Just got a 1981 Ford Fairmont SW, now it's time to spice it up.

[Happypants]

Initial Specs:
1981 Ford Fairmont Station Wagon
Inline 6, Automatic
7.5 Dif
31,000 Miles
Manual everything




Goal:
V8 Swap in
Performance Suspension
Performance Braking
Tight budget

Obtained:
Master Cylinder, brake booster (99 Mustang)
Spindles, Calipers, Struts and accoutrements (99 Mustang)
Complete rear axle with brakes (97 Mustang GT)
Front and rear springs (97 Mustang GT)

More pics to come

[Patrick Olsen]

31k miles! Wow! Presumably with such low mileage it's been sitting for a while - how's it look underneath?

[ZephyrEFI]

If your brake booster is as big as the one I used out of a '94 Mustang V6, prepare for some,<ahem>, "clearancing" of the strut tower and slotting of the mounting holes to get that behemoth in there. Should be an awesome project though! Can't wait to follow this one!

[Happypants]

Got some more pics
Brake booster, Inline 6, 5 Lug Rims, and Struts-Spindle-Caliper stuffs




(Sorry I cant tell which is which with this interface)

I will upload some more tomorrow. I started work today on the front suspension.

The outside is fine, but underneath is quite rusty. I have a saying "Everything rusts in Cleveland, even people." The left side is disassembled. The spring was broken and so rusted in the control arm I had to chisel the remnants out. It took two hours, in between my other jobs. I was able to replace the ball joint with a SN-95 ball joint. more work tomorrow

I have read about massaging the strut tower; that will probably take some time.

[Dean_T]

I like a slick top wagon! All my wagons had carrier racks and they all leak!

When you said manual everything, what did you mean? Did you add the power brakes and power steering? I think you have a cool wagon. Good luck with your build and keep on posting pics!

[roadkill]

Nice find! I ended up going to York PA to find my Boxtop, everything I found locally was, er, "ventilated" .

[Happypants]

More work done yesterday in the sun and heat, with nagging customers. How do you respond to the question where can I get a head gasket for a bentley?

Everything removed

Poof magic

Not quite. Holy carp! Is there an easier way to install the spring?

This spot may need some attention

I reused the mount from the Fairmont for right now. I was reading about spherical bearings and caster camber plates.


The idea here is to get this done decently and quickly. I run a small shop and need to be able to move cars around. So I started with the front suspension. Next I will tackle the rear suspension, Then the braking system. Hopefully by then I will have an engine and transmission and possibly a tubular K member. I like the concept of the SN95 PS rack geometry.

On that note, does anyone have some info on the PS rack situation. I have 99 mustang spindles and when attached and adjusted there are very few threads on the inner tie rod. Is there a longer inner or outer tie rod that can be attached to the existing rack? Would the 99 mustang rack be better or easier or even compatible?

I will get pictures of the rear end today.

Sorry, when I said manual everything I meant door locks and windows.

[93lxscreampuff]

Looks like an awesome project looking forward to more updates

[ZephyrEFI]

For your coil spring, get the Maximum Motorsports spring installation tool. It helps, but that job still REALLY sucks. I don't plan to do it EVER AGAIN.

[Patrick Olsen]

I reused the mount from the Fairmont for right now. I was reading about spherical bearings and caster camber plates.

I believe that the SN95 struts you're using are longer than the Fox struts, so some C/C plates would be a good idea. They would allow you to effectively move the top mount up, which would gain back some of the bump travel that you lose by using the longer struts.

On that note, does anyone have some info on the PS rack situation. I have 99 mustang spindles and when attached and adjusted there are very few threads on the inner tie rod. Is there a longer inner or outer tie rod that can be attached to the existing rack? Would the 99 mustang rack be better or easier or even compatible?

I'm not positive about using the '99 rack, but I wouldn't be surprised if it is compatible. I'm pretty sure you'll have to get a "hybrid" steering shaft, though, as the rag joints are different. Flaming River offers a steering shaft to use an SN95 rack in a Fox, there may be other companies that do so, too.

As for the tie rod ends, I know years ago folks used to say that Taurus tie rod ends were the thing to use. But I'm looking around on the web now and can't find which years it was supposed to be. In doing that searching, I did find a thread here that will probably answer any questions you might have - http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ots-of-pics%29.

[roadkill]

You need to use Taurus outer tie rod ends, I forget the year. '92 to '95 comes to mind but don't take that as the gospel.

[78wagon]

From what I remember, the outer tie rods on a 94 mustang are longer in the threaded area as well. You could go to a parts store and compare before buying to make sure.

[dropstep]

love the wagon, im actually cruising around here to get motivated to work on mine after letting it sit all summer!

[Patrick Olsen]

From what I remember, the outer tie rods on a 94 mustang are longer in the threaded area as well.

The Fox and SN95 outer tie rods have different threads. If you want to use the SN95 outers, you have to use SN95 inners, too. I don't know if the SN95 inners would work on an '81 Fairmont rack.

[Happypants]

Sorry, mass update.

Axle installed (induction heaters are great). 3.55 gears and trac loc. Driveshaft up. Rear brakes plumbed. Front Brakes plumbed. Booster and master cylinder installed.

Right now I have the lines run directly to the master cylinder. I am going to need to get residual valves and an adjustable proportioning valve before we really play, but it stops. Clearancing the brake booster was fun, and by fun I mean not fun. The massage was not so bad, it was the drilling of the holes. How does everyone else run the brake line to the back? I just kind of followed the fuel line for now, but that can change.

With the axle, I removed the secondary shocks and everything bolted right up. I had to drill holes for the flex brake line brackets.

And with that I have a 5 lug, 4 wheel disc brake, trac loc, inline 6, auto Mus-mont.


And as a side note, I have my donor vehicle for the engine. It is a 97 Exploder with a fuel injected 5.0. Does anyone have any caveats? I am very well versed in electrical wiring and computer controlled systems.

I am still looking for a transmission. I am not taking apart the 4r70w just to put in an output shaft. Someone offered me a t5 that may need a rebuild. But If I go manual I will need a third pedal and master cylinder.

[ZephyrEFI]

Good progress! I'm using the stock brake lines to the rear. I spliced the proportioning valve in at the joint on the firewall.

And I vote do the T-5 swap.

[Travis T]

But If I go manual I will need a third pedal and master cylinder.

What do you mean master cylinder? Are you talking about slave cylinder? Mustangs use a clutch cable which you could use as well.

[Happypants]

Everyone loves pictures! Right!?
It is such a process to get these off the phone.

Master cylinder installed after deep tissue massage


Front flex line bracket location


New 8.8 axle out of a 97 Mustang GT


Installed axle with new rotor. Not pictured is where I drilled the flex line bracket to the frame.


New transmission. Its actually a tremec 3550.


So, apparently this is going to be a manual build. I have never built a Ford, let alone a Mustang, Fairmont, thingy. I did not know that Mustangs used a cable setup (which is probably the way I will go.) I know that I will have to modify the transmission crossmember to accomadate the longer mount and trim 3/4" off the driveshaft.

A couple of questions: Does anyone know if the 5.0 in the Explorer is drilled for a pilot bearing? What is the imbalance on the 97 explorer? Will the computer give me any guff because it is a manual, if so what computer will drop in? In the Fairmont, was there an option for manual, and if so is there a cut out space, or am I going to have to wing it? Am I going to have any driveshaft geometry issues?

On a side note... I had a manual 98 F150 on my lot with a clutch issue. It needed a new clutch master cylinder and line. When I described what was going on with it, everyone kept correcting me on the whole master cylinder/ slave cylinder thing. I started to doubt it myself. Thanks Travis.

[roadkill]

My '98 Explorer 5.0 is definitely drilled for a pilot bearing, and they have a 50oz imbalance.

[ukravit]

awesome build.

[Travis T]

Yeah I put an Explorer V8 in my GT and just knocked a pilot bearing into the crank no problem. I didn't realize you were new to the Mustang/Fairmont world, we got clutch cables because Ford was trying to build them cheap!

[ukravit]

any updates?

[Happypants]

Project was on hold for many reasons (time, money, material availability.) 97 Exploder motor removed with harness and such. Clutch pedal assembly acquired. Some money acquired.

I am about to purchase a UPR kit that includes tubular k member, control arms and coil over springs(~580.) Also looking for camber/caster plates. Sourcing oil pan, oil pump, flywheel, flywheel bolts, and clutch.

With the UPR kit, there are three choices; 79-93 QA1, 94-95 and 96-04. From what I have learned, these will all bolt up with a little help. I also do realize that this will push the tires out one inch (remembering I have 99 knuckles.) I believe after 93 there was a change to the geometry of the steering rack to reduce bump steer which I would like to take advantage of if the fairmont rack bolts up. I suppose I could upgrade the rack, tie rods, steering shaft but you know ... money.

Does anyone have measurements?

On a side note: people in Cleveland suck. I had my 72 Cutlass parked in the street over night and someone hit it. I actually had to make a deal and trade the inline 6, trans, axle and stuff to have it fixed.

[83gtstang]

Love the wagon!

[Happypants]

Small steps. Sorted out the k member. Going with the 79-93 K member to reduce width, and keep the engine mounting in the same place. I had communication with UPR and discussed the problem of bump steer using my 99 spindles. I have read from maximum motorsports that the tie rod would have to occupy the same space as the spindle tang. The tentative solution being a bump steer kit and offset bushings; we will see if this works in practice. Another cool thing about this kit is that they allow you to select a spring rate. I got the 14175 Street/Strip Spring or Big Block Drag car springs.

Car has now been brought down to the shop, engine ready to pull. Next problems: Castor/Camber plates, Flywheel, Clutch.



Engine, wiring harness with labels, and computer



This is the stuff that keeps me busy. How?! This dissuades me from ever using hypereutectic pistons in anything performance.