Ok. I'll take a look myself next weekend when I have time. Maybe it's clogged up with stuff and overflowing into the inside trough.
Ok. I'll take a look myself next weekend when I have time. Maybe it's clogged up with stuff and overflowing into the inside trough.
1985 Mustang GT Convertible
Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.
Scotty
1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
Past Pony's.....
68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White
Quick question about the hydraulics. I'm going to replace the seals in the motor/pump. Do I need to worry about pressure in the lines making a mess when I disconnect the T-fittings from the side of the pump? Should I have the top down, up, somewhere in the middle when disconnecting the lines?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
I'd have to check my vert manual but I remember the lines on that system are like your brake system, no pressure until the pump is on so you should be able to just disconnect the lines and remove the pump. Just make sure you have some clean rags for spillage. You should be able to access the pump with the top up or down but I'd do it with the top up just in case something goes wrong, it's right there behind the rear seat.
Scotty
1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
Past Pony's.....
68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White
Having the top up helps tremendously with access. There is no pressure on the lines but make sure you have oil absorbent pads, paper towels or good rags to catch the oil that will run out of the lines and pump. When I removed the lines, it made a pretty big mess all things considered.
Oh and one other thing......do not get the bright idea of removing the parts of the system and then deciding you need the top either up or down and move it manually. It makes a hell of a mess when you do that. Just trust me on that one!
Last edited by 84StangSVT; 09-23-2015 at 12:46 PM.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
And with those lines, make sure you're as careful as humanly possible. I was wiping up some water in the trunk, and i more or less punched the drivers side line while scrubbing. it snapped right off. Now if they were that brittle, they should've been replaced already, but now thats $120-140 i wasnt expecting to spend.
Handle those lines like a newborn baby!
FOR SURE!!!!! Here are the lines if they do break.....
https://lmr.com/item/LRS-53390A/83-0...tible-Hose-Kit
Scotty
1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
Past Pony's.....
68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White
Great advice. It's always great to learn from someone else's experience and get a good head start on a project.
Another question. I picked up a set of cylinders with the lines on Craigslist for $50. I figured it was a good deal and would come in handy if one or more of my cylinders go bad. They came out of a 91. My 86 has one clear line and one clear line with a red stripe. The lines from the 91 are black. We're they just different colors in those years or is one of the two sets using some sort of aftermarket replacement line?
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
I'll check the color of my lines tomorrow on my 88, my back seat is out and my stuff is exposed.....
Scotty
1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
Past Pony's.....
68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White
Also great advice!
My 84's lines had gotten hard and brittle also, I guess that is expected after being exposed to oil for 30 years, and it didn't take much to snap them clean off.
As for the colors of the lines, I don't have a good answer for that as my 84 had clear lines on it.
I know the $110 bucks for the new line set may seem a bit high, but if it was me.....I think I would go ahead and buy them so I was confident that I wasn't going to have any issues down the road. Even though the "new" lines you got may seem fine, keep in mind they have may have been subjected to 24 years of being oil filled already and may be on the edge of becoming brittle also. Oil shortens the life of plastic tubing dramatically.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
So mine has a black hose (I figure factory) and a clear-ish hose (replacement).
Scotty
1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
Past Pony's.....
68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White
Fellow convertible lovers. I really love the look of a clean deck lid on a fox body. When I purchased my current 86 GT it had an 85 deck lid on it. The only problem is that no luggage rack or no wing means that there is no easy third brake light location. Leaving it off is not an option for me. Too many potential complications if I was ever rear ended. One solution would be a light bar but I'm not a fan of that look on an 86 either. I've done a lot of searching and so far my best option is this "mustang trunk mount brake light" from Classic Design Concepts. It was intended for 05 -09 mustang convertibles but I think it is my best option. What do you think? I have done a lot of searching and I have not seen these used on a fox. Sometimes when I look at it I see a cheesy stick on part but other times I see a simple and tasteful solution to my problem. I would love to hear your opinions. Please ignore the wire in the photos, the light is just sitting there to evaluate the look. The wiring would be run through the panel.
Last edited by awakened; 09-27-2015 at 12:31 AM.
I think the location of the third brake.light is fine. My 2006 Mazda.Miata has one in exactly the same.place.
Bryan
1983 Mustang GLX Convertible
I agree, it looks good and very clean. Much better than the factory third brake light.
Sent from Mos Eisley using Tapatalk
--86 GT vert.306,Powerdyne blown 7 psi, E303, ported E7s,MAF conv, BBK shorties n OR H, 3" Mac Pro Dumps, WC T5, 5 lug'd, 17" Bullitts, 3" cowlhood, SN95 Gt front brakes, 4.11s.
--Bill
Do it, looks good. A simple solution for a troubling problem.
Scotty
1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
Past Pony's.....
68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White
I would do it also. I think it is a good looking compromise. I wish they would make one that had a slight curve to it so it followed the contour of the area.
Brock
1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed
I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?
Thanks for all the feedback. I don't think I will find a better option so I'll go with this. Once I get it installed I will post some pictures to show you what it looks like when lit and from a couple different outdoor angles.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
I think it looks great (if it was curved to match even better), but the proximity to the plastic trim around the convertible top area may make it difficult to get the boot on. Maybe try the boot on with the light there before any permanent fixtures!
Also, what if you stuck it slightly forward onto the trunk lid? Then you could run the wire behind the light, under the lid, and then down the factory wire loom? And if you stuck some magnets on the bottom, then you could actually remove it when you want and drop it in the trunk (shows, etc)
Last edited by 85stanggt; 09-29-2015 at 07:58 AM.
1985 Mustang GT Convertible
Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.
I think I'll be OK with the boot given the profile of the light and the flexibility of the boot attachment tabs. However, I like the idea of a removable (magnetically attached) light to keep that area clean for shows and to keep my options open for future solutions. When I get home I'll look at my options for magnetic attachment in the current location (harder to run the wiring) and 85stanggt's suggested location on the trunck lid (easier wiring but not ideal location). I'll also need to see if there is a good way to integrate the magnets into the light and maintain the rubber base to keep from damaging the paint.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
I snapped a line the same way, wiping the area beside the pump. Ordered a set from lmr installed them and they leaked like crazy by the fittings on the bottoms cylinders. Called them and they sent a second set which was fine. The flange on the first set was not rolled correctly and wouldn't seal. I used small cottage cheese type container under the lower lines when I disconnected them, and then ran the pump to remove the fluid from the lines. Learned that the hard way, after several days of mopping up the previous mess. Also I believe HYDRO-E-ELECTRIC sells individual lines and also the kit for redoing the pump. I think the single line was 50.00.
I bought the pump rebuild kit from hydrolelectric on ebay for $15 +6$ shipping.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N900A using Tapatalk
At the pivot points on each side above the rear windows a pin broke. So now the connection arm that makes the front section of the roof that connects to the header fold must be manually folded. I have looked for replacement parts and pins with no luck. Does anyone know where I can find roof parts?
Here is what the CHMSL looks like installed. I took 85stanggt's suggestion and incorporated some strong rare earth magnets into the underside of each end of the light. I ran the wire under the trim at the base of the convertible top and under the hinge cover. The wire is a small gauge so it fits under the trim easily. The light stays firmly in place but I could pull it off and drop it on the trunk in about 10 seconds. It would probably only take about 2-3 minutes to put it back and re-hide the wire. This will come in handy for washing/waxing and for future shows. Overall I'm very pleased with the results and the best part is I have not made any permanent changes. Total cost with the light and materials is ~$75. When you get up close and look from the top you can see about 3mm of wire where it runs from the light to the trim. This is an acceptable trade off for the light being removable.
Wow looks great! Were the magnets stick-on to the light? I'm going to keep this in mind to maybe do this myself. I like how it is reversible/removable. How is it to get the boot on and off?
1985 Mustang GT Convertible
Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.
There is a little hollow (mostly) space on each end of the light housing under the gasket. I cut back a post in that space used as the screw channel and used epoxy to place the magnets. I cut out clearance holes in the gasket to get the magnets as close as possible to the metal body panel. The magnets appear black in the one picture because I am using small black balloons over them for extra insurance that they don't scratch the paint.
Last edited by awakened; 10-03-2015 at 06:48 PM.
Connect With Us