Should I get a NEW Crossmember??

[1200]

Got everything out from the bottom of the car; drivetrain, exhaust, brake cables, etc. I was just wondering if I should replace the CROSSMEMEBER on my 86 GT Vert. I have the stock T5 in it right now but plan to put in my Tremec 3550 down the road when I get to my spare engine build???

Current crossmember is the OEM piece with the factory bushings. I'll add that the car has not seen the street for 18+ years as it has been in mothballs....

I need to pull the trigger on this one soon so I can keep my momentum....

Thanks

[danco86]

What are your concerns with you current crossmember?
I'm assuming it is the factory double hump, being an 86.
Just replace the bushings and tranny mount if you still have the factory rubber originals.
As far as compatibility with a future tremec, I don't know.

[1200]

What are your concerns with you current crossmember?
I'm assuming it is the factory double hump, being an 86.
Just replace the bushings and tranny mount if you still have the factory rubber originals.
As far as compatibility with a future tremec, I don't know.

Yes, the future Tremec is of my concerns. I'd rather not have to tackle the swap with all the other stuff in the way if it needs to be replaced for that mod.

The factory piece is in there but it does seem to have a slight bend on the passenger side where the bolt goes thru but I don't think that would stop the race...

Thanks for you r reply.

[danco86]

I'm pretty sure the if you upgrade to the 3550, you will have to do something with the crossmember for sure. Have you looked to see if anyone offers one specific for it?
I've heard of using the cross member from an 86+ automatic 5.0 because the mount sits back further, but I can't confirm it since I haven't done it first hand.

[1200]

Thanks Danco86, that's pretty much what I'm hoping to get help with on here....

[cb84capri]

auto cross member is the same, just tack welded back further on the tubes. auto cross member orientation is what you want with a 3550. throw some polyurethane bushings in it to while you're at it. i made a small spacer to bring the tailhousing up a bit as well with my 3550, but washers would probably work fine. i think the prothane mount is taller than stock too but i have not measured.

cale

[1200]

auto cross member is the same, just tack welded back further on the tubes. auto cross member orientation is what you want with a 3550. throw some polyurethane bushings in it to while you're at it. i made a small spacer to bring the tailhousing up a bit as well with my 3550, but washers would probably work fine. i think the prothane mount is taller than stock too but i have not measured.

cale

Cale thanks for the advice. I assume the tale of you r 3550 was hanging a bit too low? I just bought a new cross member that is not welded at all. I got it for 39.99 free shipping and stated to come with prothane bushings installed. I haven't received it yet, but it described as being the adjustable fix for whatever trans u run. The funny thing is, I'm not quite ready to install my 3550. I had plans to do it all together when I get my new motor assembled with all the new parts.

I will probably just go ahead and tackweld it to fit the T5 in a way that I can just cut the welds and reuse it when I throw in the 3550. My current crossmemeber has a slight bend at one side of the thru-bolt holes, nothing major, but I just don't feel comfortable using it especially if I have the new one on the shelf.

What did you make your spaces out of? I may even consider the prothane trans mount when I go full install...

Thanks Cale.

Dwayne

[martin0660]

Not a "cheap" solution, but will work with T5 and adjust for your Tremec in the future ....

http://buystifflers.com/1982-1993Mus...smember-2.aspx

I like mine ...

[1200]

Not a "cheap" solution, but will work with T5 and adjust for your Tremec in the future ....

http://buystifflers.com/1982-1993Mus...smember-2.aspx

I like mine ...

That X-member looks about as beefy as they come. Thanks for the reply. There is a chance that I will step up to something nice like yours, but I will wait til I get ready to throw my new engine in. I ran across a cheap stamped piece for $39 that I will tac weld into place to get me going for now. It came with a small set of poly bushings too. I usually go for the biggest and the best, but I'm trying to talk myself down from doing this as I have spent a ton of $$$ in the past on project as OVERKILL!

[JACook]

I do hope y'all are using something stiffer than the stock engine mount bushings. The transmission
mount should never be stiffer than what the engine uses. I personally don't see the point in going
any stiffer than new factory stuff on the transmission mount, else you run the risk of the transmission
and bellhousing becoming a stressed member.

[85GT-79FJ40]

I've bought a couple of the ford racing $65 cross members. Haven't installed the last one yet... But they come with the ends unwelded so you can slide it back and forth to match different transmissions. I've never run anything but stock mounts in my cars but I haven't ever had much more than stock power levels either.

[1200]

I've bought a couple of the ford racing $65 cross members. Haven't installed the last one yet... But they come with the ends unwelded so you can slide it back and forth to match different transmissions. I've never run anything but stock mounts in my cars but I haven't ever had much more than stock power levels either.

I was looking at the $65 piece and wondering what the differences were between this $39 piece that I bought from Laurel Mountain. I think maybe better bushing because they looked to be just stamped steel pieces????

[1200]

I do hope y'all are using something stiffer than the stock engine mount bushings. The transmission
mount should never be stiffer than what the engine uses. I personally don't see the point in going
any stiffer than new factory stuff on the transmission mount, else you run the risk of the transmission
and bellhousing becoming a stressed member.

That's why I ask these questions. I would have never consider the stress factors between the engine mounts and the crossmember.... You question may better be pointed towards @martin0660. His unit is by far the beefiest I've seen, but his whole setup looks up to the task.

I can't see a real nee for the heft back there, but I bo see that my oem has a slight bend in it from who knows where or how...