm intake, 4180 carb, 7.4 1/8
83 CC capri 5.0 5 speed,black mesh wheels
76 cobra II 302 auto black/gold, big cam 3 inch dumps- sold to a good friend
92 coupe 5.0 5 speed -red
92 Lx hatch 5.0 5 speed -black, 66 coupe 5.0 4 spd (project)
87 Vert 5.0 AOD red stock as a rock
" Are you sure you know what you're talking about? It kinda sounds like you know what you're talking about"
I guess 35 year old cars can't be perfect all of the time and projects never go as smooth as one would expect. Are you looking for a tech to help? Probably not a lot anymore that can do much other than the basics to an old car.
My boss bought a 68 fastback this past spring and took it to a dealership to fix a shifter seal leak in the tranny. They fixed that but apparently damaged the rear main seal R&Ring the tranny. My boss took it back and they couldn't even source and get a replacement seal for a 289. My boss got one himself and supplied it to them and he got his car back almost a week later!
Google and youtube have helped me a lot along.
DarranOriginally Posted by BLUECRAPI
1982-1C (Black) GT T-Top:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...um-Blue-Bomber!
Older cars can be a problem at times. I got a bit of a reality check on my way home last night. It seems they shut down the freeway for a man hunt. After 2 hours of sitting, traffic slowly cleared only to find I had to dodge cars which broke down or overheated during the wait, Sure one car in front of me blew the tank out of the radiator but it was the other 25 dead cars which I had to dodge for the next mile which shocked me. They were all makes and models bit I only noticed the newer ones. I sat in my 30 year old McLaren Capri and watched then temp gauge go up just slightly. I then turned off the engine for the duration.
Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles
I demand turn-key reliability from my cars, regardless of age. But if I had to send them out for someone else
to make them right, I don't know where I would turn, or if I wouldn't just sell them off and buy something
newer. People often ask me where they can take their cars for repair, and I have to tell them I haven't a clue,
because I can't think of a single local shop that I would let work on my car.
This is partially an age and experience thing, but more importantly, it's a consequence of the commoditization
of auto parts and service, where everything is dictated by who can give the lowest estimate over the phone.
Used to be, you couldn't call yourself a real mechanic if you didn't know how to rebuild an alternator, rather than
just pulling a reman out of a box and bolting it in. Along with the commoditization comes the whole dumbing-
down of the trade in general, where parts swapping has become an acceptable substitute for diagnostic ability,
even for the so-called "experts" at the dealerships. You can find exceptions, of course, but those exceptions are
routinely discouraged by lack of recognition, and compensation commensurate with their abilities. Eventually the
exceptional ones seek other employment in a different line of work.
I should think the southeast would be a fairly easy place to find mechanics with old-school skills, what with all
the short tracks around. But you probably won't find them at the Sears auto center, or even at a Ford dealer.
Cheers,
Jeff Cook
'85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
'79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
'68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune
Not only good mechanics are far and few between. Try to find a good parts counter person.
One who knows parts, and not just how to look up numbers on a computer.
Ray
86 Mustang LX 3.8 Convertible (bought new}
65 Galaxie 500 XL 390 auto
2A
The way things are going, you may not even find a Sears anymore (or Radio Shack, or JC Pennies, or ...).
Part of the reason I've been vacillating between getting a simple '65 Mustang (or Chevelle) or chucking everything and getting something small and less than 5 years old is both the fact there isn't as many good auto repair places and the repair parts are complete garbage. As JACOOK mentioned, it used to be one could get a rebuild kit or just the brushes for alternators and starters. I guess all those went the way of the Motorcraft point distributor tune up kits which included rotor, points, and a bit of cam lube. Maybe H.G. Wells will be right: Mankind will become so dependent on technology he will no longer be able to fix the machines when they wear out or break.
I hate cars.
Proud owner of the one and only Friggin' Futura
Well found out the flywheel came loose. Don't look like blue or red thread lock was used. Also don't have this plate. Should I have one?
A Project in the Works:
79 Mustang Ghia Coupe. Thumper Ported E7 Heads. Weiand Steath Intake. E303 W/ 1.6 RR
9 Pos. D\R Timing Chain. Holley 600, Hedman Headers. Dual Exhaust w\ Flowmasters.
TCI Breakaway Converter. C-4 W/ Shift Kit. 8.8 GT Rear. FMS 4:10 Gears.
Front & Rear Suspension:
FMS Front C\A, BBK C\C Plates, E\S Swaybar bushings & End Links
BBK Rear U\L C\A's, BBk Lowering Springs & Isolators
BBK Subframe Connectors, Comp. Adj. Shocks, GT Rear Sway Bar.
1985 Rust Bucket Donor Car for Interior, Front Nose and other Misc Parts.
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=147989
That plate is only used with automatic transmission flexplates, and even then you don't always see one.
Also, automatic and manual use different length bolts, so make sure you have the correct ones.
I don't normally use Loctite on those, but I do use thread sealer. If they're properly torqued, I've never
had one loosen up.
Cheers,
Jeff Cook
'85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
'79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
'68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune
I bought my 84 gt 350 in 1996 and use to could not drive it to town and back without something breaking. but after 18 years and who knows how much money I've spent, I can now drive it to work, that is a 23 mile one way trip, with no problems. but one thing I can say "knock on wood" it has never failed to limp back home before it died.
GonnaGoFast,
As long as you have the time and determination you can and probably should do everything yourself. This website, Google, and common sense are all you need as long as you have tools and aren't afraid to turn a wrench.
Last month, I helped a guy pull the engine out and put it back in a corvette. Before he started, I talked to him for a little while and realized how little he actually knew about what he was getting into. He had never done anything like this before and rebuilt it himself. I only helped take it out and put it in because it is easier with two people. He did make a couple small mistakes, and it took longer than he planned, but it's not rocket science.
As for local places, I stopped in at a popular performance shop that does a lot of local cars right near Gainesville Raceway. I hope they are keeping the guys with knowledge in the back of the shop at the dyno, but everyone I have talked to there didn't seem to know much more than a chain auto parts guy. The prices of what they have in stock are really high, and to me it's not worth it if I have to pay extra to explain something to somebody I am buying from.
I am in Gainesville, which isn't that close to Homosassa, but if you really need help let me know.
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