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  1. #1

    Default Advice on How to Buy Unseen & Long Distance

    I’m making an offer on DeadStang’s 84 GT 350 in the classified section. I’m going do this sight unseen. I’m in D.C. the car is in Oregon.
    I think the price is right…what I’m looking for is advice on how to do this with lowest or acceptable risk. I may be willing to spend a little for help reduce risk but not a lot. I’ve got to get it shipped too.
    Anybody got a recommendation on a shipping company. I’ve got many quotes but looking for reputable company.
    Thoughts?
    Anybody in Albany Oregon that can help

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member mustangmania's Avatar
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    I've bought at least 6 cars long distance, unseen. My method has worked every time and the cars were always as, or better than expected. I spend on average, 2 hours on the phone vetting the car with the seller. I ask a lot of questions. I ask for a lot of pictures, copies of documentation, etc. Most people who are car guys will answer your questions to your satisfaction and you develop a mini relationship with the person.

    Occasionally you get the person who says "pictures are in the ad", "don't know", and other evasive answers. That's when you move on. Any red flag in the pictures or in their answers is another sign to move on. If the person takes a long time to get back to you or give you pictures or paper work, or are lax in any way, they will be doubly lax after they get your money. People on this board know cars, I'm amazed how much they can glean from a few crummy pics in a Craigslist ad. Use that skill. Look at all of the pictures carefully. Ask for more. Use your judge of character too. You can tell when people are making stuff up. I had a guy tell me he bought the car from the original owner. I did a CarFax and it had 5 owners. I called him back and he said "guess I'm the fifth owner, maybe you need to go look for an original owner car." Which I promptly said, "I will". On eBay, look at feedback. If there is negative, ask why, ask what happened.

    Scan and email documents in advance, put everything in writing. For my 1981 Hatch, I bought it from California. The owner and I typed up an agreement and both signed, scanned and emailed back to one another. I sent him a check, it cleared, and he sent me the title. The shipper picked it up.

    I've used a lot of shippers. This is usually where problems occur. A driver damaged the trans line on my 81 Hatch, another driver drove my 73 mustang without antifreeze (it had all leaked out on his trailer). Lots of delays and getting no status is common. They make money filling their hauler with cars in one trip and taking the shortest distance. That may mean your car is delivered last. I've had success with people who have a one-car hauler, so the only car is mine.

    Most of this you already know and is common sense. Due diligence is key!!!

    Good luck and beware of Tim Everhardt!!

    Bill
    Last edited by mustangmania; 08-21-2014 at 11:23 AM.
    1986 Mustang GT w/T-Tops

  3. #3

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    I made the mistake of buying a car sight unseen, and I didn't listen to the advice that Mustangmania just gave. My gut feeling told me to walk away, but I wanted the car so much I took a chance. It was the absolute WORST decision I have ever made. If anything rubs you the wrong way, if the seller isn't willing to take the time to talk to you about the car or they make you feel rushed or stupid (for asking anything), if they don't take and send you pics of everything you want to see, or they don't follow through on anything they promise....WALK AWAY.

    I wish I could go back and do my deal all over again, but I'm stuck with my decision. Don't make the same mistakes I made. To be honest, I will never buy another car sight unseen so if I was you I would just keep looking, but if you follow Mustangmania's advice you should be ok. I just didn't use my head and when I finally saw my seller for the person he really is, it was too late. I had paid the money and I was stuck.

    Good luck and keep us posted.
    Cheers!

    Mike (TopGear85)



    Have:
    85 Saleen #73-GT,2R,TuTone,Cruise,Pos,5spd,Charcoal
    ***August 2015 ROTM Winner!***

    Had:
    79PC-San Jose #2890
    86GT-9L,TuTone,5spd,T-Tops,Sand Beige
    86GT-9L,TuTone,5spd,T-Tops,Charcoal
    90LX-Oxford Wht,5spd,Sunroof,5.0 Hatchback
    90GT-Oxford Wht,5spd

  4. #4

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    Thanks for the advice...Deadstang has been great about answering all my questions. I'm pretty comfortable. I'm looking forward to getting the car!

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    I have bought parts in various parts of the country and even north of the border. If I have any reserve about the deal, I locate a fellow board member from this site or another site to see if they can check out the item as a 3rd party (neutral). If they come back with positive info, go for it. If negative, either renegotiate the deal or terminate it. I had BlackMamba check out an 84 1/2 front end for me. Price was $150. Sent him money for time and gas. Got negative info on the part and terminated the deal. In my eyes, I paid $50 to find out if a good deal or not, instead of spending $150 for a bad deal.
    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

  6. #6

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    Thanks for all the advice. It’s been helpful. Just working on selecting an auto transporter now. The T-Tops do leak so the seller is recommending I opt to have it shipped enclosed. Any thoughts or recommendations?

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member mustangmania's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crimson_Stang View Post
    Thanks for all the advice. It’s been helpful. Just working on selecting an auto transporter now. The T-Tops do leak so the seller is recommending I opt to have it shipped enclosed. Any thoughts or recommendations?
    Enclosed shipping is way more expensive. I live in Detroit and had my 81 Hatch shipped from California in an open trailer and it cost $1100. It was winter and my car has t-tops, but they don't leak. It made it ok, but full of snow and road salt.

    If the rubber is not cracked or ripped, sometimes they are just dirty and don't seal properly. I wash the seals with soap and water, dry them and then spray with Silicone spray and wipe it in. This reseals the t-tops very well and won't leak. If the rubber is bad or the car is tweaked in any way, they won't seal. If the leak is not bad, maybe the seller could put a blanket inside the car to catch the drips? Usually you use an enclosed trailer for a Ferrari or a Shelby, etc.

    Here is how mine looked when I got it.

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    1986 Mustang GT w/T-Tops

  8. #8

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    Sweet pony there..... mine was 2 tone but still this brings back alot of memories.

  9. #9
    FEP Member BrianM's Avatar
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    Pretty much everything said above. Lots of photos and talk to the seller in depth. I just sold long distance and think all involved with the transaction were very pleased. Lots of communication is key. Both parties have to be willing to do a long distance deal not just the buyer.
    1970 U14 Bronco
    1983 911 SC
    Sold - 1986 SVO 1D #9823

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member conmech's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crimson_Stang View Post
    Thanks for all the advice. It’s been helpful. Just working on selecting an auto transporter now. The T-Tops do leak so the seller is recommending I opt to have it shipped enclosed. Any thoughts or recommendations?
    From where to where? I have a buddy in the auto transport business.
    conmech - aka Marshall
    Pending build-1983 Mercury Capri RS NOT staying as it left the showroom floor......
    Sonic blue pearl, sand beige, netted halos, FR500 wheels and shiny under the hood.

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