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  1. #26

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    Pulled engine, pull K member.
    Slowed down by rust. I had to come to a fulls stop and repair the mounting point for the K member.
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    I used the ferrules from the steering rack to reinforce the bolt holes in the box I made.

    Bolts for a arms were rusted in the ferrules, but with persuasion were liberated. Installed the K member, a arms, coil overs, caster/camber plates. Also a small correction UPR sells a QA1 kit. When they sent me the kit I think they sent me the correct arms for the application: MU3ESA for 79-93 with 94-04 spindles as indicated in the directions and no where else. UPR was very helpful and understood the direction I was going. The ball joints bolt right up. Also, not in the directions were the fact that I had to get the mustang 5.0 convertible engine mounts and grind of the locating pins. Another thing is that there are two slots. From what I have read the forward slot is the Factory position.

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    Another snag. I mounted up the rack with offset bushings. It seems there is very little room for the lines and the mount nut. There also may be a clearance issue with the shaft. I will work with that later. I am also in need of a bumpsteer kit.

    Started work on the engine.
    Some bits of information that were not specifically noted (As noted earlier I have not done much performance Ford). The oil pump is in the same location on the ford explorer motor, which is in the front. The pickup tube extends from the front, to the back and down. This may be a intuitive to some, but my searches it was not implicit. The conversion from the aluminum to the stamped steel also requires shorter, non necked bolts.

    Installed Melling 68hv High volume pump and 68s4 pickup tube. Installed double hump oil pan.

  2. #27

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    Sorry, too busy to post. Engine, trans is in and running. I am working on pictures.


    I mate the trans and the engine on the ground so I didn't have to fight with the trans under the car. Pulled back the carpet and cut a nice hole for the stick. And then I put it in. I used the front holes on the K member because I read that the rear holes were to shift the engine back. I had to level the engine to the centerline as the mounting holes are actually slots and allow it to tilt. I don't know how, I don't know why, but in this configuration, the trans bolts right up in the stock location and the shifter has no interference to the bench seat. But now my driveshaft needs lengthened by about an inch.
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    The Steering rack is really tight in the in enclave. I had to cut some of the engine mount bolt to make it work. I am using offset bushings and also a bumpsteer kit.


    I bought headers from summit that worked well. I have never seen headers that come apart like these. I also welded the o2 bung in the correct location at the collector. The is some interference on the steering shaft damper that I had to shave down. It is still close, I am not quite sure what to do about it.

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    I also found that the melling pump in this configuration interferes with the oil pan. I noticed, after adding oil, a leak. Cleaned it up and used some jb weld 'cus that motor is not coming out anytime soon.

    I used the 4.6L HD radiator(New) for the fairmont. The problem was that the upper radiator hose was too wide. I cut a section off the old I6 hose and used it as a shim. The stock explorer fan work with the fairmont shroud. The Serpentine with AC Delete is 83"

    Shifting the battery to the cargo area with 1/0 gauge wire was probably overkill, but thats what I had lying around. Mounted power distribution box from explorer. Wired up power mains(Batt, solenoid, starter, alt, body, and engine.) Sifted through 40 or so wires on comp side. Eliminated power feeds from distribution block. It has two relays and about 4 fuses. Wired up the explorer tank for a test and wired into the ignition and it started.
    Last edited by Happypants; 08-04-2015 at 11:58 AM.

  3. #28

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    I need a little advice on bothe the fuel and the dash.

    I had planned to use a fuel cell, but I find it is hard to equip it with an intank fuel pump. I have heard that external pumps are loud, inefficient, get hot, and various other problems. I like the way that the factory pumps work with a fuel container that keeps the pump submerged, cool, and always with fuel at the inlet. I also thought of using another car tank that had a fuel pump around the same time period.

    I want to use the instrument cluster from the explorer because the signalling is all digital. Would this be a great travesty in styling? Another Idea was to use the OBDII Connector with and android device to display the gauges, but this of course takes more money.

    By the way, I still have the I6 k member if anyone needed it. I also have v8 front springs. The control arms were rotten.

  4. #29

    Default progress

    Engine installed
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    Driveshaft Extended 2" by Custom Clutch. The crazy colors are just the paint I had laying around and my crazy.
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    Trans crossmember from ebay. It was listed for a mustang. I had to cut and weld the ferrules
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    Wiring=fun. I had about 15 pages of wiring diagrams to dredge through, but I got it.
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    Last edited by Happypants; 10-11-2015 at 11:41 AM. Reason: too many attatches

  5. #30

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    Some other pics to maybe help someone out

    throttle cable installed
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    Divider plate work. I just chopped, shaped, welded the automatic plate. I isn't pretty, but will do the job.
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    Installing the clutch pedal assembly
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  6. #31

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    I have had so little time to computer these days (stupid physical world.) I have already uploaded pics above.

    I had the engine running originally on the exploder fuel tank and sending unit outside of the car, but this is an inadequate solution. I really just wanted to see this thing move. I got a Bosch 044 external pump from ebay. Way overkill; it flows 75 psi at 53 gph compared to the explorers specs of 60 psi at 20 gph. Ran a steel return line to a hole I drilled in the tank (don't judge me.) This will get replaced with either a fuel cell or a spectra F2c fuel tank and a sending unit.

    I hate exhaust.
    Purchased an universal x pipe kit from jegs. This worked out ok except the drivers side needs a custom piece. A flexible pipe was used temporarily. Also acquired was a muffler and tail kit from ebay. This kit included two mufflers and two mandrel bent tailpipes. There was some pipe left over from another project and was subsequently used here. It now roars with 2.5 inch duel exhaust with an x pipe. There is still much work to do on the hanger setup, but now it will run for longer than a few seconds.

    Got the wrong pedal assembly the first time. That was for manual brakes and earlier clutch cable setup. Got another with a quadrant setup. Installed, cabled, and now it functions.

    Last night it actually moved out of the shop under its own power. I let it run till the battery went low( the dash is still not hooked up.)

    I had to disconnect the mass airflow to get it to stay running, because it kept stalling otherwise. Maybe because it hadn't run in a while? older gas? I'll work on that soon. Another question: does anyone know of a factory or aftermarket computer or flash for performance and automatic trans delete? It seemed to want to stall when I applied a load, but that could be the mass airflow being not connected. I still have not even begun adding any power to it yet, so I am trying to keep that part cheap (factory stuff) or versatile (aftermarket programmable.) thanks in advance

  7. #32

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    It now runs better with the vacuum leak repaired and the mass air flow reconnected. It stays running, but the idle seems a tad erratic. I hear an occasional woof from the tails. I think the computer is still expecting the restricted exhaust and cats.

    Update in research. There is no comparable factory computer. All other 5.0 vehicles (mustang to 95, f150, e150, bronco, etc) utilized a distributor. SCT seems to to be utilized by a lot of people. The individual companies use their hardware to make flashes for a specific set of parameters.

    I had contacted Bama Performance and was told they would only provide flashes for mustangs and a few f150s. They also stated that they do have the capability to remove the automatic transmission from the programming.

    Isn't there a tinkerer's community for Ford computers like the GM's? I am looking for higher level of input, not just octane, rev limit, speed limit, axle ratiio, traction control on/off. I am looking for things like fuel maps and advance curve. These flashers are expensive (400) to install flashes that I have to buy and only can modify a little. The Megasquirt gets kind of pricey for what I need it to do but has all the abilities I want. Huge learning curve with an indefinite time frame.

  8. #33

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    Well, what I can tell you is that the Explorer intake and heads work with a Mustang harness, distributor, and computer. So, you could go that route if you wanted. Although, if I were in your shoes, I probably wouldn't want to go backwards in time. You might try an Explorer forum or a high traffic Mustang forum like the Corral to see if they've done anything like that with their 4.6 cars.

    Good luck! I hope you figure it out!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  9. #34
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    The Quarterhorse and Tweecer both allow you to interface with the factory ECU using a laptop. They give you pretty much complete control of every tuning parameter you could ever want to adjust (and many parameters you would never have any reason to adjust!). I have a Tweecer on my Mustang (bought ~15 years ago), but I think the Quarterhorse is the better deal and has better support. http://www.moates.net/quarterhorse-for-fords-p-199.html

    Combine that hardware with the EEC Analyzer and Binary Editor and you can play to your heart's content. http://www.eecanalyzer.net/home

    Lots of information on setup and tuning @ http://eectuning.org/forums/viewforum.php?f=14. I'm pretty sure you could write a different strategy to the Explorer's ECU so that it thinks it's something else (something with a manual tranny).

  10. #35

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    Thanks for the info Patrick. I had concurrently came to the same information and conclusions. This explorer uses the SLL4 coded comp and the CTBAE strategy. I am currently looking for the base strategy so I can start tinkering. In stock form, the 5.0 explorer has 210 hp. I have removed the AC, used long 1 5/8" tube headers, 2.5" exhaust with an X pipe, and converted it to manual. So I have gained some potential hp, but I need to tune to utilize all of it.

    Meanwhile... I decided to do a test drive.... whoa..... I mean whoa...

    I did a back and forth systems check, making sure everything cleared (it didn't,) and that I could stop (it did.)

    It has a quick throttle response and escalates from there. I kept "accidentally" peeling. I only went to second, but it pulls hard in those gears.

    If it does this now, what is in store after an upgraded cam, lager ratio rockers, bigger throttle body, and bigger injectors?

  11. #36

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    Cool buildup. The stock 5.0L EFI engine is severely underrated. It's very easy to squeeze 400 hp (at the crank) out of a stock shortblock using only bolt ons. I'm curious what you're thinking of doing for tuning your EEC-V. I have 2 EEC-V vehicles in my life, one is a '71 Mustang that I retrofitted with EEC-V (CDAN4 strategy) and have successfully tuned it to run a 10.3:1 408 stroker mated to a built up 4R70W transmission. The other is a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer, totally stock with a 5.0L and 4R70W transmission. The issue with the Mounty is that it uses a REAC4 strategy EEC-V. The only bonafide tuneable EEC-V I'm aware of is the CDAN4, so perhaps you can get yours working nicely with that. My '71 has EDIS8 and even dual independent electric fan control working with the EEC-V.
    '89 LX Sport: 8.5:1 306, KB 2.2L supercharged, methanol injected, Tremec 3550, 3.31:1 gears, big brakes, EDIS8
    '71 Mustang: 10.3:1 408 stroker, 4R70W w/3000 stall triple disc converter, 3.50:1 gears, caged, girdled, injected, EDIS8
    '79 Bronco: 8.5:1 400, EEC-IV control, EDIS8, C6, 4.11:1 gears, 4" lift, 35" rubber
    '00 Mountaineer: stock 9.15:1 302, 4R70W, all stock

  12. #37

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mesozoic View Post
    Cool buildup. The stock 5.0L EFI engine is severely underrated. It's very easy to squeeze 400 hp (at the crank) out of a stock shortblock using only bolt ons. I'm curious what you're thinking of doing for tuning your EEC-V. I have 2 EEC-V vehicles in my life, one is a '71 Mustang that I retrofitted with EEC-V (CDAN4 strategy) and have successfully tuned it to run a 10.3:1 408 stroker mated to a built up 4R70W transmission. The other is a 2000 Mercury Mountaineer, totally stock with a 5.0L and 4R70W transmission. The issue with the Mounty is that it uses a REAC4 strategy EEC-V. The only bonafide tuneable EEC-V I'm aware of is the CDAN4, so perhaps you can get yours working nicely with that. My '71 has EDIS8 and even dual independent electric fan control working with the EEC-V.
    That's awesome! I'd love to see pics of your cars!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  13. #38

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    Still working on the tuning stuff, but I developed a problem. I crushed the spring perch on the passenger side. Well you don't know how far you can go till you break it. I could fix this or maybe I should go to a coil over setup. The car peels too quick and I need bigger tires in the back. Maybe a I should tub it.

    I was trying to keep the cost down, but the next stages seem exponentially expensive. I still have tuning, frame stiffening, possible tubbing, and engine work.

  14. #39
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Mr Happypants.


    There are some other options, cheap ones, with less hassle.

    I'm from Down Under, so I thought that if I was seeing your engine right side up, then some of your photos may have been upside down.




    I'm still trying to figure out how your Modular Fox conversion guys fit the heads on an upside down engine block, but hey, one step at a time.



    Although we use the four most anoying things ever,

    1.Alphabet Soup Instead of model years, we have Letter model XX refrences for cars, and we complicate it by having five cars on the same platform with different letters, made at different times. So when we have Falcon and Fairmonts, ours were
    XK/XM/XP/XR/XT/XW/XY/XA/XB/XC/XD/XE/XF/XG/XH/EA26/EB/EBII/EF/EFII/EL/ELII/AU/AUII/AUIII/BA/BF/BFII/FG/FGII.

    1 First generation (1960–1966 )

    1.1 XK
    1.2 XL
    1.3 XM
    1.4 XP

    2 Second generation (1966–1972 )

    2.1 XR
    2.2 XT
    2.3 XW
    2.4 XY

    3 Third generation (1972–1979 )

    3.1 XA
    3.2 XB
    3.3 XC

    4 Fourth generation (1979–1988 )

    4.1 XD
    4.2 XE
    4.3 XF
    4.4 XG
    4.5 XH

    5 Fifth generation (1988–199

    5.1 EA
    5.2 EB
    5.3 ED
    5.4 EF
    5.5 EL

    6 Sixth generation (1998–2010 )

    6.1 AU
    6.2 BA
    6.3 BF

    7 Seventh generation (2008 –present)

    7.1 FG
    7.2 FG X



    Our Short door Fairlanes weren't co-incident with your US Fairmonts, Fairlanes, Rancheros, LTDII's, Galaxies/Customs/Mercury Marquis or Panther frame cars, ours were




    US Compact 221-260-289

    FB (1962)
    FC (1963)
    FD (1964)

    Australian "Short door " Fairlanes

    First generation
    ZA (1967–1968 )
    ZB (1968–1969)
    ZC (1969–1970)
    ZD (1970–1972)
    Second generation
    ZF (1972–1973)
    ZG / P5 (1973–1976)
    ZH / P6 (1976–1979)
    Third generation
    ZF (1979–1982)
    ZK (1982–1984)
    ZL (1984–1988 )
    Fourth generation
    NA (1988–1991)
    NC (1991–1995)
    NF (1995–1996)
    NL (1996–1999)
    Fifth generation
    AU (1999–2003)
    BA (2003–2005)
    BF (2005–2007)

    Or our "Short door" LTD's, which weren't co-incident with your US Fairmonts, Fairlanes, Rancheros, LTDII's, Galaxies/Customs/Mercury Marquis or Panther frame cars, ours were

    P5 series Ford LTD (August 1973– August 1976)
    P6 series Ford LTD (September 1976– April 1979)
    FC Ford LTD (1979–1982)
    FD Ford LTD (1982–1984)
    FE Ford LTD (1984–1988 )
    DA Ford LTD (1988–1991)
    DC Ford LTD (1991–1995)
    DF Ford LTD (1995–1996)
    DL Ford LTD (1996–1999)
    AU Ford LTD (1999–2003)
    BA Ford LTD (2003–2005)
    BF Ford LTD (2005–2007)

    2. There is no forth quarter October 1 to September 30 the following year model cycle because the market is less than 1 million a year, with 65000 Falcons per year on a bumper production year.

    3. We use, like Canada, the often cussed metric System International units

    (1 MPH = 1.60934 Km=Kilometers,

    I bhp net = 0.7456 kilowats =kW,

    I lb-ft = 1.35628 Nm= Newton Meters

    and 4. MON+RON/2 octane ratings, not AKI),


    But we do have proper North American made Cleveland made Windsor OHV engines.

    Down here, from 1996 on wards, all our Falcon, Fairmont, Fairlane and LTD had optional 5.0 liter and 5.6 liter V8's which were exported FT Explorer/Mountaineer engines , but with a non OBDII EECV engine management system which didn't have the normal 25 pin diagnostic plug, well not untill until the last 2002 versions, and even then it was sort of like the 1995 OBDII port on the 4.0 OHV Explorers, not a fully functional OBDII compliant port that you can code break by CarCode or with a scanner.


    In most versions, it used the Ford Body Control computer clip, and in so doing eliminates the extra 40 hard cyclic test functions which the SAE added to the Federal OBDII emissions equipment cyclic test.

    Box codes exist in steps for those, and they are simple systems which turn a stock 215 hp Explorer engine into a total fire breather, even before head upgrades to alloy aftermarkets. In steps of approx 10 hp to 110 hp increases. Just like the old days of the virle expat US Cleveland 351's we had here untill 1985. Full strength, fortified versions which didn't suffer the emissions related performance drop.

    It was done that way because Ford Australia didn't have to fully comply with USA FMV Emmissions laws. There was certainly an EU and USA based emmission standard the 1992-2002 Aussie V8s used, but it wasn't the same as the same years USA test.

    What is important is that the engines are 100% USA engines, with EO approval regarding castings and the use of an Australian computer allows a person to update a Fox frame Ford without the hassle of reflashing an OBDII EECV computer. The Aussie EECV base will always be a no hassles, non OBDII computer with less cable, and at least a 221 to 235 hp basemap. If you want to build on that, you can do so easily using something like a

    TI Performance http://www.tiperformance.com.au/
    Tweecer interface or
    Powerchip Australia Bronze, Silver. Gold, Gold 98 chip plug in. www.powerchipgroup.com/datasheets


    Our imported Right Hand Drive Explorers were 4 liter OBDII, but no 5 liter V8 OHV Explorers were sold here, but plenty of its OEM engines were!.

    For our long wheelbase XR8 sedans, station wagons and utilty pickups, we used a lot of imported USA 5.0 engines were converted to five different GT40 engine specs, six if you include the 1992-1996 non Explorer base engines.



    Stock EECIV was upgraded to EECV non OBDII in five additional steps. Box codes exist to use the junkyard Aussie CPU's without many headaches.

    1. 221 hp 1992-1998, HO spec E7 headed, forged pistons deleated after first year.

    2. Then 268 bhp SAE Net @ 5250rpm and
    311 lb-ft at 4000 rpm
    with 9.0:1 compression ratio,
    GT40 heads (large valves, heavy-duty valve springs),

    70mm MAF,
    65mm throttle body,
    24lb injectors,
    stock cam,
    1.7 roller rockers,
    tuned 4 into 1 1-5/8” headers,
    ECU calibrated for 24lb injectors

    With a little work on the EPROM, you could get 298 hp and 326 lb-ft.

    3. Then 235 hp E7 or GT40 headed from 1998 onwards
    4. Then optional 248 from 1998 onwards
    5. then 295 hp Synergy 5000 engines were roller rocker engines with GT40P heads gasflowed, aggressive E 303 type cam, and they were good for that 295 hp and 320 lb-ft, but could go well beyond that.
    6. Then a 342 cubic inch stroker with SPS style hyper pistosn and 335 hp, 369 lb-ft, with a Trick flow style 82 mm throttle body and the 5.6 liter stocker T3 Tickford intake.


    From similar discussions on the FSB forum, http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...ogramable.html

    All common non OBDII EECV factory options were 1996-1998 Ford 5 Liter Falcons & Fairlanes.

    Unlike EECIV or the US EECV, the interim Australian 5 liter V8 EBII to EL II didn't use the standard 6+1 Selt Test Connector ODB1




    or the EECV OBD II 16 pin plug like this.



    It used this



    The whole system has seperate break out boxes, it was a dumbed down EECIV, with 20 pins accessable by a common Body Control Module.



    Ath the other end, its not 60 pin, but 103 pin, and internally, it uses the stock EECV intel chip, so its got the fire power, just no full OBDII functions

    These are fairly common mapped bin code bases from which you can upgrade. They don't require the gray cable input the OBDII systems do. They are really simple. If its Tweecer you like, you can upgrade to the next hp level from these basic set ups. Moates J3 activated requires a bin code they, or

    221 hp 6DFC 1996 EL XR8 manual HO 5ltr
    235 hp 6DFD 1998 EL XR8 Manual HO 5ltr (Explorer Intake)
    235 hp 6DGC 1996 NL Fairlane Ghia auto HO 5ltr
    235 hp 6DGD 1997 EL Fairmont Ghia auto HO 5ltr

    There are other box/bin codes, including the rare less than 2500 and sometimes less than 250 per year higher performance engines, the 248, 268, 295 and 335 hp versions USA didn't get. As stated, the engines were 100% USA engines, but some were re assembled in Australia and plateu honed and reworked with a percentage of Australian made performance parts like the old Quality Control Seasoned Block Falcon GT HO 351 4V engines were from 1969 to July 1972.

    Info provided and maintained by Jaysen Anderson & Jason Bolger at TI Performance.

    https://www.tiperformance.com.au/Doc...20Part%201.pdf

    Back in 2010 Jaysen noted the normal brown paper bag cautionaries in a non EPA/CARB/EO approved Australian:

    "A lot of these parameters are still untested, Ive tried the more common ones ie WOT fuel & Spark, idle rpm etc. However if you choose to play with these, be aware of that you do so at your own risk.

    The 6DFC & 6DGC both work on the 6DFC xdf file, and 90% of the parameters work for the 6DFD & 6DGD, however I will get a revised xdf for the FD&GD bins asap."

  15. #40

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    WOW. That is a lot of fascinating information to us EEC heads. I had no idea that Straya got factory stroker Windsor small blocks. Very cool.

  16. #41
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    The basic Explorer engine is very strong, but not invincable. You can take it to well over 400 hp without breaking it, but there are duriablity mods which Ford Australia used, including experiementing with 14 types of piston before settling on Mahale/ ACL Hpereutectics. In terms of what a 295 hp 2002 5 liter Windsor OHV V8 is, (a 40 year old rework of a 289), the engine gave an exceptional account of itself against the same years 5.7 liter LS1's. The 335 hp 5.6 stroker was in another catagory. Meaner, harder edged, not as smooth, but still able to take years of 4000 pound luxo barge punishment with reworked stock 'Exploder' heads and blocks. It was all because Ford Australia had the last remains of Aussie Jac Nassers aborted work in allowing the Premium Automtive work on putting Aston Martin hand buiding engine bays into stock cast iron thin wall blocks. The Explorer blocks were the low point in quality compared to the early blocks, but a little spit and polish, and you had an extra 120 hp with stock Ford Motor company parts.


    The Aussie use of special EFI upper and lower intake air managment, the use on non forged pistons with long rods, cast cranks, and plateu hone bores to be kinder to the block at 6000 pm, all of it has filtered into currnt US practice. Main bearing block girdles, upper block ties, and the simplicity of using the junk yard Aussie EECV, or EMS computer systems when there isn't IM testing, well, that opens the door to streetable 500 hp at 6500rpm 5.6 liter combinations which won't split blocks at 7000 rpm.

    That's why I like swaps like this. Don't be scared of EECV. Its got some issues, but you can swap the whole system over if you have the pinouts, and its really nice if you have it working with 295 hp and not tripping a check engine light. Some Four eyes have MIL lights... the transfer of a broken scrapped SUV engine into an old Fox platform makes it a HSV...Humanitiran Service Vehicle.

  17. #42

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    I embraced the EEC swap back in '01:





    AOD, 2,800 stall, 3.55s, it runs good.

  18. #43
    FEP Senior Member
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    Nice 65.
    Will Rogers" common sense is not as common as you think"

  19. #44

    Default Got some video

    Finally got the video from my brother:
    https://www.facebook.com/17992371535...nch_main_video

    This is probably one of the first street tests, before the power steering was even hooked up.

    This is the parallel thread on eectuning.org
    http://eectuning.org/forums/viewtopi...21720&p=124020

    Thanks for all the input guys. It inspired me to go further and really switch stuff up. I was able to check the wiring diagrams for variations, but found very few, and I was able to switch to a computer with a CDAN4 strategy. I had to also switch the cam sensor and wiring as well. The video was before that switch. The EEC analyzer at this point was estimating 260 HP. I know that is off but still cool to see. There are still things to tweak, but the pedal response is better and I can get through the gears better. This is the part of the project I really like: taking things that did not go together and making them work well. The computer came from a 97 Mustang that had a 4.6. The computer is very adaptable.

    I have been working on research for this project and others recently. Got to get connectors and find a solution for the rear end. It really likes to go for a walk. Does anyone have some input here? I was thinking about tubbing and a three link setup. The watts link is a bit clunky, and the pan hard bar might not be a good fit for this project. I might need to get a shortened axle and some fat tires.

  20. #45

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    Wow, that is cool! And the car sounds and looks great! I'd like to turn you loose on my GT40 5.0 and see what you could do with it!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  21. #46

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    Too much reality makes jack a dull boy.
    I have been able to play around enough to know that the measures I have taken are not enough. The vehicle was awesome at launch, but walked and peeled a lot. I had to do some things before I could add more power.

    Torque box reinforcements. had to modify them to make them work.
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    Coil overs and Strange 11 way adjustable shocks.
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    I also did subframe connectors. These had to be modified quite a bit to make work.

    Just for reference
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    The vehicle launches better, but now I am leaving 30 ft peels. Obviously, I need more contact to the road. Wider tires and possible tubbing are in the future. Right now there is no need to add more power via the comp or mods because its just spinning.

    Also I broke it. I blew a head gasket. Oil is squirting right out of the side of the interface between the head and block right on the header. But this in an opportunity to add some stuff. Cam, lifters, fuel injectors, rockers, valve springs, and stuff can be added when I take it apart.

    Any suggestions? I have been researching cams. The explorer cam is awesome for torque inside of a heavier vehicle, but I have shaved about 1500 lbs. Even the HO cam people immediately replace makes this one seem anemic. Some have suggested the e303 cam for mustangs, but they seem to be the same price as a aftermarket cam. Thankfully I don't have to worry about stall speed. I am just looking for a streetable performance cam. Any input would be appreciated.

  22. #47

    Default

    I really like the Crane 2031 roller cam. It's got a nice lope to it, passes California emissions, and works great with boost as well.
    '89 LX Sport: 8.5:1 306, KB 2.2L supercharged, methanol injected, Tremec 3550, 3.31:1 gears, big brakes, EDIS8
    '71 Mustang: 10.3:1 408 stroker, 4R70W w/3000 stall triple disc converter, 3.50:1 gears, caged, girdled, injected, EDIS8
    '79 Bronco: 8.5:1 400, EEC-IV control, EDIS8, C6, 4.11:1 gears, 4" lift, 35" rubber
    '00 Mountaineer: stock 9.15:1 302, 4R70W, all stock

  23. #48

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    Installed subframe connectors. That was fun. I had to heavily modify the set I got. I had to take some of the articulation from the shape. I also had to weld in a standoff from the torque boxes. Its ugly, but it works. I probably should have started here, but I was too excited about a peeling station wagon.

    I also replaced the head gaskets, valve springs, valve seals, injectors, and other various gaskets. I used Alex parts spring kit for the GT40 head. It was easy to get the springs off, but way harder to get them on. I think the spring rate was something like 329#.

    Th injectors were Bosch 42# chinese knockoffs. They work, I can't say much more because I was not able to locate anyone in Cleveland that can flow test injectors.

    Its running rich right now but, it is running. The specs are usually expressed with 40 psi, the explorer set up uses 60 lbs. I found a multiplication table, and that got me running. It seems to be running rich. I should get some datalogs here in a bit. I still need to add more advance from the base tune. I never did because the chassis wasn't reinforced yet. There are some other tweaks I need to do as well. I have a hot and cold start problem, and idle after throttle snap. Yeah, datalogs.

    The chassis is definitely stiffer and launches straighter. I also noticed the power dropped off at the higher rpms, so when I would switch gears it seemed to bog a little and my shifts would be funny. Now it is holding the power higher. I think I was experiencing some valve float, thankfully not catastrophic.

    I didn't get to the cam this time. The assessment end up 100 for used ford cam, 200 ford cam, 300 for aftermarket cam. Why do all that work and not get what I want the first time? I am still taking suggestions on the cam. Also I gotta get the power to the ground. How wide can I go without tubbing? with tubbing? is it worth the hassle and money?

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