The orange/light blue wire was never the turn-on feed to the regulator. It supplied the field current -from- the regulator
"F" terminal to the alternator "FLD" terminal. You won't see anything on that wire unless it's connected to the regulator,
AND the regulator is turned on via the light green/red wire that originally went to the regulator "S" terminal.
You should no longer have the 1G regulator, so I'm not sure what to make of your connector still being plugged into what
appears to be a shiny new 1G regulator. Some 3G swap kits offer an optional 'dummy' regulator that internally jumpers
the light green/red wire to the orange/light blue wire. You would then connect the far end of the orange/light blue wire to
the "I" terminal on the 3G regulator. I don't know if that's what you have, but there's little point in leaving the actual 1G
regulator in place on any 3G swap. If it is a regulator, I wouldn't assume it's any good.
Were you able to get a better look at that cut-off orange wire? Does it have a light blue tracer? You could also verify by
measuring for < 1Ω resistance between the cut-off end, and the orange/light blue wire in the 1G regulator connector. If
it's not that wire, I'm at a loss to say what else it might be.
The reason you need to disconnect the coil and TFI connectors is to make sure there aren't other current paths in parallel
with the resistor, that will affect the resistance measurement. For all you know right now, the resistor could be open, and
you're measuring something else.
I don't know your specific meter, but it should have come with an instruction book that shows the indicators. You may be
able to download another copy if yours has gone missing. It seems you have an autoranging meter, that does not have
multiple knob positions for x1, x1K, x20K etc... Those will normally display a 'K' when measuring 1KΩ or greater, or an 'M'
when measuring 1MΩ or greater. Measure one of your new 22KΩ resistors, to see what the display should look like.
Connect With Us