I want to prime my motor on my SVO

[soldthedart]

Is there is a oil port on the 2.3T I can easily get to and hookup a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
The motor is new and I think priming before starting is a necessity.
Also is the means to prime the motor under the distributor?

[SchoolBoy]

Is the motor in the car or on a test stand?

[mustangxtreme]

The oil pump drive is under the distributor. I used a prime kit I bought from Harbor Freight to prime mine.

[soldthedart]

The motor is in the car, that's why I was looking for an easily accessible oil port to monitor.

[gr79]

Mandatory to check for good oil pressure on a new engine before starting it.

One port is at the stock oil sender/switch assy location.
Remove then match the threads to make an adapter.
My 93 Ranger 2.3 was a common pipe thread size into the block.
I assume older engines are the same.
Items can be purchased at any hardware store.
Do not use brass. Cast Iron works fine.

All i did to prime my new rebuilt engine was to crank it a few minutes, with coil wire off.
If everything is in order, the pressure should be up quick as when the engine starts.
Then plugged everything back in and fired it up to break in the cam.
The valve train and bearings had break in lube on them.

After listening for abnormal noise, smells, leak checking, making adjustments.
Was driving it few hours later.
All is well 100k later.

[soldthedart]

[QUOTE=gr79;1675215]Mandatory to check for good oil pressure on a new engine before starting it.

One port is at the stock oil sender/switch assy location.
Remove then match the threads to make an adapter.
My 93 Ranger 2.3 was a common pipe thread size into the block.
I assume older engines are the same.
Items can be purchased at any hardware store.
Do not use brass. Cast Iron works fine.

All i did to prime my new rebuilt engine was to crank it a few minutes, with coil wire off.
If everything is in order, the pressure should be up quick as when the engine starts.
Then plugged everything back in and fired it up to break in the cam.
The valve train and bearings had break in lube on them.

After listening for abnormal noise, smells, leak checking, making adjustments.
Was driving it few hours later.
All is well 100k later.[/QUOTE

I appreciate the information.
Not sure as to why you would state not to use a Brass adapter though.
I think I'll stick to removing the distributor and priming the engine without rotating the motor so as to limit any wear on the more delicate components before substantial lubrication is at hand. I would really appreciate it if you could direct me as to the location on the block to take a pressure reading?

The cam is the original so cam break in should not be an issue.
I usually run the motor at at least 2k for about 15 minutes or so to run in the cam on most of the motors I do. Its easy for a cam to go flat and leave you with doing it all over again after a complete tear down without good initial lubrication.
Perhaps I'll do the Ranger Roller set up after I get this thing mobile and the weather turns.
Winter is at hand and I will need something to do anyways.

[SchoolBoy]

The best oil port is behind the intake manifold by the firewall. Just unscrew the stock sensor and adapt an aftermarket one there. If your going to prime via the dizy have the valve cover off to see the oil making it the the top. Also remove the oil return line from the turbo to the block and place a catch can there. Remove your oil filter and fill it with as much oil as you can without making a mess putting it back on. After your test is done and your ready to fire it the first time push the gas pedal to the floor, this shuts the injectors off so you can crank the motor to prime it againg right before you start it.

[gr79]

About the brass adaptor
I suppose a tee is ok. More or less a billet.
They still can't take much torque as iron does.

No to any brass pipe? Reason is:
I made up a tee and short extension for stock gauge and port tap for an additional mechanical oil gauge.
Well, after a couple thousand miles, the brass pipe broke off flush, with the threaded part in the block.
Lucky i got it out in one piece. It matched back up correctly to the pipe.
So i used cast iron from Home Depot. Cheaper too.
No problems since.
Seems the extra length of pipe needed stuck out too far (1") and fatigued thru engine vibration.
Makes a big mess if not caught quickly. This fortunately happened in the driveway.
Also spent 25.00 on a good 3' braided line to run inside cab for durability.

[soldthedart]

About the brass adaptor
I suppose a tee is ok. More or less a billet.
They still can't take much torque as iron does.

No to any brass pipe? Reason is:
I made up a tee and short extension for stock gauge and port tap for an additional mechanical oil gauge.
Well, after a couple thousand miles, the brass pipe broke off flush, with the threaded part in the block.
Lucky i got it out in one piece. It matched back up correctly to the pipe.
So i used cast iron from Home Depot. Cheaper too.
No problems since.
Seems the extra length of pipe needed stuck out too far (1") and fatigued thru engine vibration.
Makes a big mess if not caught quickly. This fortunately happened in the driveway.
Also spent 25.00 on a good 3' braided line to run inside cab for durability.

Pedel to the floor shutting of the injectors is a good thing to know, This is my first Ford!
Most of my cars, like my 65 Coronet has a 426 with dual afb's.
Did I mention Old School? I had thought you had an adverse reaction to brass> I can understand your concern after you had the brass extension break off, Bummer!
I actual was only going to install the gauge for start up.
I really did not want to cut any holes in the dash to install the aftermarket unit permanently. Even though I always use aftermarket mechanical in all my cars.
The factory units are sometimes unreliable. Is the drive gear for the oil pump seprate from the distributor gear?
On my mopars I have to remove the distributor, then the oilpump drive gear and then I can get to the pump with a primer .

[gr79]

Brass is cool! Like on boats, musical instruments, etc. Is also germicidal.

It was a while ago, but now that i think of it may have used a drill with socket to spin the aux shaft sprocket before timing belt install.
The aux shaft drives the oil pump, dist, and on carb cars, the fuel pump.

My old 75 Super Beetle had Bosch FI. Flooring it shut off fuel too.

I took out the ashtray in the Ranger. A 3 panel mount fits perfect in there. No cutting.
A pillar pod works nicely for any extra gauges without cutting dash.

Old school? I remember the Carter ThermoQuad on a friends new 1971 'Cuda.
Or the six packs on 2 other friends new '70 340 T/A and '70 440/6 'Cuda.
Did tinker with a few Quadrajets. The vac hose trick to pop open the secondaries quicker.

[mustangxtreme]

To get to the oil pump drive shaft you will need to pull the distributor or you could pull the timing belt and spin the auxiliary shaft and it will spin the distributor and oil pump.

[soldthedart]

I think I'll pull the distributor, Is the drive a slot like a mopar ?

[JTurbo]

Oil drive shaft (that goes into the bottom of the dizzy) is hex if memory serves me correctly. I'm pretty sure I used a socket on an extension and drill, but it's been a few years since I did this in my SVO.....

[mustangxtreme]

^^x2.

[bleavitt23]

Oil pump shaft is definitely hex. I use an old distributor shaft and a drill for priming the oil system.

Also - as for flooring the throttle to prevent the engine from firing, I'm not saying not to do it, and I've never seen it not work on a car with the original PCM, but once I swapped an LA3 into my '86 that trick stopped working. Found out the hard way. I have no clue why it stopped working as I've checked and double checked that the TPS is correct, and I know the wiring is all good. Now, to be safe, on both of my 'birds I disconnect the injector harness and remove the primary coil wire to prime with everything assembled.

[soldthedart]

Hopefully I can use a socket and a drill, I don't have a spare distributor shaft but the thought of a socket popping off the extension and ending up in my engine does not should like a good time.
I would hate to have to pull the engine out because of something like that.
Not that im sure it would end up in the bottom or not?
Can you pull the pan in the car? I really don't want to find out the hard way.

[bluemax]

I use electrical tape to tape the socket to my extension. I have never had an issue with the socket falling off using this method.

[IDMooseMan]

Hopefully I can use a socket and a drill, I don't have a spare distributor shaft but the thought of a socket popping off the extension and ending up in my engine does not should like a good time.
I would hate to have to pull the engine out because of something like that.
Not that im sure it would end up in the bottom or not?
Can you pull the pan in the car? I really don't want to find out the hard way.

If you want to make your own priming tool, JB Weld (or similar), an old extension of the proper length and an old socket of the correct size together.

I use electrical tape to tape the socket to my extension. I have never had an issue with the socket falling off using this method.

This is a good idea.

[soldthedart]

8mm socket and a extension in my battery drill and she pumped right up after 20 seconds or so.
But I would definitely suggest staying away from using the starter to prim any motor if you can, it took about 20 seconds for the pressure on the new pump to pump up. If You were to rotate a new set of bearings without oil you would age them considerably.