Rebuild or replace the transmission?

[scarecrow]

Well after a year or so of saving up I think I might have the money to fix my transmission problems! I'm unsure whether I should just rebuild or replace now. I've had my 85 GT for little over a year now.. it's drivable but I have to do certain things. I'm guessing the synchros are bad. I have to put it in 2nd before I go into 1st. If I go straight into 1st it'll grind. When going from 1st to 2nd I have to shift slowly or it'll grind. Sometimes going into 5th will grind. If 5th doesn't grind it takes a while for it to go in, and usually doesn't go in until my RPMs are at idle. Also before going into reverse I have to put it into 5th or reverse will grind, but I think that might be normal because I know reverse isn't synchronized. 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th shift pretty smooth.

So what do you guys suggest? I'm unsure of what kind of power I'm putting down. All I know is that the car seems heavily modified. What's the difference between the regular T5 and the heavy duty T5?

[Jerry peachuer]

Call liberty gears they can build what you have (stock) into more than you could purchase for 700 ish
Liberty gears are in michigan look the up

I ran the heavy duty trans (z) in my last car was a good trans

If you go with a tko tremec very pricey but you will most likely never talk about a trans again
I wouldn't rebuild to stock specs you will be broken again soon
I'm sure there's other companies out here just make sure you upgrade from stock and use a reputable shop

[wman24]

The one in your car should be a world class T-5. Just find a reputable local shop or get the Hanlon video and rebuild it your self. In addition to basic tools the only other things that are needed would be a dial indicator. I can't recall needing a press for anything.

[Saturn V]

Are you sure that your clutch cable is adjusted properly? Does the clutch start to engage as soon as you release the pedal from the floor? If so, that could mean that the clutch cable simple needs to be adjusted. If you still have the factory cable and clutch cable quadrant, pull up on the clutch pedal to make sure that the stock cable quadrant has taken out all of the cable slack possible. This is worth checking before digging into the tranny. While you're checking stuff, ensure that fluid level (should be ATF) in the trans is OK. Shifting from 5th to Reverse is normal on any T-5, as far as I know.


There are lots of threads here on this topic, but here is one ...

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...y-shifts-rough

[scarecrow]

Are you sure that your clutch cable is adjusted properly? Does the clutch start to engage as soon as you release the pedal from the floor? If so, that could mean that the clutch cable simple needs to be adjusted. If you still have the factory cable and clutch cable quadrant, pull up on the clutch pedal to make sure that the stock cable quadrant has taken out all of the cable slack possible. This is worth checking before digging into the tranny. While you're checking stuff, ensure that fluid level (should be ATF) in the trans is OK. Shifting from 5th to Reverse is normal on any T-5, as far as I know.


There are lots of threads here on this topic, but here is one ...

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...y-shifts-rough

My cable snapped on me a few months ago and I still had the same problem after replacing it sadly.

[Mike Croke]

My cable snapped on me a few months ago and I still had the same problem after replacing it sadly.

Is the cable properly adjusted? Are you running the stock original plastic quadrant or an aftermarket metal one? A clutch that doesn't quite disengage will cause all the symptoms you describe.

If the trans is the problem, often you cannot know if it can rebuilt until it is disassembled. Rebuild parts are available from places like Hanlon Motorsports.

Rebuild or replace will depend on the condition of the transmission, power output, and your intended usage. A fun weekend cruiser will have different needs than a drag car on slicks.

[JPJP]

Another thought. Check the tranny mount. If it is bad similar problems show up due to misalignment.

[scarecrow]

Is the cable properly adjusted? Are you running the stock original plastic quadrant or an aftermarket metal one? A clutch that doesn't quite disengage will cause all the symptoms you describe.

If the trans is the problem, often you cannot know if it can rebuilt until it is disassembled. Rebuild parts are available from places like Hanlon Motorsports.

Rebuild or replace will depend on the condition of the transmission, power output, and your intended usage. A fun weekend cruiser will have different needs than a drag car on slicks.

Maybe it's something you'd have to drive to really see what I'm talking about. I still have the stock quadrant. It is adjusted properly.. I can cram it into any gear from a stand still except 1st and it doesn't grind, but if I hold down the clutch for about 5 seconds it'll slip into 1st fine. That's how I figured out that I can do the 2nd -> 1st combo and take off without holding the clutch down in 1st at a red light. I can also shift from 3rd -> 2nd fine, but from 1st -> 2nd I have to take it slow.

[Travis T]

Get a good shop manual and a kit from Hanlon. I rebuilt one myself, they are not hard to do and don't require a bunch of special tools.

[JACook]

Agree, the T5 is an easy transmission to rebuild. The official Tremec rebuild manual can be downloaded
from several sources, and there are also many pictorial rebuild guides on the www. The only special tools
you would need are a bearing puller, and lock ring pliers.

The stock '85 T5 does have a reputation for shedding the teeth off 3rd gear, among other things. If you
like to drive with a bit more enthusiasm than most, or your existing 2nd and 3rd gear hubs are chewed
up, you might consider the '068' gearset upgrade. If you really like to hammer it, and/or ever plan to go
down the strip with slicks, you're probably not gonna be happy with a T5. Otherwise if everything is in
good condition, and you're not the type to abuse it, the stock stuff is fine. After all, it lasted this long.
You definitely should plan to replace the input shaft retainer, if it's still the aluminum tube style.

But have you tried changing the fluid? There are many choices, and everyone has their favorites, but just
plain old Dexron from McParts is worlds better when it's fresh, than even the best synthetic fluid when it's
old. The stuff wears out, no matter what it is.

Also, even if the clutch cable is fine, and properly adjusted, that doesn't eliminate the possibility of clutch
drag caused by things like the pilot bearing, or gummed up input shaft splines.

When the engine is idling and the clutch is released, put the transmission in a forward gear to stop the
works, then pull it back to neutral for a bit, while continuing to hold the clutch down. After a few seconds,
try to put it in reverse. If the clutch is releasing cleanly, the gears should not clash.

[scarecrow]

I work nights so all I do is work and sleep and haven't had the time to reply. I found a really good shop here in town that will do the rebuild for $350 plus parts. Everyone I've talked to that's had work done there says it's really good work.