83 Project Log. 4 barrelled 3.8L V6

[plstktnkr2]

Now this is the kind of "different" I want for my 85 V6!
One thing I've been thinking about as I read along, fuel delivery. Is there a spot for a mechanical fuel pump on the V6? Or do you have to use the in tank fuel pump still? My friends 83 fox LTD is factory carb'd, can't remember if it's a 2 or 4bbl.

If it is like the V6 Mustang, the 1983 has a mechanical F/P and mounts lower right side of engine. 1984 and later had the opening closed off. My motor had the 1985 timing cover so I had a electric FI pump and a regulator with a return line back to the tank.

[plstktnkr2]

Really cool to see what it takes to get this V6 to run. I wonder how much power it'll make when all is said and done.

I have pretty much the exact same MAC exhaust on my Capri, and I gotta say that I hate it! While it sounded good (very loud and throaty), all of the ball and socket joints, along with those slip on tailpipes just loosen up all of the time. With cars like ours that tend to rumble and rattle all over the place, I think I'm going to go with something more solid next time. I'd advise you to use plenty of lock-tite on all of those nuts and studs.

I have ball and socket joints on my BBK headers going to my High flow cats and have had NO loosening since being installed and I have LX duel tails going into PYPES Violators and have had no issues. I will be stepping to either Flows or another Pypes product that upon talking to them, they reccomended for my combo.
Rick

[bridgener]

I have ball and socket joints on my BBK headers going to my High flow cats and have had NO loosening since being installed and I have LX duel tails going into PYPES Violators and have had no issues. I will be stepping to either Flows or another Pypes product that upon talking to them, they reccomended for my combo.
Rick

Yeah, the joints from my BBK shorties and my MAC H-pipe haven't loosened. I was talking about the cat back, specifically the multi piece tail pipes. Seems like no matter how much I tighten them, by the end of the summer they'll have shifted pretty far out of place. Between the slip fit hangers that are held in by set screws, the slip fit tail pipes with band clamps, and the ball and sockets that join at the top of the axle, there's just so many fasteners that can loosen. It's really great for initial adjustability, but the damn things just don't stay where I want them. I'm probably going to get some 5.0 Resto LX style tails when cash allows it.

[plstktnkr2]

Yeah, the joints from my BBK shorties and my MAC H-pipe haven't loosened. I was talking about the cat back, specifically the multi piece tail pipes. Seems like no matter how much I tighten them, by the end of the summer they'll have shifted pretty far out of place. Between the slip fit hangers that are held in by set screws, the slip fit tail pipes with band clamps, and the ball and sockets that join at the top of the axle, there's just so many fasteners that can loosen. It's really great for initial adjustability, but the damn things just don't stay where I want them. I'm probably going to get some 5.0 Resto LX style tails when cash allows it.

You can get LX tails at auto zone or advance auto, those will work fine

[1983 GL V6 MUSTANG]

Well, you could also tac-weld the exhaust in an easy place to grind off, or punch off with a chisel later. I was a little concerned about this as well, so i ended up tightening the crap out of everything. Will see how it goes.

However, my new update:
-So, I bolted the pedals under the dash, NOTE: the back 4 bolts hold the brake booster to the firewall, and you need to prop it up to but the nuts back on under the dash.
-Put the steering column back on and reconnected the brake light wiring. And put back whatever other wiring was taken off of its bracket.
Relocated the speedo cable to the correct hole, grommet is shot, can get a new one on LMR. looks like my speedo cable is too short, as well as having a broken clip which was making my speedo jump before the tare down. Will get a new cable as well as the correct worm gear for the tranny.
-Then I went for the clutch cable. Changed firewall grommet to billet adjuster and inserted cable with help to go around quadrant. Keeping it taut, went under car and had help feed me cable and inserted it into the bell and the clutch fork.
-This is the point I needed to tighten it: so I do the clutch arm side of the cables adjustment all the way till it bottoms out: CABLE TOO LONG.
-But there is the firewall adjustment: So I tighten that, and almost all the way out it gets taut. Well, maybe the 3.8L and 5L cables are different length by an inch…
-Anyway, get my helper to press on the new clutch pedal for the first time while I peer into clutch arm hole to confirm smooth operation.
-Helper depresses clutch all the way and… BANG…the clutch fork shears the clutch release bearing as if it where made of butter…. :'(

Remember how I said how the clutch disk was wrong? (Bought off of Rock Auto, a taiwan part) Well, that was a clutch kit that came with the disk, pressure plate release bearing, and pilot bearing….. I only noticed the issue with the disk and didn't think of the other parts (THAT FIT) would be a problem. Didn't dawn on me……

SO where my list of TO DOs starts at now:
-Remove exhaust
-Remove driveshaft and tranny
-Remove bell and all that crap Rock auto sold me.
-replace with Ford racing.
-Put back together.

:/ Cars. .. i love em… but I hate em.

[1983 GL V6 MUSTANG]

Alright. No video worth posting where I don't look like a giddy school girl so I will work on that.

But the car is running!!
Still need to bleed the breaks before going for a boot and the roads are quite messy here so I might wait. Part are on order anyway so Ill have to be patient.
*Oh, and I redid all that stuff I had issues with in my last post. We will see if it shifts nice when I have breaks and take it for a boot*

Issues with engine break in:
-Fuel delivery, took a lot to get the air out of the fuel lines, but once done has had no issues.

-I set the distributor to 10 degrees BTDC but it needs to be adjusted.

QUESTION: How do I adjust the distributor while its running? The set screw is below the vacuum advance so inaccessible to sockets and behind the belt so inaccessible by wrench…

-Cold start idle set too high
As stated earlier I have a brand new 500 cfm edelbrock carb with electric choke on a brand new rebuild V6 motor with a T5 tranny. My QUESTION is how do you adjust it so the cold start up rpm won't be as high (4000rpm) and more around the 2000 rpm mark? There is a step cam on the one side that I am assuming I adjust?

When warm the idle is nice at 740rpm and revs awesomely. The 2.5" MAC dual exhaust system with X pipe is very nice. Sounds like a V8.

-Fan kicks on at too high a temp. Can you get a cooler temp sensor? Can someone send me a link to a website purchase of one?

[1983 GL V6 MUSTANG]

Good morning,
I figured out the issue with the start up idle too high, there is a step cam on the side of the carb for the auto check settings and it was too high for a motor larger than mine. Backed it off and now start up idle is at 2200rpm, which is where I want it when it was cold. With the ambient temp around here getting to the positives (Celsius) I will probably have to adjust it again.

The fan still kicks in too high, but the car will be driven most in the country on highways this summer, so it will be something I will have to keep an eye on. In the future a bigger rad and electric fan will be needed. As well as a new temp switch.

Since I have a QA1 K member with stock control arms, my tires sit too far forward and rub when you turn. This will not do. So, I made a final purchase from Late model restoration including : Reverse offset arms to counteract the QA1, Coil overs since these control arms don't have lower spring perches, as well as a lower shifter boot chart I forgot to get in the original conversion.

Even with no steering radius, I did take the car out for a little spin. It is very interesting driving her as a manual when she was always automatic. The new sound also is different to listen to for shifting. Something Ill have to get used to.

Timing is still a little off. Anyone time a Essex V6??? Best way of loo singing and tightening the distributor while running????

And finally, as university comes to a close, I have always been lurking on the web for local ads for mustang parts. Well, a local posted yesterday that he was parting out an 84 mustang. In the ad it had a reverse hoodscoop! Well, I already got myself an 82 scoop, but didn't really want to cut holes in a rust free hood to put it on. So I called him up and went over to see it. Turns out he bought it for the 5 speed tranny for his 69 fast back and the rest he was uninterested in. For purists out there, the front and rear quarters where shot, rockers gone, hole in the trunk where you can see the axle from through the hatch glass, and interior stripped and scattered. He also took out the seized V8. All this meant the car was not a good parts car a s Id hoped, BUT the hood was in decent shape and after chapping with him about mustangs and the hobby, I got the hood with scoop for 20$! Nice! I believe the car to be an 83, not 84, as it is a factory functional hood, but I wasn't going to correct the guy.

So here it is freshly bolted to my car. It'll be taken off, sandblasted and painted before being permanent, but I wanted to see the look.

A little work to do, but can't argue for the price of the original thing.

Sorry for sideways pic, but anybody know the colour of the donor hood? My car was painted K7 "ford blue" at one point, but if that donor car blue is an original colour, it seems interesting.

Factory hole in hood. Previous owner took out the block plate to make it functional. My plans are to sandblast the areas of bad rust, use a strong acid/ rust converter on those areas, prime and paint the underside black, then the top sides K7 blue with the stripe satin black like GTs.

An interesting style of hood paint. Black just around the scoop stretched back to the cowl. Interesting.


C&C appreciated!!! Especially about the timing! Cheers!

[Travis T]

That hood would be right for an 83 GT like you say, or an 84 GT Turbo. Either way, it would have never came in blue from the factory as neither of those cars were available in blue so it is a definite repaint. Good score, I traded some parts for mine and added it to my 84 GT.

For the distributor clamp, you should be able to loosen it enough to turn it by hand, but not so loose as to let the engine move it. That's how I've always timed my cars.

[1983 GL V6 MUSTANG]

It does look too bright to be the light academy blue my car was originally. I am very happy the the hood. especially with the donor going to the scraper, putting the hood on another 83 just seems the proper thing to do.

Yes, I was afraid of that; being unable to tighten the distributor while running. Oh well. We will see how it goes late this weekend!

[Travis T]

Now you just need a nice 84 1/2 GT bumper cover for it! If I had the time and money to finish mine, I'd almost like to build another Fox Mustang with a V6. I have access to a built 2.8 V6, but I'd rather mess around with a 3.8.

[1983 GL V6 MUSTANG]

Now you just need a nice 84 1/2 GT bumper cover for it! If I had the time and money to finish mine, I'd almost like to build another Fox Mustang with a V6. I have access to a built 2.8 V6, but I'd rather mess around with a 3.8.

Well, i am actually trying to keep it as an 83 body, but just with all the accessories haha. Though the fog lights are cool.

So far I am appreciating keeping the 3.8L. The 5 speed really adds to the feel, with enough power on the slightly modified block and dual exhaust to to keep me entertained. It's an interesting block to modify to because no one does it, while there are indeed performance parts from the 90's 3.8L that work on the early 80's block. The downfall of a modded 2.8L is the lack of parts and ability to bolt up a T5. However, You CAN get a 4 barrel intake manifold for a 2.8L online, where a 3.8L needs modification.

With this modification possible, yet never done, I am fairly certain I own the only current 4 barrelled V6 5 speed fox documented. If I'm wrong about this, Id be quite happy to be shown proof!

[Travis T]

You may just do it. Actually, I am researching bolting a T5 to a 2.8. I think it can be done, if I can find a Mustang II or Pinto or 79 Mustang that came with a V6 and RAD transmission. The RAD can easily be replaced with a T5 on a four cylinder application.

[troyw1970]

do you want to get rid of your 82 scoop i am looking for one ?
thanks

[xctasy]

It does look too bright to be the light academy blue my car was originally. I am very happy the the hood. especially with the donor going to the scraper, putting the hood on another 83 just seems the proper thing to do.

Yes, I was afraid of that; being unable to tighten the distributor while running. Oh well. We will see how it goes late this weekend!

I've spent about 10 years operating complicated laboratory equipment, 15 years doing control systems.


The way we did 'snib downs' was to treat it like a torque to yield bolt, but torque it like a Proportional Limit fastener, a point well below yield. Its just a reusabale bolt which only needs to hold the distributor without it spinning.


You drill right through the head with three small ( M5 or 3/16) holes and use a 1/6 or 4.2mm drill bit to swing one of the six flats tight enough. Like a castlelated nut on a front hub, and a kind of ba$+@rdized hot rodders sprntspeed T.http://www.sprintspeed.co.uk/pages/w...3/IMG_6534.jpg

The normal torque is based on a non lubed bolt, assumes clean and dry parts. If you add Maganlube, drop the peak torque by 50%. 14 ft pounds or 168 inch poundsthe becomes 9 lb-ft or 84 inch pounds. Lube the bolt, and measure the angle from hand tight contact to 9 lb-ft or 84 inch pounds, and that is the amount to swing the bolt with the drill bit. You can do it by visual approximation against 360 degrees or one flat on a six flat bolt = 60 degrees.

See Robert.Spinner.Com

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WohM6pt58I

or more complicated, Petes Garage
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hz8vSFq3AHM

[Thegreatoscillator]

Well, i am actually trying to keep it as an 83 body, but just with all the accessories haha. Though the fog lights are cool.

So far I am appreciating keeping the 3.8L. The 5 speed really adds to the feel, with enough power on the slightly modified block and dual exhaust to to keep me entertained. It's an interesting block to modify to because no one does it, while there are indeed performance parts from the 90's 3.8L that work on the early 80's block. The downfall of a modded 2.8L is the lack of parts and ability to bolt up a T5. However, You CAN get a 4 barrel intake manifold for a 2.8L online, where a 3.8L needs modification.

With this modification possible, yet never done, I am fairly certain I own the only current 4 barrelled V6 5 speed fox documented. If I'm wrong about this, Id be quite happy to be shown proof!

any updates on this project?

Also, this is an
embarrassing question, but I've just begun restoring and modding my 83 glx convertible (for which I'm planning to run, among a host of other things, a Morana 4bbl intake, but I guess you'll still technically have the only FOX running 4bbl v6 5spd, because I have a notchback convertible. Lol), first by doing a tune up and flushing all the fluids, and I can't find a damn quality distributor cap to match my msd superconductor wires anywhere. Any suggestions?

Also, road demon jr 525 carb, or street demon 625 carb? Is the latter overkill? Demon Jr is in short supply, but found one on speedway motors. Anyone else have one they're looking to dump?

speaking of dumping, any technical reason I haven't seen anyone side dumping their exhaust? Would look pretty sick on these ponies.

[plstktnkr2]

My modded 1983 GLX was an automatic (AOD) otherwise the same as yours