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  1. #1

    Default Disconnect speedometer cable

    I need to pull out the instrument cluster, and I'm having trouble with the speedometer cable. It appears to have three clips holding it on, and all three need to be pulled away from the cable at the same time, it that correct?

    Randy Veach

    1986 ASC McLaren (Red Convertible)

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    Default

    The cable should have a tab on the side of it where it plugs into the back of the speedometer. The tab is on the white collar around the end. Push on the tab and it should release. You may have to push the cable on a little further before pulling it off, it's a bear sometimes. The clips I think you're referring to are probably the bolts that hold the speedometer to the housing.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  3. #3

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    Thanks, That is now undone. The only thing stopping me from completing my task is a group of wires that appears to plug into the back of the instrument cluster. Does it just unplug, or do I need to squeeze the ends, then pull?

    Randy Veach

    1986 ASC McLaren (Red Convertible)

  4. #4

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    There are two seperate connectors plugged into the back of the instrument cluster. You need to squeeze the sides of each connector and pull them out. They can be difficult because sometimes one side will come out, but the other won't. When that happens you have to plug it back in and start over. Both clips need to be pushed in and removed at the same time in order for the connector to come out.

    Once the cluster has been removed it makes it easier in the future, if you need to remove it again. It's just when a cluster has never come out, or it's been in there for 20+ years it can be a real pain to remove.
    Cheers!

    Mike (TopGear85)



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  5. #5

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    Thanks for the advice, and quick response.

    Randy

  6. #6

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    Both cables are unplugged, the instrument cluster is out, and I think I see the problem. In the center plug area some of the copper leads are not attached to the green matt. What is this green matt called? Where can I buy one (I don't relish ever doing this again.)? Can it be replaced rather easily? Would it be easier to buy a rebuild instrument cluster? How can I test to see if I really need a green matt (maybe my problem is elsewhere)?

    Randy Veach

  7. #7

    Default

    That green mat is called a "printed circuit", or "flexible circuit", or something similar.

    http://www.nationalpartsdepot.com/st...0035-5675.html

    The printed/flexible circuit does not have a lead for every position, and each wiring harness does not have a wire/terminal in every location. Are you saying your printed/flexible circuit is broken?
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  8. #8
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    Can you post a picture of what you are referring to? If the printed circuit is bad, I have a good one that Foxchassis gave me with an instrument cluster that you can have for the price of shipping if the part number is correct. It was different than the one in my 84 so I can't use it. If you need it, PM me.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  9. #9

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    Travis,
    I'll try, but I have never poster anything.Name:  printed circut.jpg
Views: 87
Size:  96.3 KB

  10. #10

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    If you look on the right side, of the plug in, you can see the top four are not glued down. I straightened them out, they were all twisted around.

  11. #11

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    I see the damage. Yeah, they should not be like that. Please do post the engineering/part number from your flex circuit. Someone here may have one for you to save you $100 for the cost of a new one.

    Just as Travis has done, if anyone has one for free or the cost of shipping, it is OK to post it in this thread. However, if you are wanting to sell it for $ go directly to PM and don't post it in this thread. Thanks.
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  12. #12

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    There are two numbers on this printed circuit mat. The first is E4ZF-10C956-AA. The second is 03627110485.

    Thanks,
    Randy Veach

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    Unless there is more than one E4 number, I have the one you need. I'll check the number tonight and look it over for damage. If it's good, it's yours if you want it. I got it for free so I would like to pass it along.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  14. #14

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    Travis,
    Thanks for the offer. My e-mail address is randyveach@gmail.com. If everything checks out, send me an e-mail and we can work out the arrangements.

    Randy Veach

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    I just checked the part number, it is correct. I'll email you.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

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