Well it lives again.
but its not happy. Started up easy but think the water pump is taking a $hit from being dry so long. sound logical? It defiantly makes noise. When I was pulling the tape off after painting it didnt want to turn but freed up. And the H pipe is leaking bad on the right side at the header. And the machining plug on the front bowl is leaking again. Starter still sounds like crap too. New starter and ring gear. works though. Oh Well Endeavor to Perceiver SP?
Issues. ALWAYS issues, been there myself. I have never used it but they do make some kind of lubricant for the cooling system. May be just colored water but hey, might be worth a shot?
Liberty once lost is lost forever.
John Adams
July 7, 1775
When I used to work at machine shops I would dump in a little water soluble oil. I think it stopped circulating for some reason. Pulled the thermostat and put it in boiling water it did open. So i guess will be pulling the pump off. Might as well do the timing chain too. Should have done it when the engine was out but trying to keep costs down. LOL
Ok it lives AGAIN!!!!!!! New timing chain. Bought a eldbrock but it had the 2 step cam gear and wouldnt work. Had one of the old guys at orielies look at the old one and figured out what brand it was. new water pump and it circulates good. Cant get my fan to run off the relay but hooked it up direct and let it run. 175 deg at 40# oil pressure at idle. Couldnt get the nice free H pipe to stop leaking so went with the one I bought from 2nd chance cobra and no problems. Has one bad spot where someone smashed it down for clearance. Need to sort out a couple little issues and move the coil again so I can put a original air cleaner on.
Sorted most of the issues out. created another LOL but except for the mufflers and the snorkel tubes this is how she will live.
Very cool. Congrats.
Dave
If common sense was common wouldn't it just be sense?
1983 Capri L T top 5.0 efi aod
1983 Capri RS Turbo
1981 Black Magic 400 c6
93 F-250 351 5sp 4x4
Could the starter issue be damaged or missing motor plate between block and trans?
Motor plate is there. It is sounding better as it all wears in. Just hope it dont wear out LOL
Can a Low Voltage,Bad Ground or Electrical Drain have an effect on the Starter to make Noise? Affecting the Bendix's Engagement and Disengagement?
dont know that one. Battery has 13 volts sitting. was on charger on first start with 14. Ground is direct to block.
took it out for awhile thursday and the P/S pump started leaking. LOL
Lucas power steering stop leak worked fine for me on my 89 10 years ago, hasent leaked sense.Originally Posted by cb650
Also if you need the flex tubes for the air cleaner I have a few sets.
Current rides:
89 LX 5.0, 5 -spd..the Lemon
86 RS Capri 5.0 Auto...
86 LX Colorado SSP 5.0 5-spd (Sadly Sold)
85.5 SVO, Finally Got Boost
83 RS Capri 5.0, 5-spd (another sadly sold)
I got some on it now. Thanks anyway Take another pic then Pump is back on. It was leaking bad at the shaft.
Got a short vid also. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1hXY9pMjOI
Short but sweet video. She's lookin good! Thanks for sharing.
what I always wanted. Done for now except what breaks
my 4 speed shifter wouldnt fit the t-5 so took out a old sun baked out of the 81 and plastidipped it. wish it was a little darker.
If the tranny works out want to replace the whole shifter assembly.
Last edited by cb650; 04-01-2017 at 06:29 PM.
Did you have to modify the trany hump where the shifter comes through?
If you blink at the end of the straight away you'll miss the twisties and what fun would that be!
1982 Capri RS 5.0L
Suspension Build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...tion-and-Build
1985 SVO 2A & leather. Stolen & Destroyed 2022
Motor Build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?t=63505
Dyno stats and exhaust install http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...Dyno-d-finally
My FMIC build http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-amp-D-project
Electronic boost controller and bypass valve
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-Bypass-Valve
Opperation SVO Tunes http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...51#post1148551
I beat it up a little. And if I change out the whole shifter I will have to lower the tranny. Dont want to cut it up.
Well its still going. Put a 650 DP on it. Here is before and after pics. Now on to more work with Lynns 80
Last edited by cb650; 09-23-2017 at 07:23 AM.
Looking good buddy!!!! Cleaned it up a bunch!!!!
Awesome find!
the theory behind the non-bent connectors is that if the car is properly leveled when you start and the rear point is welded in before the front is jacked into place it loads the metal in the chassis and makes the car stronger than it would have been if the bars were simply set into place and welded in.
If you have an old school chassis and frame guy put in your connectors a lot of times they would chain the car down to the frame table then generate force upward in the center of the car on both sides first then relax it then weld the connectors in back and jack them in.
A car is about 2x stiffer when this process is used before you get into doing things like cutting in connectors through the floor, etc, which all helps but comes at a price.
My $0.02 is the old HPM bars had to be jacked in and the process above is how it was done on my car. My car was mortally wounded with a 1 7/8" twist in the unibody "frame" when the work on the frame machine began and the process used plus welding up the cracks in the floor literally saved my car. Follow it with one that's not such a flexible flyer to begin with and you'll have something.
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