Close



Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 26 to 43 of 43
  1. #26
    FEP Supporter 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    1,154

    Default

    Hmmm, go to autoplicity.com and check order in upper right corner? (What a miserable website!)

    Mike
    1985 ascMcLaren 5.0 SC Roadster
    My '78 Fairmont build - http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...539-78-Big-Red

  2. #27

    Default

    Well I have an order number and the item is paid for. I am hoping that someone somewhere had this item on their shelf and I bought it. Next will be the actual fuel tank which amazingly is still available on summit!

  3. #28

    Default

    Btw followed the link in your posts to your fairmont build...very nice! Should be an awesome 4 banger!

  4. #29
    FEP Senior Member Greywolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Richmond, ME
    Posts
    893

    Default

    For what it's worth; the sender being similar to the Mustang senders of similar age--and since the top plate is similar on several Ford models--there is an option still; a bit of work but it should work with tinkering.
    The lock ring is the same as the Thunderbirds (fuel injected) from 83-97, F150 (fuel injected) from 85-97 and a whole host of other Fords; but those two are probably the easiest to find.
    So get a fuel pump assembly from one of those. If you're lucky, the gauge sender will work for you. If not, buy one from a Mustang of the same year as your dash (10-73 ohm, as described elsewhere, for most of our cars, etc etc) or the one that would have been original to your car "if available".
    You'll need to mount that sender to the plate just the same as you'll be hacking up and fitting the fuel pump as described in other threads.
    You'll need to adjust the float so it swings freely from top to bottom to show the tank level.
    You'll need to adjust the outlet pipes so they clear the stuff on the tank (so you can attach your fuel lines).

    It's not "plug and play" but it shouldn't be all that hard, and considering the hacking we're doing with a high pressure pump even if we get the part we really wanted, it's really not all that much more work for a basically new fuel pump and sender assembly.

  5. #30

    Default

    Yeah. They cancelled and refunded me today. I will just repair the one I have.

  6. #31

    Default

    Did you guys think of trying another brand? haha
    1979 Mercury Zephyr Wag' complete with woodgrain
    1986 Mercury Capri Black 5.0/5 speed T-top
    1979 Ford Mustang Coupe 2.3/auto
    1983 Ford Mustang Coupe 2.3T/T5

  7. #32
    FEP Power Member Ford'sCapri's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Elyria, Ohio
    Posts
    1,805

    Default

    Airtex still has about 10 or so of the E2145S sending units in stock. They recommend ordering it through Napa. I ordered one on Wednesday and picked it up today.
    -John-

    79 Mercury Capri RS: 5.0L 5 speed swap
    83 Mustang GT: 5.0L 5 Speed
    83 Mustang GT T-Top: 5.0L 5 Speed
    84 Mustang L: 2.3L 4 Speed
    85 LTD Wagon: 358W 5 speed swap
    87 Mustang LX: 5.0L 5 speed swap

  8. #33

    Default



    Well I wasn't able to buy the sending unit, but I did get the spectra f2c fuel tank.

  9. #34

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nelzfoxes View Post
    Well I wasn't able to buy the sending unit, but I did get the spectra f2c fuel tank.
    Yep, those are still plentiful. Kind of pointless without the sending unit though.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI T-5 (Mustang LWB)
    '17 Ford Transit Connect Titanium LWB
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  10. #35

  11. #36

  12. #37
    FEP Power Member Ford'sCapri's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Elyria, Ohio
    Posts
    1,805

    Default

    The E2145S will work, you just have to swap the fuel level rheostat over from your old sending unit. If you don't, the fuel gauge won't read correctly.
    -John-

    79 Mercury Capri RS: 5.0L 5 speed swap
    83 Mustang GT: 5.0L 5 Speed
    83 Mustang GT T-Top: 5.0L 5 Speed
    84 Mustang L: 2.3L 4 Speed
    85 LTD Wagon: 358W 5 speed swap
    87 Mustang LX: 5.0L 5 speed swap

  13. #38

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ford'sCapri View Post
    The E2145S will work, you just have to swap the fuel level rheostat over from your old sending unit. If you don't, the fuel gauge won't read correctly.
    Ok. Thanks! I'll put it on the list! Haha! The never ending list.

  14. #39
    FEP Power Member xctasy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Dunedin 9011, New Zealand, South Pacific
    Posts
    2,440

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nelzfoxes View Post
    Ok. Thanks! I'll put it on the list! Haha! The never ending list.
    See http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ng-unit-Repair

    Quote Originally Posted by Whiplash93 View Post
    Well I got sick and tired of not having a working fuel gauge in my Fairmont. I had read the tech article on the front page about using a Ford Tempo unit to repair a Mustang setup. The Mustang and Fairmont sending unit look completely different but figured it might be worth a try and see if it would work. In my haste to get it together I neglected to get and pictures of my swap. The Fairmont and Tempo units are bent in opposite directions so felt it was better to rework then trying to bend the new one to match. I used the stock pickup assembly and cut the wire to the sender, leaving it long. I then measured the pickup tube from the bend to the very end where the screen it. Then I marked and cut it off right next to the sender. I then measured the new (Tempo) unit from the end (screen) to the sending unit. They are almost the same length so I cut the new (Tempo) unit leaving about 1/2" long from the sending. I then took a piece of steel tubing and fit it over the old pickup tube and tacked it into place with my welder (low heat). Then I fit the new sending unit tube to the small adapter pipe and made sure it was oriented properly and taked it into place. Then with a wet towl at hand I slowly welded the to tubes fully keeping it as cool as possible. I then soldered the wires back together and heat shrinked them. Reinstalled it into the fuel tank and she works like a charm. It may be a little easier to remove the plate that holds the sending unit on but was worried about damaging it. Well not the best description but it worked great for me.


    and http://www.foureyedpride.com/joom/in...-art&Itemid=42


    With some help, you can make up a system that works from stock parts. The differnces in level calibration and set up is covred by understanding which parts you can rework.

  15. #40

    Default

    Not sure if this helps you but I was in the process of doing the F2C tank in my box top (just sold the car with the tank setup). This is the sending unit I bought for it and swapped a 255lph pump with a mustang filter screen onto it, a little trimming of the pipe to pump and new clamps but it all fit together nicely. Not sure what ohms the fuel level sender is but I was going to buy an aftermarket gauge for it after I tested to get the correct one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectra-Prem...item41bb59d6d2
    1979 Fairmont wagon 414ci (stock block), 88mm T6, TH400, 9" rear 9.17 at 147.96.
    1980 Boxtop 306 w/70mm, 10.05 at 142.66 (traction limited) Dart blocked 331ci, S480
    1981 Fairmont 4-door project. 441rwhp on 12.5psi. (SOLD)

  16. #41

    Default

    I bought the matching 4-pin connector to wire it up from Napa, FPC100 is the part number.
    1979 Fairmont wagon 414ci (stock block), 88mm T6, TH400, 9" rear 9.17 at 147.96.
    1980 Boxtop 306 w/70mm, 10.05 at 142.66 (traction limited) Dart blocked 331ci, S480
    1981 Fairmont 4-door project. 441rwhp on 12.5psi. (SOLD)

  17. #42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Whiplash93 View Post
    Not sure if this helps you but I was in the process of doing the F2C tank in my box top (just sold the car with the tank setup). This is the sending unit I bought for it and swapped a 255lph pump with a mustang filter screen onto it, a little trimming of the pipe to pump and new clamps but it all fit together nicely. Not sure what ohms the fuel level sender is but I was going to buy an aftermarket gauge for it after I tested to get the correct one. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectra-Prem...item41bb59d6d2
    Did you get it running with this setup? I mistakenly bought the SP2127H pump, which is almost identical as yours, but is still for a sedan. When I finally got my F2C tank, I noticed that the tank is 10 inches deep from the top, but the pickup and sender only go down 7. That's going to leave darn near 1/4 tank that you can't use. It looks like if you lengthened the return pipe it could work; I just didn't want to get into that kind of modification on a high-pressure assembly. Let me know if you have this same issue. Thanks!

  18. #43
    FEP Senior Member Greywolf's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Richmond, ME
    Posts
    893

    Default

    Many replacement pumps come with a length of pressure hose and a couple clamps to attach the new pump in place of the original.
    In other words, adding 3" between the top of the pump and the bottom of the sender is pretty much considered a routine job; any leaks in the plumbing will stay inside the tank (so they will drive you nuts trying to find where you're losing pressure, as opposed to being hazardous).

    Since many Ford fuel pump/sender assemblies use the same lock ring and gasket, in a pinch one could use just the top plate of the assembly and build a whole new sending unit onto it.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •