ALL Power windows not working

[DSTdrummer]

STORM ROLLING IN! My windows wouldn't work a few days ago, then mysteriously started again. Stopped again today and will not work. Power locks won't work also none of the individual switches. Checked all fuses, have 12V at switch.
Will a bad switch itself stop all windows?

[DSTdrummer]

Plug test: have continuity between each, "pair" of wires on each of the respective switch plugs, and between the black wire and ground to body.

[DSTdrummer]

Switch test: continuity along the terminals and in each switch with it "up" and "down".

[DSTdrummer]

UPDATE:
I just tested the switch with it in the car. With my meter grounded to the door or the ground wire in the plug, and everything plugged in, I do not get 12V on any button, either side, up or down. But, I DO get 12V when operating the driver window button ONLY with it unplugged from the motor, but nothing on any other button with it unplugged. I am in search of a switch. Josh at Encore Mustang Parts replied to my post on Facebook, $90 shipped.

[DSTdrummer]

I guess I'll be the only one posting. Lol. Used jumper and got them up. Switch then?

[83GTRAG]

Sometimes I know how you feel, yes connection on switch. They pop out and can be cleaned and put back in, try that too. The passenger window gets its power from the driver, so driver is in control and needs to have power first, then it powers the passenger window.

[DSTdrummer]

Thanks for the reply.
I was looking at the switch and wanted to take it apart but wasn't sure how to do it. When I used the jumper wire, I did it through the switch. Grounded it, stuck positive in the correct side of the button, and pushed the switch while applying power. That saved me from having to take off the other panels. Now here's a question. Passenger side door lock actuator has been stuck since I bought the car but driver side worked. Is it a coincidence that it stopped at the same time? It works intermittently, but I wouldn't think the window switch would matter with locks.

[JACook]

Depends. That an '86 convertible you're working on? The power feed to the power window system on the
convertibles is very different from the system on the notch/hatch. The power feed for the convertible power
windows comes from a fusible link at the starter relay, not from the fuse panel. The fuse panel circuit that
would power the windows on a notch/hatch powers only a relay under the left end of the dash, that prevents
operating the windows without the key. The rest of the convertible power window system is a direct lift from
the Fairmont/Zephyr twins.

The power locks on an '86 are fed from fuse 10 in the panel, regardless of body type.

[FM2NOTCH]

does your solenoid look anything like this? the black wire/white stripe is hooked to a relay/fuse/circuit btreaker that works door locks, etc.

[DSTdrummer]

How in the world did I miss these replies? At any rate, it is a convertible. I split the switch and cleaned it all out and it works. It was glued together so I had to super glue it. Everything worked after that. It glitches on me today, of course another storm is coming in a bit. But I flipped the window lock button and they started working again. I had a guy with one in a parts car I was going to pick up for $40 shipped, but he tested it and it's bad also. I posted a WTB tread.
Here's what it looked like inside:




Donnie

'86 GT Convertible
Jalapeño Red w/Oxford White Leather

[DSTdrummer]

Also, I heard that relay click under the dash when putting the circuit breaker in. I was going to ask about that but I figured out the switch was the problem before digging too far in to that.


Donnie

'86 GT Convertible
Jalapeño Red w/Oxford White Leather