'86 TC MS2x with LS coils install thread

[bleavitt23]

I'm working on getting a 'squirt installed in my '86. I've already done some of the work. I bought it used and so far I've plugged it in to pull the tune off of it and fabbed up a bracket to hold the coils. I also welded on the bung for the wideband and started installing it. I'm waiting on the funds to get a set of custom wires from Magnecor. After that I'll make some progress, but until that time I'm in a holding pattern. I'll post up some more info and photos later. Just wanted to get the thread started for now.

[Chuck W]

I'd like to go COP or WS on the '83.

Your box already configured for the COP?

[bleavitt23]

Your box already configured for the COP?

Yes it is. It's a Wilson unit - the "Raptor 2 Stage 2" setup.

It came with all of this (MS box, Laptop Cable, Coil Harness, Coils, Trigger Wheel):


It had also been upgraded to the latest firmware just before I bought it.

So like I said - I've started the install, but I haven't gotten exceptionally far. I've had it since May and I've just been brainstorming on where everything is going to go, and actually working on it in little bits here and there. The biggest hurdle I've run in to is where to locate the coils. I'm not running a rotated intake so I couldn't put them on the valve cover like most people seem to do. After some thought and a while of puzzling over the car, I settled on the passenger strut tower for now, which is why I need the custom plug wires. fortunately, Magnecor will make a custom set for the same price as a stock set. In this case, it's going to be a little over $100, but they should last quite some time.

Before tackling the coil situation, I decided to work on the wideband install. I've had it for over a year, but I've been to lazy to do anything with it. I know the o2 sensor is supposed to be at least 18 inches away from the turbo. I got close - right about 17.5" just before the turn at the bottom of the downpipe.


With that out of the way, I got to work making a bracket for the coils. This is what I came up with:


Obviously I'm no fabricator... and I don't know what happened to the paint. It was supposed to be low gloss black, but it ended up with a white haze. I think maybe it was the humidity that did it?

Eventually they will be moved to the valve cover, but this is where they will live for now:


I'm going to throw some paint on that inner fender before they get installed.

That's where I'm at right now. My wife's car is in the garage at the moment because it's a VW piece of crap and breaks all the time, but I'm going to be ordering the wires within the next couple of days and after that, and when I can get my car back in the garage, things should move more quickly.

[tonyorlo]

Nice! Ill be following this. Im currently converting my carbed 80 2.3 to ms2. I would like to do a COP setup, but tfi was easier at the moment.

[bleavitt23]

Originally I was planning on getting a Pimp, but this one popped up and I got it for $200 less than the Pimp would have been, so I couldn't pass it up!

I ordered wires from Magnecor last night. Also got a set of 83lb. injectors from Stinger the night before, as well as new rear brake parts (not from Stinger) because my parking brake is totally locked up on the left side for some reason. The only thing I have left to purchase is a plug so I can disconnect the coil harness from the squirt in case I have to remove it.

[bleavitt23]

I may actually be able to get back to work on this soon! I had to take a break to do some things for work for the past couple of months.

I got a Ram Mount so I can mount my Toughbook in the car and not have it flop around on the seat. I think it's going to work perfectly, but I have to fab up something to attach the holder to the car.

Here's a list of things I need to do (that I can remember):
1: Make Mount for the Laptop Mount (this will make more sense when I get a photo of the final product)
2: Finish New Gauge Pod for Boost and A/F Gauges
3: Finish Installing A/F Gauge and Tie it in to MS Wiring
4: Drill & Tap Hole for Air Temp Sensor, Install, & Run Wiring
5: Mount New Coil Setup & Run New Plug Wires
6: Route Coil Wiring into Cabin and Install Quick Disconnects on Wires
7: Install Relay in Place of Old Coil to Run Tach
8: Install new 83lb. Injectors
9: Install MS
10: Route a Hose from the Vac Tree to the MS
11: Install Trigger Wheel in Dizzy and Modify TFI Wiring
12: Make a Couple of Adjustments to Current Tune and Hope it Starts!

Right now I have seven boxes of parts sitting in the garage that need to go on the car and, honestly, I can't even remember what is in some of them anymore. Too much stuff kept coming up and delaying progress. I was hoping to have it done for a race a week ago, but obviously that didn't happen. I just pulled the car back into the garage today, for the first time in maybe three months.

[bleavitt23]

Little bit of progress cleaning up the right inner fender.

Before (well... during - this was after the acetone, wire brush, and rust converter):


And After:


Slow, but steady is what I'm trying for here...

[82GTforME]

Slow, but steady is what I'm trying for here...

Progress is progress. I'm on that slow but steady pace myself right now. Good luck, it's looking better A little love goes a long way...

[bleavitt23]

Thanks, 82 - Unfortunately, it'll be slowing down even more as the weather gets colder. I have a deep rooted hatred for cold weather...

I got a little more done tonight. Drilled and tapped the hole in the upper for the ACT sensor. Since the upper and TB were out anyways, I sand blasted them and painted them low gloss black. Looks better than dirty aluminum and rust...

[bleavitt23]

Got a bit more work done. The plug wires are in and the coils are wired, and I'm extremely happy with Magnecor's work, They fit perfectly and are real solid feeling. Also got the MS itself put in its' new home and totally wired, installed and wired in the act sensor, installed the trigger wheel and relay, and modified the TFI harness. I also powered it up and tested for fuel pump and IAC functionally and all is well so far. Only things keeping me from trying to start now are finishing the WB install and making sure the tune is safe to fire. Just remembered that I still need to make an EGR block-off plate as well.

[bleavitt23]

Almost Done! Got the new gauges installed. I switched direction in the "gauge pod" to make it easier on myself. Instead of forming and fiberglassing a whole pod, I just put them in the A/C vents. I think it still looks pretty good, though. I also figured out what to do about the distributor cap as I didn't want the regular cap just sitting there lookin' ugly. Gotta update the list here.


1: Make Mount for the Laptop Mount (this will make more sense when I get a photo of the final product)
2: *done* Finish New Gauge Pod for Boost and A/F Gauges
3: *done* Finish Installing A/F Gauge and Tie it in to MS Wiring
4: *done* Drill & Tap Hole for Air Temp Sensor, Install, & Run Wiring
5: *done* Mount New Coil Setup & Run New Plug Wires
6: *done* Route Coil Wiring into Cabin and Install Quick Disconnects on Wires
7: *done* Install Relay in Place of Old Coil to Run Tach
8: *done* Install new 83lb. Injectors
9: *done* Install MS
10: *done* Route a Hose from the Vac Tree to the MS
11: *done* Install Trigger Wheel in Dizzy and Modify TFI Wiring
12 Make block-off plate for EGR
13: Make a Couple of Adjustments to Current Tune and Hope it Starts!






Also - Ever since I put in the new gauge cluster with the EL gauges, I've had to turn the dash light brightness all the way down because the RPM and Speedo gauges both have big, lit circles in the middle which are way too big and way too bright on full power. So, since I was going to have the dash apart anyways, I finally got around to making block-off plates for them. Now, when I turn on the gauges it's not blinding, and I also added the T-Bird logo and the "TurboCoupe" text to the plates for a little custom action, which light up when the gauges are on.




BEFORE

AFTER

[Chuck W]

Good luck on the start up!

One note on something that I've spaced a couple times. Before you try and start it, calibrate your TPS in the software, and note the values. Then on your cranking settings, make sure that your "Flood Clear" (Raw) value is not too low. I chased that around for 3-4 days, trying to figure out why my injectors wouldn't fire. My flood clear value was set lower than my closed TPS value...derp.

[bleavitt23]

Hey thanks, Chuck! It's probably going to be next weekend when I get a chance to give 'er a go. The cold keeps me out of the garage for the most part, except for those nights when I am motivated enough to power through it.

Thanks for the tip. I didn't even know there was a 'flood clear' setting in TunerStudio...

[Chuck W]

Hey thanks, Chuck! It's probably going to be next weekend when I get a chance to give 'er a go. The cold keeps me out of the garage for the most part, except for those nights when I am motivated enough to power through it.

Thanks for the tip. I didn't even know there was a 'flood clear' setting in TunerStudio...

Basically it's mimicking the OE "foot-to-the-floor" to shut off the injectors upon cranking, if for some reason you've flooded the engine. Set it close to the Max value from your TPS calibration.

I felt like a complete idiot when I remembered that after chasing all other sorts of possible causes for no injectors while trying to get the swap running.

[bleavitt23]

I've got to do a lot more probing in TunerStudio. I haven't changed anything but the injector size in the current tune. I'm sure there are several other things in there that I'll need to review/change before the first attempt to fire it off. I know I need to calibrate the TPS and ECT sensors. Calibrating the TPS seems very simple, but I don't know about the ECT sensor. From what I've seen, I might need to know the ohms values? I haven't actually had a chance to check that out yet.

[bleavitt23]

Only one thing left on the list! Of course, the passenger side of the car is now a big mess, so I have to do some cleaning as well.


1: *done* Make Mount for the Laptop Mount (this will make more sense when I get a photo of the final product)
2: *done* Finish New Gauge Pod for Boost and A/F Gauges
3: *done* Finish Installing A/F Gauge and Tie it in to MS Wiring
4: *done* Drill & Tap Hole for Air Temp Sensor, Install, & Run Wiring
5: *done* Mount New Coil Setup & Run New Plug Wires
6: *done* Route Coil Wiring into Cabin and Install Quick Disconnects on Wires
7: *done* Install Relay in Place of Old Coil to Run Tach
8: *done* Install new 83lb. Injectors
9: *done* Install MS
10: *done* Route a Hose from the Vac Tree to the MS
11: *done* Install Trigger Wheel in Dizzy and Modify TFI Wiring
12: *done* Make block-off plate for EGR
13: Make a Couple of Adjustments to Current Tune and Hope it Starts!


Got my mount mount done:



The laptop is a Panasonic Toughbook so it's small and light - the RAM Mount holds it very securely. I've also calibrated the TPS, ECT, & ACT sensors. So far, everything seems to be communicating properly. I'm wondering about the AFR calibration, though. My sensor is an AEM 30-4100. The only options in TS, for AEM, are 30-4200 and some other one, but no 30-4100. I selected the 30-4200 and the gauge in TS changed, so it may work that way, but I don't know...


Here's the mobile command center!

[84StangSVT]

Also - Ever since I put in the new gauge cluster with the EL gauges, I've had to turn the dash light brightness all the way down because the RPM and Speedo gauges both have big, lit circles in the middle which are way too big and way too bright on full power. So, since I was going to have the dash apart anyways, I finally got around to making block-off plates for them. Now, when I turn on the gauges it's not blinding, and I also added the T-Bird logo and the "TurboCoupe" text to the plates for a little custom action, which light up when the gauges are on.

BEFORE

AFTER

Now that is sweet, a heck of an improvement and creative...I like it!

[bleavitt23]

Thank you, Brock. Before it was like driving with a flashlight shining at my face, but I was too lazy to deal with it.

Well - I am... disappointed. There appears to be an issue with the 'squirt. It's not getting the tach signal for some reason. Sent it in for repair. Now I wait.

[bleavitt23]

On the bright side, since I had to send it in anyways, I'm having boost control and launch control added.

[boboli]

That sucks. I'm planning on squirting my Tbird and I am just going to buy new. I am too afraid of buying someone else's problems

[bleavitt23]

The original plan was to PiMP in, but this deal was too good to pass up. The guy I bought it from is trustworthy, and it's entirely possible that it got messed up from bouncing around/being tossed around in the back of my car for a few months after I bought it. I just hope that I get it back in a reasonable amount of time.

[bleavitt23]

I got word that the 'squirt has been fixed. A pin on the ECU had broken. Now I'm waiting for the boost and launch control to be added.

[bleavitt23]

Hey guys!
I don't know if anyone is following this at all, but I have an update anyways. I got the box back (finally) a couple of months ago. Too cold to do much, but I Cleaned up the engine bay a bit while I was waiting.
BEFORE (But after cleaning and rust repair):


And AFTER:


So anyways - I eventually got it re-installed. Cranked it over annnnnddd.... still no PIP signal! Not a happy camper! Rechecked wiring changes and continuity and everything checked out. Then one time I was cranking it over I got ONE tiny blip of an RPM signal. Relayed that info to Wilson and he suggested adjusting a pot on the board. Did that and VIOLA! good clean RPM signal. BUT... still not even trying to start.

I left it again for a couple of weeks. Now that it's starting to warm up outside I really want to get the car out of the garage so I phoned Wilson to discuss the issue. I had already verified that all of the coils are firing so he suggested I take a look at the toothed wheel to make sure it's in the correct position at TDC. Well it's not even close. It's almost 180° out. So I have to restab the distributor to get it to where it's supposed to be. After I do that I'll try to start it again and hopefully the outcome will be more favorable.

Till next time...

[bleavitt23]

Geez I feel like I'm bringing this post back from the dead, now! I FINALLY got everything sorted with the Megasquirt and got her running!
It's been quite the opposite of smooth sailing getting to this point, but I'm a damn happy camper! I've not really done anything other than let it warm up and auto-tune the idle a bit. The safety inspection lapsed last year so that's one of the first things I have to do.

[brianj]

Nice! Now you need to get some on the road video!