Front LCA question

[Wilson]

OK so I'm reworking the front end on my 86 and everything is off the car except for the lower control arms, which are just hanging there. The nuts are off, the rear bolt is out, and the front bolt is loose, but it won't slide out because the head hits the steering rack in the rubber boot area. Can I just loosen the steering rack bolts/nuts and move it enough, without causing any problems? While we're on the subject, any opinions on poly bushings vs. stock replacements? Thanks in advance....Matt

[Travis T]

You can take the rack bolts out without causing any issues.

[84GT350CONV]

Polyurethane bushings need to be lubricated before installing on the car or you will get squeaks. They last longer. The drawback is they will give a stiffer than factory ride if that is a concern. My guess is probably not.

[mustangxtreme]

Can I just loosen the steering rack bolts/nuts and move it enough, without causing any problems?

Yes, you can loosen the bolts and move the rack forward.

While we're on the subject, any opinions on poly bushings vs. stock replacements?

I have poly bushings on my 83L. It definitely tightens up the feel of the car and makes it feel more go cartish. The down side is more road noise and vibration. You definitely feel the sharp bumps. If it will be too harsh for you depends upon you. I don't mind the stiffer ride but I don't think the wife appreciates it.

[qtrracer]

Unless you plan on doing a lot of corner carving, there is no need for the poly bushings. All they do is keep the alignment where you put it when driving at the limit. Delren or metal bushings are even better but NVH goes up. Otherwise, the rubber does a better job isolating NVH.

By the way, putting in the polys is not for the faint of heart. The best way is to burn out the rubber leaving the sleeves in place so the proper geometry is not changed. Then push in the polys without sleeves. Don't attempt to use a press for removal or installation of the bushings. The stamped arms will likely deform. Ford designed the a-arms as a non-serviceable item meant to be replaced when either the bushings or ball joints failed.

[86GTdriver]

Unless you plan on doing a lot of corner carving, there is no need for the poly bushings. All they do is keep the alignment where you put it when driving at the limit. Delren or metal bushings are even better but NVH goes up. Otherwise, the rubber does a better job isolating NVH.

By the way, putting in the polys is not for the faint of heart. The best way is to burn out the rubber leaving the sleeves in place so the proper geometry is not changed. Then push in the polys without sleeves. Don't attempt to use a press for removal or installation of the bushings. The stamped arms will likely deform. Ford designed the a-arms as a non-serviceable item meant to be replaced when either the bushings or ball joints failed.

So how the heck do you get the old shells/sleeves out of any Fox/SN95 front LCA?

[boomartin09]

You can order new poly bushings without the metal shell. Use a propane torch to heat the exterior part of the LCA shells evenly all the way around until they start to smoke and rubber is melting and pushing out the take a small hammer and tap them out. The set I just did on my 86 wasn't near as bad as it has been made out to be, just be patient. If you lubricate everything up really well and trim to bushings then it will help reduce the squeaks but they will still be there. Other than that with poly rack bushings, LCA bushings and sway bar mounting hardware it really has made a difference in my cars handling. worth the effort IMO.

Dustin

[86GTdriver]

You can order new poly bushings without the metal shell. Use a propane torch to heat the exterior part of the LCA shells evenly all the way around until they start to smoke and rubber is melting and pushing out the take a small hammer and tap them out. The set I just did on my 86 wasn't near as bad as it has been made out to be, just be patient. If you lubricate everything up really well and trim to bushings then it will help reduce the squeaks but they will still be there. Other than that with poly rack bushings, LCA bushings and sway bar mounting hardware it really has made a difference in my cars handling. worth the effort IMO.

Dustin

The Mach/Cobra LCAs I got actually only have 1 of the 2 shells installed on each one, which is why I ordered new shells and sleeves from MM. Once the rubber bushing is out, how do you get the shell out?

[boomartin09]

Other than attempting to cut it out (not recommended), I don't see what other option you have but to use a press. Many have done this with success.

[qtrracer]

The Mach/Cobra LCAs I got actually only have 1 of the 2 shells installed on each one, which is why I ordered new shells and sleeves from MM. Once the rubber bushing is out, how do you get the shell out?

It's possible the a-arms you have originally came with "hydro" bushings which are not bonded to the sleeve. What I'm not sure of is what the hydro shell looks like. I do know the replacement bushings depend on which version bushing you started with. However, if all sleeves are removed then you probably just need to buy the poly with sleeves.

[ZephyrEFI]

... The best way is to burn out the rubber leaving the sleeves in place so the proper geometry is not changed. Then push in the polys without sleeves. Don't attempt to use a press for removal or installation of the bushings. The stamped arms will likely deform. Ford designed the a-arms as a non-serviceable item meant to be replaced when either the bushings or ball joints failed.

I have a question about this. I pretty much have little choice but to press the bushings out of my current control arms, and press them into some used replacements I have. The (rubber) bushings in my current control arms are replacements I had pressed in by a tire shop. Does anyone have experience with this having been done wrong? I've been trying to sort out a harsh ride on my car, and I'm thinking if the shop pressed the new bushings in all kitty-wampus, that may have caused some binding, leading to a harsher ride.

I am replacing my control arms because the ball joint bores are stretched out, and the ball joints I have, paid a lot of money for, and want to use, don't fit. The bushings in the replacement arms are worn out, and the ones in my current A-arms are practically brand new. Yesterday I was pressing a bushing in, using the all-thread method, and noticed I was getting some distortion. I pounded them back into shape as best I could. My plan is to get a steel rod that will fit snug inside the bushing sleeves, long enough to go through both of them, and use that to make sure the bushings at least are straight. Does that sound like a decent method?

Thanks for any input!

[mustangxtreme]

Zepher, I used a piece of angle cut to length to support the a-arm so it wouldn't collapse as I pressed in the new bushings.

Post 29 shows the angles I used and also a picture on how the bushings are to be installed on the control arms.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-L-build/page2

[ZephyrEFI]

Zepher, I used a piece of angle cut to length to support the a-arm so it wouldn't collapse as I pressed in the new bushings.

Post 29 shows the angles I used and also a picture on how the bushings are to be installed on the control arms.

http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-L-build/page2

Thanks! That post is really helpful! And I had intended to support the space in between going forward, now that I see how important that is.

[mustangxtreme]

Glad to help. Good luck,keep up the good work and you'll be driving in no time.

[Wilson]

Kinda late but thanks to all for the input and info. Came apart w/ no issues. installed some poly rack bushings from LMR (which fit perfectly BTW in case anyone is considering them) and am staying with rubber bushings. Also can't say enough good things about the MM spring installation helper tool. Was barely able to slip 'B' springs w/ poly insulators over the lip of tool but they did fit, and saved the hassle of a spring compressor. Sweet!