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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default door latch closes tight

    I opened the passenger side door on my 84 convertible to check if any water got in after we had snow here in NY.

    Now closing the door I found it so tight I cant even slam it shut.

    I've seen threads about the door striker bushings being replaced, but I thought that worn or missing bushings would create a sloppy loose closing door. Mine is like super tight I can get the latch to grab but the door is ajar at least 1/2 inch or more.

    Considering it was miserable rainy sleet on Long Island today, I could not mess with it today.

    Also, I see the door latch replacements are sold as being for 79-93, but the ones Dorman and LMR sell are for 87 and up. Mine is a round assembly without the frame that wraps around the end. And I've read that trying to just swap out the bushings causes problems such as the door latching but not opening.

    How do I determine if its the latch assembly in the door that catches the latch? Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    Open the door and use a large round screwdriver to function as the striker. Make sure the door latch two jaws are open. If not you will need to use the screwdriver to open the latch while pulling up on the door handle at the same time. Place the screwdriver or a round tube/pipe that is similar in size to the striker in the latch and slide towards the outside of the door. That should cause the latch to close around the screwdriver/pipe and latch. If that works fine, then now pull up on the door handle while giving a bit of pressure towards the inside of the car. You may need to hold the door steady with your knee while doing all this simultaneously. The latch jaws should rotate open and release the screwdriver/pipe. If that works fine, then the issue is the striker or the striker position. If the latch doesn't close properly, latch, and/or doesn't release and open properly you will need to inspect the latch and verify what is going on. Make sure you door handle is giving a proper amount of pull on the latch via the rod that connects to the door handle itself. Make sure the latch is lubricated well.

    If the issue is the striker, replace the with Dorman/LMR/etc replacements with the frame. position the metal frame/arm of the striker at the back/inside of the door jamb away from the latch. Position, align, and tighten up. That should fix your door latching issue assuming that the door is not sagging due to hinge bushings. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

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    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
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  3. #3
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Open the door and use a large round screwdriver to function as the striker. Make sure the door latch two jaws are open. If not you will need to use the screwdriver to open the latch while pulling up on the door handle at the same time. Place the screwdriver or a round tube/pipe that is similar in size to the striker in the latch and slide towards the outside of the door. That should cause the latch to close around the screwdriver/pipe and latch. If that works fine, then now pull up on the door handle while giving a bit of pressure towards the inside of the car. You may need to hold the door steady with your knee while doing all this simultaneously. The latch jaws should rotate open and release the screwdriver/pipe. If that works fine, then the issue is the striker or the striker position. If the latch doesn't close properly, latch, and/or doesn't release and open properly you will need to inspect the latch and verify what is going on. Make sure you door handle is giving a proper amount of pull on the latch via the rod that connects to the door handle itself. Make sure the latch is lubricated well.

    If the issue is the striker, replace the with Dorman/LMR/etc replacements with the frame. position the metal frame/arm of the striker at the back/inside of the door jamb away from the latch. Position, align, and tighten up. That should fix your door latching issue assuming that the door is not sagging due to hinge bushings. Good Luck!
    I replaced the door hinges when I had my bodywork and paint done about 5 years ago. The doors don't sag and there's no play in them when lifting.

    I'd prefer to keep my original strikers but replace the bushings. I just cant find a Dorman part for the bushings alone. There's only complete strikers unless ordering from LMR or CJPP. They have the bushings separate.

  4. #4

    Default

    I've read in the past where some people have used pex pipe for the bushing, available at your local home improvement store.
    1985 Mustang GT (Mothballed...Desired restomod parts acquired...Top of my project list for my 2024 retirement!)

  5. #5

    Default

    Some of the door strikers do not allow the big washer to come off. 1985 and 86 are like this but not sure about 84. The only way to replace the plastic bushing is to slice it open and then bend it open in such a way to get it on the striker.
    That is what I have done on mine.
    1981 Capri "Black Magic" I6 (sold)
    1985 Mustang GT (sold) Oxford white T-Top
    1985.5 Mustang SVO 9L
    1986 Mustang SVO 1D

  6. #6

    Default

    regarding you problem with tightness. I might spray the locking mechanism with some brake parts cleaner and some rags. I cleaned mine real good recently and then added some white lithium grease and they work much better now. The brake parts cleaner is pretty good bc it dries fast and isnt bad on the paint but I would still be ready with rage to wipe it off immediately
    1981 Capri "Black Magic" I6 (sold)
    1985 Mustang GT (sold) Oxford white T-Top
    1985.5 Mustang SVO 9L
    1986 Mustang SVO 1D

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default

    2x on pex tubing. HD sells 2' pieces.
    Slice and pry the old one off if replacing it. No need to unbolt striker.
    Cut what is needed, use the rest as a back scratch er, for making spacers, or something.
    Hold upright with screwdriver inside, carefully slit down with sharp tool end to end.
    Pry apart to slip onto striker. Pipe won't crack. Rotate to hide slit.

    No problem of door latching tight with the diy bushing.
    Rarely, the car chassis gets twisted a bit when parked crooked on an incline.
    Have to lift the ds door a bit to close it. PS ok.

  8. #8

    Default

    The LTD wagon is missing bushings on a couple of the stikers. They doors latch, but don't fully close. Before I replaced them in the truck, I just adjusted the striker a bit further inboard, thus it was latching in a different spot that allowed the door to seal properly.

    Why keep the original strikers? They're readily available.

    If you need just the bushings, check ebay. On the LTS I found some bushings there. For the TBird and the truck, I just replaced the entire striker.
    83 TC "Clone"
    85 Marquis LTS
    86 LTD Wagon

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