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  1. #1
    FEP Senior Member Radarluv's Avatar
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    Default Replaced a coil Connector Tried to start the car heard a really loud Pop

    I am hoping someone can give me a starting place to look for the problem. First a little background. I had noticed that the 2 wires going to the coil didn't look very good. So I ordered a coil connector from Napa per Jeff Cooks help. In the meantime I changed the plugs put on a new Distributor Cap and rotor and Ford racing wires. Checked everything to make sure the firing order was correct. Started the car and it was running rough. Turned it off and rechecked everything tried to start it and it would turn over but not start like it wasn't getting spark. Left it figuring the coil connector was maybe the problem. Got the coil Connector today wired it up red to red green to green pretty simple soderied the wires in so I know the connections were good tried to start it and it didn't crank but I heard a very loud POP from under the hood. No smoke no fire nothing I can see that looks melted or anything. Looking for some help as to where to start trying to diagnose the problem. Could the Coil have taken a crap? I never have liked the setup on Fords Coil with this coil connector but I am lost as to what to check I am afraid to try and start it again at this point not wanting to do further damage or worse start a fire. Any Help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated
    85 GT Vert 5 Speed 42K original miles As of right now Stock to the bone well not so much bolt ons going on

  2. #2

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    Take a deep breath, its not something to over stress about, let go back from the begining

    first make sure its firing order like this picture, since you change the wire



    double check the coil connector wire, did you use the I call " butt connector ", and make sure the wire is sit in it. some time it get loose..

    check starter solenoid , by the left fender next to the battery. see any loose wire...

    when you change the coil connector, did you loose the battery negative cable ?

    and remember, this problem start when you change the coil connector. I do start from there. Try swap the old one back in, if it not too much work.
    Last edited by Sinister; 02-18-2014 at 07:01 PM.
    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member Radarluv's Avatar
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    Firing order was checked Has the correct order Yes always diconnect negative battery terminal. The new coil connector is just like the old one only goes on one way and snaps down over the terminals. IMHO a Mickey Mouse way to connect to the coil It is an uncessary piece. The starter Solenoid was replaced a few months back and everything is tight there I did a 3G Alt swap so all the cables and conections there are new. I am thinking about just getting a new coil and losing the coil connector and see if that fixes the problem and just prey I didn't fry something else. Thanks for the response
    85 GT Vert 5 Speed 42K original miles As of right now Stock to the bone well not so much bolt ons going on

  4. #4

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    I dont think you fry anything, you know it when you start blow the fuse...

    also you say you change the distributor cap ? I hope you dint accident mess up the timing..

    remember my old post about install intake, and I mess up my timing, I could'nt crank the car and heard a loud pop ( knock ) on passenger side area.
    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Radarluv's Avatar
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    Distributor cap is pretty straight forward I didn't mess with the tie down bolt or anything like that how did you mess up Your timing changing the cap?
    85 GT Vert 5 Speed 42K original miles As of right now Stock to the bone well not so much bolt ons going on

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Radarluv View Post
    Distributor cap is pretty straight forward I didn't mess with the tie down bolt or anything like that how did you mess up Your timing changing the cap?
    I take out the whole distributor when change the intake , that how I mess up the timing, it does give me the same pop sound like your, when I try to crank it.

    if you have none of these problem, before changing the coil wire, plug, wire, cap & rotor . But my feeling is that wire you connect to.

    have you try to swap the old mickey mouse back in, I know the wire feel loose, but you have no problem with it before. do that before you decide to change the coil.

    SORRY i just re read your question, I think you mean like this . your car running rough with the old mickey mouse , then you swap out the with the new mickey mouse connector, and now your start wont turn over right ?
    Last edited by Sinister; 02-18-2014 at 09:01 PM.
    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    Sounds like a timing issue to me, did you verify that the rotor was pointing at number one at top dead center for number one before removing the original wires? I ask because I had a Mustang once where the distributor was installed 180 degrees off and number one on the cap was not number one. They had moved the wires around until it ran right.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member Radarluv's Avatar
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    I will mess with this coil connector again just to make sure the wires are soldered correctly and make sure it snapped in correctly and hope I don't fry something starting it again. At Best I am a backyard mechanic. I was always a Paint and body guy not a real mechanic so troubleshooting is not my forte
    85 GT Vert 5 Speed 42K original miles As of right now Stock to the bone well not so much bolt ons going on

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Radarluv View Post
    I will mess with this coil connector again just to make sure the wires are soldered correctly and make sure it snapped in correctly and hope I don't fry something starting it again. At Best I am a backyard mechanic. I was always a Paint and body guy not a real mechanic so troubleshooting is not my forte
    yes, and dont stress out over it, it can be fix, I believe you have not fry anything, sound like you haven't done anything that can possibly fry anything. its not like you hook up positive and negative cable together and made a big smoke. mabe something just loose or not having a tight connect, just rest,clear your mind, we here to help you thru your problem, at end if you still have problem, I suggest find a trust mechanic and pay him to fix it, I know it sound costly, but stress over something that we not know much about, aint worth it.

    i hope something just simple, and keep us update, we here for you bro.
    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member Radarluv's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    Sounds like a timing issue to me, did you verify that the rotor was pointing at number one at top dead center for number one before removing the original wires? I ask because I had a Mustang once where the distributor was installed 180 degrees off and number one on the cap was not number one. They had moved the wires around until it ran right.
    The distributor cap has a notch in it that sits about at the 7 O'clock position so it doesn;t allow for a 180 degree Mis installation. The rotor went in pointing in the same position that the old one was at. I will pull the cap and check the rotor to make sure. I want to recheck everything before I fire it again Thanks
    85 GT Vert 5 Speed 42K original miles As of right now Stock to the bone well not so much bolt ons going on

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    My car had the distributor shaft 180 off, not just the cap so I thought I'd mention that. It worked that way but it just meant that when installed that way, number one being marked on the cap meant nothing. It would be worth putting the timer pointer on TDC and verifying the rotor is pointing at the post marked one.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member Radarluv's Avatar
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    Thanks I just don't think the dizzy is off. Nothing done to cause it. Car ran fine prior to this coil connector issue. I will check everything I know to check though. Thanks Guys
    85 GT Vert 5 Speed 42K original miles As of right now Stock to the bone well not so much bolt ons going on

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    It would be nothing you did to cause it, just like my car - I may have not done a good job explaining it. The previous owner pulled the distributor when the engine was rebuilt and just stuck it back in there without lining anything up. When they went to put the wires on, they turned the engine to TDC by the harmonic balancer and whatever post on the distributor cap lined up with the rotor became number one. It ran great, but when I changed the wires, I assumed that the number one on the cap was truly number one, when in fact it was 180 degrees off. Car suddenly wouldn't run and I hadn't messed with anything. I had to figure out where number one really was, then I just pulled the distributor and corrected their mistake. I could have just started number one with the post that the rotor was pointing at like they did, but I wanted it right. Not saying this is your case, but this was something that happened on my car that drove me crazy for a while until dad figured out what was going on.
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  14. #14
    FEP Senior Member Radarluv's Avatar
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    Update Thanks for all the suggestions It turned out to be my Soldering skills The connection to the new coil connector was not good I did not solder it good enough to make the proper connection Once I redid it the car fired right up with no misses and ran perfectly. I want to thank Both of You guys that gave me suggestions to fix this problem That's what I love about this site brothers helping Brothers. Thanks Again
    85 GT Vert 5 Speed 42K original miles As of right now Stock to the bone well not so much bolt ons going on

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member Travis T's Avatar
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    I didn't think my suggestion was right since you have a low mileage car, but glad to hear you got it fixed easily. Figured it was worth a mention since it drove me crazy!
    1984 Mustang GT owned since 1991 (first car). Mercury Mountaineer GT-40P engine, some suspension mods, currently undergoing a five lug SN95 brake upgrade and more suspension mods. Some minor body and interior mods have been done as well.

    2004 GT convertible, 2001 Taurus LX, 1994 F150, 1950 F-1 Ford Pickup

  16. #16

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    woot woot !! Let all go hooter. RadarLuv pay
    Always Stay Humble. -Sinister-

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