Everything on Fuse 16 out

[DSTdrummer]

So I plugged something in to the lighter last week, and everything on the circuit went out. Obviously a fuse has blown. Popped off the lower dash, pull the fuse....it looks fine. Just to be sure, I put a new one in. Nothing. I took the whole console out and metered the connectors at the lighter and clock. I have 12v at the clock and like 2.3v at the lighter, but nothing on that circuit will work. Horn, cruise, clock and lighter. I am not ashamed to say, electrical is not my thing. But it seems if I have power, these things should be working, yeah?
I'm stumped and taking suggestions on where to look next.
Thanks fellas

Donnie

'86 GT Convertible
Bright Red(Jalapeño Red) w/Oxford White Leather

[liv2roc]

if all fuses are good check under the hood next to the starter relay. there are a lot of fuse link there that could have burned out. you will see them if they are blowed because the wire covering will be melted.

[DSTdrummer]

Ok, my buddy was talking about the fuseable links. I looked between the coil and battery and saw them. So they will be burned/melted?


Donnie

'86 GT Convertible
Bright Red(Jalapeño Red) w/Oxford White Leather

[JACook]

OK you didn't specify, so I'm gonna assume this is regarding the '86 in your sig... Fuse 16 on an '86 does
not have it's own fusible link. The power feed for fuse 16 is shared with fuses 4, 8, and 12, and also the
feed to the headlight circuit breaker. Fuse 16 supplies Horn Lighter, and Clock. (Cruise is Fuse 6, and also
the brake switch, which comes from fuse 1)

The 12V you see at the clock could be back-feed from fuse 6 if you're checking with the ignition on, so for
now, let's presume nothing on that circuit actually works. The only connector involved here is at the console,
so you may actually have a bad crimp right at the fuse holder itself. The outbound side of Fuse 16 has both
the yellow/light blue wire to the horn relay, and light blue/white wire to the clock and lighter crimped together
at the fuse block. But do make sure the terminals grip the fuse well, and you don't have one that's pushing
back into the socket when you plug in the fuse.

You haven't mentioned other things in the dash behaving strangely, but I'm still gonna suggest you check the
main dash ground, which is on the lower frame between the radio and glovebox.

[DSTdrummer]

Wow, now THATS an answer. Lol.

Yes it's my '86. Nothing else is acting strange, only those four. I did meter across the fuse terminals themselves and got 12v also.
This just came out if nowhere. I haven't been in the fuse block but I will check them to see if they are pushing back, never know. Now, while under there, I noticed a black wire with a large eye connector on it hanging from what looks to be the front speaker area. I did ground it to see if anything changed but nothing did. Isn't there an amp up in there?


Donnie

'86 GT Convertible
Bright Red(Jalapeño Red) w/Oxford White Leather

[JACook]

Whether or not there's an amp depends on what radio your car came with. But regardless, the amp does not
ground using a plain black wire. There is a black/white hash wire that should connect from the amplifier case,
to the stud on the back of the radio. And the main dash ground is a plain black wire, so...

When you're taking measurements, make sure you have a load on the circuit so you don't read false positives.
Digital meters are sensitive enough to see voltage where an analog meter would not. A test light is another
useful tool to eliminate false positives.

I would approach this by measuring for 12V to a known good ground at the yellow/light blue wire at the horn
relay, and also the light blue/white wire at the grey 4-pin console connector. Both of those originate at fuse 16.
The horn relay is mounted on the bracket above the glovebox.

In that same console connector, verify less than 0.1V on the black wire to a known good ground. Then verify
that wire also has <1 Ω resistance to a known good ground.

To verify any ground is good, you should see less than 1Ω between the ground and the negative battery post.

[DSTdrummer]

Thanks a BUNCH. I'm going to get under there soon, this weekend if not before.
I will report back.


Donnie

'86 GT Convertible
Bright Red(Jalapeño Red) w/Oxford White Leather

[homer302]

Wow, now THATS an answer. Lol.

This just came out if nowhere.

Donnie

'86 GT Convertible
Bright Red(Jalapeño Red) w/Oxford White Leather

That is not true according to Post #1. You plugged something in and THEN your problem arised.

So I plugged something in to the lighter last week, and everything on the circuit went out.
Donnie

'86 GT Convertible
Bright Red(Jalapeño Red) w/Oxford White Leather

What is the rating on the fuse installed in that circuit? Sounds to me like you could have blown everything up on that circuit when you plugged "something" into the lighter. Therefore, fuse did not blow but devices got destroyed. This would also explain why there is still power.

[DSTdrummer]

That is not true according to Post #1. You plugged something in and THEN your problem arised.

I was referring to the fact that I had not been in the fuse block, also stated in that response, as a statement to work the problem referring to the terminals being pushed in. I'm not certain that particular issue would happen, "out of nowhere".
At any rate, whether or not it fits your definition of, "out of nowhere", is irrelevant really. I included that information so as to help in the solution of the problem.

What is the rating on the fuse installed in that circuit? Sounds to me like you could have blown everything up on that circuit when you plugged "something" into the lighter. Therefore, fuse did not blow but devices got destroyed. This would also explain why there is still power.

I believe it is a 15A fuse. As for blowing stuff up? I guess it's possible, but highly unlikely as I'm not sure how the horn or cruise would quote unquote, blow up, I was worried the a wire had fried though. I'm going to have the dash out soon anyway to do heater core so unless I find something obvious this week end, that might be the time to trace wires. Agh, not looking forward to that.



Donnie

'86 GT Convertible
Bright Red(Jalapeño Red) w/Oxford White Leather

[homer302]

Then I would say the fuse is not the issue. 15A is not TOO big. Might be higher than OEM but it would blow pretty quick still. Interesting scenario you have there for sure.

[DSTdrummer]

I know right? Interesting indeed.
Yeah, I checked the fuse and saw it was good and I actually stared at it for a few seconds confused and surprised. So I put a new one in thinking, well, it can't hurt. I dunno. I hate electrical issues for sure.


Donnie

'86 GT Convertible
Bright Red(Jalapeño Red) w/Oxford White Leather

[mustangxtreme]

Just because a fuse looks good doesn't mean it is. The only way to know for sure is to put an ohm meter on it and look for continuity.

[JACook]

Always good to test the fuses, and if things aren't making sense, test the new one too. I'm sure there is a perfectly
logical explanation for this problem, you just have to take things in a step-by-step approach to narrow the problem
down until you find it.

Electrons really aren't magic, they obey the same laws of physics everything else does.

[DSTdrummer]

Good advice. I still haven't had time to get back to it yet. I'll report back soon.


Donnie

'86 GT Convertible
Bright Red(Jalapeño Red) w/Oxford White Leather