Anybody ever use one of these.....? Do they work OK? Or should I wait till somebody can help....but that could take awhile?
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...kit-69328.html
Anybody ever use one of these.....? Do they work OK? Or should I wait till somebody can help....but that could take awhile?
http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...kit-69328.html
Scotty
1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
Past Pony's.....
68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White
Never really been a big fan of these, seems like at least in my case get a better pedal doing it the ole fashioned way! I'm sure if nothing else there has to be a member close to you that could at least pump the pedal for you while they drink a cold one!!! lol
I don't mind my Motive Products one. You just need to make sure you have plenty of extra brake fluid to use it.
Brad
'79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
'17 Ford Focus ST
'14 Ford Fusion SE Manual
I have a mighty-vac version of that, and it works ok, you have to look out for leaks around the bleed nipple, both where the tool slips on and where the nipple screws into the caliper/drum.
A pressure (as opposed to vacuum) bleeder will usually do a better job and is worth the investment, you'll find you'll flush your brake fluid more often when the job takes 15 minutes by yourself (while sipping a cold one) vs an hour or two with two people yelling 'open'/'closed' over and over and over again.
All you need is a old broomstick and a small pair of visegrips pump up the breaks several times stick the through the steering wheel and clamp the grips to the stick just below the wheel bottom and it will hold the pedal down just like a person can
So easy even a cat can do it!
Had the expensive Mighty-Vac until it broke.
Bought the Harbor Freight unit for about $15 8 years ago.
Still works great!
Lots of FREE F/Z info on my site.
http://myzephyrs.com
Thanks for replies......I think I'll go ahead and try one of these. Or I'll get my cat Shelby to do it for me.........!
Scotty
1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
Past Pony's.....
68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White
I have one, worked ok for the front, but my compressor cant seem to keep up for the rear....I was a little disappointed
.
You can do a one man bleeding job using nothing more than a rubber hose that fits tightly over the bleeder screw (Foxes usually require 2 different sizes) a quart container and a couple quarts of new brake fluid. Starting at the passenger rear brake, loosen the bleeder screw just enough that fluid flows out of the screw, but not around the threads. Push the rubber hose onto the bleeder screw, it needs to be a tight/snug fit. Place the other end of the hose in the quart container. Pour in new brake fluid until the hose is submerged in brake fluid by at least 1/2". Now make sure your M/C is full of fluid, then get in the car. Push the brake pedal down, but not all the way to the floor. Sometimes a small 2x4 or 4x4 under the pedal helps to prevent you from going all the way down. Slowly release the pedal and repeat this process 5-10 times. Always make sure you don't drain the M/C of fluid as it will suck air and you will have to start the process all over again. Double check your fluid in your M/C and refill as needed. Check your quart container, there should be more fluid in it than when you started. Fluid will most likely be old and nasty If there isn't more fluid, check the bleeder screw to make sure that it is loose enough for flow again. Repeat the process as needed. I generally flush @ 10-16 oz of fluid from each corner of the car. If you get a mixing quart cup it makes it easier to measure the amount of fluid.
Once you are satisfied with the passenger rear tighten the bleeder screw up and then start the whole process over again by moving to the driver rear, then passenger front, and finally the driver's front. I will generally use 1-1.5 quarts of new fluid during this process, but at this point the entire brake system should be flushed and filled with new fluid. I can usually do a Mustang in an hour or less by myself sometimes even less if I don't have to go hunting for hose, cups, etc.
I then generally go drive the car around the block for about 10-15 mins to check the brakes at low speeds, if they feel good then I might get up on a 50-60MPH road and check them there too. If there are any issues, I immediately head back home. Sometimes even after doing everything and it checking out well, I will do one additional bleeding round on the car with just one set of 5-10 pedal pumps per brake just to make sure I got all the air out. This process has worked really well for me over the years on all my vehicle NON ABS & ABS without issues. No equipment to worry about and can be done by yourself if needed. If you have a spotter to look for air in the quart cup when you are pressing the brake pedal you can shorten up the time it takes too.
Good Luck!
Trey
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
I follow the procedure Trey mentioned. I did have one of the "DIY Brake Bleeder" kits. It worked okay, but I always had trouble with the hoses/lines not fitting snug enough to the bleeder screw nipple. By the time I had the correct size hoses/lines, it was a push as far as "ease of use" goes.
I'd like to have a "positive pressure" bleeder system, but that probably won't happen. I have thought about finding a spare M/C cap, drilling a hole in it, adding a 1/4-turn ball valve, and a container for brake fluid. I envision screwing on the cap, filling the container, opening the 1/4-turn valve, and bleeding the brakes like I always do. When finished, I close the 1/4-turn valve, place a rag around the cap, remove the cap, clean up as needed, and take a test drive. Keeping the M/C full is the important thing. I always check the M/C after I bleed each corner, so I never bothered trying to build the "container" cap setup.
Craig "IDMooseMan" Peters
1979 Mustang Ghia Notchback, 2.3L, Holley 5200, 4-spd, 3.08:1 7.5" diff, A/C, PS, PB, AM/FM/8-Track, Sunroof, Rear Defroster
USAF SSgt 63170 1983 - 1992; Co-Founder, Vice President, Omega Delta Sigma, ID-A 2/2015
To those that serve and have served, "Thank You", to those that haven't, "You're Welcome"
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I could try the Trey method first. I do have to bleed it all way round and I have hoses from bleeding it before that fit very snug. Thanks Trey!
Scotty
1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
Past Pony's.....
68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White
No problem!
Personally the method works very well for me. I am not shy about using plenty of fluid as I consider it cheap insurance and I would prefer to spend $20 or so on fluid and not have to worry about the brakes than wreck my car because I was being cheap!
The trick as I mentioned is loosening the bleed screw just enough that fluid will flow, but not too much where it can suck air around the threads when you release the brake pedal. That plus having a tight fit on the screw with the rubber hose will ensure that no air can get into the brake lines when you are bleeding them.
Good Luck!
Trey
Trey
"I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"
"I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."
Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
Current Mustangs:
1969 Mach 1
1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently
Current Capris:
1981 Capri Roller
1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts
Pressure bleed is easiest but more costly unless you do a lot of cars.
I use the Trey method too. One man job. Great results.
A 24 oz plastic bottle, inside a glass wide mouth quart jar to stabilize, it works good.
Use a deep tin square baking pan under it all in case the cat knocks over the jar.
Support the hose with a zip tie or two somewhere in case you bump the jar or snag the tubing.
I leave space (no cap) to let the air out of the catch bottle.
Yellow pipe tape on bleeder screw threads to minimize air getting sucked back in.
Spray bleeder screw day ahead of time with penetrating oil.
Use small 1/4" 6 pt socket to minimize rounding of screw when breaking it loose.
1/4-1/2 turn open is enough.
Use open or box wrench to snug bleeder closed with hose full of fluid still connected.
Pump until no air bubbles are visible to get sucked back up when the pedal comes up.
1/2 quart is no big deal to use up doing this getting that 2nd section of air out.
Air slugs and bubbles get smaller and smaller, less frequent, as the procedure progresses.
With a long say 2' clear vinyl plastic hose you can see the air movement.
Get the right size hose to connect directly onto screw tightly. Home Depot, etc.
The long hose will help with this. Toward the end, the bubbles never quite make it back up to the wheel cyl.
Good for the side you cant see.
Cap the bottle and save 1/3 or so of the old fluid for next time. Not to refill of m/c of course.
is stored in a plastic shoe box or the like, clean and ready.
Refilling the m/c is the hardest part.
The valve/cap idea is good. Have seen kits for this.
Turn off the fluid supply ahead of time. Finish pump cycles to drop the level a little.
So it will not spill out when removing the setup.
A pressure system from Motive will run you $50-70 depending on the cap you need, the more expensive one will fit the earlier Mustang MC's, the cheaper will fit the aero and later MC's (for those that have done a brake swap), the cheaper one is also compatible with a LOT of later model vehicles (not just Fords), so it can server double/triple duty. A MightyVac will run you $30-40, not a whole lot more for a much better system. But obviously more expensive than just using a couple of jars. If you're handy you can build one yourself using a spare MC lid, a pressure gauge, some type of valve, and a pressure sprayer (you buy them at Harbor freight, home depot, etc) - throw a fitting into the MC lid, attach it to the sprayer hose withe valve inline, put a pressure gauge on the sprayer and you've got you're own setup going.
As for Fluid, I'm like Trey, I'm not shy about using it. For street cars I just run whatever namebrand stuff I can find at the auto parts store, $5-6 bucks for a litre bottle and I'll pick up a few. When doing any kind of brake work that will/might introduce air into the sytem (changing a hose, rebuilding a caliper, etc) I'll burn through quite a bit. For a simple bleed I'll probably use most of the litre bottle. Since I don't drive my car as much as some do I'll usually do a quick bleed once a year while doing the normal stuff, oil change, grease the zerks, etc. Also, remember once you open the bottle/break the seal it will start sucking up moisture, so it probably doesn't pay to keep an opened bottle around.
I use the rubber hose method as well, but I put an emissions-type check valve on the end of it,
and place that into an empty jar to collect the old fluid. I have found that if you just barely crack
the bleed screw open, the additional system pressure does a better job of pushing out the air,
without drawing air back in past the bleeder screw threads on the upstroke.
Cheers,
Jeff Cook
'85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
'79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
'68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune
Prob would work for hyd clutch bleeding too.
Gee now i remember why i bought the 2 pack of garden sprayers for 8.00.
I did build the m/c cap for the Ranger (round).
Used m/c caps work fine.
Am going to add a shut off valve and tee for a pressure gauge.
The 1/2 gal 40.00 Motive one (without adaptor) is cost effective considering brakes are a safety item.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Motive+Product...FQwNaQodhy0A2w
http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed...atech/bleeder/
Last edited by gr79; 07-24-2014 at 11:48 AM.
Thanks so much guys. I'm going to try it this Sunday. I'm not shy about using fluid as well, it's the cheapest part of redoing your brakes...!
Scotty
1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
Past Pony's.....
68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White
Something I've noticed with bleed screws is that the fit of the screw is usually quite good on OE stuff and VERY mixed on replacement parts. I've had drum cylinders that would basically pour fluid out between the threads if they were anything but tight - even not-quite-finger loose and it would drip, and then some that wouldn't weap/leak fluid or air until the bleed screw almost fell out.
I usually yellow 'teflon' tape things like bleed screws, the yellow tape (supposedly) doesn't break down in brake fluid.
How about check valve bleeder speed bleeder screws?
Never saw the need for the speed bleeder screws, though they do come with some kinda sealer on
the threads. I've thought about using some Teflon paste sealer on my bleeder screw threads, but
I've never really had any problems getting a good bleed. I never use Teflon tape on automobiles.
Cheers,
Jeff Cook
'85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
'79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
'68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune
So a buddy gave me this one to use........
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=46839_0_0_
Worked perfect. Bleeding is done. Thanks for all the replies guys!
Scotty
1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
Past Pony's.....
68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White
Just bought and used the mighty-vac,on sale $40 from harbor freight to bleed the brakes on my jeep.Worked pretty well
Nick. 86 vert GT,p-heads trick flow springs,explorer intake,off road H,super 44's,still speed density
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