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  1. #1
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    Default 1982 AM/FM Factory Cassette- What can I do with this?

    So the Tangerine coupe was a factory no-radio car. It has a dealer installed AM radio in it with a single center dash speaker.

    We picked up this AM/FM cassette from the junkyard oddly from an 82 that originally had no-radio (but also looks to have had premium speakers with the head unit dealer installed) and we want to install it.

    There are no factory speaker wires run in our car at least to the rear and I assume the tweeters. What options are there for this unit? My son would be happy with FM and if the cassette works; bonus!

    I do not know what harnesses are hooked up to the current radio. What can I do and how would one hook this up to have it operational? I have some front and rear period speakers I can use.





    I had never heard of the Ford Aerospace Division.

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    I think this is my favorite car on the site right now.
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    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) GT T-Top:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...um-Blue-Bomber!

  2. #2
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    I am not familar with that radio. Its likely dealer installed. From the number of wires, it seem to be only 2 speaker output. Should be a an easy hook up. Non radio cars did not have rear speaker harness until about. 86. You can run 4 speaker wires under the door sill plates from the kick panel to the trunk or hatch. I have the radio upgrade manual around some place but its probably easier the check the 82 wiring diagrams for radio wiring color codes. You should have a power plug and front speaker harness present, I believe. The 82 EVTM spells it all out.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
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  3. #3
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    Pretty similar to the factory cassette player in my 84, except the font is different, it should have the blue dash lights and the FF/RWD button is different. Since you have the clipped end from the speaker harness, you could just tie onto that and run new wire to the two small dash speakers and the two speakers under the package shelf that radio would have used.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    Pretty similar to the factory cassette player in my 84, except the font is different, it should have the blue dash lights and the FF/RWD button is different. Since you have the clipped end from the speaker harness, you could just tie onto that and run new wire to the two small dash speakers and the two speakers under the package shelf that radio would have used.
    Thanks Travis. I wasn't sure if it had an amp I should have pulled at the time or whether Ford makes it hard to connect to their stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by KevinK View Post
    I am not familar with that radio. Its likely dealer installed. From the number of wires, it seem to be only 2 speaker output. Should be a an easy hook up. Non radio cars did not have rear speaker harness until about. 86. You can run 4 speaker wires under the door sill plates from the kick panel to the trunk or hatch. I have the radio upgrade manual around some place but its probably easier the check the 82 wiring diagrams for radio wiring color codes. You should have a power plug and front speaker harness present, I believe. The 82 EVTM spells it all out.
    I actually have that book Thanks for the reminder!

    Don't think it is for this mono set up. I don't know anything about a fade control.

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    I think this may be the correct method. I need to get a closer look at the wire colors when I get a closer look at the back again and see if they are the same as this schematic.

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    Last edited by 82GTforME; 04-10-2014 at 06:24 PM.

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    It can be put in without an amp. That is how my 84 was, and I plugged an amp in it later. That was a simple matter of unplugging the speaker wire and plugging the amp in between it.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  6. #6
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    I got the old AM radio out and the power supply is slightly different. The one on the right is the one I need. See any issues clipping, switching and splicing connectors?



    I forgot to get the harness ends of the front speakers too. I am just going to cut these off and put my own pins or similar on the wires I think.


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    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    The easiest wiring option is to use Scotchloc splice connectors. No cutting of any wires is needed.
    When properly installed they work fine. Everything can be reversed or changed easily with minimum wire damage.

    If cutting the radio power wires, maybe cut them up between the radio and black suppressor.
    Leave enough wire to swap back later.
    Or make up an adapter pigtail using bullet type and spade connectors.
    Or go back and get more harness plugs.
    Or look for ready made adapter pigtails online.
    Or use no plugs and hard wire and solder everything. I have used regular twist on wire connectors and tape.

    I like to extend radio connection wires a foot or so, long enough to access in the pass foot well.
    ID marking them +/-, L/R, F/R, 12v/Gd makes things simpler. Clear speaker wire is easiest to id +/-.
    Small zip ties, ele tape, black loom, make it pretty and more durable.
    When done, tuck the bundle under the dash.

  8. #8
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    Thanks, that gives me a lot of options. I actually found the front speaker plugs so I am good there now!

    How can a person bench check this radio before install?

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Done it many times. Love to change configurations every few years.

    Any 12v power source can be temp used to see if it lights up.
    Temp connect any kind loose speakers to it to hear if it makes noise.

    In car is really the easiest place to test it before final install in dash.
    A power plug into the cigar lighter is good for temp power.
    Place radio in pass footwell or on seat, then connect loose speakers or extend existing wires.
    Antenna can be connected easily. The wire is routed under the glove box area.

    Or take it to a car audio shop for a test. They used to be able to do that.

    No fun installing knob radios for sure. Or removing one.
    Is the main reason i trimmed the dash and went DIN using Ford factory radios.
    No looking back. The later 80's- 90's era Ford electronic radios work and look fine. Cheap at the junkyard.
    Ran new heavy duty 18g clear home speaker wire to all speakers. Factory harness was left in.
    Have a FM transmitter for wireless mp3 player connection. Or for my portable TV audio.

    Sort of miss those mechanical push buttons having gone electronic. Buttons would stick or be hard to push.
    They all totally quit for various reasons. Are retired in a box. Can still push the buttons if i want to.
    Last edited by gr79; 11-30-2018 at 03:58 PM.

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    Forgot the 79 power wires were different. If you want to be really neat with it, you can open up the radio and just swap the wires between the two, but you can always just clip the end and switch it.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  11. #11
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    Ok wires are ran. Now according to the diagram all of the "black and white" return together. Do they all splice together with the "black and white in the harness and then the "colors" attach individually into the harness? Just wondering, that's what it seems to infer.

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  12. #12
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Diagrams are not specifically marked + or - for terminals on speakers.
    The black wire connections to multiple speakers indicates - or ground.
    Having speakers in phase is key for clear sound.
    We assume wiring the speakers, per diagram, does this.

    Usually (+) is a paint dot or marking on one speaker terminal.
    Each speaker has a separate (+) colored wire feed from radio. LF, LR, RF, RR, for control of F/R fade and L/R balance.
    The diagram (non-Premium Sound) shows all speakers are grounded (- or black) together.
    If wired correctly, the fade and balance controls on the radio will work correctly.
    Last edited by gr79; 11-30-2018 at 04:01 PM.

  13. #13
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    I'll have to double check the speaker terminals. I ASSumed the black/white was (-). I used all of the factory speaker harnesses so it was a matter of matching them to this harness which should imply correct phase to the harness.

    It shows all of the "BK/W H" tying back together before they hit the harness and returning to the "solid state" unit. My ASSumption has me thinking I can splice them together and join them to the single BK/W going into the harness plug.

    Thanks for the help.

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    In the 79 EVTM, the radio speaker bk/h is ground. All feed back to the ss unit or radio.
    What is confusing is that solid black is also used for ground elsewhere.
    Like in the pic of the premium sound speaker wires. Both are black!
    May have to play it by ear. Assume solid black is (+), bk/h is (-).
    When f and r are all on, bass and clarity will sound better one way or the other.

    Sometimes terminals on aftermarket speakers are different size for + and -.
    The factory ones pretty much are designed to fit the harness plug.

    I also used larger clear speaker wire. Has one silver and one gold stranded wire. Easy to match when connecting.
    All speakers are replacements. Left the factor harness unused.
    Replacement wire has some form of coding for + and -. Wire color, jacket color, coding, raised rib molded in jacket.

    The optional Premium Sound amps are a little different as to specific rear ground wires and colors.
    Last edited by gr79; 05-06-2014 at 12:18 PM.

  15. #15

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    The biggest difference between the standard radio, and the premium sound radio and amp, is the
    standard radio has single-ended amplifier outputs, while the premium sound uses differential amps.
    What this means in practical terms is, with the standard radio, one leg of all the output channels is
    on a common wire. With the premium sound setup, each channel has two dedicated output wires
    for each, and they must never be tied together.

    In either case, it makes no difference what wire ends up connected to the + or - terminals on the
    speakers, as long as you do them all the same polarity, and as long as your speakers don't have
    one of the terminals tied to the speaker frame. (Not very likely at all with any modern speaker)
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
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    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  16. #16
    FEP Member eight666lx's Avatar
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    ^^^ as mr.Cook so adequately put. the polarity is what matters, which is almost impossible to screw up.

    the premium sound amp(or any factory sound equipment) has never amazed me, in any fox i've ever been in. and with head units being so cheap i threw away the idea of a stock appearance long ago. you can always mod the heck out of your current unit. years back on a fiberglass forums type of site. there was a guy that gutted the headunit case and kept the old face plate. it would flip up and there was the real face with buttons, a knob, and a neat little remote. granted this guy was a mechanical wizard, and this is a very extreme example. the point being, you can do all kinds of stuff.

    i would run all new wires if i was installing anything new, you'll already have the connectors out, and the dash pad off, etc.

  17. #17
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    Default Rocking

    Managed to get the unit powered up, the lights work Temporary hook ups to power it up and at least the radio and all of the speakers are working!

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    Wouldn't you know though after testing it sitting on the hump with everything hooked up, I go to install everything permanantly and when I go to put the antenna in the back it didn't go in right and it may be permanantly broken.

    Can this be repaired easily or does it need to be fully replaced?? The wires are still intact inside the pin.

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  18. #18
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Lot of work to replace the whole antenna.
    Of course the signal may or may not be as good as from a new replacement antenna.
    Worth a try to straighten out the pin.
    past owned daily driven many memorable times with all
    1967 Mustang 'verti Sports Sprint 289 Holley 4vC4 2.79 lime gold blk vinyl (6/70-4/73) 100k
    1970 VW 113 Beetle modded 1650 5200 2v 4sp Hurst 4.13 grn blk leathette (1973-1977) 200k
    1975 VW 1303 S Beetle LaGrande 1600 EFI 4sp Hurst 3.88 lime grn tan cloth (1977-1980) 90k
    1985 LTD LX 5.0 CFI HO AOD 3.27 gray gray (1987-1990) 75k
    1986 Ranger XL 2wd 7' bed 114 wb 2.3 EFI 5 sp 3.45 gray burgundy cloth (1990-1994) 180k
    current owned now weekly driven totally enjoyed
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  19. #19
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    It pin part actually hinged and pulled out of the end of the larger part of the plug. I'm worried about if I stick it in the radio the pin is staying in forever
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    I think this is my favorite car on the site right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI
    This is the best thread on the internet.
    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) GT T-Top:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...um-Blue-Bomber!

  20. #20
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Forgot about mine for years trying to figure out how to fix it.
    Finally it came apart totally from many radio change outs.

    First, bought a 4' antenna extension cable from a chain auto parts store.
    Next, picked up one Radio Shack 274-0709 solderless Motorola-Type plug.
    Held my breath and cut the old plug off, stripped the antenna coax with RG59 stripper tool, assembled, per instructions.
    Plugged the new end into new extension.
    Works fine.

    2018 Update:
    My radio antenna connection was bent like that, finally came apart. No repair, other than new wire.
    Harvested a orange antenna wire from an Ford Escape. Radio to kick panel, plenty of length.
    Mustang has connection behind ps kickpanel to antenna. No need to replace.
    'New' orange color Escape antenna wire plugs into radio and then to antenna connection.
    No splicing.
    Mustang antenna wire may have adapter for male to male. Remove it for normal male-female plug.
    Last edited by gr79; 11-30-2018 at 04:10 PM.

  21. #21
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    Here is a suggestion that I found worked amazingly well back in the 1970's and 1980's with radio's such as this that have a "Mechanical" tuner.

    Below is a picture of an add on FM tuner that you could plug into the antennae wire to make an AM radio have FM. I show this "box" as an illustration of the "Antennae Amplifier's" that were sold back then by Radio Shack and others. They were smaller in size of the box but installed the same way. Remove the antennae plug from the radio plug it into the unit and plug the unit's antennae lead into your radio. Hook up to a power source and your were good to go.

    These "Antennae Boosters" were AMAZING! Set the tuner to anywhere on the dial with no station. Hit the switch on the "Antennae Amplifier" and there would now be a station that you could listen to!

    Radio Shack (If they are still in business) may still sell these amplifiers. Here's one from Crutchfield.

    http://www.crutchfield.com/p_12044UA...Amplifier.html

    WELL worth $20.00 if you are like me still using an antique radio, drive your car regularly and want old school tunes!
    Last edited by vintageracer; 08-19-2015 at 10:11 AM.
    Mike
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