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  1. #426
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    So I ended up just buying new vert top weather stripping from Daniel Carpenter and although the top now seals tight and the water leaks stopped, I am still very annoyed that I had to replace the weather-stripping I had just replaced 5 years ago.

    I mean the original material lasted from 1984 till 2015 so why cant Daniel Carpenter make a quality repro of this essential convertible component?

  2. #427
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    Glad it's fix. I think I bought the header weather strip for my 88 from American Muscle. It's been 10 years now and has held up well.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Rebuild Coming Soon.
    1996 Crown Vic LX 4.6 Silver "Gort" Daily Driver

    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  3. #428
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by webestang View Post
    Glad it's fix. I think I bought the header weather strip for my 88 from American Muscle. It's been 10 years now and has held up well.

    It doesnt matter who its bought from, Daniel Carpenter is the only show in town. And the 88 year is different from 84. Its possible that years weather stripping was better made.

    But on my car, I have replaced, and re-replaced all the weather stripping multiple times from 2015 till now.

    Twice on the convertible top weatherstrip
    Four times on the A pillar weatherstrip driver side (this one is a major point of wear and tear)
    Two times on the A pillar passenger side
    Two times on the inside door run channel
    Two times on the outer door weatherstrip

    The power window guide bar inserts, I put brand new ones from Daniel carpenter in when I got the car in 2014, barely 2 years later they were mutilated and twisted up. I replaced those with NOS Motorcrafts and they hold like iron.

    The door roller that rolls along the plate when you open the door, I put DC one sin and they warped into a square shape after a year. replaced with NOS and they still are perfect.

  4. #429
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    Wow....that's a lot of replacements. The difference must be when Ford took over production in 85 from the other company that started making Fox verts for Ford in 83.
    Good to know on the door rollers. Mine need changing.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Rebuild Coming Soon.
    1996 Crown Vic LX 4.6 Silver "Gort" Daily Driver

    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  5. #430
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by webestang View Post
    Wow....that's a lot of replacements. The difference must be when Ford took over production in 85 from the other company that started making Fox verts for Ford in 83.
    Good to know on the door rollers. Mine need changing.
    Yeah, with those door rollers, keep searching until you find NOW. I re-did the guts in my doors with all NOS and so far it is all still solid.

  6. #431

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    not sure why I bought a convertible haha...what a PITA. Nothing has been easy to fix, and thankfully I found your other thread on the rubber bumb stops. Mine are coming from National parts depot tomorrow so hopefully I can set it all up.

  7. #432
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobra912 View Post
    not sure why I bought a convertible haha...what a PITA. Nothing has been easy to fix, and thankfully I found your other thread on the rubber bumb stops. Mine are coming from National parts depot tomorrow so hopefully I can set it all up.
    Its nice that NPD started making those bumper stops. I had to use the lower door stops from a early 60's Stang and slice them to size with a razor.

    Take your time with the rear quarters. that are PITA bigtime. Get the convertible manual. It helps but some of its info regarding the rear quarters are wrong.

  8. #433

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    Quote Originally Posted by fgross2006 View Post
    Its nice that NPD started making those bumper stops. I had to use the lower door stops from a early 60's Stang and slice them to size with a razor.

    Take your time with the rear quarters. that are PITA bigtime. Get the convertible manual. It helps but some of its info regarding the rear quarters are wrong.
    Bought and installed these a few months back. Had to trim mine as well. They're thicker and made of denser rubber than the originals. At least there's an option now, but they're not 100%.
    '84.5 GT vert / roller 5 liter 4v / t5
    '86 LX coupe / 331 / t5
    '86 F-150 - 5 liter / efi / aod
    '56 F-100 - 272 y-block / 3 on the tree

  9. #434

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    Quote Originally Posted by fgross2006 View Post
    Its nice that NPD started making those bumper stops. I had to use the lower door stops from a early 60's Stang and slice them to size with a razor.

    Take your time with the rear quarters. that are PITA bigtime. Get the convertible manual. It helps but some of its info regarding the rear quarters are wrong.
    I did get the book. What info is wrong ? I'm fighting these things. Not easy to get. I changed the guide bar mount on the drivers side seeing as I had it all open, although it wasn't broken and window was waaaay out of adjustment. I'm still fighting it. Changed motors both sides. And I adjusted drivers door glass thinking that would help but made it worse.

  10. #435

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    Is there only one rubber bump stop per quarter window?

  11. #436

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    I figured out my answer yes it's only one.

    Can anyone tell me if a rear quarter window regulator from an 83 is the same as an 86?

  12. #437

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    Can't positively say they're all the same from 83-86, but they probably are. Here's the ones out of my '84.

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    '84.5 GT vert / roller 5 liter 4v / t5
    '86 LX coupe / 331 / t5
    '86 F-150 - 5 liter / efi / aod
    '56 F-100 - 272 y-block / 3 on the tree

  13. #438

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    Thanks for posting that. Appearance wise it seems the same. Now I just need to find one. I think PO was into the window and I believe when it was removed it was slightly tweaked...seems no matter what I try it binds going up, and if all bolts mounting it are tightened it makes it even worse.

  14. #439

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobra912 View Post
    Thanks for posting that. Appearance wise it seems the same. Now I just need to find one. I think PO was into the window and I believe when it was removed it was slightly tweaked...seems no matter what I try it binds going up, and if all bolts mounting it are tightened it makes it even worse.
    Are they manual or power? Did you check the guide bushings? Unless something is really bent, it should operate smoothly when cleaned & lubed.

  15. #440

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    Power. Everything looks good,that's why I feel the regulator may be tweaked slightly

  16. #441
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobra912 View Post
    I did get the book. What info is wrong ? I'm fighting these things. Not easy to get. I changed the guide bar mount on the drivers side seeing as I had it all open, although it wasn't broken and window was waaaay out of adjustment. I'm still fighting it. Changed motors both sides. And I adjusted drivers door glass thinking that would help but made it worse.
    I dont remember specifically, but look at my thread for the quarter window adjustment and I spell out step by step what I did and the deficiency's of the manual.

    Two things I can recall though,

    The manual says there is an adjustment trough the door jam for the bumper stop that is supposed to adjust with a large flat blade screw driver. There's no screw in there behind the rubber. It was a nut and bolt I actually broke removing and had to get replacement at local hardware store.

    Also, the manual says the carriage should have slotted openings to adjust up/down height. The diagram shows slots. Three carriages I had all have perfect sized holes to mount on the two studs. If you need height adjustment you have to trim those holes with a dremmel VERY CAREFULLY. I destroyed my first attempt so be aware.

    Other than that, just look over my write up. I tell you things I found in the adjustment process they don't mention in the book.

  17. #442
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobra912 View Post
    Thanks for posting that. Appearance wise it seems the same. Now I just need to find one. I think PO was into the window and I believe when it was removed it was slightly tweaked...seems no matter what I try it binds going up, and if all bolts mounting it are tightened it makes it even worse.
    If it binds going up, its your adjustment. It sucks, but you have to keep tweaking the carriage adjustment. I found it to be a nightmare because each time you need to adjust the upper carriage nuts, you have to remove the plate with the window motor. The lowers you can access without removal. It was arduous and time consuming but I did finally get both to near perfection.

    I doubt its the regulator. Its a solid gear. Unless the car was direct hit in the rear quarter, those things don't bind up unless the carriage isn't adjusted right.

  18. #443
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by graphicdesigner80 View Post
    Are they manual or power? Did you check the guide bushings? Unless something is really bent, it should operate smoothly when cleaned & lubed.
    ALSO, I cant emphasize enough, DO NOT used Daniel Carpenter guide bushings. They are pure crappola. Weak plastic that will torque out of shape in a year. They are sloppy and loose fitting.

    Find NOS Motorcraft for the front and rear. I did and mine are fantastic.

  19. #444

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    Copy. That's what I was doing. I must have removed it a 100 times and no luck. Kept getting better but seemed to start binding. I assumed it was the regulator. It's been put away for winter now so it will have to wait till spring unfortunately

  20. #445
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cobra912 View Post
    Copy. That's what I was doing. I must have removed it a 100 times and no luck. Kept getting better but seemed to start binding. I assumed it was the regulator. It's been put away for winter now so it will have to wait till spring unfortunately

    I don't know if you're attempting to do this yourself, but for me, the troublesome side was the passenger side. I got tired of messing with it after days of trial and error. Finally I asked my daughter to come help me. I sat inside the car, she stood outside. I loosened all 4 carriage bolts and slid the window/carriage up into position and had her hold it in place from outside. Then I snugged up all 4 carriage bolts and put the plate back in. It landed close enough that I left it that way.

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