Battery goes dead overnight.

[84GT350CONV]

Just got a new battery for my car and overnight something pulled it down and discharged it overnight.
I recently installed a missing dashpot on the car for the carburetor. There was a jumper wire that went from the green wire at the dashpot over to a module next to the battery tray that I removed because I heard it was there to keep the air conditioning working without a dashpot. Removing that jumper wire did not cause anything to not work properly. The other side of that green wire went into the wiring harness that goes to the drivers side of the car. That is currently disconnected.
Does anybody have a wiring diagram for an 84 GT V8 with air conditioning? If not, can someone direct me how this should properly wired up to the stock configuration.
Thanks for any help.

[bob85gt]

go to the electrical main page, at the top there is a sticky , it has wiring diagrams.

[84GT350CONV]

go to the electrical main page, at the top there is a sticky , it has wiring diagrams.

Unfortunately I currently don't have that information. I am seeking it.

[Dean_T]

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...79-1986-in-PDF

Try this. - Good luck in your search for where the wire goes.

[84GT350CONV]

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...79-1986-in-PDF

Try this. - Good luck in your search for where the wire goes.

Thanks a lot Dean T.

[liv2roc]

if you removed the full throttle switch that cuts the ac and alt off it has to be wired together for them to work

[84GT350CONV]

if you removed the full throttle switch that cuts the ac and alt off it has to be wired together for them to work

I rigged it so that the full throttle switch now is in place and will work. So what I'm doing is putting it back to the original way it came from the factory.
Thanks a bunch for the additional diagram.
Dean T. The one you sent me is very helpful. I've been studying the diagrams today. Now I do have a clue how to return it back to the original way it was.
Hopefully this is the issue and not a short somewhere else dragging the battery down. Two full days on 2 amp charge and it's now up to about 9.5 volts so it killed it good.

[84GT350CONV]

I'm still having problems. The diagrams have helped a little. Problem is not all the color codes on the diagram match up to what is on the car. To get the AC working without the dashpot and micro switch the previous owner did a horrible job running a jumper to get it working without a dashpot and switch. One of the wires run went from a green wire on the drivers side over to a metal electrical canister located under the starter solenoid. I removed that for now as it was obvious it was a add on to make the AC work without the dashpot or solenoid. Unfortunately when I started digging in there to look a few of the wires pulled loose from crimp on connectors and I'm not 100% sure where all of them belong. I'm trying to avoid purchasing a new $380.00 wiring harness just to figure out what goes where correctly.
Still getting a slow drain on the battery that will kill it overnight. When I put an ohmmeter across the battery terminals without the battery on it, I get a reading of about 2 ohms. The AC works correctly and I believe the micro switch is doing its job also of cutting out the AC at wide open throttle. Although that is a little harder to verify.
If anyone can still help it would be great.

[84GT350CONV]

Ok. Still having problems. I bit the bullet and replaced the part of the wiring harness from foxresto.com that goes on top of the engine. That solved part of my issue. Now instead of the battery being killed overnight it will take two days. Still must have another short somewhere. Does anybody know other common problem areas I should look at? I'm thinking of starting at the battery/solenoid area and take it from there. Does any other manufacturer out there sell the rest of the harness?

[jsfrv6]

Pull your positive battery cable and put your meter in series with the cable and the battery so you can see the load. Start pulling fuses till the load disapears. What ever circuit that fuse feeds is the culprit...

Good luck... BTW... I hate electrical problems...

[84GT350CONV]

Pull your positive battery cable and put your meter in series with the cable and the battery so you can see the load. Start pulling fuses till the load disapears. What ever circuit that fuse feeds is the culprit...

Good luck... BTW... I hate electrical problems...

Thanks. I was thinking of disconnecting individual wire connectors till the load disappears, but I'll do your method first. I'm trying to see if there is another problem area that is common for these cars to do this. Like a component causing this?
Yeah, it's a pain but I will be persistent till I figure this one out.

[Aussie4eyed]

Keep us posted!

[84GT350CONV]

I think I'm going to look at the alternator next. I worked on a 88 F150 that drove me crazy this way. Same problem killing the battery. It would show it charging when the engine was running so I thought it was o.k. Wrong. After I replaced the alternator the problem went away. Ford definitely had alternator issues during the eighties. I believe it was something about diodes going bad.

[JACook]

Can't say as I've ever had any diode issues with any Ford 1G alternator, but I did go through a spell
with reman alternators that the rotor windings would open up, and/or short to ground from high RPM.
One thing to keep in mind about diodes, they rarely fail shorted, moreso in an alternator, where a
shorted diode on the battery side will end up trying to pass a few hundred amps to ground. It won't
stay shorted for long.

But transistors do often fail with a collector-emitter short, so a regulator that isn't turning off is far
more likely than bad diodes. A shorted regulator will still charge at a fixed rate, and the field circuit
will draw current when the ignition is off.

The same test as above can be done on anything in the system, including the alternator, you just can't
pull fuses to isolate it. But you can disconnect the alternator to see if the draw goes away. Likewise
the regulator. If you do find a shorted regulator, be very suspicious that the alternator caused it.

There are also a few high-draw circuits that do not get fed through the fuse box. Some of these, like
the ECU and fuel pump relay on injected cars, are fed by fusible links that are connected to the battery
cable terminal on the starter relay. Those are easy to disconnect. Not so easy are the things that are
fed by the bundle of fusible links that spill out of the harness below the starter relay. Two of those go
directly to the fuse box and ignition switch, but Convertible Top, Rear Defrost, and Electric Fan on 4-cyl
models will have fusible links there.

Also if your car has an underhood light, don't over look that. It's also fed by a small fusible link on the
battery cable terminal of the starter relay.

[84GT350CONV]

Can't say as I've ever had any diode issues with any Ford 1G alternator, but I did go through a spell
with reman alternators that the rotor windings would open up, and/or short to ground from high RPM.
One thing to keep in mind about diodes, they rarely fail shorted, moreso in an alternator, where a
shorted diode on the battery side will end up trying to pass a few hundred amps to ground. It won't
stay shorted for long. Far more likely is a regulator that is not turning off.

The same test as above can be done on anything in the system, including the alternator, you just can't
pull fuses to isolate it. But you can disconnect the alternator to see if the draw goes away. Likewise
the regulator.

There are also a few high-draw circuits that do not get fed through the fuse box. Some of these, like
the ECU and fuel pump relay on injected cars, are fed by fusible links that are connected to the battery
cable terminal on the starter relay. Those are easy to disconnect. Not so easy are the things that are
fed by the bundle of fusible links that spill out of the harness below the starter relay. Two of those go
directly to the fuse box and ignition switch, but Convertible Top, Rear Defrost, and Electric Fan on 4-cyl
models will have fusible links there.

Also if your car has an underhood light, don't over look that. It's also fed by a small fusible link on the
battery cable terminal of the starter relay.

Thanks once again Jeff. You definitely helped me though my carburetor issues earlier. Runs great now.
My next step was going to be to pull the leads off the alternator to see if it will pull the battery down. Was thinking about the regulator too.
My under hood light has been flickering so I'll look at that too.
If my neighbor doesn't need help with his car today I'll look at it. Tomorrows out, it's time to go to NHRA nationals.

[84GT350CONV]

I replaced the alternator and voltage regulator at the same time and the problem went away. I did notice the voltage regulator was not bolted down tight to the wheel well. In the instructions it indicated that if the voltage regulator was not grounded well where the mounting bolts were at it will cause the regulator to fail. Had to go up one size on a lag screw to correct stripped out holes in the wheel well.
Was thinking about rebuilding the original Motorcraft alternator as I saw kits available. Has anybody rebuilt one? If so any tips on doing this?

[jsfrv6]

Was thinking about rebuilding the original Motorcraft alternator as I saw kits available. Has anybody rebuilt one? If so any tips on doing this?

Glad you got your problem fixed... As far as rebuilding an alternator, piece of cake... Most of the time it only one thing wrong but if you get a kit thats even better...mark the front and back halfs so you get them oriented correctly upon assembly. The only trick is holding the brushes back while you assemble the unit. I usually use a small drill or a toothpick... The kit should come with instructions....

Does the kit come with stator and rotor? if not, make sure you test the stator. If the slip rings, where the brushes ride on the rotor, are gouged it will need to be replaced as well... Any alternator/started rebuild shop can test these parts for you...

[84GT350CONV]

Glad you got your problem fixed... As far as rebuilding an alternator, piece of cake... Most of the time it only one thing wrong but if you get a kit thats even better...mark the front and back halfs so you get them oriented correctly upon assembly. The only trick is holding the brushes back while you assemble the unit. I usually use a small drill or a toothpick... The kit should come with instructions....

Does the kit come with stator and rotor? if not, make sure you test the stator. If the slip rings, where the brushes ride on the rotor, are gouged it will need to be replaced as well... Any alternator/started rebuild shop can test these parts for you...

Thanks. I'll have to check to see what the rebuild kits contain. Seems to me that you should be able to test the stator and rotor with a multi-meter. I've already rebuilt my convertible top pump with an "O" ring kit From Convertible Top Guys so I should be able to handle it. Right now it has an cheapo AutoZone alternator and regulator on it to get me going, so rebuilding the alternator and finding an Motorcraft voltage regulator to put back on it is my goal.