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  1. #1
    FEP Member redse's Avatar
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    Default Front swaybar brackets and bushings 84 LX

    I went out to change the oil in my 84 LX for the first time. I used to doing small block chevys, one drain plug and that's it. Well everybody has told on the 5.0's to make sure and drop the front plug also. Problem is the front sway bar was right across the bottom edge of the drain plug and can see where it rubbed at one time or is now??? So I unbolted the lower bracket's for the front swaybar and it allowed it to drop down enough to unbolt and drain. I don't understand way a swaybar would fit like that? This car was a original V-6 and they dropped a 5.0 in it, they put different swaybars in them for the V-6 versus the 5.0? If not is there a way to correct this so I'm able to drain oil without unbolting the swaybar? Also it looks like the stock swaybar and the bottom brackets the rubber is shot in them, is there something better then putting rubber back in them? Thanks wasn't ready to start the front suspension yet just got done doing the rear suspension, just figured for now since I had the front brackets unbolted if I good make it better for now!!!

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Did someone use aftermarket sway bar mounts??? I had a similar issue on my 86 Convertible. The aftermarket bushings were moving the sway bar up about 1.5" closer to the bottom of the frame rails. And as a consequence the sway bar was actually hitting the front drain plug.....

    Here is a picture of the ones that are in my car, they should be spaced down from the frame rail:
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  3. #3
    FEP Member redse's Avatar
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    They look like the factory ones to me and the rubber is shot also!!! I beginning to wonder if my problem is they dropped the 5.0 in and left the factory V-6 set-up in??? I don't know enough about it, other than since I sort of have it apart I need to correct this!!! Thanks

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member mustangxtreme's Avatar
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    If the PO left the v6 springs in, the front end would sit lower than it would with v8 springs. The lower it sits, that will rotate the sway bar closer to the pan. You should be able to get shorter sway bar links which will rotate the bar away from the pan.
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  5. #5
    FEP Member redse's Avatar
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    When I got it it was lowered and I bought brand new factory V-8 springs and put on it so it sets at normal height again!

  6. #6

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    Definitely mismatched parts. The stabilzer bar should not be touching the oil pan or drain bolt. There should be enough room to get that bolt out and in without having to move or remove anything else.

    Although JTurbo did mention the bushing /bracket should be spaced down from the frame rail, the picture that is posted does not show the factory spacer, and it was more than just a sliver of space as shown in the pic.
    Last edited by FoxChassis; 05-19-2014 at 08:00 AM.
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  7. #7
    FEP Member 8ballEinstein's Avatar
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    I'm pretty sure there was a difference in the V-6 and V-8 design. The sway bar shouldn't be so close to the drain plug.
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  8. #8
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    The aftermarket Energy Suspension sway bar bushing kit I used looks similar mounting to the one you have and I had the same questions when I upgraded (on my 82 GT) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...=1#post1573280

    The factory bushing had way more rubber ad distance between the bar and the chassis. I used some 3/4" flat bar and used it as a spacer to keep the bar in more factory location and then use the supplied hardware. I noticed on our 79 V6 that it looks similar except the spacer will only be 1/4" when I do it. Someone suggested to me to use aluminum but carbon steel was readily available.

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  9. #9
    FEP Member redse's Avatar
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    Does anyone think if I got the Eibach swaybar kit front and rear swaybars and hardware this would solve my problem in the front? I don't have a swaybar in the back and that would be nice to have also, but more concerned about the front right now!!! Thanks

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member danco86's Avatar
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    The Eibach kit will not come with any brackets. It'll only come with the bushings to accommodate the larger diameter sway bar. You need to find the correct factory 2 piece brackets. I don't know of any one who makes them, so the junkyard will likely be you beat bet. All the aftermarket brackets sit flush like in the pics. The other option would be to use a spacer with the aftermarkets like Darren did.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by danco86 View Post
    The Eibach kit will not come with any brackets. It'll only come with the bushings to accommodate the larger diameter sway bar. You need to find the correct factory 2 piece brackets. I don't know of any one who makes them, so the junkyard will likely be you beat bet. All the aftermarket brackets sit flush like in the pics. The other option would be to use a spacer with the aftermarkets like Darren did.
    Not sure if the 84 would have had a two piece bracket or not. I actually tried to modify my two piece brackets by welding a spacer to accommodate the difference in the rubber thickness. Unfortunately, I did not add enough and the bushing was still kind of loose on the chassis side. Instead of adding more material, I went with plan B (the spacer) which worked for me.

    To the OP: if your car was originally a V6 and now is a V8, would the sway bar not be different between cars? Shape, diameter and possibly end link connections?

    Maybe a JY or salvaged V8 bar would work but if you don't have a back bar...

  12. #12
    FEP Member redse's Avatar
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    Think mine are the two piece the rubber is shot!. Would anyone here be able to set me up with the correct brackets and or spacers. I just still kind of worried because it's the original bar. Does anyone know if their was a difference between the V-6 and V-8 bars???

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by 82GTforME View Post
    Not sure if the 84 would have had a two piece bracket or not.
    The 84 has the 2 piece brackets. I am also looking for replacements and may go with the spacer route.
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  14. #14
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    The V6 and V8 bars are only different in diameter, not setup. What you need to do is look at the sway bar to see if the ends are parallel to the ground. You may find that you have to shorten your end links. I did when I lowered my car.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

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  15. #15
    FEP Member redse's Avatar
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    What do you mean bye shortening my end links??? Also there is no difference in the bend of the bars between the V-6 and V-8 it's only the diameter? So I would be better off just replacing the rubber in mine or putting urethane bushing in the stock brackets??? Thanks

  16. #16
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    No difference in the bends from my experience. If your car is sitting level, the ends of the sway bar should be also. I'll see if I can find a picture to show you.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

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